356 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t October u. isso. 
But to have a more perfect imitation of plant crystals take a 
small strip of sheet zinc and solder it on to the end of a similar 
piece of sheet copper, and immerse the zinc end up to the join in 
a solution of chloride of lime, and the copper will soon become 
studded with minute acicular crystals, exactly similar to others to 
be found in plants. If the sap be viscid the crystals assume a 
globular form, and are then termed “ spheraphides.” These have 
been produced electrically in great abundance by using white of 
egg to thicken the solution. Such, then, being the means provided 
for the preparation of the plant’s food at one end, the next point 
will be the consideration of those arrangements which effect its 
conversion at the other end into the various products and tissue 
of the system.—W. K. Bridgman, Norwich. 
Errata .—Page 301, eighteenth line from the bottom, first 
column, for “ 3 cl. per foot run ” read ( Jd .; page 305, twenty- 
eighth line, first column, for “nitrogen” read “hydrogen.” 
THE STAPLEFORD ROSES. 
I think “ D., Deal," on page 299 too hasty in his conclusions 
about Mr. Bennett’s hybrid Roses; there has scarcely been time 
to thoroughly ascertain their good or bad properties. The short 
time since these Roses were distributed, and their absence with the 
exception of one or two varieties from the various Rose shows of 
1880, may afford some grounds for “ D., Deal's," conclusions. I 
was more surprised when he stated that the heads of a well-known 
London firm should also speak against them. It seems strange 
that nearly all nurserymen, or their representatives, should praise 
these varieties so highly when first offering them, and then before 
being well known condemn them. I cannot say at the present that 
the Stapleford Roses will ever surpass such a variety as La France, 
which I consider one of the most useful Roses in cultivation. 
“ D., Deal," must bear in mind if these Stapleford Roses never 
become famous as exhibition varieties they may prove of much 
value for many other purposes. I do not altogether judge a 
Rose upon its merits in the exhibition tent as regards its form 
and beauty, but upon its general use for all purposes. What I 
have seen of the Stapleford Roses so far, they appear to possess 
advantages which will be highly prized by gardeners who have 
Roses to produce in quantity during the w T orst months of the year. 
No one can say they are not floriferous in their nature, every 
small shoot producing a bloom and continuing to do so in succes¬ 
sion for months. Every small plant, when only G or 8 inches 
high, will commence flowering, and I believe when well tried these 
small plants will be most welcome amongst the many plants used 
for room decoration.— Wm. Baedney. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Clear off all exhausted crops so as to have the ground in readi¬ 
ness for digging or trenching, but where large fruit or other trees are 
growing in or near the garden it is well to defer turning up the soil 
until the leaves have fallen. Before digging or trenching, a dressing 
of quicklime at the rate of about a peck per rod w T ill be beneficial in 
the destruction of slugs and their eggs. Manure, except in a crude 
state, is best applied in early spring, especially for trenched ground. 
Trenching should be practised not more distantly than every third 
year, and when the soil is of a retentive character it should be turned 
up in ridges of about 2 feet at the base, so as to expose as much 
surface to the action oE the atmosphere as possible during the winter. 
Root Crops .—The main crops of Carrots, Salsafy, Scorzonera, Beet, 
&c., should now be taken up on a dry day, and placed in an airy shed 
to become moderately dry before storing away in moist sand in a 
cool place. Do not pare the tops too closely, and in taking up Beet 
be careful not to cut or break any of the tap roots, as in that case 
the colour will be much deteriorated when cooked. 
Cauliflowers will now require considerable attention to protect the 
heads in case of sudden frosts ; sufficient at present will be attained 
by breaking down a few leaves over those most advanced, and it 
assists in keeping the heads clean and white. Complete the planting 
of Cabbage for spring use, and a number of strong plants placed a 
foot apart on a warm border will come in early and prove useful as 
Coleworts. Early crops should have a little soil drawn around the 
stems to steady them against wind, also dusting with lime or soot 
as a deterrent to slugs. 
