290 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ September 23 , isso. 
fungus are everywhere. The resting spores have been kept alive 
for three years simply in pure water, and they germinated after 
this time. In fact, the only way to satisfactorily see the ordinary 
spores germinate is in water. I have for many years been in the 
habit of constantly using the microscope, and I have found the 
spores of the Potato fungus on the most diverse objects, and from 
the most diverse positions, showing that the spores must have 
been blown for long distances in every direction. Now, suppose 
the statement to be correct (although it is not correct) that the 
spores of the Potato fungus are not carried far by the wind, are 
there no other means of dissemination at hand than disturbed air'? 
Suppose a fox or hare runs through a field of infected plants, and 
then goes off to non-infected districts, he will carry tens of thou¬ 
sands of spores in his coat. Suppose a bird alights amongst 
infected Potatoes, when that bird flies off he will carry tens of 
thousands of spores in his wings, and discharge them into the air 
as he sails over the country or the sea. The innumerable beetles, 
flies, moths, butterflies, and grubs found amongst Potato plants 
commonly swarm with spores. When a farmer goes into his 
infected fields he inhales the spores into his lungs, and when he 
eats his fruit from the walls of his kitchen garden he takes the 
spores into his stomach. From the above it will be clearly seen 
that any idea whatever founded on stamping out, can only be a 
wild dream.” 
The above will at least have as much weight as extracts from 
the daily press, written possibly by penny-a-liners who have no 
practical acquaintance with the subject on w r hich they write so 
glibly. I have at the special invitation of the “ author ” read the 
book more carefully, and, I may add, have enjoyed the reading of 
it, but I much fear I shall not be a sack of Potatoes better for all 
it contains. Still, paradoxical as it may appear, I consider it cheap 
at a shilling.— A Lincolnshire Potato Grower. 
|ifl 
Q> 
WORK/oigheWEEK.. ' 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines .—Late Grapes should now be ripe, and they will then keep 
satisfactorily, but if there is any doubt as to their maturity employ 
fire heat till they are fully ripe. Thin-skinned varieties of Grapes 
such as Black Hamburghs, &c., will at this season require examining 
frequently, removing all decayed berries. Damp should be expelled 
and prevented as much as possible by occasional fire heat by day 
with free ventilation ; night firing should be avoided. Intermediate 
houses will now be nearly cleared of their crops, and if the wood is 
not ripening freely fire heat should be employed in the day, but 
turned off at night. Divest them of laterals down to the principal 
buds, and check all lateral growths by close pinching. Similar re¬ 
marks apply to young Yines not having borne fruit but which are 
expected to fruit next season, taking care in the removal of the 
laterals not to injure the old leaves. Give every attention to young 
Vines that were planted this spring; keep the foliage clean, remove 
all laterals, and maintain a w T arm atmosphere with a free circulation 
of air until the canes are thoroughly ripe. Yines in pots intended 
for early forcing should now be cut back to a length of 6 to 8 feet, 
placing the plants in a cool, dry, airy position for a season of rest. 
Peaches and Nectarines .—When the fruit has been gathered in the 
late houses the next important object is to secure the ripening of 
the wood. This can best be done by thinning out unnecessary shoots 
in addition to those which have borne fruit, the latter being cut out 
to a successional shoot at the base, and the former being thinned 
wherever overcrowded. In the case of strong vigorous growths it may 
be necessary to accelerate the ripening of the wood by gentle fire 
heat, especially in dull weather, at the same time admitting air freely. 
