556 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ December 16, 1880. 
rich and highly perfumed flavour similar to that of Williams’ Bon 
Chretien much subdued. 
“A very excellent Pear, with a rich and refreshing juice, which 
is sugary, acidulous, and clean on the palate.” 
CURRENT TOPICS. 
Sawdust for Propagating. — I was much pleased in reading 
Mr. D. Thomson’s notes on this subject at page 500. Sawdust 
is a cheap, plentiful, and easily procured material in town and 
country, and for these reasons the information respecting it is 
valuable and acceptable. Here cartloads of it are burned every 
month, but after this I shall try some of it for propagating. 
Perhaps some others besides myself may, however, be wondering 
how the young roots get on when they are shifted out of the saw¬ 
dust into the loam. I have rooted cuttings in sand and cocoa- 
nut fibre refuse, and the roots formed were both numerous and 
long, but it always took such roots much longer to obtain proper 
hold of the soil when potted than those in loam, leaf soil, and 
sand. Perhaps Mr. Thomson would kindly say if that is the case 
with sawdust, if the dust is shaken quite away from the roots 
before potting, and the best way to perform the last operation 
without check ? 
Grapes Without Fire Heat. — I think this may now be 
considered an annual subject for Grape-growers to write about, 
and it is to be hoped this may cause many to experiment for 
themselves on the matter. I am of opinion that if growers would 
use less fire heat in their vineries during June, July, August, and 
September than they are in the habit of doing, they would be 
well pleased with the results. These are the months when the 
majority of Vines are m full growth ; but keeping the Grapes 
afterwards is a different thing, although Mr. S. Castle (page 499) 
makes this his chief objection to growing Grapes without fire heat. 
It is astonishing how well all Grapes and Vines succeed during 
the four months named without any fire heat; but everyone who 
has had experience in keeping Grapes in November, December, 
and onwards must know that frost and damp cannot be kept 
away without heat of some kind. For this reason no good glass 
house should be erected without the means of heating it, artificial 
heat only to be employed in cases of necessity, which will certainly 
not be through the best months of the year. 
Garden Refuse. —Mr. Jggulden has named many ways of 
employing this with advantage, but he has omitted the most 
important at this season—that is, the best way to dispose of fruit 
tree and evergreen bush prunings, now so plentiful. If Mr. 
Iggulden and others would make these into heaps and cover 
them with old turf parings, weeds, and sweepings, and then light 
a fire in the centre of the heap, there would be no occasion to 
wait for a year or more, as the burning at once converts them 
into better manure for all purposes than would be the case in any 
other way. 
Brussels Sprouts. —“ To produce the best of Sprouts, ought 
the crown of the plant to be cut out or not 1 ” asks “ G. 0. S.” on 
page 503. It may be briefly stated that if the most is desired to 
be made of Sprouts never take the points out. If the crown is 
cut before the plants are fully grown it stops their growth to a 
considerable extent, and if the same is done when full-grown it 
will cause the side sprouts to start earlier into growth and flower 
in spring than they would otherwise do. I have never seen any 
advantage follow taking the crown off before all the side sprouts 
were gathered. 
Melons and Bottom Heat. — I know it will occur to some of 
your readers in reading the remarks of Mr. Crump (page 509) that 
his experience with bottom heat for Melons falls short of theirs. 
He does not believe the cold-frame treatment suitable for pro¬ 
ducing good Melons, because he says he has never met with an 
example worthy of the name grown under such conditions. This 
is not very encouraging to the thousands who have no other means 
of growing Melons than in frames. But that good Melons, both 
in size and flavour, may be grown in such frames I have had many 
proofs. I know of no one equal to Mr. Pettigrew of Cardiff in Melon 
culture. His crops are annually very fine, and dozens of his best 
fruits are grown in frames without top or bottom heat artificially 
afforded. My practice agrees with this, as I have been awarded 
prizes at some of the best metropolitan fruit shows so late in the 
season as the last day in September for Melons cut out of a two- 
light frame where they had no artificial heat for two months 
previously. 
