November ii, 1880. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
445 
The Camellias were in good health and well set with buds. I 
noticed on the roof of the Camellia house a large plant of Tac- 
sonia Yan-Volxemi bearing hundreds of its handsome flowers, 
and a quantity of fruit in all stages of development. I have 
never seen this Tacsonia in such fine condition ; its ripe fruit may 
be used for dessert by those who prefer fruit of a pronounced 
acidulated character. I also remarked at the front of one of the 
Teach cases a batch of the brilliant Lobelia cardinalis. 
The ribbon border in the kitchen garden was very beautiful, 
the lines being formed in the following order commencing next 
the path — Viola lutea, Y. Perfection, Pelargonium Waltham 
Seedling, Dactylis glomerata, Dahlia Zelinda, and the back row 
consisted of Tritoma Uvaria, Hollyhocks, and Dahlias of taller 
growth placed alternately ; the border viewed from either end had 
a most charming effect. There are beds in another part of this 
garden devoted to a few old-fashioned flowers, such as Pentstemons, 
Carnations, Mignonette, Nemophilas, Candytuft, Sweet Williams, 
Calceolaria amplexicaulis, Pansies, &c. A few yards further on 
and just outside the dressed grounds is the dell, the descent into 
which is by rough steps and well-worn narrow paths. The beauty 
of this spot amply repays a visit where Lastreas and Pterises, 
Athyriums, and Scolopendriums, Campanulas, Brambles, &c., all 
grow and commingle in natural luxuriance. The quietness of the 
place suggests the spot for reflection and repose. Returning to 
the nearest part of the dressed grounds a subterraneous passage 
and a bridge of a carriage way lead to the flower garden at the 
front of the house. The principal beds and chain borders were 
filled with the usual kinds of plants, and looked as pretty as could 
be wished.—J. U. S. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
The planting of fruit trees should be followed up as the condition 
of the soil permits, for from the superabundant rain strong soils can 
scarcely be planted with advantage. If the weather continues unfa¬ 
vourable it is better to defer planting until spring, otherwise autumn 
planting is preferable. The weather has also been unsuited for 
other work in connection with fruit trees, especially root-pruning, an 
operation that is best performed before the soil has quite lost the heat 
imparted to it by the sun. Careful root-pruning or lifting the roots 
of over-luxuriant and consequently unfruitful trees is beneficial, 
while weakly trees may be restored to a healthy condition by having 
the roots brought nearer the surface, and encouraged by supplying 
suitable soil, such as turfy loam, in which they can be laid. If 
the soil be heavy a portion of old mortar rubbish, road scrapings, or 
other gritty material may be added with advantage, but where the 
soil is light heavy loam and marl may be employed. In selecting 
young trees for planting it is of the greatest importance to obtain 
varieties which are known to succeed well in the locality, as there are 
both Apples and Pears which are excellent in the north and midland 
counties, but not satisfactory in the south, and vice versa. Pruning of 
Apple, Pear, Plum, and Cherry trees should now be proceeded with 
whenever the weather is favourable, so as to have work of this kind 
in as forward a state as practicable, instead of deferring such work 
until spring, when other work will be pressing. Pruning Gooseberry 
and Currant bushes should be proceeded with as opportunity offers, 
and a dressing of manure may be pointed into the soil. Fig trees 
against walls often suffer in severe winters if left unprotected. They 
should therefore be unfastened from the wall, the branches being 
tied up loosely in bundles and covered with clean straw and mats, or 
the trees may be thatched with straw or bracken, without re¬ 
moving the branches from the wall; but in either case the border 
containing the roots must be well mulched with littery manure. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
reaches and Nectarines .—The whole of the earliest forced trees 
having been properly dressed, the branches secured to the trellis, 
and the house thoroughly cleaned, the latter may be closed at the 
middle of the month, but air must be freely admitted in mild weather 
or when the temperature is over 50®. Do not employ fire heat except 
to exclude frost, as the slower the trees are excited the stronger will 
be the blossoms. The inside border must be made thoroughly moist 
