November 18, 1880. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 459 
tion here, and in the one named above we have a companion for 
it exactly similar in habit, but with abundant and neatly-formed 
white flowers. For greenhouse or conservatory decoration in April 
and May it is invaluable, especially when grown in 48-size pots. 
A first-class certificate was awarded for it at the Royal Botanic 
Society’s Show on the 9th of May in the present year. 
Eeythrina Parcelli (Bull).—Coral Trees are usually grown 
for their brilliantly coloured flowers ; but the species under notice, 
though also bearing showy flowers, is chiefly remarkable for its 
finely variegated foliage. It is not strictly a novelty, for it was 
sent out by Mr. Bull in 1874, but it is not at present so well 
known as it deserves to be. As a stove plant it is surpassed 
by few in distinctness and effectiveness, and being of vigorous 
growth it is well suited for arranging in the centre of a group or 
bed. For some time past a good specimen has been notable in 
the stove at Kew, very satisfactorily indicating the decorative 
value of the plant. The variegation consists in the midrib and 
lateral veins of the rhomb-shaped leaflets being of a bright yellow 
colour, the remaining portion being a deep green tint. The three 
leaflets that form each leaf are rather distantly placed, and are 
bent downwards slightly, imparting somewhat of a pendulous 
appearance to them. Plenty of heat, a light position, and a good 
compost of loam, leaf soil, and sand, with abundance of water 
during growth, are the principal cultural requirements of the 
plant. 
Anthurium WarocqueANUM (Veitch).—As regards beauty 
of foliage this species of Anthurium is equal to any in cultivation, 
indeed when in good condition I consider that it excels the majority. 
The leafstalks rise to the height of about 2 feet; they are curved 
at the apex, the blade of the leaf being frequently a yard in 
length, and turned point downwards, so that they are vertical, 
with the deeply heart-shaped base uppermost, and the blade 
tapering gradually down to the point. The colour is a peculiar 
but beautiful deep green, the surface possessing a fine velvety 
gloss; that, together with the lighter-coloured distinctly-marked 
veins, constitutes the chief attractions of the plant. Like others 
of the genus its home is in tropical South America, Messrs. Yeitch 
having obtained it from New Granada a few years since. Both 
the Royal Horticultural Society and the Royal Botanic Society 
have signified their appreciation of its merits by the award of 
first-class certificates. Though not very difficult to grow there 
are a few little points in its culture that need special attention, 
and therefore the following hints may be of service to those who 
have just obtained or are about to purchase a plant and are in 
doubt as to the best mode of treatment, especially in potting. 
In the first place, it must be remembered that all Anthuriums are 
superficial rooters, so that a great depth of soil is not only un¬ 
necessary but positively injurious. Wide and deep pans are the 
best for these rather delicate species, and quite one-third of their 
depth should be occupied by the drainage, consisting of carefully 
arranged potsherds, as it is very important that there be no stag¬ 
nation. A little moss may be placed over this, and then some of 
the compost—good fibrous peat, charcoal, sand, and sphagnum well 
mixed ; carefully place the plant in the pan, filling up with the 
compost several inches above the rim of the pan and surfacing 
with fresh moss. A few light sticks may be needed to render the 
leaves and stem firm. A moist stove or a house devoted to tropical 
aquatic plants suits it admirably, abundance of water being re¬ 
quired at the roots during growth, but syringing the foliage must 
be avoided if possible. A shady position is also needed, as the 
leaves are quickly injured by exposure to the sun.—R. L. 
ROOT PRUNING. 
Under the above heading I desire to offer a few remarks. 
Those having fruit trees making vigorous growth and perfecting 
few or no fruit buds, will possibly have selected them to undergo 
a course of root-pruning, with a view to improving them. I am 
of opinion that this is often carried to the extreme, and instead 
of trees of moderate growth and full of fruit buds, we possess 
plants full of fruiting spurs and of insufficient vigour to carry a 
crop to perfection, through the undue use of the knife among the 
roots. 
To obviate this, a trench should be taken out as near as possible 
at the extremity of the roots (a glance at the branches will 
probably be the best guide to determine this). Fork-out the soil, 
and carefully preserve all roots from 3 to 7 feet from the stem of 
the tree. Let them be placed so that they will not be injured, 
sprinkled with water, and covered with a mat until they can 
again be laid in the soil. If the drainage is defective, let it be 
attended to, as this is the main point in the cultivation of tree or 
plant. The soil it is desirable to use for this purpose is not always 
procurable, so that which is at hand must be made to suit the 
tree as nearly as possible. If it can be obtained, a good sound 
fibrous loam, brick and lime rubbish, and a few crushed bones 
will be found a suitable compost for most fruit trees. Cherries 
delight in a stronger soil, but they will succeed in the above. If 
the soil is light a small quantity of brick and lime rubbish will 
be sufficient. The soil should be made quite firm and rammed 
well up to the old ball. The roots should be laid level and in the 
position they occupied before as nearly as possible. Cut only the 
tips off the roots ; and if any portion of the root has been injured 
in lifting pare it off with a sharp knife, it will most likely emit 
roots from this point. 
By the above method I maintain that a fruit tree, however 
vigorous, receives a sufficient check to induce fruitfulness, and 
leaves enough strength in the root to allow the branches to make 
a moderate growth the following season, and so do away with the 
practice of cutting off half the roots to throw the tree into a state 
of fruitfulness and cause permanent injury. 
In another issue I will write on training fruit trees.— Robert 
D. Long. 
AMORPHOPHALLUS RIVIERI. 
I have had sent to me from Belgium some enormous tubers, 
as large as good-sized Turnips, but not at all like them, under the 
above name. I am told they only produce a leaf, no stem, as 
plants generally do, and that the plants are both curious and 
Fig. 83.—Amorphophallus Rivieri. 
ornamental. Can you give me any information about this plant? 
What shall I do with the tubers, and where and how should I 
grow the plants ? I shall be pleased to have instructions on 
the subject from any of your readers.— A Station Master. 
[As you live in the south of England you will be able to grow 
this singular plant, of which we are able to give an engraving, 
in your garden during the summer ; but in the autumn it should 
be taken under cover, and when the large and peculiar leaves 
have died store the tubers in sand, or if in pots place them in a 
dry position. Ordinary light garden soil suits it very well. The 
stem-like leafstalk is a very dark green in colour, curiously spotted 
and mottled with lighter tints. It flowers like the Arums, but 
the spathe is best removed as soon as noticed, for the odour is 
excessively fetid.] 
NOTES ON BIRDS. 
Shakespeare was right, as he always is about birds and 
flowers, when he wrote, “ The Blackbird had an orange tawny 
bill still the modern poet was equally right in writing of its 
having a black one. The one wrote of the old male bird, the 
other of the female or a young cock of the year. But whilst writ¬ 
ing on the subject I may mention that the bill colour of the male 
varies very much, and in some localities it is such a deep orange 
it is almost red, while in others it is of a deep golden yellow ; 
also there is much difference in the black colour of the bird 
