380 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. c October 21 , isso. 
Beid at his residence near Boss. We do not know whether the Captain has 
seed for disposal, nor do we know from whom else seed cau be obtained. A 
letter directed as above would no doubt find its destination ; we do not know a 
more precise address. 
Climbing Roses for Cool House ( S. TJ. S., Walsall). —'You do not 
cay what colours you require, but the following three varieties will probably give 
you satisfaction :—Mardchal Niel, Gloire de Dijon, and Beauty of Clieshunt. 
Clematis Star of India (J. Lawson ).—This is an excellent variety, but by 
no means so “new” as you suppose. It was raised by Mr. Cripps of Tunbridge 
Wells, and was certificated in 18G7. It flowers in the autumn at the same time 
as C. Jackmanni. 
Pruning Coleuses (J. /Tope ).—The plants may be moderately pruned 
provided you have a house with a minimum temperature of 60° in which they 
can be yjlaced ; but if you have not such a heated structure, pruning would 
accelerate the decay of the branches and perhaps cause the death of the plants. 
Wholesale London Seedsmen ( E. J.).— Mr. Lcgerton's address is 
5, Aldgate, B.; Messrs. Hurst & Son, 152, Houndsditch, E.C.; Wrench & Sons, 
39. King William Street, E C. ; Mr. Cooper’s, 90, Southwark Street, E.C. ; 
G. Gibbs & Co., 26, Down Street, Piccadilly, W.; T. Gibbs & Co., 47, Half-moon 
Street, Piccadilly; Nutting & Sons, 60, Barbican, E.C. You will find several 
other addresses in the “Horticultural Directory,” which will very shortly be 
published. 
Tubs for Myrtles (T. A. B .).—We are unable to recommend a maker of 
these articles; but any intelligent carpenter could make square tubs, plain or 
ornamental. Those of large size should have stout corner pieces to act as legs, 
and the thickness of the sides must be determined by the size of the tubs. Pitch 
pine makes excellent tubs, which can be either stained or painted. Bound tubs 
of any size and pattern can be made by coopers, but the cheapest plan is to 
purchase paraffin casks and cut them in halves; these are very durable, and 
suitable for plants and shrubs. 
Quinces and their Uses (G. S .).—The fruit of the Quince you have sent 
us is less than one-fourth the size of a fully grown and ripe fruit, and is the 
product of a late summer, not an early spring blossom. Quinces are used in 
various ways. They are commonly used in very small quantities in Apple 
pies ; then there are Quince cakes. Quince cream, Quince marmalade, Quince 
jelly, Quince pudding, Quince tart, as well as comp6te of Quinces, syrup of 
Quinces, pickled Quinces, &c. But though their uses are so varied the fruit is 
not largely used, and one tree is generally sufficient in most moderate-sized 
gardens. The trees require no pruning, and when laden with large yellow fruit 
they are very ornamental. 
Lifting Vines (TV. F. M .).—Your Vines can no doubt be greatly improved 
by making a new border as you propose, and placing the roots about 6 inches 
from the surface ; but without seeing the old Vines we cannot state whether 
it would be preferable to replant them now, or obtain young Vines in pots and 
plant them in the spring. Cannot you obtain the aid of a practical gardener 
in your neighbourhood to inspect the Vines and advise you on the subject ? If 
you lift the Vines you should do so at once. Old Vines when lifted often pro¬ 
duce excellent Grapes, but young Vines eventually produce the finest bunches. 
Your proposed plan of making the border is good, but it will not be necessary 
to make it of the full width the first season. See what is said on this subject 
on page 227, the issue of September 9th. 
American Blight on Apple Trees (F. A).—The shoot yon have sent 
us is infested with this destructive insect (Aphis lanigera). All such shoots 
as the one before us, which is an unripe secondary growth produced after 
summer pruning, we should cut off at once and burn ; their removal now cannot 
possibly injure the trees, and you would quickly destroy thousands of insects. 
As soon as the leaves have fallen from the trees dissolve soft soap at the rate of 
5 or 6 ozs. to a gallon of water, and to each gallon of the solution add a wine- 
glassful of paraffin, and apply the mixture to every portion of the wood with a 
brush, forcing it with especial care into every crack or inequality in the bark 
where the insects lurk and pass the winter. By adopting this practice you will 
reduce considerably and possibly extirpate the pest. It does not matter which 
way you train the cordons—train them to the south. The angle you name is 
correct. The Durondeau is a very handsome and excellent Pear, and will 
succeed well on the aspect you name in most districts. Your other question 
shall be answered next week. 
