October 7, 1880. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 335 
stand under them ; but Ipomsea Horsfallire and plants of a similar 
habit that flower through the winter must not be pruned now, as 
what is cut away will necessarily reduce the number of flowers. The 
following climbers are in flower now :—Bougainvillea glabra, Stepha- 
notis floribunda, Passiflora Madonna, P. kermesina, P. princeps, 
P. calycina, and P. Countess G-uiglini; Allamandas and Dipladenias. 
Stephanotis floribunda must not be cut-in at this season. The best 
plan to insure bloom with this plant is to grow it in a light position, 
and not too moist, allowing it to remain on the roof through the 
winter and for flowering, after which thin-out or cut well-in, and 
encourage fresh growth for the ensuing season. 
Allamandas intended for early flowering that will need to be cut 
back at the commencement of the coming year should now receive 
no more water than will keep them from flagging severely. Keep 
the plants near to the glass in a warm dry atmosphere, and a free 
circulation of air where it will not affect other plants injuriously. 
Ripening stove plants by plenty of light and a moderate dry atmo¬ 
sphere is every way more satisfactory than the low temperature 
sometimes resorted to to induce rest. Ixoras that have become too 
large should now be cut well back ; and if there is any mealy bug wash 
the plants thoroughly with an insecticide, repeating the operation 
two or three times in the course of ten days. Where stove plants 
are grown in large numbers and sufficient heat is employed to have 
them in good condition mealy bug increases rapidly. This is the 
best time in the year to endeavour to destroy it, as an onslaught now 
made and persisted in for this and next month, when the insects 
increase very slowly and the plant is at rest and better able to bear 
an application of the mixture, will prove most effectual. Every part 
of the plants from the soil to the point of the shoots, every crack 
and inequality, must be thoroughly washed, and this should not be 
done once but half a dozen times, so that no insects escape. Old fan 
or similar material must be cleared away, every hole or crevice in 
the brickwork stopped up, and thoroughly wash the walls with lime, 
the woodwork where necessary being painted thoroughly. 
Begonias of the winter-flowering section should receive every 
encouragement, supplying liquid manure, giving all the light pos¬ 
sible, and sufficient heat, but no more than is requisite to induce 
their flowers to open freely. So treated the flowers in a cut state 
will last much longer than those from plants grown in a hot, moist, 
and dark house. 
Richardias. —A few plants should now be placed in heat for early 
flowering ; a temperature of 55° at night is ample, and 65® by day, 
as when kept warmer they become weak in leaf and flower, not bear¬ 
ing moving to a conservatory where the temperature is lower ; there¬ 
fore to ensure dwarf sturdy plants keep them near the glass, keep 
them well supplied with liquid manure, and ventilate the house 
moderately. 
Lily of the Valley. —A few pots or pans of these should now be 
placed in heat, the flowers being at no time more acceptable than 
at the close of the year. Roots that have been forced in spring and 
continued under glass until the growth was completed, and then 
placed outdoors to rest, will have well-developed crowns, and can 
readily be forced. At this season a bottom heat of 85° to 90° for 
single crowns is absolutely essential, so as to give the roots a start in 
advance of the tops, otherwise they are apt to go blind. Covering 
them with pots is often attended by the flowers going blind when 
the cover is removed, and if pots are employed at all they should 
be removed gradually so as to inure them by degrees to full light. 
Place a few more Roman Hyacinths, Paper White and Double 
Roman Narcissus, in moderate heat to insure a succession of flowers ; 
keep them near to the glass, and in a temperature of about 55° 
artificially. 
