July 22, 1880. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
77 
October, and November ; for there are two or more broods of 
them in the course of the year. The grubs, though less frequently, 
are found doing similar damage to the leaves of Parsnips. When 
full grown the grubs descend into the earth and remain in the 
chrysalis state until the spring following, when they give birth to 
the fly. This, the Celery Fly, may usually be found upon the 
leaves of the Laurel, hovering over flowers and resting upon 
palings in the sunshine, from the middle of May to the end of 
July. It is one of the most beautiful of the English two-winged 
flies. The general colour of the body, which is five-jointed, varies 
from rusty brown to shining black; head buff, with black hairs ; 
Fig. 18. 
legs yellow ; thorax (throat) sprinkled with long black hairs ; 
wings black, with various pale spots ; eyes green. The whole 
length of the insect is not more than one-sixth of an inch, and its 
wings when outspread barely half an inch across. The cross lines 
in our woodcut show these proportions as well as the insect 
magnified. The motions of this fly are very peculiar ; seated upon 
a leaf in the sunshine, the wings are partially extended, yet parti¬ 
ally elevated, and it has a sidling kind of motion. 
We shall be very glad to hear from our practical correspondents 
the best modes of preventing the attacks of this destructive insect, 
while there is yet time to preserve the Celery crops from serious 
injury. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Pines .—The fruits of plants started early in the year will, as regards 
the early varieties, now be ripened off, and later varieties which were 
started at the same time will be sufficiently advanced to allow of the 
plants being removed to a vinery or other house with a somewhat dry 
atmosphere. This will afford additional space to the successional 
plants ; and in preparing beds at this season judgment and experience 
are required, as too much heat at the roots of the plants is very in¬ 
jurious. Fermenting beds which were renewed by liberal additions 
of fresh material in spring will only require turning over to a depth of 
about 18 inches, whilst those not renewed at that time should have a 
foot of fresh tan incorporated with the old. Suckers from the plants 
alluded to above may be potted so soon as the house for receiving 
them is in readiness—viz., a close moist pit, having a fermenting bed 
with a temperature of 90°. The fibrous loam employed in potting 
should be rammed firmly in the pots and round the base of the suckers, 
watering once and plunge without delay, covering the soil in the pots 
with the plunging material so as to prevent it becoming very dry at 
the surface. With this precaution water will not be needed again until 
new roots are formed, but a light syringing occasionally will be bene¬ 
ficial. Effectual shading will be necessary when the sun is powerful, 
ventilating a little at 80° to 85°. The suckers started in June should 
be transferred to larger pots before the roots become very much matted 
together; 9 or 10 inches will suit Queens, and 11 inches others of 
stronger growth. Water the plants immediately after potting, and 
plunge them in a bed having a temperature of 90° to 95°. A batch 
of suckers should be reserved on the stools for starting at the begin¬ 
ning of September. 
Cucumbers .—The rainy weather has not been favourable to Cucum¬ 
bers, and the absence of sun ha3 resulted in a plentiful crop of yellow 
fruits and abundance of mildew in the foliage, with canker both at 
the collar and in the old growths, particularly where fire heat has 
been discontinued. In such weather gentle fire heat by night is 
advisable; dusting freely with flowers of sulphur for the mildew, 
whilst for canker the efficacy of quicklime has often been pointed out. 
After a period of dull weather Cucumber plants are liable to flag and 
have the leaves scorched, which should be prevented by judicious 
shading. Pot off the autumn fruiters, pinching out the growing 
point at the second rough leaf, completing the preparation of ferment¬ 
ing material and soil, removing the old plants preparatory to a fresh 
start; it being essential that the house be thoroughly cleaned. The 
only means of securing a free and fruitful growth is to pay close 
attention to ventilating, watering, shading, stopping, and well thin¬ 
ning out the growths periodically. In fine weather water copiously, 
and syringe freely between 3 and 4 P.M. If plants be now placed out 
in frames they will afford fruit in late summer and to a late period, 
due attention being given to line the beds when the weathei is cold. 
Melons. —Much that has been advised for Cucumbers applies to 
Melons. In wet sunless weather fire heat is necessary for plants 
setting as well as those ripening their fruits, as without dryness 
neither a good set nor a good flavour is to be had. The syringing 
should be discontinued for plants in any stage of growth in wet sun¬ 
less weather, and more than ordinary vigilance should be exercised 
in looking for canker and cracked fruits. The last batch in pits and 
frames should be growing freely, one leader being trained to the back 
and the other to the front. The soil cannot be too firm to check the 
tendency to luxuriant growth, which in young plants at this season is 
very marked. The seeds for the last batch of plants should be 
sown without delay, which will afford fruits as late as they can be 
had of fair flavour. The plants for fruiting in October should be 
placed out without delay in a light house, and where plenty of heat 
can be afforded when necessary. Plants setting their fruits in pits or 
frames will require to have moisture sparingly applied, not, however, 
permitting flagging. In fine weather syringe freely, and afford a 
plentiful supply of water to plants with crops not actually in the 
setting or ripening stage, keeping the growths well thinned except 
when the fruits are setting, when the growths as the blossoms are 
impregnated should be stopped one joint beyond. Earth-up the 
roots of plants which have just set their fruits. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
The weather has been such that plants delighting in moisture have 
had enough to carry them on for a long time, and where mulching 
has been practised little if any further watering will be necessary. 
Flowers, of course, in wet weather are few except Yiolas, which 
appear all the brighter, but Calceolaria flowers become filled with 
water and drop off. Examine the beds frequently, removing dead or 
decayed leaves and flowers ; and to have Verbenas fine they should be 
frequently picked over, and kept well thinned by pinching back a 
portion of the shoots. Carpet-bedding plants should be regularly 
pinched and pegged twice a week, as such free-growing plants as 
Mesembryanthemum cordifolium variegatum, Stellaria graminea 
aurea, and others soon encroach on plants of less vigorous growth, 
and the effect depends in a great measure upon the lines forming the 
different designs being kept clear and distinct. 
Continue sowing and pricking-out hardy perennials, such as Car¬ 
nations, Picotees, Brompton Stocks, Wallflowers, &c., as soon as large 
enough to handle. Pansy seed should also be saved and sown, and 
cuttings inserted, also Violas for spring flowering. If the flowers of 
Marigolds and Asters are required extra fine the buds should be freely 
thinned, reserving the most promising only. Dahlias and Hollyhocks, 
and plants having a large leaf surface for the wind to act on, should 
be securely staked as they advance. Poses have had a hard time, 
and are now being attacked with mildew as they were in the spring 
with aphides. Syringe the bushes with a dilution of pentasulphide 
of calcium, employing a wineglassful to a gallon of water, or dust 
with flowers of sulphur. Continue budding, and insert cuttings 
under handlights in gentle heat. Tropieolums and Clematises should 
be trained. The latter are now in great beauty, but unfortunately 
are not so continuous-flowering as could be wished, and although 
fine for bedding they are not in at the right time or only flower for a 
