558 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. c December is, isso. 
the weather. Christmas Roses are greatly appreciated and in request 
for cutting, and the flowers are much finer and purer in colour when 
covered with a handglass, which where forthcoming should be placed 
over the plants at once. Plants of doubtful hardiness, such as Bam- 
busas, Pampas Grass, New Zealand Flax, Chammrops Fortunei, and 
others of similar character, must be afforded the necessary protection 
before severe weather; some fresh leaves and bracken with a few 
Laurel or Spruce branches are generally effective. Plants against 
walls, such as Ceanothuses and Magnolias, may be protected by tack¬ 
ing a double mat in front of them on the approach of severe weather. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Greenhouse. —Admit air freely whenever the temperature exceeds 
45°, and employ fire only to maintain the heat at about 40° at night 
in severe weather, and between that and 45° in the daytime. Where, 
however, there are no Heaths, but the collection is composed of the 
freer-growing hardwooded as well as softwooded plants, the tem¬ 
perature may be kept at 40° to 45 Q at night, and 45° to 50“ in the 
day artificially. Keep a strict look-out for aphides and fumigate 
upon their first appearance. Heaths cannot be kept too cool if frost 
is excluded, and in mild weather too much air cannot be admitted. 
Lachenalias should have positions near the glass, and if supplied 
with weak liquid manure they will grow and flower better. Attend 
to the training of Tropseolum Jarratti, T. tricolorum, and others of 
that section, so as to secure the even covering of the trellis, and 
assign them light airy positions, keeping the soil moist. Mignonette 
must only have water to keep the plants from flagging, and should 
occupy positions where they will receive plenty of light and air 
when the weather is favourable. Yallota purpurea will be advancing 
in growth and must not lack water. Some keep this plant too dry 
in winter, causing the destruction of the old foliage, and are dis¬ 
appointed at flowering time. Any plants requiring larger pots may 
now be shifted, and if increase be desired they may be divided, pre¬ 
serving as many roots to each portion as possible. Do not remove 
the offsets as is often done; they will not interfere with the larger 
bulbs, soon attaining to a flowering size, and pots with a number of 
flower scapes are more effective than those with single plants. The 
Vallota succeeds well in turfy loam and requires good drainage, as 
during growth the watering must be copious, affording a light posi¬ 
tion. Let Cinerarias advanced for flowering be assisted with weak 
liquid manure, also Cyclamens and Primulas whenever water is 
required, giving it only when necessary, and then thoroughly, avoiding 
as much as possible pouring it on the neck or collar of the plants. 
Keep Show and Fancy Pelargoniums near to the glass, and where 
free ventilation can be given when the weather is favourable, affording 
water very sparingly at present. 
Such plants as Acacias and other New Holland plants, being of 
stronger growth than the fibrous-rooted Cape plants, will require 
more copious supplies of water whenever they become dry. Camellias 
are moisture-loving plants, and must not be neglected, as if only once 
allowed to become too dry at the roots it may occasion the falling of 
the buds. Azaleas also require careful attention in the supply of 
water. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Chr. Lorenz, Erfurt, Germany.— Catalogue of Flower and Vegetable 
Seeds. 
Richard Dean, Ealing.— Catalogue of Florists' Flowers and Herb¬ 
aceous Plants. 
William Etherington, The Gardens, Manor House, Swanscombe, 
Kent.— Descriptive List of Chrysanthemums. 
Address (It. S. (?.).—If you write to Messrs. Richard Smith & Co., Worcester, 
you will probably obtain the information you require. 
Strawberry Culture (Civis Britannicus, Bruges ).—There are two small 
manuals on the cultivation of this fruit that may be of service to you ; one may 
be had, price l.s. 6d., from Mr. Hinds, The Gardens, Canford Manor, Wimborne, 
Dorset; the other from Mr. Lovel, Weaverthorpe, York, price Is. Both manuals 
contain practical and useful information. 
Labels for Wall Trees ( V.. C. B.).— As we have frequently stated, we do 
not recommend tradesmen or nurserymen ; it would be most invidious and 
unfair for us to do so, as you would feel if you were a vendor instead of a pur¬ 
chaser, and we recommended the articles of someone else instead of your own. 
You will find all the information you require by consulting the advertising 
columns of the current and a few past numbers of this Journal. 
Asparagus Culture (-1 Young Gardener). —Both your advisers may be 
right. In some gardens much preparation of the soil is needed to induce the 
plants to grow satisfactorily, while in others they will grow well in the ordinary 
soil without any elaborate preparation. In one of the finest gardens in the mid¬ 
land counties, managed by a gardener of great ability, it is only with the 
greatest difficulty that Asparagus can be grown; on the other hand we know 
acres of good Asparagus without the land having been even trenched before it 
was planted. Read carefully the notes published in the present number, and 
follow the mode of culture detailed that appears the most applicable to your 
soil and situation. 
Carnations for Christmas {Mrs. Mason). —You are expecting rather 
too much when you ask “ how to treat cuttings of some beautiful Carnations to 
have flowers at Christmas,” at least if you mean the festive season now pending. 