Summer-pruning Fruit Trees ( G. S.). —The condition of your trees 
ought to prove whether your system of shortening the extremities of the shoots 
in summer is right or not. If your object is to have dwarf compact trees, and 
these are studded with blossom buds, your pruning will have proved correct. If 
large specimens are desired capable of producing a bushel or two of fruit each, 
then the extension shoots must not be shortened nearly so closely. Our plan is 
to let them grow until about the middle of August, and then pinch out the tips 
of those that exceed 18 inches in length, as growth made after that time seldom 
ripens. If trees are at all luxuriant your close mode of shortening the branches 
would not result in the production of fruit spurs unless root-pruning was also 
adopted. You may cut down your Oleander now, and in due time it will pro¬ 
duce fresh growth, which must have full exposure to light. 
Buffalo Horn. Manure {B. G., Fulham ).—You are quite right in your 
assumption that the value of horn shavings as manure has been long known, 
although the above fertiliser was only put prominently before the public two or 
three years ago by Mr. AVills. Twenty years ago a book by Dr. Lancaster on 
“The Uses of Animals in Delation to the Industry of Man” was published, 
which contains an instructive chapter on “ waste.” After referring to the use¬ 
fulness of various substances thus usually denominated, the author observes : 
“ Commerce aids in the profitable avoidance of ‘ waste.’ Forcibly was this 
enforced on our attention in what has so wrongly been styled ‘ that waste of 
water the Atlantic.’ We there fell in with a vessel, and when hailed as to here, 
where from, where to, and purpose, the reply was * From Miramichi to Belfast 
with buffalo tips.’ The world was circumnavigated that the tips of horns 
might be converted into handles, and their shavings would be mingled with the 
manure heap.” Horn shavings are valuable as manure because they slowly 
decompose and give out ammonia for a very long time. They also contain a 
small quantity of carbonate and phosphate of lime. 
Apples for Orchard (P. Gruel ).—We desire to give a reply that will be 
useful to you, and we do not feel that we can do so without more precise in¬ 
formation relative to your requirements. If you require as many varieties as 
possible without reference to their bearing qualities you will find them in any 
good nurseryman’s catalogue, with their period of use; but if you wish to grow 
those varieties that are the most profitable for sale,or for affording you a supply 
of good fruit for home use, you will err by growing “ all kinds of late Apples 
for kitchen and culinary purposes,” as those would number 150 varieties, many 
of which, though possessing some points of excellence, would not occupy the 
space so profitably as others. If yon will state the object you have in view and 
the number of trees you require we will make a selection of those varieties that 
we think will best answer your purpose. We presume by “late varieties” you 
mean those that will afford a supply of fruit from November till May. 
Podophyllum peltatum (7i. C., Kensington). —The plant to which you 
refer is included in the natural order Ranunculaceae, and is known as the May 
Apple and the American Mandrake. The medicinal substance Podophyllin is an 
extract from the dried rhizome and is employed as a purgative. The fruits 
when ripe are yellow and about the size and shape of an egg, being known in 
North America, of which the plant is a native, as Wild Lemons. 
The “ Cottage Gardeners’ Dictionary” (A. J. Long). — A new 
edition of this work is in preparation, and the publishers are endeavouring to 
have it ready for distribution early in 1881. 
Fruit Trees for Training to Walls (IF. IF).—For the south aspect 
Apricots: Oullins’ Early, Kaisha, and Moorpark, two of each ; and one Peach 
Apricot; May Duke and Governor Wood Cherries, with July Green Gage Plum. 
You may omit a Cherry, and have Green Gage Plum ; or if you want the 
south aspect all Apricots add to those named St. Ambroise (one) and Hems- 
kerk (two). South-east aspect :— Plums: Green Gage, Kirke’s, Jefferson, 
Coe’s Golden Drop, Denniston’s Superb, De Montfort, Guthrie’s Late Green, 
Transparent Gage, and Ickwortli Impdratrice, all for dessert ; for cooking, 
Early Prolific, Victoria, Prince Englebert, and AVLite Magnum Bonum. if 
these would be too many Plums substitute the Pears Jargonelle, Beurre Super- 
fin, Marie Louise d’Uccle, Marie Louise, Van Mons Ldon Leclerc, and Josephine 
de Malines. We should, however, keep the Plums and add a Cherry—viz., May 
Duke. South-west aspect -.—Pears: Jargonelle, Clapp’s Favourite, Williams’ 
Bon Chretien, Beurre Superfin, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Gratioli of Jersey, Marie 
Louise, Hacon’s Incomparable, Beurre Diel, Beurre Bachelier, Van Mons Ldon 
Leclerc. Glou Morceau, Josephine de Malines, and Bergamotte d’Esperen. Apples: 
Cox’s Orange Pippin, Ribston Pippin, Golden Pippin, and Cockle Pippin. 
North aspect:—Morello Cherry is the best, and bears more satisfactorily than 
any other. Jargonelle, AVilliams’ Bon Chretien, and Comte de Lamy Pears also 
succeed; with such Cherries as Empress Eugdnie, May Duke, and Late Duke ; 
and Plums—Mitchelson’s, Gisborne’s, Prince Englebert, and Victoria. 
