September so, 1880 . ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
All unripe fruit should be removed, and a dry atmosphere maintained. 
Fig trees planted out should now be kept drier at the roots, which 
will tend to mature the growths, and as soon as the second crop is 
gathered keep the house cool and dry, ventilating fully except during 
frost. Where root-pruning or lifting is contemplated preparation 
should be made of the requisite compost—viz., turfy loam, with some 
old mortar rubbish added, and a sprinkling of half-inch bones, and 
these operations should be performed as soon as the leaves show 
indications of falling. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Propagation should now be finished, and the winter quarters pre¬ 
pared for receiving the plants, as sharp frosts may shortly be ex¬ 
pected. Plants intended to be lifted should be protected upon the 
first appearance of frost. It is generally advisable to save most of 
the tricolor and other variegated Pelargoniums, and some of the 
flowering varieties, as they come into flower sooner and more freely 
than young plants, and are valuable for planting in vases, baskets, &c. 
On account of the comparative slow growth of tricolor, bronze, and 
other ornamental-leaved varieties it is not desirable to head them back, 
merely removing any crowded branches and stripping them of their 
leaves ; the remaining shoots being left at full length will afford an 
early and plentiful supply of cuttings in spring. The green-leaved 
varieties should be cut back, have the roots trimmed, and be placed 
in small pots. The plants should have a dry atmosphere and a tem¬ 
perature of about 50°, to keep them slowly growing through the 
winter. 
Calceolarias and Violas. —Cuttings of these maybe inserted in frames 
with the lights facing north, and in an open situation as regards light, 
placing about 6 inches of rich soil in the frame, and over this about 
an inch of sharp sand. The cuttings should be from the base of the 
plants, short-jointed growing shoots of about two nodes and the 
growing point, inserting them 3 inches apart, and giving a good 
watering. The lights need not be employed until frost or to throw 
off heavy rains, when they should be tilted. Violas will strike freely 
inserted about 2 inches apart in nursery beds in the open, the soil 
being rendered firm about the cuttings and kept moist. 
Plant out Pinks finally where they are to bloom, the ground being 
previously well prepared by exposure and frequent turning over. 
Pansies and Violas intended for early flowering should be planted at 
once. Place choicer varieties of Pansies under glass in cold frames. 
Finish planting or potting Carnation layers as soon as possible, pro¬ 
tecting those in pots from heavy rains. In making up beds of 
Carnations, Picotees. and Pinks it is advisable to give a good dressing 
of soot and fresh-slaked lime before planting, to prevent the attacks 
of wireworm. Anemones for early flowering should now be planted) 
covering them 2 to 3 inches deep, and surrounding with sharp sand. 
Anemone fulgens is one of the most beautiful. The herbaceous or 
mixed border is a very suitable place in which to grow bulbous- 
rooted plants, as they are not disturbed and can ripen off the growth. 
Plant English and Spanish Irises about 4 inches deep in well-drained 
soil, and mulch the surface with leaf soil before frost about 2 inches 
thick. Gladioli of the ramosus section may also be planted about 
6 inches deep as soon as conns can be obtained. Blandus, Cardinalis, 
Colvilli, and Colvilli albus are valuable for cutting ; masses of the 
early-flowering kinds are really magnificent in June and July. 
Autumn Crocuses are very beautiful, as C. nudiflorus, C. speciosus, 
C. odorus longiflorus, C. byzantinus, C. etruscans, C. medius, C. 
serotinus, and C. zonatus, with Colchicum autumnale vars., C. byzan- 
tinum vars., and C. speciosum rubrum in masses make an interesting 
display. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Greenhouse .—Prom now until Chrysanthemums come in is the 
worst season in the year for flowers, therefore encourage late 
Fuchsias to continue flowering by regularly removing the seed pods 
as the flowers drop, and assisting them with weak liquid manure. 
Any late Gladioli that have not yet flowered may be taken up and 
potted in G-inch pots, and will be ready for conservatory decoration, 
the lifting not interfering with their flowering. Dwarf Scabious 
may also be lifted and potted, and done carefully they will give a 
quantity of useful sweet flowers for cutting. Schizostylis coccinea 
313 
may be lifted and potted, and they will give a quantity of useful 
flowers over a lengthened period. 
