October 14, 1880.] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 359 
Small’s Admirable Apple {G. B. V., Co. Down ).—In all probability tbe 
very mode you have adopted to render the tree fruitful has had au opposite 
effect. You say you have “ pruned regularly summer and winter,” and yet your 
tree produces little blossom. We advise you to try another mode. Thin out 
the branches if crowded, and do not prune at all except to prevent overcrowding 
of the growths. This Apple has a tendency to produce blossoms on the ends of 
the shoots. We have seen trees that have been pruned systematically com¬ 
paratively barren, while others that were seldom touched with the knife laden 
with fine fruit. It is a very good Apple. 
Wireworms {Under Gardener ).—You have been rightly informed that 
“ the wireworm is not a worm at all, but the grub of a beetle.” This beetle is 
called Cataphagus lineatus by some entomologists, and Elater segetis and E. 
striatus by others. It is very appropriately called Cataphagus, from the Greek 
word signifying to devour, and lineatus, or lined, 
from the brown lines along its wing-cases. The 
larva, or wireworm, of this beetle is a pale dirty 
orange or tawny colour, having six very short legs. 
The body is formed of twelve scaly rings besides 
the head. Two different kinds, the offspring pro¬ 
bably of different species of this genus of beetle, are 
represented in the annexed cut. In the same appears 
the C. lineatus magnified, and the line by the side 
shows the natural length of the insect. It is of a 
dull brown colour, with a greyish down over it; 
head and thorax black. The lines on the wing- 
cases are in pairs, united at each end, and the legs 
and antennas dull red. The beetle may be found 
under moss in hedges and elsewhere throughout the 
year. Its larva preys upon the roots of almost all 
cultivated plants. In the garden those of Lettuces, 
Turnips, Carrots, Potatoes, Cabbages, Irises, Pinks, 
Lobelias, Anemones, Ranunculuses, Carnations, and 
many others are destroyed by this vermin. Digging gaslime into the soil has 
been recommended for driving it away, and the root of the white Mustard is 
said to have the same effect. Other remedies are to grow plants for which they 
have a greater fondness near those we wish to protect. The roots of the double 
Daisy are such a lure for them, and from a row of these grown to protect Car¬ 
nations, &c., two thousand wireworms are recorded as being taken in one 
season. Soda ash dug plentifully into the soil is also said to destroy them, but 
their most effectual exterminator is the mole. 
Planting Tulips (J. E. D .).—The best planting season is about the begin¬ 
ning of the second week in November, as near the 9th of that month as the 
weather and the state of the ground will permit. This rule applies to all the 
country north of London; perhaps in the milder climate of the southern coun¬ 
ties a week later would be better. Offsets may be planted a little sooner or 
later, as may be convenient. The tallest growers should be in the centre of the 
bed. This renders it necessary to plant them in rows lengthways of the bed, 
and not across it. This being determined upon, let the soil be levelled, then 
with a hoe draw a drill the length of the bed as nearly 2 inches deep as possible. 
As soon as the drill is drawn bring out all the tall growers, and plant them 
5 inches apart at the bottom of the drill, giving each a gentle pressure. When 
the row is finished thrust in at each end a strong stick to mark where the row 
of bulbs is when covered up. Cover up the bulbs by the aid of a short-toothed 
rake. After that let the soil on each side of the planted row be stirred up with 
a three-pronged fork Then set the line at the right distance from the centre 
(we mentioned that the beds should be 4 feet wide, which would allow 9 inches 
between each of the five rows, and 6 inches next the edging); the line then 
must be set at such a distance from the centre that the next row of bulbs will 
be exactly 9 inches apart from the centre one. Draw the drill the same depth 
as the first, and plant the next tallest flowers in it. Then mark the row with a 
stick at each end, and so proceed till the whole is finished ; the lowest growers 
will then be next the paths all round the bed. Each variety must be numbered. 
Early Cucumbers (C. S .).—You ought to have been more explicit in 
your inquiries with regard to the “ best time to start Cucumbers and Tomatoes 
for fruiting in March,” as so much depends upon the means at your command. 
Supposing you have a Cucumber house with the proper amount of top and 
bottom heat, the seed may be sown during the first week in January. It would 
germinate if sown earlier, but the seedlings obtained would, during the dull 
midwinter months, become drawn and weakly, and be more liable to be infested 
with red spiper and other insect pests than are those raised at the time named 
and grown without any check. The Cucumber seed may be sown singly in 
3 inch pots, using light loamy soil, and plunged in a brisk but not over-moist 
bottom heat, as excessive moisture, either from the bed or administered, will 
destroy the seed. The seedlings should receive as much light and air as possible, 
and will require to be lightly supported with stakeg. In order to have them as 
strong as possible at planting time, shift them into either 6-inch or 8-inch pots, 
and from these transfer to beds or heaps of soil previously prepared, so as to 
become thoroughly warmed, performing the operation in each instance before 
the plants are much root-bound. The subsequent treatment given being 
favourable, no difficulty ought to be experienced in obtaining fruit, say about 
the middle of March. It is a mistake, however, to force very hard or to crop 
young plants heavily, both being very weakening in effect and tending to 
shorten the duration of the crop, the ultimate gain thus being very doubtful. 
The most popular variety with the market growers is Rollisson’s Telegraph; 
and another very prolific and suitable variety is Kelway’s Paragon. 
