JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. c September 23, isso. 
292 
with ventilation as above advised, as it is useless attempting to 
keep Grapes in a cold damp house filled with plants, and there are 
hut few small gardens where the vineries can be kept clear of plants. 
Azaleas, Camellias, Heaths, Epacrises, Coronillas, Deutzias, Spiraeas, 
and Chrysanthemums will do well in a dry, cool, or warm atmosphere 
as the case may he, and may be therefore placed in the vinery. 
Salvias, Eupatoriums, Libonias, Solanums, Browallias, Petunias, Zonal 
Pelargoniums specially prepared for autumn flowering, Salvias, Callas, 
Abutilons, and softwooded plants generally, will do best in the green¬ 
house. Rather than any of the above useful kinds should be crowded 
Coleuses, Balsams, and even Fuchsias if over-abundant, should be 
thrown away to make room, as none of them would present a fresh 
appearance much longer. Better results will be obtained by growing 
a few good healthy plants than a number of weakly specimens. 
Those who intend attempting to keep Coleuses and Iresines through 
the winter in houses in which a somewhat low and therefore unsuit¬ 
able temperature is maintained, should select some of the smaller 
plants, say in 5-inch pots, and well established, placing them in the 
warmest and driest part of the house. Water must be given them 
very sparingly and always chilled, and the foliage be kept as dry as 
possible. They have been kept alive through some winters in the 
windows of living rooms by those who failed to keep them in a green¬ 
house, but much trouble was necessarily taken with them. Winter¬ 
flowering Begonias, such as B. fuchsioides, B. Digswelliana, B. In- 
gramii, B. Saundersii, and B. semperflorens, are sometimes seen in 
very good condition in imperfectly heated structures. These plants 
must also be well established in rather small pots and watered care¬ 
fully, though not allowed to become dust-dry, as that would be very 
injurious. The proper place for the large-flowering Pelargoniums 
during the winter is on shelves near the glass. Not much water 
should be given them. 
Cyclamenpersicum .—The present is the best time to make a sowing 
of these in order to obtain sturdy plants with which to make an early 
start next 'spring for blooming the following autumn. Fill one or 
more 6-inch pots half full of potsherds, over this place a little rough 
soil, filling up to near the top with fine and rather light sandy soil. 
Sow the seed thinly, press it in, cover lightly with fine soil, and water 
through a fine-rose pot. Cover the pots with slips of glass and place 
them on a greenhouse shelf, shade from bright sunshine, keep the soil 
uniformly moist, and a successful germination will be almost certain. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
E. G. Henderson & Son, Maida Vale, London.— Catalogue, of Bulbs. 
J. B. A. Deleuil, Rue Paradis, Marseilles .—List of Bulbous and 
Tuberous Plants. 
George Cooling iSr Son, Bath .—List of Bulbs. 
Harrison & Sons, Leicester .—Catalogue of Bulbs and Flower Roots. 
R. Pennell &. Son, 169, High Street, Lincoln .—Catalogue of Bulbs. 
*** All correspondence should be directed either to “ The Editors ” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Mr. Johnson or 
Dr. Hogg often remain unopened unavoidably. We request that 
no one will write privately to any of our correspondents, as doing 
so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and 
should never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Eryngium maritimum (M. E. //.).—The Sea Holly is a perennial plant, 
and usually succeeds in a slight sandy soil; but possibly your specimens have 
suffered in the transplantation. The only remedial measure we can suggest is 
to supply them with a weak solution of salt, as possibly the soil in which they 
are planted is deficient in saline substances. As the plant is a native of the 
seacoast in various parts of Britain more or less salt must enter into its 
constitution. 
Brown and Tait’s Eclipse Cauliflower (J. <?.).—We have had other 
testimony besides your own of the usefulness of this variety for culture and use 
during the summer, and the heads that you sent to us last year quite sub¬ 
stantiated all you had said regarding the variety. If other writers on gar¬ 
dening had produced similar heads in a dry district they would have been 
fully justified in writing approvingly of the variety, and no doubt would have 
readily done so. 
Gardener Emigrating {Emigrant). —We regret that we are unable to 
supply you with the information you require. Some of the principal nursery¬ 
men have occasional applications for men to take the charge of gardens in 
America and the colonies. If you are personally known by any influential 
nurseryman you might make your wants known to him ; failing this your only 
course will be to advertise either in British or colonial horticultural papers, or 
both. 
Benham Hybrid Melon ( Old Subscriber). —This Melon, Mr. Howe, the 
raiser of it, informs us, is the result of a cross between Victory of Bath and 
Golden Queen. There is, however, a Melon named Scarlet Queen, which Mr. 
Howe also possesses. 
Old v. Gilbert’s Victory of Bath Melons {Idem ).—The Melon 
exhibited by Mr. Goodacre of Elvaston at the Alexandra Palace was named 
“ Old Victory of Bath,” a variety that he had many years ago from Taunton. 