Trapping Bullfinches. —The destructiveness of these birds 
is admitted, and Mr. Hiam has proposed an alternative remedy 
to the gun. Bullfinches are no doubt as much valued in towns as 
they are dreaded in fruit gardens, and the suggestion referred to 
“ to turn them into cash ” is worthy of attention both on the 
score of “ economy and humanity.”—A Kitchen Gardener. 
WORK/o'Ithe WEEK.. 
K.ITCHEN GARDEN. 
Where Peas have not been sown outside preparation should now be 
made for sowing under glass either in cold pits, a late Peach house, 
or orchard house. The old-fashioned horseshoe draining tiles 
3 inches in diameter, or wooden troughs 3 or 4 inches in diameter and 
depth, may be employed, but where turves can be obtained those cut 
about 3 inches thick and divided into strips 4 inches wide are best 
adapted for the purpose. The strips of turf should have a groove 
cut down the centre half them width and depth on the root side, the 
seed being sown and covered with fine soil. After the young plants 
have made some growth they must have light airy positions and be 
treated so as to insure sturdy growth, and rvhen 4 to 6 inches high 
they should be planted in drills outdoors in a warm situation. If 
intended to be planted at the foot of south walls such varieties as 
Little Gem, Blue Peter, Early Premium Gem, and Unique should be 
chosen, whilst for the border such as William I., First and Best, and 
Harbinger, the last-named being a week in advance of the others in 
commencing bearing. A sowing of Broad Beans for early crop may 
now be made in turves ; the variety Beck’s Gem is a good oncj 
and may be planted at the base of walls for a very early crop. If 
required for exhibition Seville Longpod or Carter’s Leviathan may be 
treated similarly, but will not be suitable for transferring to a position 
near walls from its greater height. 
If the weather be open make a sowing of Peas outside to supplement 
those sown in November, affording a sheltered position and light 
rich soil. The dwarf varieties already alluded to are suitable for 
sowing at the base of walls, and with care will yield very acceptable 
dishes of Peas some days in advance of those which are more ex¬ 
posed. Early Peas must be carefully protected from birds. Dust the 
plants while damp with lime or soot, and place sticks to them ; small 
twigs of Spruce, or the leafy twigs of young Beech and Hornbeam, 
are suitable. A sowing of Broad Beans should also be made outside. 
Keep the ground about crops of Cabbages, Lettuces, Onions, and 
Spinach free from weeds, stirring it occasionally, and rendering plants 
firm that have been disturbed by frost, removing all decayed leaves, 
and filling any blanks with plants from the reserve beds. Spinach 
should be gathered carefully, picking the jfull-sized leaves only, and 
allowing the plants plenty of room. Lettuces and other crops subject 
to the attacks of slugs must be dusted occasionally with quicklime. 
To be prepared for frost it is advisable to have a supply of Turnips, 
Jerusalem Artichokes, and Horseradish in store, also Seakale for 
forcing. A complete clearing should be made of fallen leaves, and 
all available surfaces be turned up ; even those beneath fruit trees 
may be pointed over to destroy surface weeds and to produce a neat 
appearance. Asparagus beds should receive a dressing about 3 inches 
thick of thoroughly decomposed manure, which should be covered 
with a similar thickness of soil from the alleys. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines .—When the buds in the early vinery are swelling the rods 
should be examined, especially young Yines ; and if the upper part or 
terminals are taking the lead they must be brought down to a hori¬ 
zontal position, syringing the canes frequently until the lower buds 
have started, when the rods should be secured in position. Do not 
disbud hastily, but allow the breaks to advance until the best show 
of fruit can be discerned, and then disbud gradually. The extra 
foliage will encourage root-action. Turn the fermenting materials 
over frequently and add fresh from the reserve, maintaining the heat 
at about 80°. The night temperature of the house should not exceed 
60°, and in severe weather it may fall to 55°. Ventilate a little every 
day, the temperature ranging from G0° to 65° artificially when the 
buds are growing, increasing to 70° or 75° with sun heat. It will be 
