August 12, 1880. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
147 
To describe the great variety of Coniferae, ornamental shrubs, 
See., is entirely beyond your space. Suffice it to say that every 
variety of Coniferse is well represented. Of the Abies there are 
over thirty forms ; Araucarias, Arthrotaxises, Biotas in fourteen 
varieties ; Cephalotaxuses, and the graceful Cryptomerias, with 
Piceas ; whilst of Pinuses there are upwards of forty forms. The 
new weeping Wellingtonia pendula nova is a fine novelty, and for 
a specimen lawn plant it could not be easily excelled. Deciduous 
or flowering shrubs, and ornamental trees are numerous and well 
represented. There are nearly thirty varieties of Hollies, some of 
them fine shrubs and well suited for planting for immediate effect, 
the firm devoting a special attention to them. 
The quarters devoted to fruit trees exceed 10 acres, the soil being 
well adapted for producing healthy trees of a sturdy nature for 
planting. Apples are numerous, but preference is given to those 
which are free and hardy. Of Pears there is a great collection, 
some double-grafted on their appropriate stocks, and every form 
of tree is adopted. The Rose forms an important feature, large 
numbers being grown for home and export purposes. 
Many acres of ground are adapted to growing farm seeds, both 
roots and cereals. Any notice of this establishment would be far 
from Complete without mention of the fine seed warehouses, store¬ 
rooms, and offices, which are extensive and substantial. The 
building in the city is the native red stone, and is of the Eliza¬ 
bethan style of architecture. It has a commanding and imposing 
appearance ; indeed the firm may be fairly said to have inaugu¬ 
rated a new era in the street architecture of this border city. 
Adjoining this is a warehouse for agricultural seeds with con¬ 
necting floors, each 90 feet long by about 30 feet wide ; while in 
an adjoining street there are also three flats each 60 feet long by 
30 wide, these containing the various mechanical appliances for 
cleansing and preparing the various seeds. In summing up our 
remarks we may safely say that every department bears the im¬ 
press of care and skill, and the whole seems guided by a masterly 
hand.—B. C. 
DRAINAGE OF LAND.—No. 2. 
In resuming my remarks on this subject I will first draw atten¬ 
tion to a garden constructed a hundred years. In this I find a 
good main drain running through the centre of the garden with a 
proper fall. It is built of brick, is about a foot in width, and 
varying from 3 to 5 feet in depth in the garden, and of course 
diminishing gradually to the outlet. After leaving the garden 
it is possible that a drain like this has to pass through various 
plantations of trees before finding an open course. If such a 
drain does not receive yearly attention the tree roots will find 
their way into it, and in a short time become so matted as to ob¬ 
struct the watercourse. This being the case in the main drain, 
smaller drains will soon become stopped, and if these are not 
cleared out the soil will become sour, the vegetables will not grow 
satisfactorily, and the fruit trees become unhealthy. To those 
possessing such a garden and wishing to make it profitable I offer 
the following advice. As early in the autumn or winter months 
as time can be afforded begin by thoroughly clearing out the main 
drain. In doing this and by paying a little attention the outlets 
of the smaller drains may be noticed, and save considerable 
trouble in tracing them after. The main course being made free, 
attention must then be turned to the cross drains, lifting what¬ 
ever has been employed for the watercourse, cleaning them 
thoroughly, relaying, and then covering them with 5 or 6 inches 
of rough material, such as clinkers, broken bricks, or any hard 
substance that may be at command. In former remarks I main¬ 
tained thorough drainage would be the means of bringing many 
crops into use much earlier in the season than in an ill-drained 
soil; I would now add that it is advisable to lay in a few extra 
drains if the soil is at all heavy. 
All soils do not require the same amount of drainage, but 
whether the soil be of a clayey or a sandy nature it requires 
drainage to a greater or less degree. In the hot and dry seasons 
of 1868 and 1870 great difficulty was experienced in many parts 
of the country in obtaining water sufficient to keep many plants 
alive, and in Staffordshire, where I was situated at that time, a 
horse and man were employed in drawing water in barrels a dis¬ 
tance of a mile and a half. Although a hard winter succeeded 
the latter date we obtained a good supply of vegetables the 
following winter and spring, and the next summer fruits of most 
kinds were fairly abundant. 