Jerusalem Artichokes (M. A., Belfast). —These are greatly relished in 
many places cooked in various ways, but more especially in soups. Could the 
use of them be made popular, they would be no bad substitute with those who 
prefer a waxy Potato to a mealy one. They produce best when planted afresh 
every year in rows 4 feet apart, and 18 inches from each other in the row; but 
they will stand for years in the same ground, and afford plenty of produce, only 
the tubers will not be so regular. AA’e have never known disease to affect them, 
and we have scarcely ever seen the tubers interfered with, except by rats and 
pheasants. AVe have often been surprised that they have not been more planted 
in the open parts of covers and game preserves ; the stems would give shelter, 
and the roots abundance of food. 
Plum Tree Unfruitful (8. P., Notts). —Your Green Gage would, no 
doubt, be very much improved by taking it up, bringing the roots nearer the 
surface, and giving it a little fresh soil to grow in. The present is a good time 
to do it. First unnail the tree from the wall, only leaving a few of the principal 
branches secured to the wall to prevent them from being broken. Dig a trench 
all round the tree 2 feet deep, or as deep as the roots, and about 6 feet from 
the stem ; then with a fork work the soil carefully away from the roots, always 
drawing the fork towards the outside of the trench. AA’hen the soil has been 
taken away to within a foot or so of the stem the whole may be carefully lifted 
up. If the tree is a heavy ore it must be lifted by means of a lever. This should 
be done gradually, aud as the trer is raised soil should be placed beneath it. In 
raising the tree see that the brauches that are left fastened to the wall are suffer¬ 
ing no injury. As sron ns the tree has been raised to the desired height spread 
the roots carefully out, sprinkle some fine soil in amongst them, and frequently 
shake them with a small pointed stick so that the soil may become settled 
about them, taking care to keep the points of the roots the lowest. As soon as 
all the roots have been properly covered with soil give the tree a good soaking 
of water, then add more soil, and finish the operation with a thick mulching of 
rotten manure. If the weather remains dry syringe the tree two or three times 
daily. The roots will at once commence growth, aud the crop next year will not 
be injured if the operation is performed with care. 
Trees and Conifers for Screen (An Old Subscriber, Plymouth). —There 
is only one Poplar that will be suitable for “ planting close to a wall with a row 
of Conifers a few feet in front of them,” and that is the Lombardy Poplar 
(Populus fastigiata). This is a quick and very close grower, and planted 6 feet 
apart would soon form a close hedge and require no pruning. You could take 
off the tops of the trees at any height required. The Black Italian Poplar 
(P. monilifera) is perhaps the quickest grower of all trees. The rate of growth 
in good soil near London is thirty and upwards in seven years. It bears cutting 
well, but much labour would be involved in preventing it injuring the Conifers 
a “ few feet in front of it,” and also encroaching on your neighbours’ property 
over the wall. Poplars can be removed when of large size, but no one could say 
that trees 20 feet in height would be safely transplanted and grow freely without 
seeing them, or knowing the nature of the soil in which they are growing and 
the treatment to which they have been subjected. The distance for planting can 
only be determined, for your purpose, by the size of the trees when planted. 
This species is eight or ten days later in producing its leaves in the spring than 
the Lombardy Poplar. If your space is as limited as your letter implies we 
think the tree last named will be the most suitable for your purpose, and as 
quick growth is an object the soil should be well trenched to a depth of 2 feet, 
and as wide as possible. Cupressus macrocarpa grows much more rapidly than 
C. Lawsoniana, but large specimens of the former do not transplant well. Small 
examples planted 6 feet apart in good soil would soon form a hedge 20 feet high 
that would require no clipping. Lobb’s Arbor-Vitae (Thuja Lobbiana) is a 
beautiful hardy free-growing Conifer—close, dense, and elegant. It is highly 
suitable for a screen, aud very ornamental. AA r e doubt if any other Conifer would 
answer your purpose better than this ; although it does not grow so rapidly as 
Cupressus macrocarpa it is not injured by the most severe weather. 
Burning Soil (T. A. Bowdon). —If you can burn the soil that you have 
hitherto failed to render fertile, you will no doubt render it immediately and 
permanently productive. AA r e know of no greater success in burning soil than 
that of Mr. David Thomson of Drumlanrig, when he was gardener at Dyrham 
Park near Barnet, and his process was described as follows, and is reprinted 
from page 17 of our little manual “ Manures for the Many.”—“As soon as a 
quarter in the garden became vacant, a fire or two were started, according to 
the size of the quarter. AVhen only one fire was required, it was started in the 
middle of the quarter. The site for the fire was first trenched to the depth of 
2 feet 9 inches, turning the top spit (which had through a long course of years 
