JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
834 
with an abutment or pillars projecting 10 inches every 12 feet. 
The blister could not therefore be caused by the cold east winds, 
as the pillars would prevent that. I have also seen the double- 
blossomed Peach and Almond trees as badly affected in the plan¬ 
tation as these were against the wall, and trees on a wall facing 
the west have been similar. 
It is quite possible the Potato disease might be induced by a 
scald from the sun in the same way as it always commences after 
heat and showery weather just at the time the skin is setting, the 
fungus being the result; as heat and moisture always favour the 
growth of fungi, and hot dry weather always has the opposite 
tendency and seems to arrest it. This will account for the fact 
that if Potatoes which have been affected are taken up and 
allowed to remain in a large heap most of them will rot, while 
laying them thinly in a cool place will save many of them. 
The rust in the Grapes I have no doubt might be traced to the 
same cause, produced by the steam from the hot-water pipes and 
the action from the sun ; but the shanking I cannot believe to be 
so caused, as it is always clearly due to exhaustion. Lifting 
and leplanting the Vines in a fresh border will entirely remove 
all shanking till the Vines again become exhausted.— George 
Clements, Hazeley Manor , near Warwick. 
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KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The weather during the present autumn has been favourable for the 
eradication of weeds, and those who took advantage of it by hoeing 
frequently amongst the young autumn-sown crops will have benefited 
those crops considerably, and at the same time have imparted a neat 
appearance to the garden. The hoe is not only of great service in 
extirpating weeds, but the oftener it is used amongst such crops 
as Lettuce, Spinach, Cauliflower, and Cabbage, the less destructive 
will slugs be to the young plants. It is for this reason that sowing 
the seed in drills is preferable to sowing broadcast, when the soil 
amongst the young plants can only be stirred by a slow and tedious 
process. Weeds that are permitted to grow in the drills and seed 
beds of the crops named at this period of the year, render the young 
plants tender by excluding the air from them when every effort 
should be made to render them hardy. With this object in view—and 
it is of great importance—the plants should be thinned out sufficiently 
and in good time to provide for each sufficient space to ensure its 
becoming sturdy and to the greatest extent hardy. This remark 
applies to all crops that are sown in the autumn, for overcrowded 
growth now is an almost certain precursor of failure in a few weeks 
or months hence. Thousands of plants are sacrificed annually through 
the neglect of timely thinning, and the matter demands special atten¬ 
tion at the present time. Plants for the earliest crops have been 
already transplanted, and as those from successful sowings become 
large enough they must be transferred to the positions prepared 
for them, and the sooner such work is completed the better. Celery 
should be earthed before the occurrence of severe frosts, as if the 
plants are in the slightest degree injured before the earth is applied 
decay will ensue, and the value of an important crop will be seriously 
impaired. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vities .—Late Vines judiciously aided with fire heat in the spring will 
have finished off crops of ripe well-coloured fruit, which will winter 
much better than Grapes that still require artificial heat to ripen 
them. With the Grapes thoroughly ripe the wood and foliage will 
be well matured, so that all spray and laterals may be removed 
down to the chief buds. Liberal ventilation will be required upon 
all favourable occasions, and as the foliage ripens the temperature 
may be allowed to fall to a minimum of 50°. Late Grapes require to 
hang some time before being in suitable condition for table. These 
and other ripe Grapes will require examining twice a week, and to 
prevent dust settling on the berries sweeping and raking must be 
avoided as much as possible. There must not be any further delay 
in pruning Vines that are intended for supplying Grapes early in 
May. Dress the Vines with an insecticide, and clean the house 
[ October 7, 1880. 
thoroughly, keeping it cool to ensure complete rest until about the 
second week in November. Vines that were pruned last September, 
and intended to afford ripe fruit in March or early April, should now 
have the house closed, but do not allow the day temperature to 
exceed G5° without free ventilation. Fermenting material inside will 
assist the Vines in starting, but it is necessary that it be prepared 
by damping and turning it over a few times in a heap. If the roots 
of the Vines have access to outside borders, some fermenting material 
should be placed on them at least a fortnight before closing the 
houses, or at least the application of fire heat. The earliest Vines in 
pots may now be started, and if a little bottom heat can be afforded 
them they will start better ; the temperature at the base of the pots 
not exceeding 70° until the Vines are growing. The temperature at 
starting should not exceed 55° artificially, and 65° by day without free 
ventilation, but it may gradually be increased to 65° by day artificially, 
and 70 Q to 75° with sun heat, and 60° at night, falling to 55° in the 
morning. The canes should be slung in a horizontal position to 
induce them to push their buds evenly throughout the length of the 
rods. The house and Vines should be damped two or three times a 
day. Young Vines will show a disposition to continue growing, but this 
must be checked by moderate stopping, and the ripening of the wood 
facilitated by keeping a high and dry temperature through the day 
and by shutting off the heat and opening the ventilators by night. 
Where bracken is plentiful a good supply should be prepared for 
covering up late borders before the shutters are placed on for the 
winter. 
Pines .—Young growing plants should now be arranged so as to 
obtain the fullest benefit of sun heat. With the diminution of this 
a corresponding reduction of temperature should take place until it 
reaches the artificial winter standard—viz., 55° to 60° at night and 
65° in the daytime. Whenever circumstances are favourable ventilate 
freely. Pay great attention to watering at the roots, making a weekly 
inspection, and whenever a plant needs water supply it copiously at 
the same temperature as that of the house. Continue 70° as the 
minimum for fruiting plants, 75° artificially in the daytime, and 80° 
to 90° with sun heat, closing at 85°, sprinkling the surfaces of the 
pathways as they become dry, and occasionally syringe the plants on 
fine sunny afternoons. Keep the bottom heat steady at 85° to 90°. 
Avoid too much water at the roots, as this is apt to cause the fruit 
when ripe to cut black at the centre, especially during the winter and 
spring months. 
Peaches and Nectarines .—The trees in the earliest forced house 
have now lost their foliage, and if any pruning or dressing be needed 
the trees should be attended to before tying them to the trellises. 
The borders may be pointed over, the loose surface soil removed) 
fresh loam and decayed manure supplied, adding about 12 per cent 
of half-inch bones or bone meal, and a similar per-centage of wood 
ashes, following with a good watering. The roof lights may remain 
off until November, when it will be necessary to replace them to ward 
off heavy rains and probably snow, air being freely admitted, except 
during frost. Allow the outside borders of early houses to have the 
benefit of whatever rains may fall in October, afterwards protect 
them with litter, shutters, or tarpaulin. The foliage of trees started 
early in the year will be falling, and should be cleared away as they 
fall. When they are all down lose no time in having the house 
thoroughly cleaned and the trees pruned, dressed, and tied to the 
trellises, top-dressing the border as before advised unless the trees 
have been lifted or root-pruned this season, when it will not, of 
course, be necessary. Late houses should be proceeded with as the 
trees are cleared of their crops in lifting wholly or partially as may 
be necessary, any operation necessitating interference with the roots 
being best performed whilst the trees are in leaf. Where there is any 
shifting of trees or transplanting from walls needed it should be done 
whilst the trees are in leaf, the wood and foliage being mature before 
doing so, as immature growths are liable to shrivel if the trees are 
disturbed at the roots too early. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Stove .—Where climbing plants are trained up the rafters and flower 
in the summer, such as Aristolochias, Passifloras, <fcc., they should be 
cut freely back now to allow plenty of light to reach the plants that 
