JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ November 11, 1880. 
446 
solidified growth. Tie out the shoots neatly as they lengthen, and 
destroy aphides. 
NOTES ON VILLA AND SUBURBAN GARDENING. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Laying-in Broccoli .—After having twice successively lost the 
greater portion, and in some instances the whole, of the Broccoli 
crops during the past severe winters, many will he inclined to take 
some precautions against a recurrence of the destruction. This is 
all the more necessary seeing what coarse succulent growth has been 
made by the Broccoli and other members of the Brassica family this 
season. The part most susceptible of injury by frost in the Broccoli 
are the long exposed stems ; protect these, and the number of fatalities 
will be considerably diminished if not altogether prevented. There 
are several ways of doing this, all of which, however, will materially 
reduce the size of the heads ; but then small Broccoli are better than 
none—many, indeed, prefer small heads. The most laborious plan, 
but which is recommended especially when the plantations are much 
scattered about, is to lift the whole with as good balls of earth about 
the roots as possible, and to bed them all in together where they can 
be conveniently and roughly protected. The site selected should be 
perfectly open, and if the soil be at all poor should have a quantity 
of decayed manure worked-in as the process goes on. Commence by 
first opening a rather deep and sloping trench, then lay in the plants 
so as to face'either the north or west rather closely, and to such a 
depth as to insure their being buried up to the crowns, with the soil 
thrown from the next trench. The rows of plants should be well 
up together, but the crowns ought not to overlap. The last trench 
opened to be filled with the soil wheeled away from the first made. 
The roots should have the soil with the manure, should this' also be 
used, packed rather firmly about them, and into this they will soon 
spread. The advantages of bedding together is that it admits of the 
crowns being also protected with bracken, rough litter, or other light 
material should severe frost appear imminent. Yeitch’s Autumn and 
Snow’s Winter Broccolis are much liable to injury by frosts, the 
former variety especially ; and some or all of these may with advan¬ 
tage be bedded-in, either in the open ground or in large frames, and 
be protected with mats or lights as the case may be. The rows of 
other varieties, if those in charge are dubious about the wisdom of 
lifting, ought at any rate to be heeled over where growing, the only 
notable exceptions being Osborn’s White and similarly dwarf-grow¬ 
ing varieties. Commencing at the northern side of a row, take 
out a large spit from near the first plant, distributing this where the 
plant will be laid, then thrust in the spade to its full depth on the 
opposite side, and about 9 inches from the plant, and steadily bring 
the handle forward so as to force the head of the plant on to the 
little mound of soil previously formed. Work the surrounding soil 
up to the ball, then take another spit of soil from the front of the 
plant next in the row, and with this cover the stem of the previously 
moved plant, going on in this manner to the end of each row. In 
this instance the check to the growth is less perceptible, a good ball 
of earth being easily moved with the roots. Rapid thawing is very 
injurious, and it is to prevent this that the plants are made to slope 
to the north and away from the direct rays of the sun. 
Cauliflowers .—Any of these that have formed heads may be lifted 
and bedded-in in an open shed, or be hung up in a cellar, and in either 
instance will keep for some weeks. Much injury has already been 
done to them by frosts, and now that the winter has apparently set 
in no risks should be run by leaving them to grow to their full size 
before lifting. The autumn-sown plants pricked-out in boxes or 
frames should not require much protection for some time, and ought 
to have the lights off them on all fine days, and plenty of air at other 
times in order to prevent them making much delicate growth. 
Lettuces. —These, again, that are to be wintered in frames should be 
kept as hardy as possible. They are really hardier than many are 
aware, and the market gardeners in the south have during the past 
month put out large breadths, principally of hardy G-reen Cos 
varieties, with every confidence in their power to withstand any kind 
of weather that may be experienced during the winter. Luxuriant 
growth is quickly damaged by frost, but this may easily and should 
be checked by transplanting. They require to be planted rather 
firmly. 
GREENHOUSES AND FRAMES. 
Chinese Primulas .—These are now commencing to brighten the 
greenhouses and conservatories. To bring out their colours and to 
strengthen the trusses of bloom give them a light warm position (a 
swing shelf near the glass suits them in this respect), and weak liquid 
manure occasionally. Much moisture about the roots and a low 
temperature is very likely to cause them to canker at the collar, this 
being followed by a loss of the lower leaves and ultimately of the 
plants. They must not, however, be allowed to become dust dry, the 
secret of success being to give a thorough watering when dry, regular 
or daily driblets doing the mischief. 
Persian Cyclamen .—Much of the foregoing also applies to these. 
They should, at all events till they are nearly at their best, be either 
arranged in groups on a light airy stage, or be placed on a shelf near 
the glass. If in the front rows among the ordinary occupants of the 
house they are very liable to become spindly, weak, and insect- 
infested. 
Zonal Pelargoniums .—Sturdy plants both of the single and semi¬ 
double flowering varieties that have been specially prepared are now 
very effective. Keep them in a dry, open, warm position, and they 'will 
continue flowering for a long time; and do not supply water too 
freely, as that will induce strong growth at the expense of the bloom. 
Standards are really the best for winter flowering, simply because of 
their being well elevated and exposed, causing the formation of most 
sturdy and floriferous growth. 
Browallia elata .—Plants of this are now at their best, the light 
sprays of small bright blue flowers being very effective among the 
Pelargoniums and Salvia splendens. When cutting the Browallia, 
and also the Salvias for vases, cut over a whole plant at a time, 
which will induce them to push up a second crop of bloom. They 
will also be encouraged in this by an occasional use of liquid manure. 
If a genial temperature is maintained with the help of a little fire 
heat, so as to prevent the temperature from falling below 55° in the 
daytime and from 45° to 50° by night, all the foregoing will bloom 
much more freely, and other kinds will be forwarded considerably. 
Solanum Capsicastrum ought also to have the benefit of a little fire 
heat to properly ripen their fruit. Tepid water should always be 
used in a warm house. 
Cinerarias and Calceolarias .—These will still thrive in frames, but 
must be carefully protected from frosts. Perhaps the best place for 
them now is on a cool bottom well away from the hot-water pipes 
(the latter especially will do well on shelves near to the glass), in a 
house where no fire heat is given beyond enough to keep out frost. 
Any Calceolarias yet in seed pans may be potted off and others be 
shifted on before they are much rootbound, or otherwise they will 
flower prematurely. A few of the latest Cinerarias may yet receive 
another shift; they are sometimes very useful in 5-inch pots. Drain 
the pots carefully and use rather light loamy soil. Avoid shading 
either kind with other plants, and also crowding, and attend well to 
the watering. 
Violets and Auriculas thrive under much the same conditions as the 
preceding, crowding and fire heat being injurious to both. Do not 
allow them to become dry at the roots, and pick off all decaying 
leaves. 
Fuchsias .—Old plants that have flowered, and which are required 
to bloom early, should now be partially dried off, but they must 
not be allowed to become dust dry or they will not start freely. 
Place them where they will be cool but safe from frost, and not, as is 
often the case, beneath stages exposed to the drips from other plants. 
Plants from cuttings struck in August should now be shifted into 
0 or 7-inch pots, and be placed near the glass in a house with a tem¬ 
perature of 45° to 50°. Tie up and stop the leading shoots according 
to the habit of the variety. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Thomas Laxton, Bedford .—List of New Peas. 
Francis and Arthur Dickson & Sons, The Upton Nurseries, Chester. 
—Catalogue of Forest and Ornamental Trees. 
Dickson & Robinson, 12, Old Millgate, Manchester .—Catalogue of 
Boses. 