by an application of water, or in the case of weakly trees of liquid 
manure, and it will be advantageous to render it tepid. The outside 
border must be well protected with litter or dry fern, having wooden 
shutters or tarpaulin on the top to throw off wet and prevent the 
materials from being blown about. Trees intended to be started 
early in the year should have all necessary dressing, cleaning the 
house and keeping it as cool as possible. The lights may remain off 
uDtil severe weather, as this will insure complete rest for the trees, 
and prevent the undue excitement which not unfrequently occurs 
when the roof lights are fixed. Trees in succession and late houses 
are retaining their foliage longer than usual, although the wood is 
apparently ripe and the buds prominent and abundant; but no further 
delay should take place in lifting and replanting, it being important 
that these operations be completed promptly after the wood is suffi¬ 
ciently ripened. The trees will then soon be ready for the final 
pruning—a very insignificant affair, as with proper disbudding, and 
allowing only those shoots to grow for future bearing that can be 
fully exposed to light and air, there is little need for the knife at the 
final winter thinning. We have not shortened a shoot for many 
years of Peach or Nectarines grown under glass, and the shoots 5 to 
0 feet in length will afford a fruit at every foot length to near the 
point without any appreciable difference in the size or quality. The 
practice of cutting back the shoots to 10, 15, or 18 inches at most 
is now fast falling into disuse. The great point in Peach culture 
is the thorough exposure of the growth to the maturing influences of 
sun and air. 
Figs .—Trees in pots intended to furnish ripe fruit in April should 
be at once placed in position—pillars of loose bricks being erected to 
stand the pots on, so as to bring them up to the required height in 
the pit. A good body of fermenting Oak or Beech leaves must be 
introduced between the pedestals and brought up around the base 
of the pots, but the heat there and at the sides of the pots must 
not exceed 75°, replenishing the leaves from time to time to 
maintain the bed at the proper level. The fermenting material will 
economise fuel, produce a moist genial atmosphere as well as mild 
bottom heat for the roots, and a rooting medium highly favourable 
to the swelling-off of the crop. If the trees are in small pots they 
may be placed on the surface of the bed, and as the heat declines 
plunge them. The temperature should be kept artificially at 55° by 
day and 50° at night, ventilating freely at 65°. Damping will only be 
necessary on fine days. Trees in succession houses should, when 
leafless, receive attention in pruning, an operation requiring some 
judgment. Trees with the roots restricted to small borders, if at¬ 
tention is given during growth to stopping and thinning the shoots, 
will need little pruning, whilst those that have a good run of 
trellis and the roots not so restricted will usually require a good 
thinning at the upper part of the trellis annually. Remove all 
elongated spurs, reserving where desirable those which are short- 
jointed and fruitful. The trees should after pruning be loosed from 
the trellis and washed with a brush, taking care not to injure the 
embryo fruit, thoroughly cleaning and if necessary painting the house. 
Point over the border lightly with a fork and remove the loose 
material, giving a top-dressing of manure about 3 inches thick. If 
the trees have been lifted the removal of the surface soil will not be 
necessary. The houses should be freely ventilated at all times except 
during frost. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Mignonette .—This to do well in the winter season requires a light 
situation, otherwise it becomes weak. The plants intended for early 
flowering must be regularly tied up, placing neat stakes to the prin¬ 
cipal shoots. Water carefully, affording supplies only when necessary, 
providing those flowering or well advanced with a night temperature 
of 45°, and 50® in the daytime. Succession and late-flowering plants 
should have plenty of air, and no more water than will keep them 
from flagging, too much water and a close atmosphere being destruc¬ 
tive to the plants. 
Show Pelargoniums .—Keep show varieties as near the glass as 
possible, affording them plenty of air. Have them as dry at the roots 
as is consistent with their safety, to prevent their making sappy 
growth, over-luxuriance not being nearly so productive of bloom as 
