358 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. f October u, isso. 
Vanda caerulea, Odontoglossum grande, and Pleiones can bear a 
dry cool temperature, giving them just enough water to prevent 
the plants from suffering, thus prolonging the blooming period. 
Calanthes now throwing up their flower spikes should have every 
encouragement of heat and moisture, keeping the leaves clean by 
frequent spongings. Dendrobiums and Cattleyas which have com¬ 
pleted their growth will now require very little water. Phalaenopses 
must be very carefully supplied with moisture, for should the leaves 
be overcharged at this season they are very liable to decay. Zygope- 
talums starting into growth should be repotted, the pots being three 
parts filled with potsherds, filling up with good rough peat, and 
growing in a moist atmosphere. The temperature of the East India 
house should have a mean of 70° by day and 00° at night; the 
Cattleya house G5° by day and 55° by night; and the Odontoglossum 
house 55° by day and 45° by night. The atmospheric moisture must 
also be reduced, and syringing overhead discontinued, except to 
prevent shrivelling, and for newly imported plants. Very little venti¬ 
lation will now be necessary except when mild, when a little air may 
be given. [Let the woodwork and glass be thoroughly cleaned, taking 
advantage of every opportunity to give the plants a thorough clean- 
ing.PSlugs are very destructive to the growths and roots, they should 
be sought'[after with a lamp at night. Plants sometimes become 
shrivelled from the roots decaying, in which case shake out and cut 
away all dead roots, washing the remainder with tepid water, re¬ 
potting and giving very little water until fresh roots are pushed, 
keeping a moist atmosphere and syringing frequently. Syringing will 
be all that is necessary to restore shrivelled pseudo-bulbs to plump¬ 
ness, the roots being healthy, 1 but water lightly at the roots. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
William Paul & Son, Waltham Cross, Herts.— Special Catalogue of 
Boses, Fruit Trees, Shrubs, cfc. 
Cranston’s Nursery and Seed Company, King’s Acre, Hereford.— 
Catalogue of Roses. 
Boulton & Paul, Norwich.— Illustrated List of Ornamental Iron 
Fences and Gates. 
Osborn & Sons, Pulham, London, S.W.— List of Trees and Shrubs. 
John George Hill, Merriott Nurseries, Crewkerne, Somerset.— Cata¬ 
logue of Fruit Trees, Nursery Stock, anl Bulbs. 
John Jefferies & Son, Cirencester.— Catalogues of Roses, Trees, and 
Shrubs. 
<>_r 
wwmitmitnntg^* 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
you No. 994 of the Journal, you will find notes on their propagation and culture 
that will possibly be of service to you. If you need special information on any 
particular point relative to these plants we will readily supply it through our 
columns if you will state your requirements fully and clearly. 
Wintering Alternantheras (Kingston). —You cannot preserve them in 
your cool greenhouse from which “ frost is only just excluded.” They are stove 
plants; and like many others that must have a warm house in winter, Coleuses 
for instance, they succeed well in the open ground in summer. A temperature 
of 60°, or 55° as a minimum, is essential to the preservation of Alternantheras 
through the winter. 
Anemone japonica (A Subscriber, Warwick). —The plant to which you 
refer was probably a chance seedling, and there is considerable variation both 
in the size and shades of colour of plants raised from seed. We have seen many 
flowers as deep in colour and better in form than yours ; still the variety is a 
very pretty one and worthy of preservation. 
Grapes not Colouring (J. E.). —The great number of small berries in¬ 
dicate that the flowers were imperfectly fertilised, possibly owing to a low tem¬ 
perature and moist atmosphere during the flowering period, which prevented 
the dispersion of the pollen. Want of colour is generally the result of over¬ 
cropping. The “ black stalks ” to which you allude indicate that the Grapes 
are shanking, which is frequently induced by overcropping or defective root- 
action. Not knowing the age and condition of the Vines, with the weight of 
the crop on each rod, we are unable to give a more explicit reply. 
Rose for Wall (Stirling Castle). —Few Roses give more satisfaction for 
covering space on a wall than Gloire de Dijon, which flowers early and late, and 
occasionally produces blooms suitable for exhibition. If you prefer a dark Rose 
probably Duke of Edinburgh will suit you. It is a free grower, and affords 
richly coloured blooms, several of which under good cultivation are fine for 
exhibition. Charles Lefebvre is also a good pillar and exhibition Rose. The 
Pear sent is the English Caillot Rosat, the Apple Gloria Mundi. It is good, but 
we have received some larger specimens this week. Your Lord Suffield is above 
the average, but we have seen larger examples. 
Camellia Buds Abnornal (J. C.). —The plant was either too exhausted 
by excessive flowering last year or its roots received a check, possibly by drought, 
at the period when fresh growth was being produced. If all the growth ter¬ 
minals are similar to the one you have sent the plant will not recover without 
some pruning, or at least it will be brought into a satisfactory condition much 
sooner by the judicious aid of the knife. All the shoots should be shortened to 
parts where healthy buds are apparent; and if there are no such buds we should 
cut the plant down much after the manner of pruning a Pelargonium, as no 
plants break more freely from the old wood than do Camellias. The pruning 
should be done in spring, and the plant placed in a warn moist house and be 
syringed frequently, when it will in all probability produce fresh growth freely, „ 
and become as healthy and vigorous as a young plant. 
Inarching Vines (Corespondent). —We would rather inarch or graft the 
Madresfield Court with the Buckland Sweetwater than the Gros Colman, as on 
the latter, which is a very strong grower, the Grapes might be liable to crack. 
