December 9, 1880 . ] JOURNAL OF HORTICZj LTZj RE A A T) COTTAGE GARDENER. 533 
above which ventilate, allowing a free circulation when the tem¬ 
perature is above 55°. Employ no fire heat unless it is absolutely 
necessary, and even then be sparing, as too much in the early stages 
is fatal to the prospect of a crop of fruit. 
FORCING HOUSE. 
The demand for flowers for indoor decoration has greatly increased 
of late years, the gardener often experiencing much difficulty in 
keeping pace with the demand ; and though many plants can be 
brought into bloom in the stove and are attractive, yet some are 
totally unsuited for cutting and decorative purposes, as they cannot 
be removed to the colder and drier atmosphere of rooms. Hence the 
necessity of selecting such as naturally flower early, and can be 
forwarded with little fire heat in a light airy house and a temperature 
of 55° to 05° artificially. If there is a pit that can be filled with 
fermenting leaves it will be an advantage, lessening the necessity 
for fire heat, and affording mild bottom heat to such plants as Lily 
of the Yalley and Tuberoses. In order to supplement the regular supply 
of flowers afforded by the winter and spring-flowering occupants of 
the stove and greenhouse, a forcing house for such as the following 
is essential to meet the demand. For the conservatory Rhododen¬ 
drons are unrivalled, selecting those that flower early, as Nobleanum, 
caucasicum album, limbatum, coriaceum, Purity, altaclerense, 
cardinale, Mrs. John Clutton, Michael Waterer, Lady Armstrong, 
Cynthia, Everestianum, Scipio, Mrs. Fitzgerald, Glennyanum, Brough- 
tonianum, Sir Robert Peel, Mars, &c., not omitting Early Gem and 
fragrans. For association with Rhododendrons Azaleas are indis¬ 
pensable, producing bright sweet flowers for cutting, especially A. 
pontica. A. mollis and its varieties are superb, and should be grown 
by everyone, but for durability the double narcissiflora, yellow ; 
Graf van Moran, pink ; and Yan Houtte, yellow and red, are match¬ 
less, and hold a high position for forcing. Kalmia latifolia and K. 
myrtiflora afford elegant delicate waxy flowers, and are usually much 
appreciated. Laurustinus, with its natural disposition to bloom 
during the winter, is easily induced to open its flowers in a little heat; 
much may be written in its favour, indeed plants are beautiful in the 
conservatory. Lilacs are, of course, very useful; Charles X. has 
large flowers, but to be white requires to be grown in the dark, the 
common white and Persian Lilac not needing such treatment. The 
Guelder Rose is valuable for forcing, but finer still is the Japanese 
Viburnum plicatum, having globular heads of white flowers. The 
double Plum (Prunus sinensis alba flore-pleno), is useful, but not equal 
to the indispensable Deutzia gracilis, which is likely to find a 
rival in Staphylea colchica, its terminal panicles of white flowers 
being extremely ornamental. Spiraea Thunbergi flowers very pro¬ 
fusely, but is not of great endurance. Sweet Briar is usually in 
request for its scent and sprays for cutting. Daphne Cneorum major 
is also valued for its rosy pink deliciously scented flowers, but it 
must not be brought on too quickly. Dielytra spectabilis is fine for 
anj' purpose. Pinks are always acceptable, and should be assigned 
positions near the glass. Blue is a colour by no means common in 
forced plants, but it is readily afforded by Myosotis dissitiflora, which 
blooms for a long time in a light airy position in a temperature of 50°. 
Hoteia (Spiraea) japonica caunot be too highly extolled; no other 
plant is more elegant and graceful, nor endures more cutting. A first 
batch of the above-named plants should be introduced, damping them 
occasionally overhead on bright afternoons, and available surfaces 
two or three times a day, commencing with a temperature of 50° 
artificially, increased in a fortnight to 55 p , allowing an advance from 
sun heat of 10°. Plants of every description, even if hardy, intended 
to be forced should at once be protected from frost, as there is no 
advantage in allowing them to become frozen. 
