July 29, 1880. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
101 
safe in the morniDg, and hence that time should always be chosen. 
When the plants get too large for pegs small sticks of the neces¬ 
sary strength are used, placing them wherever it is necessary 
to draw the branches to, and to avoid using many stakes a band 
of bast, mat, or wire is passed round below the rim of the top 
and made fast; a piece of line matting or string is then tied to 
the various branches, and each is drawn into the position it is 
destined to occupy. When the branches are depressed below the 
level of the rim of the pot an arrangement of this kind is indis¬ 
pensable, and independently of that it is a very neat way of 
accomplishing our aim. Without a properly formed stool it is 
impossible to get a perfect plant, and therefore no pains must be 
spared to arrange the branches properly before they get too much 
crowded with foliage. Sometimes branches are liable to split in 
the fork—that is, where they start from the parent stem, and then 
before attempting to train them the branches must be tied together 
by means of strong pieces of soft matting. Thus arranged, with 
perseverance and patience, the plants may be made to assume any 
form you please ; but they must be gently handled, and hence 
never attempt to train a plant except when you have leisure to do 
so carefully and without hurry. 
In fig. 24 we have the plant advanced another year, and it is 
Fig. 24. 
now of a size sufficiently large for all ordinary purposes. Such a 
stool, with proper management and if of a free-growing Fancy 
kind, would form a plant from 4 to G feet in diameter, and should 
produce more than a thousand trusses of flowers—a sight worth 
seeing, and an ample recompence for the trouble that has been 
taken in its formation. The stools represented in our engravings 
are not ideal sketches, but actual portraits of plants. 
After the plants are cut down the growths may be made into 
cuttings, and at this period of the year there is no better plan of 
striking the Show varieties than by inserting the cuttings in 
sandy soil in the open air and in the full sun. These make stocky 
vigorous plants, and if the wood is well ripened very few cuttings 
fail to emit roots. The Fancies strike better in pots under glass. 
After being cut down the plants are left in the pots to break, 
and are then shaken out. This shaking-out is a complete work. 
Every particle of soil is washed from the roots, and these are 
trimmed and repotted in smaller pots, throwing in a dash of silver 
sand as the work proceeds. These cleansed roots forthwith emit 
vigorous spongioles, and the older plants are made new again. 
The Fancies are treated in the same manner, but they are less 
robust and long-lasting, and in order to gain vigour they are often 
grafted on the Show varieties. Grafting is done at the present 
time, the stock being in advance of the scions, and the grafted 
plants are stood on a north or shaded border until the union is 
completed. By that simple means vigour is imparted to tender 
and delicate varieties. 
WOKK, F0I l THE WEEll. < 
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KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Potatoes .—The appearance of this crop is being marred as regards 
the early and second early varieties by the disease, the tubers in 
many instances likewise being affected to an alarming extent, and 
unless the weather become fine and dry late crops can hardly fail to 
suffer from its ravages. As to the best course to pursue there is none 
so effective as lifting, but if this be done before the tubers are mode¬ 
rately well ripened the quality is very inferior at first, but improves 
greatly when the produce is carefully stored. When the skin has 
become firm the tubers may safely be lifted, separating the bad from 
the good, and those which are sound will generally remain so and 
improve in quality. The diseased should be removed from the ground, 
whilst the haulm must be cleared away and burned. 
Prepare ground for the main crop of autumn-sown Onions and 
winter Spinach, both of which should be sown between the Gth and 
10th of next month. Give the Spinach plenty of space between the 
rows, 18 inches is not too much, and afford an open yet sheltered 
situation. Sow Lettuce seed at once for affording a late supply, and 
lift the plants before severe weather for continuing the supply in 
frames after the outdoor supply is cut off. A sowing should also be 
m ade about the Gth to the 8th of next month of Brown Sugar- 
loaf Cos and Stanstead Park Lettuces for planting in frames to give 
a first early supply in spring. A sowing of Chervil made now will 
stand the winter without running to seed. Where w'inter Carrots are 
grown outside the present is a good time to sow the seed, the Horn 
or Intermediate varieties being most suitable; sow in drills about 
10 inches apart. Sow Cabbage seed from the Gth to the 8th of next 
month for the main crop, and see that the earlier-sown plants do not 
lack attention in pricking-off as they become ready, as the sturdier 
they are kept the more surely will the plants pass the winter. Winter 
Radishes—Black Spanish, China Rose, and Californian Mammoth 
—should now be sown, and occasional sowings at intervals of the 
summer varieties. Another good breadth of Turnips should be sown 
in an exposed situation. Complete the planting of Broccolis for late 
use as early as possible, also autumn Broccolis and winter greens, or 
whatever may be most required. Continue to sow and plant-out the 
earliest Endive, and earth-up the earliest crop of Celery, previously 
supplying water liberally if necessary, and complete as soon as prac¬ 
ticable the planting-out of late crops. Shallots, Garlic, and the earlier 
varieties of autumn-sown Onions should be taken up when growth 
has ceased, spreading the bulbs over the ground for a few days, so as 
to have them well dried before storing. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines .—Unless the foliage is very good there is some difficulty in 
keeping black Grapes in good condition at this season, as the sun 
injures the colour of the berries, therefore a little whitewash or other- 
light shade placed on the roof lights may be advantageous in some 
cases. Examine the bunches for decayed berries, and keep the house 
dry, and as cool as possible. Vines in the earliest house will require 
a dry warm atmosphere to thoroughly ripen the wood, as upon this 
depends the production of compact well-formed bunches next season. 
All laterals and late growths must be kept in check, and complete 
rest brought about by gradually allowing|the borders to become dry, 
but not to the extent of cracking. The late rains will have a tendency 
to keep early Vines growing that are planted in outside borders, to 
prevent which protect them from further moisture, to induce early 
maturity. Ventilate houses freely in which Vines of the variety 
Lady Downe’s are planted until the Grapes commence ripening, afford¬ 
ing sufficient fire heat at night to maintain a temperature of 70°. 
