196 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t August ss, ism. 
Cabbages .—Seed may yet be sown, as although the plants obtained 
will not he strong enough to put out this autumn they, if properly 
thinned, will stand the winter in the seed bed and may prove useful 
for planting the following spring. Prick out the seedlings obtained 
from early sowings, as strong sturdy plants will he found to succeed 
best. There is a prospect of the ground at present occupied by the 
spring-sown Onions being at liberty in good time to admit of Cabbages 
being planted on it, and will be found very suitable. Unless excep¬ 
tionally hard, diggingis unnecessary ; merely hoe the ground and rake 
off the rubbish, then draw drills about 3 inches deep, plant firmly with 
a trowel, and water in. The rows for the strong-growing sorts, such as 
Early Enfield, Early Heartwell Marrow, and The Battersea may be 
placed 2 feet apart and the plants 18 inches apart, provided large 
heads are required ; but on good ground, as a rule, 1 foot apart in the 
rows will give the best returns. The smaller varieties may be planted 
15 inches apart each way, or the rows 18 inches apart and the plants 
thicker in the rows. 
Cauliflowers .—Seed should now be sown for the earliest crop next 
season. Select an open spot and sow thinly, in order to have strong 
plants for wintering in boxes and frames. The Early London and 
Dwarf Erfurt Mammoth are both suitable, giving the preference to 
the latter. 
Spinach .—The present is a good time to make a sowing of either 
round or prickly Spinach to stand the winter. Select ground that 
was well manured for a previous crop of any kind, break it up 
thoroughly and deeply, make it tolerably firm, and sow thinly in 
drills 10 or 12 inches apart. Where this crop has previously failed on 
the level it is advisable to try a sowing on a raised south border. 
Celery .—Some of the earliest is now being earthed up. Previously to 
the commencement of this operation it is a good plan to lightly cover 
the soil in the trench with a mixture of soot, lime, and a small quan¬ 
tity of salt, which watered in will act as a manure and also prove 
obnoxious to insect enemies. The earthing-up should be done gradu¬ 
ally at intervals of a few days. First pull off all side growths, then 
tie up with matting a little above the hearts and earth nearly up to 
the ties, which should be then taken off, the operation to be repeated 
as the heart advances. Give the later plants abundance of moisture 
at the roots varied with liquid manure, and to prevent rapid evapora¬ 
tion and also their opening-out and consequent splitting of the stalks 
when tied up. work in about 2 inches of fine soil around them. 
Keep all the side shoots closely rubbed off the stems of the Tomatoes, 
but do not denude the main stems of their foliage as yet. During 
hot dry weather they require plenty of moisture and rich food at the 
roots, or the fruit will be small. Thin out Endive, and transplant if 
more is required, and sow the black-seeded Cos Lettuce, Hicks’ 
Hardy Cos, and any of the hardy Cabbage varieties of Lettuce to 
stand the winter. Insects and birds are more destructive to these 
than is the frost. Any vacant spots may be sown with Turnips, as 
they do not impoverish the ground and may prove serviceable. 
GREENHOUSES AND FRAMES. 
Stage Pelargoniums .—No time should be lost with regard to pruning 
the well-ripened plants of these. Cut back the young shoots to within 
three joints (two if they are weak) of their starting point this season, 
thinning out the old wood where crowded, and shortening-in where 
straggling, the aim being to obtain a neat head with a few strong 
shoots. Withhold water till they start afresh, and before they have 
made much progress shake the roots clear of the soil, shorten them 
back considerably, and repot in small pots. The pots must be 
clean and well drained, and employ soil consisting of two parts good 
loam to one of leaf soil, with a good addition of road grit or sand. 
Place the plants in a cold frame, keep them dry for a week, avoid 
shading, and ventilate freely. Cuttings may be inserted at pruning 
time, and may be treated similarly to the bedding Pelargoniums. 
Calceolarias .—The present is a good time for sowing seed of the 
herbaceous section. Employ either G-inch pots half filled with drain¬ 
age or well-drained shallow pans. Over the drainage place moss or 
rough soil. Pill up with a mixture of three parts fine sandy loam to one 
of leaf soil, finishing off evenly and firmly. Over this dust some sand 
and water thoroughly through a fine rose, and allow it to stand say 
through the next night; then sprinkle over a little sand, and into 
this press the seed with a small clean flower pot, and sprinkle over 
a little more sand. Place the pots or pans on a bed of ashes in a 
shady spot, the north side of a wall being suitable, and cover either 
with a handlight or a square of glass till the seedlings are up. No 
watering ought to be necessary till the seeds have germinated. 