We do not know what difference there is between the “ old ” and Gilbert's 
Victory, and curiously enough a letter is now before us from a cultivator who 
states he has grown both the Melons named, of which he obtained seed from 
original sources, and can find no difference whatever between them. The name 
of the Onion to which you refer was correctly given on page 236. The naming 
of products at exhibitions is not always so clear as it should be. It is of great 
importance that new varieties be clearly and legibly named when they are first 
exhibited. 
Begonia Leaves Blistering {Gloticester). —Without knowing anything 
about the conditions under which your Begonias were grown, and the mode 
of culture pursued, we are unable to suggest the cause of the plants being in 
their present unsatisfactory condition. The crumpled and blistered foliage 
may arise from defective root-action, diseased tubers, or sudden fluctuations of 
temperature. Possibly, however, the evil is at the roots ; the tubers may have 
been slightly diseased, and the plants may have been overwatered during their 
early stages of growth. 
Storing Potatoes {F. M. S.). —After many years’ experience we have con¬ 
cluded that there is no better mode than storing them in a dry outhouse in 
layers, alternating with sand, and covered with sand or soil to exclude frost. 
If you have no such convenience for wintering the tubers you can only adopt 
the mode of storing recommended to a correspondent last week on page 269. 
Late Roses ( Freemason ).—Most of the best Hybrid Perpetuals are good 
late bloomers, but the particular period at which they bloom depends partly 
on the time of pruning, and much more on the state of the weather. The 
following are good varieties and autumnal bloomers :—Charles Lefebvre, Alfred 
Colomb, Louis Van Houtte, Star of Waltham, Madame Lacharme, La France, 
Prince Camille de Rohan, Marechal Niel, Gloire de Dijon, Marie Rady, Beauty 
of Waltham, and Alfred K. Williams. 
Plants for Baskets {S. II.). —We do not think that the temperature would 
be too low for Tropmolums of the Lobbianum species, except, perhaps, during 
the depth of winter. Tuberous Begonias are bright and effective basket plants 
during the summer, also Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums, so also are Achimenes. In 
the spring the baskets may be rendered very gay with bulbs, as Hyacinths, 
Tulips, &c., succeed admirably in them. Lachenalias are fine in baskets, the 
bulbs being placed close together all round the moss-lined sides, the centre 
being filled with rough soil. Mr. Ollerhead of Wimbledon has several baskets 
thus filled every year, and they are most beautiful in spring. 
Fruit Tree Barren {A. II.). —Hnripened wood is no doubt the cause of 
your trees not producing fruit, or possibly the frosts of spring have destroyed 
the blossom. We do not perceive that there has been any fault in the planting, 
while the soil appears favourable to the growth of the trees. If you have thinned 
out the growths where they were crowded according to instructions that have 
been given in the Journal, the shoots remaining will have become firm and 
mature, and your trees will, in all probability, bear well next year, unless late 
spring frosts destroy the blossoms. For destroying the insects dissolve 5 or 6 ozs. 
of soft soap in a gallon of water, adding thereto a wineglassful of paraffin, and 
apply it to the stems with a stiff brush, scrubbing the solution well into the 
crevices of the bark. 
Hyacinthus candicans — Planting Agapanthus (Mrs. Davie). —If 
you have no glass structure to which you can apply artificial heat jou had 
better let the seedlings remain as they are, watering them carefully so as to keep 
them growing as long as possible. Had you a heated structure we should advise 
you to prick them off and keep them growing on a light shelf near the glass ; 
but to divide them now without such convenience would probably end in the 
loss of many of them. You would have succeeded better by preserving the seed 
and sowing it in the spring. On the approach of warm weather you may divide 
your seedlings, transplanting them thinly in large pots, or in light soil in a 
frame. In all probability your Agapanthus would succeed planted out in a 
warm sheltered border, affording a little protection during winter, which we 
presume is not usually very severe in your district; but we should not turn the 
plant out until the spring. 
Woodliee in Peach Wall (J. P .).—Either all the joints should be care¬ 
fully “ picked out ” and the courses freshly “ pointed,” or the wall should be 
plastered. If you adopt either of these remedies, and also remove much of the 
surface soil from the border, especially near the wall, and apply fresh and rather 
heavy loam, you will at the same time practically eradicate the pests and im¬ 
prove the condition of your Peach trees. A great number of the woodliee may 
be caught by placing a boiled potato in a small flower pot and covering it with 
moss. A number of traps so prepared and placed on their sides will attract 
many of the pests. The pots must be examined daily and the woodliee destroyed ; 
but the radical remedy in your case is to carry out our recommendations as to 
pointing the wall and removing the soil. 
Flowers for Cutting (J.C .).—IVe do not think you would find it profit¬ 
able to attempt growing under the shade of Vines plants for affording cut 
flowers from .Tune to September. Probably if you had a number of Tea and 
other Roses in pots they would afford some flowers that would be acceptable, 
the plants being placed in the open air to make their growth after the flowers 
were cut. Marechal Niel would not succeed well on the shaded back wall. Why 
not grow a number of Tea and other Roses in the open air for producing 
flowers during the period named ? No plants succeed under Vines better than 
Camellias, and flowers of the white varieties are always in request. White 
Chrysanthemums are in demand in the autumn, and a number of plants of Mrs. 
