102 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 29, 1880. 
Inside borders of late houses must be well attended to in watering, 
occasionally supplying weak guano water. No injury will result to 
the Grapes from watering the borders though the fruit be advanced 
in colour, providing it be done in the early part of the day, so as to 
allow the surplus moisture to be evaporated before closing time. The 
laterals should be kept pinched, not allowing them to become crowded 
and then have to remove them in quantity, giving a check often re¬ 
sulting in shanking. Young newly planted Vines should be kept in 
full growth for some time to come, maintaining a humid atmosphere 
and a night temperature of 65° to 70°, closing early in the afternoon, 
and allowing an advance to 90° or 95°. 
Peaches and Nectarines. —The trees in the late succession houses 
must have every attention in syringing to keep the foliage free from 
red spider, and the inside borders must have copious waterings when¬ 
ever necessary, assisting weakly trees and those heavily cropped with 
liquid manure. Keep the shoots tied-in as they advance in growth, and 
the laterals well pinched back, especially those from strong growth. 
Cease syringing when the fruit commences ripening, but maintain a 
fair amount of moisture by damping available surfaces frequently in 
bright weather, admitting air freely. To assist in the colouring of 
the fruit they should be exposed as much as possible to the influence 
of the sun and air by removing some of the foliage where too thickly 
placed, and where the fruit is on the under side of the trellis the 
shoots may be untied and regulated, so as to bring the fruit to the 
light. Trees from which the fruit has been gathered should have 
the bearing wood of the current year cut out, and the wood for next 
year’s bearing where too crowded well thinned out, so as to permit sun 
and air to have free access to the foliage, employing the syringe 
freely to destroy red spider, and keep the borders moist, not allowing 
them to become dry. 
ORCHARD HOUSE. 
Some of the trees growing in pots may be placed in the open air, 
especially Pears and Plums, and in some instances Peaches and 
Nectarines, arranging them on a hard bottom and in a sheltered yet 
sunny situation, and plunge the pots in ashes. If it be desired to 
accelerate the ripening of the fruit it may be effected by closing the 
ventilators as early as 5 P.3I. and opening them about 7 a.m. Syring¬ 
ing the trees should be continued every evening at the time of closing 
the ventilators until the fruit is ripening. Let Peach and other trees 
which are swelling their fruit, whether in pots or planted out, be 
liberally treated with surface dressings, supplying also weak liquid 
manure. Stop or pinch back very luxuriant shoots, and as soon as 
the fruit is gathered from any tree cut out all weakly growths and 
recommence syringing. Peach, Nectarine, and Plum trees in pots 
should be returned to the house for ripening their fruit unless the 
weather should prove unusually bright and warm ; but Pears must 
be allowed to mature out of doors unless the weather be very wet 
or cold, as to return them to the house for ripening would deteriorate 
the flavour of the fruit. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Azaleas. —The plants when placed outside must be stood upon a 
hard bottom impervious to worms, and the pots should be protected 
from the sun, otherwise the roots will be liable to injury from the 
heating of the sides of the pots. Slight shade will be necessary until 
the plants become inured to the sun’s rays. A temporary awning may 
be employed, or, what is better, a slight framework sufficient to carry 
a roller and canvas covering that can be run down when the sim is 
powerful, or at night or other time when heavy rain threatens. 
Where no such contrivance can be had the plants should be laid on 
their sides during heavy rains, and be careful not to allow the plants 
to suffer by insufficient supplies of water. 
Uardwooded Greenhouse Plants. —Placing these outdoors is injurious 
to f o ne, whilst others are benefited. The chief of the latter are Acacias 
Adenandras, Cytisuses, Correas, Dillwynias, Epacrises, Eriostemons, 
Chorozemas, Tetrathecas, Pultenseas, Polygalas, Pleromas, and 
Heaths ; and although Boronias, Hedaromas, Leschenaultias, and 
Pimeleas will flower freely without exposure, placing them outdoors 
preserves them from mildew through the autumn and winter. Aphe- 
lexises, though free-flowering when not exposed and are not subject 
to mildew, yet retain the flowers better for a short exposure. Statices, 
Dracophyllums, Acrophyllums, Gompholobiums, Koellias, Witsenias, 
and Hoveas should not be placed in the open air. 