Bather than water the surface soil either before or after the seedlings 
are up dip the pots or pans in chilled water till the soil is moist. 
Cinerarias .—A little seed sown at the present time may furnish a 
few plants for late blooming, which if small may be useful. They 
may be sown at the same time and receive precisely the same treat¬ 
ment as advised for Calceolarias. 
Propagating Bedding Pelargoniums .—Although the Pelargoniums 
are now really at their best, they in most instances will have to be 
propagated at once. The growth made, owing to the show r ery 
weather experienced, is of a sappy description—very unsuitable 
for cuttings, and for this reason propagating has been delayed. The 
late fine bright weather had a very beneficial effect upon them. Select 
as much as possible those growths that are really most floriferous, as 
they will both strike more readily and also make better plants than 
the succulent undergrowth. In many cases the tops may be cut back 
to a truss of bloom, which will maintain the display till other blooms 
have developed. Cut to a joint and trim off the lower leaves and 
bracts, and firmly fix in light sandy soil, being always careful that 
the base of the cutting touches the bottom of the hole made by the 
dibber. Shallow boxes are used where large quantities are grown 
and where there is plenty of house room for their reception ; but in 
small gardens, where they have to be wintered either in frames or on 
shelves in greenhouses, 4-inch or 5-inch pots, each holding four or 
five plants, are the most convenient. They are also less liable to 
damp off when in pots whether large or small. Drain the pots well, and 
when filled with cuttings place them in a sunny spot where they can 
be kept dry, and do not water for at least a week. Commence with 
the choicer kinds, such as the bronze, silver, and golden-leaved varie¬ 
ties. Strong healthy cuttings of Verbenas dibbled in 5-inch pots, 
well drained, and filled with light sandy soil and watered in, will 
strike freely in a close frame or handlight, and will form stock plants 
for another season. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Jas. Dobbie & Co. (late J. Dobbie), Rothesay, N.B .—Catalogue of 
Vegetable and Fhirer Seeds. 
Webb & Son, Wordsley, Stourbridge .—Illustrated Catalogue of 
Bulbs. 
Le Tallifc Davis, 47, Exchange Street, Sheffield .—Price List of Bulbs, 
Sutton & Sons, Reading .—Illustrated Catalogue of Bulbs. 
Palm Leaves Scorched (S. II .).—The plant requires a more shaded 
position, and if all the leaves are like the one sent more water at the roots and 
in the atmosphere also. The leaf is very deficient in substance, and in just such 
a state as to be liable to injury by a few hours of bright sun. The root-action is 
defective, but having no data to guide us we caunot suggest what is the cause of 
this, and consequently are unable to suggest a remedy. 
Strawberries, Weight per Acre (A. B .).—It is not easy to answer your 
question, but under ordinary field culture in rather light soil we should consider 
1 lb. of fruit per square yard “ a fair average crop in a fair average season.” This 
is a little over 2 tons 3 cwt. per acre. Under superior cultivation by trenching 
and manuring Mr. Lovel of Weaverthorpe has, we believe, gathered 3 lbs. of fruit 
per square yard. 
Potatoes, Weight per Acre (.Idem ).—Six to seven tons per acre is a 
good average crop under field culture in ordinary soil and seasons. Under very 
favourable circumstances we have often known yields of 10 tons per acre. The 
quantity of seed for planting an acre depends entirely on the size of the tubers 
and the distances they are planted. Some growers will plant an acre with 
8 cwt. of small tubers, while others will use half a ton or more of larger sets. 
“ Green” Gooseberries (Idem ).—Whitesmith and Crown Bob are popular 
varieties with growers for supplying the markets with green fruit early in the 
season. The following are also valuable for this purpose— Antagonist, Com¬ 
panion, Gunner, and Clayton. 
Deodorising Sewage (S. K. T .).—You cannot adopt a simpler and better 
plan than to have a heap of freshly slaked lime near the cesspool, and when the con¬ 
tents are being emptied use the lime liberally as the work proceeds. This is the 
plan adopted in large towns, and when well carried out no cause for complaint 
arises. 
