JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
166 
[ August 19, 1880. 
and make plants more quickly than the stems, although these will 
do providing a sufficient stock cannot be obtained otherwise. A 
small portion of sand should be placed at the base of each cutting ; 
and if wanted to bloom next year the cuttings can be inserted in 
the pots they are intended to bloom in, while those for the follow¬ 
ing year’s supply can be rooted in 3-inch pots, in which they will 
stand the winter and can in early spring be transferred into pots 
of a larger size. After the cuttings are inserted in pots they 
should be placed upon a shelf or in any position where they can 
be kept close for a short time. 
The compost should consist of rich fibry loam, a seventh of 
manure, and plenty of coarse sand to keep the soil open. For all 
ordinary decorative purposes 4, 6, and 8-inch pots are large enough, 
but for specimens larger pots are required. The pots should be 
carefully drained. A layer of moss or a portion of the roughest of 
the compost should be placed over the drainage, and the soil should 
be pressed moderately firm. It is surprising what fine healthy 
plants can be produced in comparatively small pots. The roots 
should not be disturbed when potting. 
Watering should be done carefully after the first potting, but 
when the roots have taken well to the new soil liberal applications 
can be given them, with occasional supplies of liquid manure and 
clear soot water. During the winter water must be judiciously 
applied, sufficient only being given to keep the plants from shrivel¬ 
ling, at the same time no attempt should be made to dry the plants 
until they lose their lower foliage, as is practised by some cultivators 
in order to induce them to flower. This severe drying is a great 
detriment to the plants both as regards appearance and the size of 
the flower truss. 
The treatment during summer is simple when potting and 
watering are properly carried out. The plants will require a 
cool frame in the spring to protect them from frost and cold 
winds, ventilating freely on all favourable occasions. During 
June the plants can be placed outside in a sheltered position where 
winds will not injure them. To prevent the shoots being bioken 
by the wind they may be secured to two or three stakes placed 
round the sides of the pots. By placing the plants outside the 
growth is rendered firm and short and becomes well ripened. They 
are sure to bloom well without being subject to the ordeal of dry¬ 
ing during winter. As autumn approaches and there is fear of 
frost the plants must be placed in their winter quarters, where 
frost can be excluded, and the plants have a cool airy temperature 
and be placed close to the glass. 
When exhibition plants are required it is necessary to take the 
points out of the young plants when rooted, or at the latest when 
6 inches in length. It will be found that a young shoot will be 
produced from the base of nearly every leaf if strong cuttings are 
employed in the first place. These should again be stopped in 
spring, and so on through the summer, but not later than the 
early part of August. If rooted at once and kept in frames 
during summer, and stopping the shoots, dwarf plants about 
1 foot high and the same distance through may be produced in 
twelve months having from thirty to forty shoots upon them. 
These are by no means in a condition capable of blooming the 
following year. Plants for exhibition purposes should be grown 
on from cuttings to the desired size before blooming them. Two 
sets of plants will be required to produce a supply of bloom each 
year unless small plants only are in request, which can be pro¬ 
duced from the few shoots that fail to flower. The quantity of 
shoots that miss flowering will entirely depend upon the ripened 
condition of the plants and the time the shoots have had to 
develope. Few flowerless will be found from properly prepared 
plants. 
Kalosanthes must have one clear season’s growth, after which 
nearly every shoot will bloom. Plants that have bloomed should 
be cut back and kept close for a short time, so as to give them a 
chance of breaking again before winter.—W m. Bardney. 
AUTUMN TREATMENT OF EASPBERRIES. 
Amongst small fruits none do better here than Raspberries. 