If you have a moderately heated propagating case, or a warm house, you may 
insert the cuttings in sandy soil, water them, and cover with a bellglass. If 
this is wiped out daily and careful attention is given the cuttings may strike, 
although this is not the best season for striking them, and with proper culture 
and suitable varieties the plants may be had in flower at Chrismas, 1881. We 
shall shortly publish notes on the cultivation of these flowers and enumerate 
some good varieties. 
Water Melons (A Gardener). —They require practically the same treat¬ 
ment as ordinary Melons, and may be grown in houses or frames. We have 
grown them successfully by having strong plants ready for planting in May, by 
which time the frames that had been employed for forcing Potatoes were at 
liberty. The soil was removed and a few barrowfuls of fermenting materials 
mixed with the old bed, the soil replaced, and when gently warmed the Melons 
were planted. They were then watered, pruned, and ventilated as for ordinary 
Melons, and in due time fine fruits ripened ; but they were not by any means 
equal in flavour to the best named varieties of Melons grown under precisely the 
same treatment. 
Strawberries, Weight per Acre (IF. B.).— In our issue of August 
26th of the present volume you will find on page 196 an answer to a question on 
this subject. The estimate is, however, necessarily approximative, as so much 
depends on the soil and mode of culture pursued, and also on the seasons, all of 
which circumstances greatly influence the productiveness of the crops. Suitable 
distances for planting are 2 feet 6 inches between the rows, and 18 inches be¬ 
tween the plants in the rows, or about eleven thousand plants per acre. In Kent 
Yicomtesse Hericart de Thury, syn. Garibaldi, is more extensively grown than 
any other variety for market purposes. If you apply to Mr. Lovel of Weaver¬ 
thorpe, York, he will send you his pamphlet which has reference to growing 
Strawberries under field culture. 
Lapagerias Dying (IF. A'.).—You appear to have treated the plants 
correctly both as regards soil and careful watering. We are inclined to think 
that the peat contains something that is injurious to the roots. We have had 
peat that was quite unsuited for Lapagerias, also for Camellias and other plants. 
We should try some from a fresh source. The water, too, may be injurious, but 
if the lime is the deleterious ingredient we should expect that Camellias would 
similarly fail to flourish. You can have the water analysed by your county 
analyst, but if you prefer submitting a portion to a London analyst we will send 
you the address of one if you desire us to do so. 
Hyacinths (A. M. E .).—The bulbs that are “ raised out of the pots ” have 
not been properly potted. The soil on which they rest has been much too firm; 
and, instead of the mass of roots entering it freely it has by its resistance 
caused the displacement complained of. If the roots are not more than an inch 
or two long, which is probably the case, the bulbs should be at once potted 
afresh, and if the work is done with great care the Hyacinths will flourish. As 
much of the soil must be taken from the pots as will enable you to hold each 
bulb in the left hand in the centre of the pot, the roots hanging so that they do 
not touch the bottom ; then with the right place in the soil carefully, not press¬ 
ing it about the roots, which are very tender, but giving instead a few smart 
raps of the pot on a firm bench, still holding the bulb with the hand. AVhen 
the pots are filled with soil it may be pressed down round the sides, but the 
bulbs must not be pressed down, nor the roots crushed. Water them immediately 
through a fine rose, and cover with cocoa-nut fibre refuse for about three weeks, 
by which time they will be well established. AVhen the bulbs are partially up- 
heaved and not rectified the plants are never satisfactory, as the spikes grow in 
a slanting direction and are with difficulty staked upright to show them to 
advantage. 
Arrangement of Hot-water Pipes (G. S.).—Ii the pipes rise directly 
from the boiler to the level of the house, as they should do, only rhe slightest 
possible rise in the flow pipe is requisite through the house ; indeed if the 
vertical portion from the boiler to the house is considerable the water will circu¬ 
late freely through the pipes if they are placed quite level. Four-inch pipes are 
preferable to 3-inch because of their greater heating surface, and because, the 
volume of water being greater, the pipes do not cool so quickly after being 
heated ; 3-inch pipes, however, are preferable for certain small structures where 
the heat from larger pipes would be excessive. AVe do not recommend the plan of 
having very small or 2-inch flow and return pipes for connecting the 4-inch 
pipes with the boiler, although we know the plan is adopted in many places, and 
apparently answers well. We are unable to advise you on the other subject you 
mention; your own ingenuity will be of far more value to you than any informa¬ 
tion we can convey. 
Heating Greenhouse (/’.).—Your proposed plan'of heating as described 
in your letter, not as shown in your sketch, will answer. If you have a stage 
you may have the flow pipe under it if you choose by sinking the boiler, or if 
you have a bed the pipe may be as you propose. The bed will answer very well; 
and by placing some plants on inverted flower pots, and not needlessly spilling 
water, the bed will not be too moist in the winter. The flow pipe should pro¬ 
ceed from the top of the boiler, with a vertical rise of a foot or two, then very 
gradually rise to the opposite end of the house, the air pipe being inserted at the 
highest point, to return as you propose, and enter the bottom of the boiler. By 
this arrangement the circulation will be certain, and a flow and return 4-inch 
pipe, as indicated, will be quite sufficient for your purpose. The propagating 
pit will be useful. It will be advisable to have a shield of some kind between the 
flow pipe and the plants—a row of roofing slates fixed on edge would answer, 
and not occupy much space. 
