JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
466 
[ November 18, 1880. 
petals and splits all the way down, so that the “ ligulate ” or strap¬ 
shaped florets have only three petals. When they are rather broad 
they give rise to the incurved and reflexed forms, according as they 
show the under or upper side of the florets. When they are narrow 
the flower resembles the Japanese original form with slender tapering 
petals. On the other hand, if the tube elongates without much 
splitting we get the tasselled, quilled, and Dragon forms. In the 
first the tube splits only for a short distance into a broad flat piece at 
the end, in the second the border is reduced, but in the third enor¬ 
mously enlarged with the teeth increased in number. This last re¬ 
sembles the ray florets of the Cornflower, which is much enlarged 
under cultivation, and has its teeth increased in number also. 
WINTER PROTECTORS. 
If plants and crops which are liable to be injured by frost or 
severe weather have not already been covered up, or provision 
made for doing so directly it is required, no time should now be 
lost in making the necessary arrangements. At one time we were 
not very particular about this, as we could almost depend on being 
without severe frost to nearly the end of the year ; but times have 
changed, and protectors are wanted frequently as early as October, 
and we can hardly be said to be independent of them for at least six 
months in the year. Mats, woollen and other cloths, straw, hay, 
leaves, fern, and ashes, are some of the materials which may be used 
for protecting, and a good store of one or all should be at command 
according to the extent of covering to be done. Vegetables are 
not the least important of the crops to be protected. I am annually 
gaining knowledge and experience in the kitchen garden, and the 
impression is increased that if any gardener wishes to do credit to 
himself and give the highest satisfaction to his employer, the 
vegetable supply must be unlimited. There are a few, but very 
few, who have no demand on them in winter for vegetables, but 
the demand upon the majority is greater at that time, and, there¬ 
fore, protecting the crops so as to retain their high qualities and 
the quantity as well, is of the utmost importance. 
A good root shed is an actual necessity in all gardens. It may 
not be warmed artificially, but it should have a waterproof roof, 
and protectors should be used inside when necessary to exclude 
severe frost. Parsnips, Salsafy, and other roots are often left in 
the ground for the greater part of the winter. They keep very 
well under these circumstances, but they are better if covered to 
the depth of a few inches with coal ashes, short straw, hay, or 
leaves during severe frost; and it is very convenient if a number 
of them are lifted before the ground becomes frozen very hard 
and stored in the root shed for use. Besides this being very 
handy, it is satisfactory in many ways ; as although Parsnips, 
Salsafy, and Turnips come all right again when thawed after 
being frozen, they are not by any means so good when taken and 
thawed quickly immediately before cooking. 
Celery is another valuable winter crop, and it is also easily 
injured by frost. It is important to have it thoroughly protected 
early, because if once affected by frost it will fail to keep well 
afterwards, although the weather may become mild. A quantity 
of straw or fern placed closely round the neck of each plant and 
a little thrown over the top will be useful, but if more effectual 
protection can be employed so much the better. I have lately had 
a number of wood covers made that are excellent for protecting 
Celery. They are of various sizes, and resemble in shape little 
span-roofed houses. The great benefit of these is, that while they 
keep out much frost they allow no wet or snow to rest on the 
plants they cover ; and this is a great advantage, as so long as the 
leaves can be kept dry little loss will occur. Parsley, Spinach, 
and Celery may be protected by these wood covers. Cauliflower, 
Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, and other greens also need protecting, 
especially the first named. It is a good plan to examine the plants 
once or twice a week, and tie the leaves over the heads. Those 
large enough to cut may be lifted and placed close together in the 
root shed, or the heads may be cut off with a little of the stem 
attached, and by inserting this in damp sand in the root shed the 
head will remain good for some weeks. 
Lettuce and Endive must also be protected. If lifted now and 
placed in dry frames few will be lost. A flower pot inverted over 
each plant is also a good mode of protecting the plants from 
frost. Rhubarb, Seakale, and Asparagus should be covered over 
to the depth of a few inches with some manure. Plants in frames 
should be kept dry in the leaves, and plenty of straw or fern 
should be thrown over the frames in severe weather. Cuttings of 
Calceolarias and Pansies in beds near walls must have the same 
attention. Small shrubs of a tender character can be drawn 
together, tied, and then thatched round with straw or old mats. 
