312 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND C01TAGE GARDENER. 
[ September 30, 1880. 
divided. Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Daphnes, Laurustinus, Magno¬ 
lias, and Arbutus are transplanted. The following are also now 
recommended to the colonial florist: Poinsettia. Weigela, Latania, 
Double-blossom Peach, Persian Lilac, Guelder Rose, Tecoma 
velutina, Escallonias, Poinciana, Erythrina, Lagerstrsemia Clero- 
dendron, Bouvardia, Datura, Gardenia, Tabermemontana, Oestrum, 
Corchorus, and the Hibiscus. 
September is a very gay spring month in Queensland, especially 
with Azaleas and Verbenas. These are admirably fitted to that 
climate. Layers of Camellias, Azaleas, and Magnolias are made, 
while Balsams, Cockscombs, and other annuals are sown, as well as 
Stocks, Asters, and Lobelias. The blooming Gladioli and Ama¬ 
ryllises require shelter from rough winds. In October the Roses 
are perfect, Dahlias are staked, Verbenas are planted, annuals are 
sown, and pot plants protected from insects, always pretty lively 
in Australia. November wants scythe and hoe. Climbers are 
tied up, herbaceous plants are cut down, and bulbs are stored ; 
annuals and tender-foliage plants are transplanted in showery 
weather, and attention given to watering this dry month. In 
December the weeding is important; edgings are trimmed, 
climbers tied, and tall plants staked. Roses may be budded, 
Carnations propagated, and flower seeds gathered. 
While Brisbane market is pre-eminent for fruit, it is especially 
delightful for its show of flowers all the year round. The colonists 
are proud of their flower gardens, especially of Australian fragrant 
and flowering shrubs, though patriotically devoted to the culture 
of those English varieties associated with early years and dear 
old friends. Queensland of late years has introduced a large 
variety of Chinese, Indian, Mexican, and Brazilian flowers, for 
the growth of which its fine climate is so adapted.—J. B. 
WOf^FORTHE WE EK, • 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Cauliflower .—Plants will now shortly be ready for planting in 
handlights ; select the most forward, pricking the others into frames. 
Good strong loam should be employed, as it promotes sturdy growth, 
and with proper attention to ventilation the plants will better endure 
severe weather. The lights should only be employed in case of frost, 
it not being possible to give too much air when the external tem¬ 
perature is above 35°. Examine the plants commencing heading, and 
break a few of the larger leaves over the heads to protect them from 
any sudden frost that may occur after this. 
Lettuce .—For the spring and early summer supply Lettuces should 
be planted in rows 1 foot apart upon a sheltered border, or they may 
be placed in the spaces between the early Peas, which will shortly be 
sown, in rows 4 feet apart; rows of a Cabbage variety of Lettuce 
can be placed 1 foot from each side of the Peas, and a row of Cos in 
the centre. Where the soil is light it is necessary that it be made 
moderately firm by treading, and then rake the surface to render it 
even. Dust the plants with quicklime to destroy slugs. When the 
main crop of Lettuce has been planted a quantity of the Cos variety 
should be pricked out in a sheltered situation. Plants from the July 
sowing should ere this have been placed in frames or in ground where 
they can readily be covered; if not, the operation must not be longer 
delayed, planting the alternate rows of Cabbage and Cos 8 inches 
apart every way. The Cabbage varieties—Paris Market and All the 
Year Round—will be off before the Cos ; Bath Cos, Sugarloaf, and 
eve'-y other plant of the Cabbage may be cut for early use. The 
lights should not be placed on until frost commences. In connection 
with this it may be stated that it will be necessary to provide accom¬ 
modation for the Lettuce and Endive, which are to be lifted from the 
open ground to give a continuous supply when that outside is either 
exhausted or destroyed. The preservation of these in cold frames 
involves much labour and has often unsatisfactory results, so that 
where large supplies are needed shallow pits with moveable lights, 
and the command of sufficient artificial heat to exclude frost, are 
essential to provide salads in good condition throughout the winter 
months. 