Forcing Department .—A hotbed of fermenting material should at 
once be made about 2 feet in height, well trodden or beaten down, 
the frame being placed on, and the bed covered with about 4 inches 
depth of light rich soil. When the soil is warmed through sow 
Radish seed, and as soon as the seedlings appear above the surface 
withdraw the lights until the Radishes are well advanced in growth, 
when they will bear being kept closer. Wood’s Frame is the best 
long variety ; Scarlet and White Forcing Turnip, with French Break¬ 
fast, are the best for forcing in pits or houses. Late crops of French 
Beans in pits or frames will require considerable attention to prevent 
them damping off, ventilating constantly, maintaining a temperature 
of G0° to 65® at night and 70° to 75° by day. Make successional 
sowings in 9-inch pots, employing rather light rich soil, and keep the 
pots well up to the light. Commence periodical sowings of Mustard 
and Cress. Where Seakale is required very early, strong plants with 
well-developed crowns may now be lifted and have the leaves care¬ 
fully stripped off or cut-in with a knife, placing the roots in rich 
moist soil in a Mushroom house or similar place where there is suffi¬ 
cient heat and means are taken to exclude light. A fermenting bed 
will facilitate the growth, the top heat ranging from 60° to 65°. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Melons .—The season, as regards dung-heated pits and frames, may 
be considered at an end ; we may therefore dispense with any further 
instructions in this department for the present. To have Melons 
late plenty of both top and bottom heat must be at command, and 
where these exist Melons will still form part of the dessert. Atmo¬ 
spheric moisture will require to be sparingly furnished after this, 
especially in dull weather, affording very moderate supplies of water 
at the roots, about once a week being often enough. Remove all 
superfluous laterals and thinning out the old growths and foliage, so 
as to give the fruit the benefit of the autumn sun. A temperature of 
70° to 75® should be maintained artificially, falling to 65° at night. 
As opportunity offers a quantity of rather strong loam cut with its 
turf about 4 inches thick should be secured and stacked grass side 
downwards, adding about a bushel of quicklime to every ten of loam. 
This allowed to lie over winter will be an excellent compost by the 
time it is required in spring. Cow dung, if it is likely the loam will 
need enriching, should be collected and kept dry. 
Cucumbers .—Place out the plants intended for winter fruiting at 
once on raised hillocks or ridges as near the glass as the form of the 
house admits. Let the autumn-fruiting be regularly cut over twice 
a week, removing all tendrils and male blossoms, maintaining a 
night temperature of 75®, falling to G5® in the morning, 70° to 75® 
artificially in the daytime, and 80® to 85° with sun heat, admitting a 
little air upon all favourable opportunities. Continue keeping the 
evaporation troughs filled, and damp the floor at about 7.30 A.M. and 
3.30 P.M., ceasing syringing over the foliage now ; and if mildew 
appear dust well with flowers of sulphur, fumigating if aphides are 
seen. Reduce the supply of water at the roots, but not so much as 
to cause flagging. Keep the glass thoroughly clean to admit all the 
light possible. 
Cherry House .—The lights which were removed need not be replaced 
for another month or six weeks ; in the meantime have them repaired 
and painted. If any removal of the trees be intended it should be 
attended to as soon as the leaves commence falling. Trees-not in a 
satisfactory condition should have their roots examined, and the soil 
must be removed, carefully lifting the roots to within 2 or 3 feet of 
the stem, and, after seeing that the drainage is in good order replace 
them with as little delay as possible in fresh compost. Turfy loam, 
with about a sixth of road scrapings and a twelfth of old mortar 
rubbish forms a suitable compost. It should be employed rather dry 
and rammed well down, giving a good watering at once. If fresh 
trees have to be introduced select those that have been trained to a 
wall for about four years, and if carefully lifted and planted they will 
give good results the first season. The varieties most suitable for 
growing under glass are Black Tartarian, May Duke, Elton, Governor 
Wood, and Frogmore Early. It is essential that the border be 