Pelargoniums. —Early-flowered plants will be ready for cutting 
down, large or full-sized plants being cut back to within two or three 
eyes of last year’s wood, young plants being allowed a couple of eyes 
more to each shoot, having the soil moderately dry, or the roots will 
suffer. The plants should be placed in a frame with the lights well 
tilted, syringing lightly every afternoon to induce fresh growth, 
affording no more water than is necessary to keep the soil moderately 
moist. Zonal Pelargoniums, especially the double varieties for cutting, 
are fine for conservatory decoration, and flower continuously with the 
assistance of liquid manure given weak and clear about twice a week 
before the soil becomes too much exhausted. 
Fuchsias. —Young plants are much to be preferred to old. Shoots 
of free growth should be chosen during the next month and struck in 
gentle heat. When rooted pot-off the plants in 3 or 4-inch pots, 
employing good loam with a sixth each of old thoroughly decayed 
dung and leaf soil with a sprinkling of sand. Place the plants near 
the glass in a temperature of about 50° at night. In about two 
months shift them into 6-inch pots, and keep the plants growing well up 
to the light during the autumn and early winter. Any old plants that 
have flowered and become shabby may be rejuvenated by cutting 
back the growths slightly and thoroughly cleansing them of aphides, 
thrips, or red spider by syringing with an insecticide and removing an 
inch or two of the surface soil, adding new and rich compost, placing 
the plants in a house or pit where they can be kept close and moist 
by syringing morning and evening ; they will start freely, showing 
numbers of flowers without making much wood, coming into flower in 
about six weeks, and if assisted with liquid manure will flower until 
a late period in autumn. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Paul & Son, The Old Nurseries, Cheshunt, N.— List of Strawberries. 
Ewing & Company, Norwich.— List of Clematises and Roses. 
W. Dobbie, G2, Preston Street, Faversham.— List of Pelargoniums 
and Fuchsias. 
*** All correspondence should be directed either to “ The Editors ” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Mr. Johnson or 
Dr. Hogg often remain unopened unavoidably. We request that 
no one will write privately to any of our correspondents, as doing 
so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and 
should never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Orchids (Z. L.). —They are grown well at Burford Lodge, Dorking, the seat 
of Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart., M.P., and in the leading London nurseries. 
Moths (L. T. T.). —We have not received the moths to which you refer in 
your letter of the 25th inst. 
Address (T. McKenzie it Son). —We do not know the address of the gentle¬ 
man you name, nor have we seen the pamphlet to which you refer. 
Index (A. C. II. 0 .).—The index to which you refer was published with the 
last number of the volume, and was, or ought to have been, sent with every copy 
of the issue of June 24th, and can still be had from the publisher. 
Souvenir de Malmaison Carnation (C. D .).—We have had plants 
flowering from June onwards till October, but it is impossible for us to state 
from your description of the growth whether your plant will flower this season 
or not. If it does not it will probably produce fine flowers early next year. 
Mealy Bug on “Vines (J.B.). —If you read attentively what is published 
in the present and the last issues of the Journal you will be able to select the 
remedy that applies more particularly to your case. It is most difficult to 
eradicate this insect after it has been allowed to increase and infest the foliage 
and bunches. 
Exhibiting Cut Flowers (North Devon). —If you have quoted the words 
of the schedule accurately the class is about the most unsatisfactory one that 
has come under our notice. No one can answer your question but the Committee 
who prepared the schedule. Apply to the Secretary. 
Seedling Viola (/. S.). —The colour is rich but not unusual, and the 
flowers possess good form and substance. If the plant is of compact growth, 
and a free, early, and continuous bloomer, the variety is worthy of preservation; 
but we do not think it likely to be of substantial commercial value. 
Fungus on Roses (H. E. IF.).—Your Rose tree is attacked by the orange 
fungus. For the remedy see reply to “ M. J. L.,” on page 79 of our last weeks’ 