The Duke of Buccleuch we should inarch with Gros Colman, and the Canon 
Hall Muscat with the White Tokay. We cannot account for the unpleasant 
flavour of your Grapes except on the supposition that you have watered the 
Vines with liquid manure after the Grapes commenced ripening. This does not 
always affect the flavour, but it does occasionally, and the practice is not a 
safe one, and is not adopted by good cultivators. 
Hautbois Strawberry (Tyro ).—The old Hautbois is a very small fruit, 
pale in colour and with prominent seeds, and has the peculiar flavour of the 
wild Strawberry of the woods, Fragaria vesca. It is scarcely worth cultivating. 
Prolific Hautbois is larger with purplish fruit, and is richer in flavour. The 
Royal Hautbois is much larger than either of the preceding, the fruit being rosy 
purple in colour and rich in flavour. It is by far the best variety of Hautbois. 
You say the Hautbois is not so “ much as mentioned ” in the work you quote, 
but if you look carefully you will find it under the name of Fragaria elatior. 
All the varieties of Hautbois are totally distinct in appearance and flavour 
from the ordinary dessert Strawberries, and are much smaller. The peculiar 
flavour is agreeable to some palates, but not by any means to all. You had 
better obtain a dozen plants of the Royal Hautbois, and try the fruit before 
planting the variety extensively. We can only answer your second letter 
through the post, and for this purpose your full address is essential. 
%* All correspondence should be directed either to “ The Editors ” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Mr. Johnson or 
Dr. Hogg often remain unopened unavoidably. We request that 
no one will write privately to any of our correspondents, as doing 
so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and 
should never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Apples for Orchard (P. Gruel ).—If you will state the number of trees 
respectively of dessert and culinary varieties that you require, and the district 
for which they are intended, we will publish a suitable selection. 
Lcucadendron argenteum (John Sheppard ).—The silvery leaf you sent 
is that of the handsome Silver Tree, or Leucaiiendron argenteum, of the Cape of 
Good Hope, where the colonists also know it as the Witteboom. The tree was 
at one time in great request there to furnish a supply of firewood, and that led 
to the destruction of so many that it is now comparatively scarce. 
Tropaeolum speciosum (P. P., Dublin ).—We know of no reason whatever 
“why this plant will not succeed in Ireland,” and your failure to establish it 
does not prove that it will not grow there. We think there are plants growing 
in Ireland, and we know many persons have failed to establish it in England, 
while several have succeeded, and the plants grow and flower freely. It appears 
to like a cool position and an abundant supply of water. 
~ rT ~ - --- lU" 
Name of Tree (Winchester ).—Please send us another spray, and also 
leaves of the different forms to which you first alluded ; none of those sent were 
lobed. We think on examining the leaf variation we shall be able to give you 
the correct name and some information relative to the tree. 
Camellia Culture (D. 71).—There is no pamphlet published on Camellias. 
If you send 3£ii. in postage stamps to this office, and ask the publisher to send 
Trees for Churchyard (A Yorkshire Curate ).—We apprehend that you 
require evergreen trees for your churchyard ou the East Yorkshire coast, as 
those you have tried are Conifers. Thujopsis borealis (Cupressus Nutkaensis) 
is a most graceful Conifer of erect habit, forming a beautiful conical tree, very 
hardy ; indeed it is never injured by frost, and is naturally a coast tree, being 
found on the north-west coast of North America—viz., Nootka Sound, Obser¬ 
vatory Inlet, and on the island of Sitcha. It emits a fine balsamic odour, and is 
the tree of trees for your purpose, and we should employ it exclusively. Pinus 
pumilio is a trnnkless spreading bush, very hardy, and is from the Alps beyond 
the highest limit for growing trees. Pinus austriacus forms a dense spreading 
tree, and sombre in aspect. Pinus insignis sempervirens is also very valuable 
for seaside planting. Of deciduous trees the Bed-twigged Lime (Tiba sanguinea), 
Ulmus campestris, Ulmus campestris fastigiata, Beech common and weeping, 
Platanus occidentalis, and Weeping Birch. Evergreen Oaks also succeed well, 
but are liable to have the leaves browned. 
Flowers for Front Garden (A Reader ).—If Roses thrive in your dis¬ 
trict you might have a half-standard in each bed, La France and General 
Jacqueminot being good garden varieties. No flowers succeed better in towns, 
and none are more suitable for mixed beds than the old scarlet Clove, the 
flowers of which are both beautiful and sweet. White and other common Pinks 
would also he suitable. Perennial Candytufts would precede these. Sweet 
Williams are excellent for small mixed beds, and are readily raised from seed 
sown iu the open ground in June, so also are Antirrhinums, two or three plants 
of the flowers named to be planted towards the centre of the beds ; and nearer 
the margin Pansies and Polyanthuses, which also may be raised from seed, and 
still closer to the edge double Daisies and Thrift. Those would do as per¬ 
manent occupants; between them a few Stocks and Asters planted in May, 
and seeds of annuals sown in March and April, such as Mignonette, Nemophilas, 
Saponarias, dwarf Convolvuluses, Lupins, and Clarkias, with a patch or two of 
Linum grandiflorum and Venus’s Looking-glass, would render your beds both 
gay and sweet. For flowering in autumn plant Anemone japonica with its 
variety alba. For such gardens bulbs are indispensable ; and Winter Aconites, 
Crocuses, Snowdrops, Tulips, Hyacinths, and Anemone fulgens should be 
planted at once. If stout neat pegs are firmly inserted to mark the positions 
of the bulbs, these may remain in the beds as permanent occupants, and the 
soil being suitable they will grow and flower each year. 