In well-drained ground, if we have a dry period, plants and 
trees appear distressed, but rain soon creates a change ; whereas 
if the drains are out of order and there is continual rain for weeks 
the surface soil cannot be worked and the soil becomes sodden, 
the roots are not in a fitting condition either to obtain nutriment 
to perfect fruit or to mature fruit buds for another year. In 
another issue of the Journal I intend to say something about the 
general cultivation of the soil.— Robert D. Long-. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Winter and Spring Vegetables. — Bill whatever ground is now 
vacant with that valuable little hardy Cabbage Rosette Colewort, 
12 to 15 inches distance apart being quite sufficient, and such vege¬ 
tables as Borecoles, which not only afford tops for cutting, but a 
quantity of side shoots until a late period in spring. Savoys may 
also still be planted. Complete the planting of Broccoli for spring 
use, also Cauliflowers for late use, with as little delay as possible, and 
Cabbages for autumn use ; sow Tripoli Onions and Winter Spinach. A 
supply of Onions when the stock of spring-sown Onions is exhausted 
is very important, and to secure this good breadths should be sown 
of such varieties as Queen and Early White Naples, which come in 
early and are much in request. Sow the seed in drills about 9 inches 
apart and an inch deep, choosing a sheltered border. The larger 
varieties of Tripoli, Rocca, and White Lisbon should be given more 
room, 12 to 15 inches, the seed being sown rather liberally to meet any 
casualties from the attacks of grubs, <tc. If the ground is light it should 
be rendered firm before and after sowing, and when the plants appear 
dress the soil with soot or wood ashes to prevent the attack of grubs, 
and thin the plants when large enough to about 3 inches apart. 
Winter Spinach should have ample room for the development of 
the growths—15 to 18 inches is not too much space between the 
rows, plying the hoe freely between the rows after the plants appear, 
and do not allow them to remain too long without thinning. 
Lettuce and Endive .—Sow seed of Black-seeded Brown Cos, Bath 
Cos Sugarloaf, All the Year Round, and Stanstead Park Cabbage 
Lettuces, also Batavian and Curled Endive for the winter supply, the 
plants being lifted in autumn and planted in frames. The plants 
should be thinned to about 9 inches apart, and the ground frequently 
stirred about them to encourage growth. Tie-up the Cos varieties 
of Lettuces as they become fit for use to secure well-blanched hearts, 
watering advancing crops liberally in dry weather to prevent running 
to seed and to insure crispness. 
Turnips for spring use should be sown in an open situation, Chirk 
Castle Black Stone and Golden Ball or Orange Jelly are suitable for 
this sowing. Periodical sowings of Radishes should be continued at 
fortnightly intervals, and the sowing of winter varieties—viz., Black 
Spanish, China Rose, and Californian Mammoth, must not be further 
delayed. Take advantage of suitable weather for earthing-up early 
planted Celery, and supply later crops liberally with water or liquid 
manure. When the weather is suitable take up the early Potatoes, 
allowing them to lie on the ground for a few hours to become 
thoroughly dried, then store away for use. The second early varieties 
should also be lifted as soon as the skins are set. If there be traces of 
disease on the foliage the necessity for lifting is absolute, as nothing 
short of this will arrest its progress. Infested plants should be lifted 
immediately they are noticed, clearing away and burning the haulm. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines .—Vines in pots intended for early forcing should be in the 
last stage of ripening, but if in consequence of the recent dull weather 
any are not maturing freely fire heat should be employed, and that 
with abundance of air will soon ripen them. Any that are mature will 
rest sooner if removed to a south wall, the canes being secured to 
the w r all to prevent injury by wind ; but measures should be at hand 
to protect the roots from heavy rains, as a wet condition would prove 
injurious, and overdryness must also be avoided. All lateral growths 
should be checked by pinching, the old foliage being allowed to fall 
naturally. Early Vine 3 should have a dry warm atmosphere secured 
to them by day with abundant ventilation, especially at night, the 
object being to have the wood thoroughly ripe. If the wood is fully 