NOTES ON VILLA AND SUBURBAN GARDENING. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Pelargoniums. —Frost has already been experienced in some dis¬ 
tricts, and may shortly be anticipated in most parts, however favour¬ 
ably situated they may be ; therefore the lifting and potting of choice 
Pelargoniums, or of any of which there are insufficiency of cuttings 
struck, should no longer be delayed. The common varieties may be 
packed thickly in boxes, but those of the bronze, zonal, or tricolor 
types should either be potted off rather thickly in 5-inch or 6-inch 
pots, or singly in 3-inch pots. Lift the plants with a fork, pick off 
the oldest leaves, trim-in the roots with a knife, and place the plants 
in pots or boxes firmly. Employ shallow well-drained boxes ; the 
pots to be also well drained. Any common light sandy soil will do, 
provided it is not dust dry. With regard to watering, much depends 
upon where the plants are to be wintered. In any case no water 
should be given till the roots are healed, or damping off will probably 
be the result. Those that are to be kept in frames should have a dry 
well-drained bottom, receive abundance of air, and have the decaying 
leaves frequently picked off. The best places for them are on the 
back shelves, the swinging shelves of vineries, or the back shelves 
of the greenhouse; but the autumn-struck cuttings should receive 
the preference for these positions, the older plants, especially the 
common varieties, being most hardy. Old plants are sometimes cut 
back when lifted, but the above plan is best, and besides it gives an 
opportunity of striking more cuttings in the spring. Autumn-struck 
plants may be placed in their winter quarters, but should receive as 
much light and air as possible, and be kept almost dust-dry at the 
roots to prevent them making strong growth, the result of which is 
to make them much more susceptible of injury from frost and damp. 
Ageratums and Lobelias. —Although these come remarkably true in 
some instances from seed they are best propagated by cuttings, as 
they then make a much more even and more floriferous growth. 
Select any that are of marked superiority, and lift with a small ball. 
Place the Ageratums in 6-inch pots, and the Lobelias in 4-inch pots. 
Drain well, employ moderately rich soil, and pot firmly. Water 
them, and place in a somewhat shady position in a house, or keep 
them rather close in a frame till established. Both may be trimmed- 
in, but not very closely. Verbenas, with the exception of V. venosa, 
do not lift well, neither do Heliotropes and Petunias ; but where 
cuttings were not struck during August the attempt should be made 
both to strike cuttings if a little bottom heat is available, and also 
to lift a few old plants, the latter to be treated as advised for the 
Ageratums, using, however, 5-inch pots for them. Verbena venosa 
strikes most readily from the roots in the spring, and as they are not 
quite hardy a good quantity should be lifted with the roots entire 
if possible, have then - top trimmed-in, and be packed thickly and 
flatly in shallow boxes. If rather moist soil be used no water will be 
required, especially if they be wintered in cold frames. 
Abutilon Thompsoni and Veronica Andersoni variegata. —These after 
doing good service in the flower garden can be readily lifted and 
prove equally as effective in the greenhouse during the dull winter 
months, and be much superior to any that may have been kept in 
pots. Lift with a good ball which may be reduced so as to go into 
8-inch pots, and still smaller in the case of the Veronica. Employ 
good soil, water after potting, and keep them somewhat close and 
shaded for a time. 
Dahlias. —Those that are unnamed should each have a label bearing 
a description of the variety for future guidance fastened to the bottom 
of their stems, and old labels renewed where required as soon as they 
are damaged by a slight frost, or if a very severe frost be imminent 
cut down the plants to within 9 inches of their base ; lift carefully, 
clear the tubers from soil, and when these are thoroughly dry pack 
them away in a dry shed. A little dry soil may be worked in among 
the tubers, and they should be protected from severe frosts. They 
will keep plump in a cool dry cellar if placed in a single layer 
without any soil about them. 
Cannas if in a well-drained position may be wintered in the 
open ground, provided they are well protected with leaf soil, cocoa- 
nut fibre, or other material ; but the simplest plan is to lift the 
clumps with a little earth attached and store away with the Dahlias. 
Clumps wintered in a cool dry cellar started readily last spring, 
whereas many in pots wintered in a cool house failed to start afresh. 
The Golden and White Marguerites (Chrysanthemum frutescens) 
may be readily lifted, and can be wintered in a cold frame or green¬ 
house. A strong plant will give a number of cuttings in the spring, 
which will strike readily in heat. 
Violas and Shrubby Calceolarias.— These require similar treatment, 
