JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
39G 
[ October 28, 1880. 
Hartford on 'the 17tb, Gravesend on the 17th and 18th, and 
Bristol on the same date as the last-mentioned. In all bountiful 
provision is made for Chrysanthemums, the first and the last also 
representing plants and fruit largely, and fine Shows are expected. 
On the 17th and 18th ult. the Finsbury Park Amateur Society 
will hold their first exhibition, which, judging from the influential 
patronage accorded them, may be expected to be satisfactory. 
On the same dates the Borough of Hackney Society will hold an 
exhibition at the Royal Aquarium, Westminster. Liberal prizes 
are offered, including no less than five silver cups, two being given 
by the Aquarium Society. The other prizes vary from £2 to 5,?., 
sufficient in most instances to give hopes of a close competition. 
The Shrewsbury Show will be held on the 18th. The schedule 
includes classes for fruit as well as Chrysanthemums, the prizes 
being generally good and the classes “open to all.” 
The Kingston Society will, it is announced, hold their Exhibi¬ 
tions on the 18th and 19th ult., the schedule including the usual 
liberal array of prizes. Two timepieces and a watch, value each 
four guineas, constitute the first prizes in three of the chief 
classes, but the principal interest of the Exhibition will centre in 
the competition for the champion challenge vase, value twenty- 
five guineas. It will be remembered that Mr. Harding, gardener 
to J. D. Galpin, Esq., Birstal House, Putney Heath, was the 
winner last year, followed by Mr. Moorman, gardener to Miss 
Christy, Coombe Bank, Kingston ; and Mr. McPherson, gardener 
to S. Page, Esq., St. Leonard’s Lodge, Surbiton. That the com¬ 
petition will be as close this year is confidently expected. The 
Croydon Show will take place on the 19th and 20th ult., but there 
is nothing in the schedule to call for special notice. The Maid¬ 
stone Chrysanthemum and Fruit Society will hold their Exhibition 
on the 19th ult. Thirteen classes are devoted to Chrysanthemums 
and nine to fruit, of which the display is sure to be very good. 
Three silver cups are offered in the former classes, one being 
valued at ten guineas, in an open class for thirty-six blooms of 
incurved large-flowered varieties. This will no doubt induce 
good competition. The Liverpool Horticultural Association will 
hold their first Exhibition of Chrysanthemums, fruits, &c., on the 
23rd and 24th ult. Liberal prizes are offered, and a satisfactory 
exhibition may be expected. The success of the Chrysanthemum 
Show at Richmond last year has induced the Society to hold 
another this year, which will take place on the same dates as the 
Liverpool Show. The Northampton Chrysanthemum Society will 
hold their Exhibition on the same date as the above. Four cups 
are offered valued at three guineas each. The Show last year 
was an excellent one. The latest Show of which we have any 
information is that of the Birmingham Society, which takes place 
on the 24th and 25th ult. Provision is made for the exhibition of 
plants, fruit, and flowers, in addition to the Chrysanthemums. 
Among the latter the chief class is for nine specimens (which are 
usually very fine at Birmingham), the first prize being a silver 
cup value £5. 
Such is a brief review of what may be regarded as the chief 
items of interest to the grower or exhibitor of Chrysanthemums 
as regards the schedules of the Societies, and indicates what may 
be expected to be the most important points in the forthcoming 
contests. 
TRANSPLANTING FRUIT TREES. 
The present is the best time in the year to transplant fruit 
trees. About this time last year I shifted some hundreds, and all 
of them have done well since, although some of them might have 
been thought too old to be transplanted successfully. Indeed 
some were quite past bearing fruit, and they were shifted with 
the view of putting fresh life into them, and this has been done to 
a great extent. Trees of many kinds of fruits were so treated, 
such as Peaches, Apricots, Plums, Cherries, Apples, Pears, Goose¬ 
berries, and Currants. 
Before beginning to shift a tree a large heap of soil was pre¬ 
pared as fresh material for the roots. This consisted of good loam 
and lime rubbish, with a little decayed cow dung for the Peach 
trees ; loam and dung for the others ; and a stronger mixture still 
for the Gooseberries and Currants. To the loam for the whole of 
them was added a good quantity of road scrapings, which con¬ 
tained horse droppings and lime, as the roads about here arc 
formed of limestone, a material which may be used with advan¬ 
tage for all fruit trees. I do not give any exact proportion of the 
material, as in this I am always guided by the quality of the loam 
or health of the trees. This, I think, is best, as soils and situations 
differ so much that we must be our own guides in such matters. 