Where Hyacinths and Narcissuses are required early a few of the 
earliest potted may be placed in heat. They should be assigned 
positions near the glass ; but if they have only recently been removed 
from the usual plunging bed of ashes they must not be at once sub¬ 
mitted to the full influence of light, or the growth will be crippled ; 
small flower pots inverted over them will at first admit enough light 
through the hole in the bottom, tilting the pots after a few days, 
and when the advancing growths have gradually become green 
remove the pots altogether. Crocuses must be allowed to come on 
gradually, being kept near the glass in a temperature of about 50°. 
Scillas should be treated similarly. Lily of the Yalley must be 
introduced at intervals to maintain the supply. At this early season 
bottom heat (80°) is essential to certain growths, especially for 
imported crowns or clumps, covering them about 2 inches deep in the 
plunging material, and when the flower spikes appear invert flower 
pots over them until the spikes are 5 or G inches high, when the pots 
can be removed, and exposure to light will soon give the flowers 
substance. 
NOTES ON VILLA AND SUBURBAN GARDENING. 
PLANT HOUSES AND FRAMES. 
Hints upon Watering.—One, of the greatest difficulties with inex¬ 
perienced plant-growers is not being able to determine when a plant 
should or should not be watered. No matter how well the plants 
may be potted, if they be either neglected or supplied too freely they 
will not thrive, and in many instances will be completely ruined ; 
hence the necessity of the grower studying their habits and attending 
closely to their respective requirements. Yery frequently the owners 
of plants supply them with water regularly, and seem surprised when 
told that this is the real cause of failure. Among the working classes 
window plants are much prized, and are often well grown when once 
the art of watering is understood. Regular watering sometimes 
means giving daily driblets ; this is a very faulty practice, and equally 
so is that of filling the pots too full of soil, instead of allowing the 
depth of the rim of the pot. In this case the surface of the soil is 
soaked regularly while that part of the soil where the roots are gradu¬ 
ally becomes dust dry, which nothing but an immersion in a tub of 
water will moisten. Although many plants can be restored to healthy 
vigour after being injured by drought at the roots—more so, in fact, 
than is the case with the opposite extreme—it is still a common cause 
of failure with Cinerarias, Cyclamens, Calceolarias, Fuchsias, Salvias, 
Solanums, Balsams, Chrysanthemums, Callas, Camellias, Azaleas, 
Ericas, Bouvardias, Libonias, and many more. None of these should 
ever be allowed to flag, as they will be considerably checked if not 
fatally injured thereby. 
It is difficult to lay down any rules as to the proper time for 
watering, as so much depends upon circumstances. Hardwooded 
plants, which usually have very fine roots and are potted very 
firmly, require the greatest amount of judgment, as they are the most 
easily injured by either extreme. Yvfith the coarser-rooted plants 
the test of sharply rapping the pots with the knuckles is generally 
a safe one (the soil being dry the pot gives a somewhat empty sound); 
but if watering is delayed till the pots containing Heaths and Azaleas 
sound at all empty the chances are that many of the roots will be 
killed. To test these the small plants may be lifted to try the weight, 
and the larger judged either by the dry appearance of the soil or by 
feeling, and even by loosening the surface slightly. Sufficient water 
should always be given to thoroughly moisten the soil, so that at 
least a small quantity shall pass through the drainage. Owing to 
small shifts being given to this class of plants they are frequently 
potted rather high, so that but little water can be given at a time, and 
therefore a second supply is often needed to ensure complete moisten¬ 
ing. If by chance any of these be found excessively dry, at once 
immerse them for at least thirty minutes in a pail of tepid water. 
Never use water quite cold, nor, on the other hand, very warm water, 
as this may give a check to the roots should the temperature be low 
where the plant is growing. The safest rule would be to always use 
water raised slightly above the temperature of the house, room, or 
frames, and the softer the water is the better for the well-being of 
the plants. Much caution is required at this time of year when 
watering plants in unheated structures, as they lose but little moisture 
by evaporation ; neither do the pots absorb moisture from the soil. 
In this case it is best to keep them a little drier than usual, watering 
only when necessary to prevent the foliage drooping. Bedding Pelar¬ 
goniums at the present time do not require water if in a cool house 
or frame, as they should not be induced to grow for at least 
two months to come. The less fire heat they have beyond that 
employed to keep out frost or prevent damping the better; the 
same remarks apply with equal force to Cinerarias and herbaceous 
