228 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ September 9, 1880. 
requirements of the plants are of the simplest description. 
Later on the young Cyclamens, Chinese Primulas, Browallia 
elata, Salvia splendens, Zonal Pelargoniums kept denuded 
of bloom and well exposed to the sun at the present time, Chrys¬ 
anthemums, and late Fuchsias will be in beauty. To follow 
these there will be the old Cyclamens, earliest-flowering Cine¬ 
rarias, and Salvias. These will be succeeded by late Cine¬ 
rarias, Primula amcena, P. verticillata, P. japonica, and others of 
the hardier kinds ; the earliest of the large-flowering or stage 
Pelargoniums, Calceolarias, Carnations, Spiraea japonica, Alpine 
Auriculas, and others. Then comes in the main batch of Pelar¬ 
goniums and Calceolarias, more Spiraeas, Zonal Pelargoniums, 
Lobelias, and Harrison’s Musk, which carry on the display till the 
Fuchsias and other previously mentioned plants are in again. I 
am aware that this list is far from being complete, but the object 
of these notes is to show what can be inexpensively done with the 
aid of but little fire heat. 
Where there is a conservatory to be kept gay, with a number of 
plant houses and pits in which to grow the requisite supply, the 
process of plant-growing is much simplified, but with the majority, 
and probably the most enthusiastic of cultivators, house room is 
generally of very limited extent. Yet, strange to relate, it is 
generally in comparatively small places that florists’ flowers are 
to be met with in the best condition. Some of these growers have 
their specialities, others endeavour to grow all kinds of plants 
well. One instance of the latter—I could give several—1 will 
mention by way of illustration. Visit when I will a hardwork¬ 
ing friend of mine, there is invariably much to admire in the way 
of florists’ flowers, all being done with the help of a small plant 
house, a small vinery, two pits, and a few frames, which in ad¬ 
dition have to do duty in the way of growing Melons and Cucum¬ 
bers and the raising and wintering plants for the kitchen and 
flower gardens. The majority of the above-mentioned plants are 
grown, and in addition a few Azaleas, Deutzias, Liliums in variety, 
and Yallota purpurea. One great secret of this gardener’s success 
is, that he works all the principal kinds in batches throughout, the 
plants thus receiving the requisite fair treatment, not being drawn 
up by and smothered with insects, oftentimes in undisturbed pos¬ 
session of the more advanced of the flowering plants. A varied 
arrangement is no doubt most pleasing to the non-professional, 
but the true florist prefers having his favourites massed together, 
and can see plenty to admire in the various forms, markings, and 
colours of the varieties. Where the batch system is practised, 
one kind has frequently to be turned out before it has really 
collapsed in order to make room for a successions! kind, but it is 
often really imperative that this apparently sacrificial act should 
be performed, and florists’ flowers too after they have reached a 
certain stage soon become unsightly and dirty. 
Of the various kinds above mentioned, probably with one or 
two unimportant exceptions, Cinerarias and Calceolarias are the 
most impatient of fire heat, coddling, and mixing: with other 
plants, especially when growing. Of the two the former are. by 
far the most serviceable, and are besides remarkably showy, but 
not so conspicuously so as Calceolarias. The treatment neces¬ 
sary for both is almost identical, the principal difference being 
in the time of sowing, as the Cinerarias are sown at different 
times from April till the end of July, whereas August and even 
early September is early enough for the Calceolarias. It is pos¬ 
sible to err by too early sowing in both instances, as to have the 
plants in perfection they must be kept steadily growing on from 
the time the seed germinates ; and any check experienced, whether 
from becoming rootbound in the earlier stages of growth, or 
being too dry or too wet at the roots, if not fatal in effect will at 
all events be the precursor of an attack of red spider in the case 
of the Calceolarias and green fly on the Cinerarias. It will be 
found no easy matter to dislodge either of these pests when once 
established. Bright simshine and a dry base, such for instance 
as the shelves and staging of a greenhouse, are injurious to both 
species, especially in the earlier stages of growth. A shallow 
frame on a bed of ashes, either at the north side of a wall or 
sloping northwards, will be found suitable ; and when the plants 
are transferred to the greenhouse they should be placed on either 
a slate or a gravelled bottom, and only sufficient fire heat given 
to keep out the frost, or occasionally to prevent damping from 
excessive moisture. 