Early Tomatoes {Idem ).—To have ripe Tomatoes in March you ought to 
have strong plants well and finally established in either beds, boxes, or large 
pots (giving the preference to the latter for early work) by the first week in 
January. These should be kept growing briskly, the pots being near to the 
pipes, and the temperature of the house ranging from 60° to 65° by night, and 
10° higher in the daytime. Train to single stems, rub out side shoots, carefully 
impregnate the first blooms, give abundance of liquid manure, and cut the fruit 
on the first signs of cracking, If these strong plants are not to be had, do not 
attempt to secure ripe fruit in March ; far better will it be to sow early in 
January, and thereby secure strong plants from which heavy crops may even¬ 
tually be taken during April and May. For treatment of these see reply to “ R. D.,” 
page 269 of this volume. Hathaway’s Excelsior and Earley’s Defiance are two very 
suitable varieties for the work. Conqueror is a very heavy cropping variety, 
but the colour, unfortunately, injuriously affects its sale. If, however, it is really 
imperative that ripe Tomatoes be had in March, we should advise the attempt 
being made with one of the smaller varieties, of which probably the best is Yick’s 
Criterion. From single plants of this variety fruited in 8-inch pots compara¬ 
tively heavy crops may be taken, which need not, and in your case should not, 
interfere with the growth of the main crop of heavier and more saleable varieties. 
Early in December, or even earlier, sow seed thinly in well-drained 6-inch pots, 
using light sandy soil and plunging in heat if possible till the seeds have 
germinated. Before the seedlings are much drawn transfer them to warm 
shelves near the glass, and when in rough leaf pot off singly in 3-inch pots, 
placing the plants down the sides of the pots and carefully filling in the soil up 
to the seed leaves. If returned to bottom heat they will more quickly recover, 
but should, as soon as this is found to be the case, be again placed on the shelves, 
the aim being to keep them sturdy. When well established shift them into the 
fruiting pots. The soil used may consist of two parts of turfy loam to one of 
well-decomposed manure, v'hich previous to using should be thoroughly warmed. 
From this time the best place to grow and fruit them is on the front staging 
near to hot-water pipes. Train to upright stakes, rub out side shoots as they 
appear, and stop beyond the third cluster of bloom. When the bloom is set give 
moderately strong liquid manure at each watering. These miniature varieties, 
are well adapted for growing on the end stages and back shelves of early vineries. 
Peach, and other forcing houses. 
Names of Fruit {F.D., South Wales). —The Pear is Caillot Rosat. (G. B. C.). 
—The Plum is Sandall’s, a variety much grown in the market gardens of Middle¬ 
sex. It certainly is not what it was intended for. (A. E.). —1, Waltham Abbey 
Seedling ; 2, Holland Pippin ; 3, Old Orange Pippin ; 4, Lewis’ Incomparable ; 
5, Norfolk Bearer; 6, Loan’s Peannan. (IF. N .).—Red Autumn Calville. 
{II. J. F.). —Tower of Glamis. 
Names of Plants {W.K.B.). —The spray was much crushed, but we think 
the Bouvardia is Humboldtii corymbiflora. B. jasminiflora has much larger 
flowers, at least when the plant producing them is well grown. (IF. C. B.) — 
1, Pleopeltis percussa; 2, Gymnogramma L’Herminieri ; 3, Platyloma rotundi- 
folia ; 4, Gymnogramma peruviana argyrophylla ; 5, Selaginella ceesia ; 6, Da- 
vallia dissecta elegans. {Newton, Bristol). —Tacsonia mollissima. (0. P.). —- 
1, Quite insufficient for identification ; 2, Fuchsia microphylla ; 3, Polystichum 
angulare ; 4, Probably Escallonia macrantha.but specimen very small. {G. B. C.). 
■ —1, An Aspleniuni, but the specimen was so very stunted and imperfect that 
its name could not be determined; 2, Adiantum macrophyllum. 
POULTRY, PIGEON, AND BEE CHRONICLE. 
ROTATIONS FOR CROPPING LIGHT SOILS. 
(Continued from page 3 38.) 
WE have referred to the rotation of cropping a light land chalk 
hill farm with water meadows, &c., attached, and calculated for 
keeping a large breeding flock of sheep. We will now consider 
a farm without meadows, and consisting of arable land only, but 
situated amongst the chalk hills. We will discuss the system 
of cropping adapted to it when cultivated with the view of main¬ 
taining a large flock of breeding ewes or of store wether sheep. 
To illustrate the rotation of cropping, &c., we will again describe a 
farm of 450 acres, and as there will be neither meadows or down 
land for the sheep to fall back upon at certain times of the year 
we must make it a four-course rotation, excepting 50 acres, which 
will be laid into Lucerne and Saintfoin ; 10 acres to be laid down 
with Lucerne for a permanency, and situated nearest to the farm 
premises ; also 40 acres to be laid into Saintfoin for four years, 
which will then be broken up for tillage, and exchanged for the 
same extent of land taken out of one of the Grass or Clover lains 
of the rotation. We have then to deal with 400 acres of arable 
land. 1st course, Wheat; 2nd, green crops and roots ; 3rd, Lent 
corn; 4th and last course, Clovers and Grass sown in the Lent 
corn. Now, one of the chief features of this rotation is the adop¬ 
tion of the growth of Lucerne and Saintfoin, which must be con¬ 
sidered practically as the substitute for meadows and down land. 
The first course will consist of 100 acres of Wheat, the prepara¬ 
tion for which will be described more particularly in the last 
course. The second course will also consist of 100 acres, 50 acres 
of which will be cropped with green fodder crops, such as Rye, 
Trifolium, Vetches, &c., followed by Swedes and common Tur¬ 
nips. The other 50 acres of the foulest land will be autumn- 
fallowed, so that the seed for root crops, especially Mangolds, 
may be drilled without spring ploughing—not only because the 
seed may be gathered earlier, but because the working of the 
scarifier only in the spring retains the moisture, so essential to the 
