JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 22, 1880, 
short time, and in late summer when most required they are over. 
The best places for them are archways, old stumps, and rockeries. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Stove. —Climbers trained to the roof wires should he frequently ex¬ 
amined, thinning and regulating the growths, or they will become 
so entangled as to render the work difficult, besides doing injury to 
growths it is desirable to retain. Some roof climbers are a harbour 
for insects, as they are not so forcibly syringed as to dislodge such 
pests as mealy bug and red spider. The roof climbers should of all 
others be kept free from insects by the prompt application of remedial 
measures. Stephanotis, Ixoras, Dipladenias, and similar plants done 
flowering should be similarly treated for mealy bug and scale, &c., as 
the Gardenias, giving a second or third dressing at intervals of a few 
days or before the young growths are started, though at the strength 
named it does not injure the young foliage. Young plants of the 
above named should be moved into larger pots if necessary, and 
growth encouraged as for Gardenias. 
Eucharis amazonica. —Plants that flowered early and have made 
and completed a growth, should be rested, withholding water and 
keeping them rather cooler for about a month or six weeks, affording 
sufficient water to keep the leaves from injury, and after this, being 
returned to heat, they will quickly produce flowers. Plants that 
flowered but recently should have every encouragement to induce 
growth by the supply of plenty of moisture both at the roots and 
in the atmosphere. 
Winter-flowering Plants. —Aphelandra aurantiaca, A. Koezli, A. cris- 
tata, and A. nitens, Centropogon Lucyanus, Eranthemum pulchellum, 
Gesneras of the exoniensis and zebrina type, Thyrsacanthus rutilans, 
Scutellaria Mocciniana, and S. pulchella ; Sericographis Ghiesbreghti- 
ana, Plumbago coccinea superba, Poinsettias and Begonias, should be 
encouraged to make all the growth possible by keeping them near the 
glass in a growing temperature, and syringing them every evening. 
Euphorbia jacquinifeflora is of straggling growth, and may be improved 
by stopping the shoots, but it should not be done after the beginning 
of August. 
Anthurium Schertzerianum. —Plants of this Aroid will now have 
passed their principal flowering ; and although the plants that flowered 
early have a disposition to continue throwing flowers, the next 
month or six weeks is a good time to pot large plants. Employ 
fibrous peat in lumps as large as an egg, rejecting the small by sifting 
which should form half the compost, the other half being composed 
of equal parts sphagnum, charcoal, and potsherds broken moderately 
small, with a little sand. Good drainage is necessary, as when grow¬ 
ing very plentiful supplies of water are required. Achimenes flower¬ 
ing in baskets will require liberal supplies of liquid manure to keep 
them in good condition. Gloxinias need similar attention. 
NOTES ON VILLA AND SUBURBAN GARDENING. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Grapes. —The thinning of all late unforced Grapes must be 
completed before the berries become crowded. Fully two-thirds 
of the berries in most instances should be removed, especially if those 
retained are expected to keep well. Close-growing free-setting varie¬ 
ties especially require careful thinning. Syringing overhead is usually 
discontinued after the flowering time, but the walls and floors are 
frequently damped to insure a moist growing atmosphere, which also 
helps to ward off the attacks of red spider. This insect is very apt 
to appear after the syringing is discontinued, especially on heavily 
cropped Vines should the latter receive an insufficiency of moisture 
at the roots. The insects are very minute, but they are easily dis¬ 
covered by the yellow tinge which the foliage assumes on the under 
side. Where they are thus found active measures must at once be 
taken against them, or they will materially affect the finishing of the 
crop. Syringe the foliage forcibly early in the mornings, and again 
when the house is closed for the evening. Clear water, filtered if 
possible, must be employed, and the bloom on the berries will then 
be unaffected. Syringing must be discontinued when the berries are 
commencing colouring, at which time ventilation may be provided 
during the night. Water inside borders frequently ; once a week is 
not too often, especially where the borders are limited. Vary the 
waterings with either liquid manure or with some artificial manure. 
Employ the latter very carefully, as they are really injurious if used 
to excess. 