It is now too late to make a sowing of Cineraria seed, as the 
plants obtained would not attain to a serviceable size. This is 
not the case, however, with Calceolarias, as if a sowing of these is 
made at once good-sized plants may be had from it for flowering 
next May. Those who may have plants of the former, or later on 
of the latter, either in seed pans, pans of pricked-out plants, or 
self-sown in the open, will do well to pot them otf before they 
have become drawn and weakly, employing pots of a size so as to 
avoid cramping the roots. The weakest plants potted into 3-inch 
pots should, when these are well filled with roots, be shifted into 
5-inch pots, and the strongest potted into 4-inch pots be shifted 
into 6-inch pots, the latter being a very serviceable size in which to 
flower them. If larger plants are required some of the best of 
each lot may be shifted on into 8-inch or 9-inch pots respectively. 
Clean well-drained pots should be employed in every instance, 
especially at the final shift, and it is very important that the 
operation of repotting be peformed before the plants have become 
much rootbound, otherwise premature flowering will be the result, 
much labour thus being lost. 
A suitable compost consists of two parts of turfy loam made 
somewhat fine for the small pots, afterwards broken up roughly ; 
one part of leaf soil, with an addition of well-decomposed cow 
dung finely broken ; failing this other decayed manure may be 
used—road grit or silver sand, and a sprinkling of small pieces of 
charcoal. This mixture of certain kinds of soils is given as being 
suitable, but it is not absolutely necessary to adhere strictly to it, 
as very good Cinerarias are not unfrequently grown by those who 
are unable to procure turfy loam. Where such loam cannot be 
had it is very advisable to use more leaf soil, say two parts to 
three of the ordinary loam used, and also charcoal in good quan¬ 
tities, and failing this broken crocks. Drain the pots most care¬ 
fully, commencing with a big crock over the hole, next placing a 
layer of coarse pieces round this, over which more finely broken 
crocks, and finishing off with a thin layer of moss. When potting 
place a layer of the roughest soil over the drainage, over this a 
little finer soil ; work the soil evenly round the ball, and make it 
moderately firm, and finish off evenly, the centre being slightly the 
highest, and filling the pots only so far as to allow the depth of the 
rims for watering space. Very dry soil should not be used, as 
afterwards it is moistened with difficulty ; neither should wet 
soil be employed, as this is apt to go together too closely. It is 
also very important that the balls be in a moist state when re¬ 
potted, as if very dry it is impossible afterwards to moisten them 
without saturating, and subsequently souring the fresh soil. Care 
should be taken not to injure the roots when removing the old 
drainage, and also not to crack the very brittle leaves during the 
operation of potting. 
When the plants are returned to the frames after each opera¬ 
tion a watering should be given them, using a fine-rose pot and 
tepid water, and the frame should be kept somewhat close till 
they are re-established, afterwards giving air freely. Crowding 
the plants is especially injurious; every plant ought to be clear 
of its neighbour, as nothing shows off the bloom better than 
healthy unbroken foliage. If the plants have to remain in the 
frames till nearly their flowering times it is very advisable that 
they be placed on inverted pots, the ashes about them occasion¬ 
ally freshened by raking, water be given carefully without any 
splashing about, and air given freely on all favourable occasions. 
Frost must of course be carefully excluded. Occasional mild 
fumigations with tobacco will keep the plants free from green 
fly, and when near their flowering time they will be materially 
assisted by alternate waterinsrs with liquid manure. If large 
plants of Calceolarias are required the growths may be pinched 
once or twice. Do not, however, pinch those plants that are to 
flower in small pots, nor the Cinerarias, whether in large or 
small pots. Calceolarias require their bloom heads to be lightly 
supported with sticks. 
To ensure the germination of Calceolaria seed, first fill well- 
drained pans or pots with soil consisting of equal parts fine loam 
and leaf soil with some sand, make this firm and lightly cover 
with sand, then water through a fine rose, and in the course of 
about six hours sow the seed thinly and evenly, press it into the 
sand, and lightly sprinkle a little more sand over it. Select a cool 
shady place, place the pan on a bed of ashes under a handglass, 
or cover the pan with a square of glass until the seedlings appear, 
which they should be before any water is required. Do not water 
the seedlings overhead, but moisten the soil by dipping. As soon 
as the plants are large enough to handle prick them out about 
2 inches apart in pans or pots, using soil similar to that in which 
the seed was sown, again place them under handlights, afterwards 
treating them as advised above.—W. Iggulden. 
TOMATO CULTURE. 
I WAS much pleased to see, on page 179 of the Journal of Horti¬ 
culture, the advocacy of the extended cultivation of the Tomato 
taken up by so able a pen as that of Mr. Iggulden. There is no 
doubt that the relish for the Tomato is rapidly extending, but, 
perhaps, is more the result of the palate becoming accustomed to 
them, or I might say educated (for the relish for Tomatoes is 
certainly an acquired taste), than from the introduction of superior 
