534 - JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t December 9, mo. 
Calceolarias, which under these circumstances will not require water 
very frequently—certainly not daily. Where fire heat is used to 
maintain a suitable temperature, Solanums, Callas, Salvias, Eupa- 
toriums, Browallias, Abutilons, and others will require liberal water¬ 
ings almost daily, especially if they are near the hot-water pipes 
or flues ; but if the temperature during the night falls much below 
50° delicate plants, such as Coleuses, Iresines, Alternantheras, and 
Mesembryanthemums, must be very sparingly watered or they will 
succumb. 
In the case of Fuchsias, and indeed all deciduous plants in a resting 
state, give water often enough to prevent the wood from shrivelling. 
The wood must be plump as well as ripened. The Maidenhair Fern 
(AdiantunCcuneatum) should now be resting—that is to say, should 
be in a somewhat cool house, and receive only sufficient water to 
keep the plants alive, as this will insure a strong even start in the 
spring. Adiantum formosum must also be watered sparingly if in a 
cool house, but in a stove may be kept steadily growing. Adiantum 
farleyense should be in a light but cool part of the stove, and be 
also watered carefully, or premature growth will ensue. Caladiums 
may be placed as near the hot-water pipes as possible and kept 
perfectly dry, the Gloxinias also to be kept dry and in a cold house, 
the same remarks applying to tuberous-rooted Begonias. Begonia 
Weltoniensis may be kept in a moderately heated greenhouse, or 
even in a window, provided only sufficient water is given to pre¬ 
vent the stems shrivelling. The winter-flowering Begonias require 
a stove temperature, and should not be allowed to become very 
dry at the roots. Stephanotises and Allamandas must now be 
resting or ripening, but the latter particularly ought not to be dried 
too much at the roots. Plumbago capensis may be rested in a cool 
house—where, indeed, it is usually grown. Crotons and Dracsenas 
may be kept somewhat dry at the roots, though not to such an 
extent as to cause the leaves to fall. Young plants of these may 
be kept steadily growing. Eranthemums, Poinsettias, Plumbagos, 
Begonias, Euphorbias, and other plants that may be taken from a 
stove and placed in a cooler structure or room, should be watered 
with the greatest caution ; in fact, they may be kept comparatively 
dry. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
William Fell & Co., Hexham, Northumberland .—Catalogue of Trees 
and Shrubs. 
Putz & Boes, Erfurt, Prussia, and 50, Great Russell Street, London, 
W.C .—List of Seeds. 
L. Spiith, Berlin .—General Catalogue. 
Corry, Soper, Powler, & Co. (Limited), Finsbury Street and Shad 
Thames, London .—Trade Price List of Nursery men's Sundries. 
*** All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editors” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Mr. Johnson or 
Dr. Hogg often remain unopened unavoidably. We request that 
no one will write privately to any of our correspondents, as doing 
so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and 
should never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Address (Subscriber).—It you write to Messrs, Ransomes, Sims, and Head, 
Ipswich, you will obtain the information you require. 
Books (Inquirer and Field ).—The work you have is a good one. You would 
find the “ Cottage Gardeners’ Dictionary ” very useful. The names of the plants 
are accentuated as an aid to their correct pronunciation. A revised edition 
wit'n a supplement of this work is in course of preparation, and the publishers 
inform us that it will be ready in the course of a few months. 
Potting Hyacinths (J. B .).—The bulbs ought to have been potted a 
month ago. You must not lose a day in potting them, or they will not flower 
soon enough for your purpose. We cannot name plants from crushed and im¬ 
perfect portions of the leaves alone. 
Myatt's Ashleaf Potato (H. M). —It was raised by Jas. Asliwin, Esq., 
Bretforten Hall, Evesham, by whom it was given to Mr. Hyatt, an extensive 
market gardener in the neighbourhood. Mr. Ashwin also gave it to Mr. Rivers 
of Sawbridgeworth, and he named it, for the reason stated in page 439, the 
Royal Ashleaf. Eventually it was placed in commerce by Messrs. Wrench 
under the name of Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, as they had the stock from Saw¬ 
bridgeworth ; but Mr. Rivers always disclaimed the right of his name being 
attached to this Potato. 
Tydseaa ( J.P. ).—You may gradually reduce the water after the plants 
have flowered, but withholding it suddenly and entirely is not sound practice. 
We shall publish notes on the culture of Tydaeas in an early issue. 
Cypripedium insigne (B. T. J.).— It is not common for two flowers to 
be produced on one stem, yet we have seen several examples on plants that, like 
your own, have been unusually well grown. We never saw a finer example of 
good culture than the flowers you have sent. We should hesitate to cut up the 
plant, as the check that would necessarily be given would prevent similar 
flowers being produced for some time ; still, if you can separate the portion to 
which you refer without greatly disturbing the roots, you might succeed in 
your object. 
Otterspool Brussels Sprouts (Inquirer).— In the trial of Brussels 
Sprouts at Chiswick this year the Fruit and Vegetable Committee of the Royal 
Horticultural Society decided that the “ Aigburth ” from Messrs. Her & Co., of 
Aigburth near Liverpool, and the variety above named are identical. 