Some of the late Peaches, as Desse Tardive, Walburton Admirable, 
Princess of Wales, &c., in cold localities will require gentle fire heat 
to ripen them thoroughly. An occasional syringing will be necessary 
for trees from which the fruit has been gathered. Trees not in a 
satisfactory condition should, as soon as the wood is mature, be par¬ 
tially or wholly lifted. I f this be done whilst the trees are in leaf 
the house should be shaded before commencing operations, and the 
old border made thoroughly moist. In removing the old soil com¬ 
mence at the point most distant and work towards the trees, and 
when it has been cleared away the exposed roots should be drawn 
aside, damped, and covered with mats whilst the drainage is being 
attended to ; this should consist of 9 inches thickness of rubble, and 
be covered with turves grass side downwards. Fill in with strong 
loam, and if calcareous it may not be necessary to add lime rubbish, 
though a tenth of that material will be beneficial in most cases, and 
a twentieth of charred refuse. This should be rammed very firmly ; 
and the roots, after having any strong fibreless portions shortened 
with a knife, must be spread out evenly over the bed, covering them 
with soil as they are laid out, and when all are covered give a good 
supply of water at a temperature of 80° to 908; the remainder of 
the soil may then be placed on the roots, but they should not be 
covered deeper than 6 inches. The shading must remain on if the 
weather be bright, and afford ventilation by the top lights only, 
syringing the foliage morning and afternoon until it is seen that the 
roots are working in the fresh compost, when the shading may be 
removed and the house opened. The trees will rest and be in capital 
order for forcing when required. They rarely cast their buds after 
being lifted, and the flowers set better ; indeed the operation of lifting 
is very commendable but too little practised. Trees in good health 
will not require lifting, but it is a good practice, especially for old 
trees, to remove the soil from the surface and supply fresh compostj 
as the roots will benefit by it, adding to their vigour and the size 
and quality of the fruit produced. When Peaches and Nectarines 
are forced early in pots they must now be attended to in top-dressing 
or repotting; these should be done whilst the trees are in leaf, so 
that fresh rootlets may be produced before the leaves fall. For 
either purpose the loam must be strong and calcareous, sandy loam 
being of no use. Should the trees, from having been in pots some 
years, require renovation, they may be turned out and the ball reduced 
with an iron prong, returning to the same size pot or one that will 
admit of an inch or two of additional fresh compost. The soil cannot 
be rammed too firmly. The trees should be retained under glass 
until the foliage is mature, when they may be placed outdoors. 
ORCHARD HOUSE. 
It is of the greatest importance that the wood of all fruit trees be 
properly ripened, and as soon as the fruit is gathered all superfluous 
shoots should be at once cut out, so as to admit to the remaining 
shoots and spurs as great an amount of light and air as possible. 
Any trees that have been placed outdoors and have not ripened the 
wood satisfactorily should be returned to the house, in order that the 
ripening process may be accelerated by a comparatively dry atmo¬ 
sphere. The ventilators should be open night and day, and occa¬ 
sionally syringe trees that have borne fruit to cleanse the foliage 
of dust and insects. Fig trees in pots showing a good second crop of 
fruit may be removed to a house or pit where they can be assisted 
with artificial heat, and be well supplied with liquid manure to 
enable them to swell off and ripen the fruit. Most other kinds of 
fruit will have been gathered except the late varieties of Peaches and 
Plums, and these should at once be potted if necessary, not waiting, 
as is too often done, until the leaves have fallen ; but by potting as 
soon as the fruit is gathered active roots will be abundant before the 
leaves fall. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Stove .—The first batch of Poinsettias should now be placed in the 
stove, where they can be accommodated with a temperature of 60® to 
65° at night, keeping them near to the glass and feeding with liquid 
manure. These should be the strongest, and if well attended to they 
will make a fine display. The weakest plants should be brought on 
slowly in a temperature of about 55° at night, affording water only 
to prevent the loss of the lower leaves ; they will flower later and be 
very useful. Euphorbia jacquiniasflora must not be allowed to re¬ 
main too long in a cool house or the roots will perish, 50° to 55° 
being quite low enough, care being taken not to supply too much 
water. Centropogons should only have sufficient "water to keep the 
foliage in good condition, feeding with liquid manure, as this will not 
only promote the production of large heads of bloom, but will induce 
a strong second flowering from the upper joints after the principal 
terminal growths have flowered. Some plants of Plumbago coccinea 
superba and P. rosea should be kept at the coolest end of the stove, 