Tomatoes. —Those being grown either in pots or boxes will now 
require abundance of water at the roots, as if allowed to become very 
dry the newly set fruit are liable to become misshapen, and it will 
also induce premature ripening in the case of larger fruit. Supply 
liquid manure frequently. When the first bunches of bloom are set 
give the plants a good top-dressing, consisting of equal parts of rough 
turfy loam and well-decomposed manure, into which they will readily 
emit fresh roots. See that the original soil is sufficiently moist 
previous to top-dressing, and afterwards examine it frequently. All 
side shoots should be removed, or they will rapidly smother the 
bloom. Take the tops off those plants of large-fruited varieties 
which have perfected three bunches of bloom, but the small-fruited 
varieties, such as Vick’s Criterion and Nesbit’s Victoria, may be 
allowed to grow on. Thin out the bunches if large fruit are in 
request. 
Cucumbers. —Many are now growing these in their houses, and, as 
with the Tomatoes and Grapes, find them both ornamental and 
useful. Keep the roots active and near the surface by giving a top¬ 
dressing of turf and manure occasionally. Water frequently with 
farmyard liquid manure ; failing this, sprinkle a little artificial manure 
over the surface of the bed and water it in. Thin out the growth if 
at all crowded, pinch back the young shoots to second joints, and 
avoid heavy cropping, red spider to be kept down by syringing over¬ 
head morning and evening and frequent damping of the floors and 
walls ; and thrip—which also is very quick-spreading and injurious— 
is most effectively dislodged by an occasional fumigation with 
tobacco. 
GREENHOUSES AND FRAMES. 
Coleuses. —The small varieties are best grown rather flatly, but the 
larger-foliaged varieties make excellent pyramids. Give the former 
5 or 0-inch pots, and the latter 8 or 9-inch pots, and water frequently 
with liquid manure when the plants are well established. Any soil 
may be used providing the pots are well drained. Keep the plants 
well pinched back till a good head is formed, taking up the central 
shoot in the case of pyramids, and for a time pinch back all the side 
shoots. Syringing overhead injures the colour of the foliage. 
Gloxinias and Begonias. —Seedling plants in small pots should be 
shifted into 4-inch pots. Employ a compost consisting of equal parts 
loam and leaf soil with some sand for the Begonias, and two parts 
loam to one of leaf soil and sand for the Gloxinias. The latter 
should not be potted deeply, and though they like plenty of moisture 
in the atmosphere none should be placed on the foliage. Do not 
pinch back the Tuberous Begonias. Those Begonias intended for 
flowering during the winter should be pinched back to render them 
stocky, and gradually shifted on ; such species as B. nitida and 
B. fuchsioides into 10-inch pots, and such as B. Digswelliana and 
B. Saundersoniana into 5 or 6-inch pots. Loam and peat, or loam, 
leaf soil, and sand, will suit them well. If B. Weltoniensis is wanted 
in flower in the autumn pinch back the plants and shift them on. 
Chrysanthemums. —The tops of old plants strike readily in a little 
heat, and will, providing they are not pinched back, flower freely. 
Place about five cuttings of any one variety in 3-inch or 4-inch pots, 
and one in the centre. Keep the plants rather close and shade till 
rooted, when they should be gradually hardened, and eventually 
shifted into 6-inch pots and placed outside. Employ rich loamy soil, 
to which may well be added some crushed oyster shells and a sprink¬ 
ling of soot, both for these and the older plants, which should now 
receive their final shift. Beturn these to an open sunny spot; water 
regularly. Place stakes to standards, and rub out all their side 
shoots. 
Miscellaneous Plants. —Specimens of the large-flowering Pelargo¬ 
niums that have bloomed should be placed in a sunny open spot and 
ripened off by gradually withholding water. Young flowerless growth 
struck at this time can easily be grown into specimens for next 
season. They will strike in light soil containing plenty of road grit 
on a greenhouse shelf. Sturdy cuttings of free-flowering Zonal 
Pelargoniums struck in the same way, and afterwards kept in 4-inch 