Heating a Tank ( IF. M. L.). —Your sketch is unintelligible, but if you raise 
the tank above the pipes, and take a branch from the flow pipe through.the tank, 
and connect it with the same pipe at a higher point or beyond the tank, the water 
in the pipe will circulate freely and heat the water in the tank. If the tank is 
small a 2-inch pipe will probably be sufficient, but if large a 3-inch pipe will be 
preferable ; the size of pipe, however, must be determined by the extent to 
which the wuter in the apparatus is usually heated. 
Vine Roots (C. B. M). —The Vines have been carefully examined. There 
were no Phylloxeras on them, and no signs of any having been there ; indeed 
there were no insects at all on the portions we examined. Your representative 
has, however, informed us that insects have been seen on the roots, and if you 
will send us some of these insects they shall be carefully examined. The roots 
appear as if they had been in contact with some corrosive substance, still by 
your description the border appears to have been made correctly. Is there iron 
in the loam ? Gas ammoniacal liquor is a powerful stimulant, and mixed in 
proportion of one pint to two gallons of water is safe for many crops. We do 
not know whether it will kill the Phylloxera, not having tried it with that 
object. 
Wire for Vineries (T. IF.).—Galvanised wire may be safely employed 
provided it is well painted, three coats being given in the first instance, and a 
fresh coat annually. Unpainted it is very injurious in some places, but not in 
all. Something will be published shortly on the injury resulting from this wire 
in some cases and notin others. Copper wire is quite safe, but much more costly 
than galvanised wire. We should not hesitate to use the last-named wire, keep¬ 
ing it well painted. 
Chrysanthemum Culture (Old Subscriber ).— As you are an “old sub¬ 
scriber ” and j'et “ do not recollect having seen any information on the above 
subject,” we fear you are not an attentive reader. Many articles on the subject 
have appeared ; and if you send stamps to the publisher and ask him to send you 
Nos. 819, 820, and 977, you will find details for growing specimen large-flowered 
varieties, specimen Pompons (both illustrated), and blooms for exhibition. The 
price of the three numbers is 10£d. The articles referred to are written by excel¬ 
lent cultivators and successful exhibitors. The subject will be further alluded 
to in due time. 
Propagating Chrysanthemums (L. II. S., Clapham rark).— If you 
place the plants in a light position in a warm greenhouse they will afford cut¬ 
tings that will strike readily in January in a moderately heated propagating 
house. When rooted the tops of the plants can be taken oil, and in the mean¬ 
time the stock plants will afford successional batches of cuttings to be inserted 
as soon as large enough. By continuing this practice until May a great number 
of plants can be raised from a few old stools. Cuttings, or rather offsets, will 
strike if inserted now and the pots plunged in ashes in a frost-proof frame, but 
as your object is to raise as many plants as possible the plan above indicated 
will be preferable. 
Cornflowers (Idem). —There are several pretty varieties, but the one most 
suitable for your purpose is, we think, Centaurea Cyanus major. Seed sown 
in good soil and a favourable position in the open ground during fine weather 
in February or March will produce early-flowering plants ; or if a little seed is 
sown in pots in a greenhouse, the seedlings being thinned out and grown on a 
shelf close to the glass for a time, then prepared in a frame for planting 
out about the end of March or early in April, the plants if well managed would 
flower still earlier than those from seed sown in the open air. You may sow 
in pots now or in January. The earliest and best plants are produced by sow¬ 
ing in September and affording the plants the protection of a cold frame if 
needed during the winter. 
Roses (A Subscriber). —We will readily comply with your request and name 
“ some good Roses,” but as we do not know whether you require a dozen or a 
hundred we are unable to submit a list that will be serviceable to you. Cor¬ 
respondents when requesting selections of varieties of flowers or fruit should in 
their own interests state the number they need. It is of no use our publishing 
fifty names when twelve would suffice, and to publish the smaller number when 
the larger is required would cause disappointment. 
Fruits for a Cold District (TF. IF. A .).—We think you would derive 
advantage by noting those varieties that usually succeed well in your district 
and plant them. Local nurserymen are usually acquainted with the sorts that 
give the greatest satisfaction in the locality in which they are interested. 
Judging from your letter we conclude that no very late varieties of Apples and 
Pears could be depended on, and those that are moderately early in favourable 
localities would prove late with you. Dessert Apples that we think would be 
likely to succeed are Devonshire Quarrenden and Cox’s Orange Pippin ; kitchen 
Apple, Tower of Glamis. Pears—Jargonelle, Marie Louise d’Uccle, and for stew¬ 
ing Catillac. Cherries.—Early Rivers and Kentish. Plums—Oullins Golden and 
Victoria. The Pear you sent shrivelled instead of ripening, and we are unable 
to identify it; it resembles a stunted specimen of Beurre Diel. Thanks for 
your letter. 
Wintering Eclieverias and Kleinias (M. M.). —Let the Echeverias 
remain where they are, giving them but little water. The offsets may be removed 
in the spring soon after the vinery is started, and be planted in boxes of gritty 
soil, which should be kept moist to promote their growth. They should be sorted 
into sizes, so that the large and small are not mixed together in the boxes. It is 
important, too, that this principle be adopted when planting them in the flower 