Cabbage .—The removal of the crops of Onions and Potatoes will 
render the ground available for planting Cabbage ; it should at once 
be prepared by digging and manuring if necessary. If large heads 
are wanted a distance between the plants of 20 to 24 inches every 
way will be required, but for ordinary purposes 18 inches will be 
sufficient. The plants must be protected from the ravages of slugs 
by dustings of quicklime, wood ashes, or soot. 
Parsley in pits should be well thinned, but the pits may still be 
kept open except on frosty nights, when the lights should be put on 
and removed during the day. Where no other shelter can be had 
strong spring-sown plants may be carefully lifted and placed in deep 
boxes or large pots. These placed in an orchard house or vinery 
from which the Grapes have been cut will furnish a supply in severe 
weather. Chervil may be treated in a similar manner. In order to 
keep up a supply of the tender vegetables every aid or protection in 
the open air should be attended to in due time. The earliest crops 
of Celery should now be finally earthed-up, well beating down the 
banks of soil so as to exclude rain as much as possible. In case of 
sudden frost to take up and place under protection Cauliflowers 
which are fit for use. Examine Tomatoes on walls, &c., and cut them 
as they ripen. Should indications of frost appear it will be desirable 
to cut all Tomatoes that are of size, and lay them in a vinery or 
similar place to finish. Ply the hoe whenever the weather is favourable 
between the rows of growing crops, and keep weeds under, as every 
growth they make is only so much taken from the soil. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Melons .—The weather lately has not been favourable to the late 
crops, having been cold and wet, during which canker is most trouble¬ 
some, and cracked fruit most prevalent. The best practice is to keep 
both the soil and the atmosphere dry, and to employ fresh-slaked 
lime upon the first appearance of canker. Cease syringing the foliage, 
and supply water only at the roots to prevent the foliage flagging. 
Remove all superfluous growths. The late fruits are swelling-off 
well and must be supported. Maintain a temperature of 70° to 75° 
by day artificially, and 05° at night, closing the house early in the 
afternoon at 80° to 85. After this time cease applying water to plants 
in dung-heated pits or frames ; a dry condition at the roots will 
accelerate the ripening process. Any fruits that have finished swelling 
on plants that are dying should be cut with a good portion of stem 
and placed in a warm dry house to ripen. 
Cucumbers .—Be liberal in the treatment of the plants for autumn 
fruiting to obtain a strong growth, as much of the after success 
depends upon the foundation now laid. Remove all staminate 
flowers and tendrils, avoiding overcropping, and be careful not 
to allow the fruits to hang too long upon the plants. Gradually 
reduce the atmospheric moisture as the days shorten, and employ 
the syringe only on bright warm afternoons. Earth-up the roots 
from time to time, pinching out the growing points of the shoots 
about every week or ten days, reserving as much wood only as will 
ensure the full admission of light, and in watering have it about the 
same temperature as the bed. The plants for winter fruiting should 
be in their places about the middle of October to ensure a good 
supply at Christmas. See that the heating apparatus is in thorough 
order, and complete the preparation of the fermenting material. 
Attend well to the requirements of the young plants, keeping them 
near to the glass to ensure sturdy growth, and be careful to test the 
heat of the bed before planting out. A bottom heat of from 85° to 
90° will be safe, but the latter temperature should not be exceeded. 
Figs .—The Fig trees in pots for early forcing must he attended to, 
examining the roots, and if needful remove a few inches at the base 
of the balls, cutting back the roots, and supplying fresh fibrous loam 
and a sixth of old mortar rubbish or road scrapings ; also remove the 
loose surface soil, filling up with the compost above named, and a 
fourth of old manure; after that give a good supply of water, and 
place the trees where they can have plenty of air, but without being 
exposed to rain or frost. Trees in pots that have the roots extending 
into the fermenting beds and not started until early in the year will 
probably continue growing, and the roots should be cut through 
about a foot from the pots, and the plunging material removed to 
below the bottom of the pots. A slight syringing occasionally will 
be sufficient to keep down red spider until the leaves have fallen. 