In wet soils and low situations draining material should be at 
hand. Broken bricks are most suitable, but failing them rough 
ashes answer the purpose well. When it can be managed the 
trees should not be replaced on the precise spot where they have 
been growing previously, but a few feet or yards from it. This 
allows the hole to be made and the site prepared before disturb¬ 
ing the tree, and it may then be transferred to its new quarters 
without loss of time. 
In planting a tree an attempt should always be made to raise it 
above the ordinary level of the ground. This is one of the great 
secrets in successful fruit-tree culture. Plant a tree deep and all 
hope of its doing well may be abandoned. Many fruit trees 
become cankered, defective in growth, and unfruitful owing to 
their being planted too deeply. The holes should be made of a 
size proportionate to the dimensions of the tree. No hole should, 
however, be less than 6 feet square. The soil must be taken out 
to the depth of 3 feet at the least, and then 18 inches of drainage 
should be placed in. Over this put turves grassy side down¬ 
wards, and then fill up to the level of the ground with the soil 
which has been prepared for planting. It should be beaten or 
trodden quite firmly, and then it is ready for the reception of the 
roots. 
In lifting the trees a trench should be thrown out all round 
some 2 or 3 feet from them. The soil may then be gradually re¬ 
moved from the roots, digging inwards and under with a fork, 
and all the thick fibreless roots can be cut well in with a sharp 
knife. A small ball of roots and soil must be retained round the 
base of the stem, and in this form it should be placed on the new 
ground. More of the fresh soil should then be worked amongst 
the roots, afterwards adding plenty of it all round so as to form a 
firm compact mound. This should all be done when the soil is 
dry and in good working order, when it can be trodden firmly 
round the tree. As the planting of each tree is finished a strong 
stake may be driven into the soil a few inches from the stem, and 
some part of the branches or stem must be made secure to this 
by means of a strong hay or straw rope. Until the roots have 
taken firm hold of the soil the wind must be prevented from 
shifting the roots in any way. This must be observed most par¬ 
ticularly, as no tree that is newly planted will thrive if the wind 
disturbs it. To finish operations about 3 inches of half-decayed 
manure can be spread over the mound, and may be allowed to 
remain on until it has decayed into the soil. 
These remarks apply to all fruit trees, but of course those 
planted against the walls require no stakes to support them. 
Few roots will be made after this time until the spring. Trees 
transplanted now should not be pruned until January or 
February, but where very large trees are transplanted some of 
the largest of the branches may be taken off. As a rule large 
trees are better cut-in when they arc shifted, as the young growth 
they make afterwards is fruitful and satisfactory. The result of 
this work will be shown a little in the next season, but it is in 
subsequent years that it will be most apparent, when healthy 
growth of a moderately strong character and plenty of fruit buds 
will well repay all outlay. 
As illustrating the good results which follow such work I may 
say that I have some very handsome standard Cherry trees in the 
garden. For years previous to this season they have made an 
enormous amount of wood, and never matured any fruit. Last 
autumn I had them lifted and replanted in the manner indicated 
above. Last season they bloomed freely, set and ripened more 
fruit than they had done for years, and all the wood they have 
made this season are only little spurs of the fine fruit buds. 
The stations for Gooseberry and Currant bushes do not require 
to be so carefully made as for other trees. Plenty of manure and 
no drainage suits them. Out of many scores of bushes shifted 
last autumn I did not lose half a dozen. Many were very old, 
and yet this season they fruited remarkably well.— A Kitchen 
Gabdenee. 
ADIANTUM CAPILLUS-VENERIS vab. CORNUBIENSE. 
Of the five or six forms of Adiantum Capillus-Veneris none 
exceeds in beauty the remarkably elegant variety here illustrated 
(fig. a), which bears a nearer resemblance to that handsome 
Maidenhair Fern, A. farleyense, than any other hardy Fern. 
It was found near the cutting of the St. Ives (Cornwall) rail¬ 
way about 1874 by Mr. Trevithick, and named A. Capillus- 
Veneris var. cornubiense by J. Tyerman, Esq., of Tregony. At 
first it was supposed to be a two-year-old seedling of the typical 
species (the fertile and stertile pinules of the species, A. Capillus- 
Veneris, being represented at b in the engraving) which is found at 
Tintagei, which, however, never produces fronds the same size the 
third year or afterwards as it does the second year, whereas this 
is constant to its size. Too much cannot be said in favour of this 
grand acquisition to our hardy Ferns. The pinnules are nearly 
palmate, very deeply cut, sometimes into twelve or thirteen 