Any tender bush against a wall should be served in the same way. 
Bulbs and roots in the ground which may be injured by frost may 
be covered over with decayed manure. This is better for most 
plants than ashes. Fruit trees, Rose bushes, and all that have been 
lately transplanted may have a layer of manure over the roots. 
Glass houses are rarely protected outside. The greater the cold 
the more the fire heat employed ; but outside protectors might 
also be advantageously used in various ways. I especially refer 
to the large houses, on many of which in summer the shading 
material is on rollers ; but they are all taken away in winter, 
though in many instances I think they might be of more advan¬ 
tage in winter than summer, especially if a good thick material 
were employed. I have found a good covering outside during 
frost and snow keeps the temperature up better than nightly con¬ 
suming an extra hundredweight or two of coal.—A Kitchen 
Gardener. 
vO V/ORK/oi\theWEEK,. ' 
•jfe* / 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The present is a good time to effect any improvement in the 
various soils, especially those of a stiff adhesive character, which 
should be placed in ridges in order that as large a surface as possible 
may be exposed to atmospheric influence. Such soils will be perma¬ 
nently improved by the addition of ashes, charred vegetable refuse* 
and an occasional dressing of lime. Forking over heavy soils on dry 
frosty mornings is a capital means of pulverising them and securing 
a good tilth, but working during wet weather must not be practised. 
Light soils are not so much benefited by exposure, but no opportunity 
must be lost of improving them by the addition of such materials as 
marl, clay, or lime. Trenching is an important operation, and should 
always be performed with judgment, as to bring up a subsoil of 
clay or the “ brash ” of light or gravelly soil does not add to their 
fertility. After throwing up the good soil loosen that beneath with 
a pick, and leave it there for a time, bringing up a little at each 
subsequent trenching, increasing the depth of soil by stirring. In 
some very light soils winter digging is not advisable, except as a 
means of destroying annual weeds. 
Forcing Department .—In order to obtain a liberal supply of forced 
vegetables active operations will now be imperative ; and if such as 
Asparagus, Seakale, and Rhubarb have had their growths early 
developed and matured, the crowns will break freely and strongly 
with less forcing, and the produce will be finer. Early forcing is 
best effected by subjecting the plants to the heat of fermenting 
materials, especially in the case of Asparagus. Seakale, Rhubarb, 
and Chicory also succeed very well in the Mushroom house. For 
Asparagus pits are most suitable, having space for sufficient ferment¬ 
ing materials to maintain a temperature of 70° to 80°, with one or 
more hot-water pipes for securing top heat in severe weather. The 
pits must have moveable lights to admit of ventilation at suitable 
times. Asparagus may also be successfully forced in frames over 
dung beds. To ensure a supply at Christmas a bed composed of 
about half stable manure and leaves may now be prepared, rendering 
it firm and covering with 3 inches depth of light rich soil. When the 
heat does not exceed 808 nor is less than 70° the roots should be intro¬ 
duced, spreading them out and placing some rich soil amongst them, 
supplying water at the temperature of the bed, and then covering 
wich 2 or 3 inches of finely sifted spent tan or cocoa-nut fibre refuse. 
A temperature for the frame or pit of 60° to 65° is suitable. Intro¬ 
duce more roots of Rhubarb and Seakale to the Mushroom house, and 
where Chicory is employed for salad treat it similarly, placing roots 
in pots or plant them in rich soil. Supply tepid liquid manure as 
necessary to crops of the above. French Beans must have a light 
position and not a close stagnant atmosphere, but avoid cold draughts 
or the pods will be stunted. Make further occasional sowings 
according to the demand and space. Sow Mustard and Cress ac¬ 
cording to the demand. Potato sets for early forcing in pots or 
beds may be inserted in leaf soil for sprouting preparatory for plant¬ 
ing, a moderate heat being necessary to accelerate the process. 
Dwarf Peas are sometimes forced,but unless ample accommodation is 
at command in a light airy structure the return is not very satisfac- 