Zonal Pelargoniums. —Plants that have been well grown and are 
strong and well furnished, having had the flowers removed instead of 
allowing them to form, will be very useful, keeping them at the 
warmest end of the house, where they will receive plenty of light 
and will give a number of flowers for some weeks. Plants that have 
been specially prepared for winter flowering should now be placed in 
a house or pit where they can be kept rather dry until they are 
removed into heat to bring them into flower. 
Cinerarias. —Plants from seed sown in spring will now be well 
advanced for flowering, and should be assigned a light position in a 
house with a temperature of 50°, and they will afford a useful supply 
of flowers for cutting, especially the self-coloured varieties—blue, 
crimson, purple, and white. The general stock should be kept cool 
and moist to ensure sturdy growth, fumigating moderately upon the 
first appearance of aphides. Plants in small pots should be given a 
shift, and as the flower bead is being produced supply liquid manure. 
Primulas should no longer remain in pits and frames, but be trans¬ 
ferred to a light airy house and receive weak liquid manure. Abuti- 
lons struck in spring and grown on through the summer will be 
flowering freely, and should have a temperature slightly higher than 
an ordinary greenhouse to keep them growing and flowering through 
the winter. Eochea falcata does not sometimes open its flower head 
in an ordinary greenhouse, and may be given an increased tempera¬ 
ture, in which it will display its bright heads of bloom unrivalled in 
colour at this season. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
S. Dixon & Co., 34, Moorgate Street, London, E.C.— Catalogue of 
Bulbs. 
VVm. Paul it Son, Waltham Cross, Herts.— Catalogue of Roses. 
Books (.4. B).— We can only suggest that you advertise the books you 
desire to sell, stating their condition and the price you want for them. 
Gypsum (J. H P.). —It is a combination of sulphuric acid and lime, and is 
a constituent of many cultivated plants, especially of the Clovers. It is sold by 
all dealers of manures. 
Hedychium (J/. It. IF.).—The English name of the Hedychium is Garland 
Flower, but the species you mention is unknown to us. Are you sure you 
transcribed the name correctly ? 
Fruit Trees for Wall (F. J.). —Both Pears and Plums will succeed in 
the position you name, and the following are good varieties -.—Pears: Williams’ 
Bon Chretien, Louise Bonne of Jersey, and Doyenn6 du Comice. Plums: Kirke’s 
Victoria and Green Gage. 
Propagating Violas (Hem ).—Short sturdy-rooted slips, which will soon 
be plentiful, will form plants as good for massing purposes as those raised from 
cuttings ; but the latter usually produce the finest individual flowers. 
Enlarged Oak Buds (IF. S.). —The very large and abnormal buds which 
you have sent are very singular. They are the result of the puncture of an 
insect, the cavity of which is perceptible quite in the centre of the mass and 
close to the growing axis of the bud. 
Eucliaris ( Seventeen-years Subscriber'). —The name, as is stated in the 
Supplement of the “ Cottage Gardeners’ Dictionary,” is « from eucharis, agree¬ 
able, alluding to the fragrant flowers.” Yours is probably an old edition of the 
Dictionary. 
Allamanda Hendersoni (TF. B.).— We have no doubt the plant, if it is 
not started into growth too early, will succeed in the house you name. An in¬ 
termediate house during the summer is practically equivalent to a stove. We 
should not start the Allamanda quite so early as the Stephanotis, as the latter 
plant will succeed in a lower temperature than the former. 
Dendrobium nobile (J. B.). —You had better remove the plant into the 
other house as you propose, assigning it a position near the glass, where it can 
have all the light possible. Only water it sufficiently to keep the foliage fresh, 
and the growths will become firm and flowers show in the course of a few weeks, 
when it can be again placed in the warmer structure. 
Grass in Orchard (F. E. D.). —If the second crop is heavy it would not 
be wise to leave it on the ground ; but if light it might not do any barm, nor do 
we think it would do much good. As you do not want it for hay it might be 
placed in a yard with pigs or other animals, and converted into manure. If it 
cannot be so used place it in a heap until it decays, and then have it dug into 
the land. 
Seeds and Plants for Garden (A Reade>-).—ll you will state full par¬ 
ticulars as to the size, aspect, and character of your garden, also whether you 