The soil and climate seem to suit them and they grow freely, but 
probably it is our mode of treating the canes that induces them 
to fruit so freely. I have just finished gathering the fruit. The 
old canes are bare, and the young canes form quite a hedge on 
each side of them. There are double the number of young canes 
that will be wanted or can be laid-in against the fence-like wires 
to which they are trained. To allow all to mature would be 
depriving the fruiting canes of much of their strength, and the 
mass the old and young canes make together would prevent 
many of them from ripening so well as they should. To secure 
this thoroughly, and allow the canes which will produce next 
year’s crop to develope and ripen to the fullest extent, I have cut 
away every old cane and all the small young canes which are not 
wanted for fruiting purposes, and the young fruiting canes are 
tied into their fruiting positions fully exposed to air and sun on 
all sides, and under this treatment I have no fear of their being 
killed by the next severe winter, or failing to produce a crop next 
season, however unfavourable the weather may be. Thoroughly 
ripened wood in all fruit-producing plants is always certain to re¬ 
duce the influences of injurious weather to a minimum.—J. Muir, 
Marqam. 
THE PHYLLOXERA. 
This, the most terrible of all pests to which the Vine is subject, 
has not, fortunately, wrought anything like the destruction to 
Vines in this country that has been experienced in the vineyards of 
the Continent, where whole districts have been devastated by the 
scourge, and many industrious cultivators have been ruined. But 
that the Phylloxera does exist in England I have recently had un¬ 
doubted proof, and the subject is adverted to now for the purpose 
of urging upon gardeners and others who are planting Vines the 
importance of rejecting those that show symptoms of being attacked 
by this most destructive insect, and to enable them to detect its 
presence on either roots or foliage. 
The rcots and foliage represented in the engravings (figs. 39 and 
40) are truthful representations of the attacks of this dreaded insect 
in an English vinery. As will be seen, the symptoms are so distinct 
from all other affections of the Vine that they cannot be mistaken, 
and all who have Vines that refuse to thrive and which have the 
Pig. 38.—Phylloxera vastatrix. ___ 
Female specimens and their eggs, a, Antenna;; b, horns or suckers; c, egg 
plainly visible in the body of the insect; /, winged form of the insect. All 
magnified. 
foliage and roots similarly affected, may conclude that they are the 
victims of the greatest misfortune that can befal them as cultivators. 
The Vines from which the specimens were taken are in charge 
of one of the ablest of British gardeners, whose name and habita¬ 
tion I am not at liberty to name at present, but I can give an assu¬ 
rance that so far as it is in the power of man to prevent it that the 
pest will not be permitted to spread, for the most thorough measures 
will be taken to utterly destroy it. 
The Vines affected were planted three years ago in a very large 
house, and had the gardener been acquainted with the signs of the 
presence of the insects on the roots he would not now have to com¬ 
bat an attack so serious. He had seen engravings of the insects 
magnified (fig. 38), but had no idea of the appearance of the roots 
when attacked by them. 
In one house the Vines were growing splendidly, in the other 
they made little or no progress. The borders in both structures 
were precisely the same, end the general treatment identical. The 
sickly Vines were, as the gardener said, “ a puzzle,” and he 
could “not make out what was amiss.” Having travelled a little 
further than my friend and seen Phylloxera-affected Vines, my 
suspicions were aroused, and roots were sought for and found. The 
moment I saw them I was satisfied of their condition, and after 
holding a portion in the sun and under a lens for five minutes the 
heat made the insects uncomfortable, and at least a dozen of them 
on a portion of root only an inch in length began kicking and crawl¬ 
ing, and the case was settled beyond dispute. The Vines were 
then searched for the leaf form of the insect, and dozens of leaves 
—the young lateral growths—were found affected precisely in the 
manner shown in the figure. 
Much needless fear and anxiety have been experienced by many 
lest their Vines, which have not made satisfactory progress, were 
attacked by this destructive and, for a long time, hidden enemy, and 
it would not be difficult to point out instances where Vines have 
been destroyed on the assumption that they were Phylloxera- 
stricken when nothing of the kind was the case; but whenever the 
leaves are covered with galls in the manner indicated, and the ex¬ 
tremities of the roots—the spongioles—assume a knotted form, or 
more properly become covered with nodosities, it may be at once 
admitted that the much-dreaded insect is present, and the work of 
