578 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ December 23 , isso. 
now under mv charge. The accumulation of some years had 
formed a large heap, which was ultimately thrown up into 
two large heaps, intended for grass laud. The lower portion 
was so much decayed that I thought no seeds could possibly 
trouble us, and it was accordingly used in some beds in an old- 
fashioned flower garden. The weeds came up worse than before 
and caused us much trouble, so the remainder will be taken to 
the farm. The refuse of this season, in the form of burnt ashes, 
is now in a dry corner in the shed. In spite of the wet summer 
everything, except present prunings, have been burnt, and the 
ashes carefully sifted and stored. We manage by judiciously 
banking up the fire and attending regularly to keep it in many 
days together; the result being a heap of ashes, the value of 
which is only known by those who carefully store it one season 
and liberally use it the next. — J. W. Silver. 
where trees of considerable age have become unproductive, the variety 
of inferior quality, or unsuitable to the situation, they may now be 
headed down, particularly standard trees, and grafted in spring with 
more suitable varieties. Locality and soil have much to do with the 
bearing and quality of Apples and Pears ; hence in improving old 
trees or in forming plantations of fruit trees it is always advisable to 
employ largely the varieties that have been proved to succeed, not, 
however, to the exclusion of new varieties. Bullfinches are already 
becoming too attentive to the Gooseberry quarter. Sprinkling the 
bushes whilst wet with quicklime and soot will render the buds dis¬ 
tasteful to the birds, and a solution of fir tree oil insecticide or 
nicotine soap syringed over the bushes or applied through a rose 
watering pot will protect them for a long time. The gun, however, 
is the only certain remedy except trapping. 
workt^g^week.. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
In open weather planting fruit trees may be proceeded with, and 
as soon as they are planted the ground should be well mulched with 
littery manure to resist fro3t and keep the soil in a moist equable 
condition, which is of great importance to the success of newly 
transplanted trees. Where the condition of fruit trees on walls or in 
the open is unsatisfactory the roots must be carefully examined 
■when it will frequently be found that remedial measures may be 
employed with good results. Over-luxuriant fruit trees, whether 
trained to walls, or as espaliers, pyramids or standards, can generally 
be rendered fruitful by judicious root-pruning. This should, how¬ 
ever, be carefully performed, cutting back the strong bare roots, and 
preserving as many of the small roots and fibres as possible, laying 
them in fresh soil near the surface. It is impossible to give par¬ 
ticular rules for root-pruning, as that will need to be varied according 
to the vigour of the trees and the condition of the roots. 
Trees of moderate age that are very vigorous and have not pre¬ 
viously been root-pruned, will probably have the roots considerably 
elongated, thick, and with few ramifications near the stem. To cut 
those all away at once at a distance of 3 to 6 feet from the base of 
the tree would give a check that the tree may not recover from at- 
all, or take a considerable time to do so satisfactorily. In cases of 
this kind only a portion of the strongest roots should be cut in a 
season, say the thickest of the roots at a distance of from 3 to (1 feet 
from the stem, according to the size of the tree ; cutting them off 
clean and transversely, and removing from the soil as far as possible 
the portions severed. The cut-back roots will in two seasons have 
formed roots freely near the stem, when those not subjected to the 
process in the first instance may undergo similar treatment. In 
root-pruning generally, the roots should be laid bare to a distance of 
G feet from the stem, cutting back any that are thick and fibreless, 
and as far as possible to an angle, as in the case of removing super¬ 
fluous branches from the head. If they are deep they should be raised 
and laid out carefully near the surface. In cases of weakness in the 
trees let the surface of the soil be carefully removed so as to expose 
a considerable portion of the roots, and after cutting out any decayed 
parts and taking out the old soil, work some good turfy loam among 
them, and cover them about 3 or 4 inches deep ; render the soil 
moderately firm. Operations of this kind should be done in dry 
weather, mulching at once with littery manure. 
In the renovation of fruit trees, where the soil is light and shallow 
an addition of fresh turfy loam with clay or marl will be favourable, 
and should be supplemented by liberal surface dressings of cool 
manure. Where the soil is rich restriction of the roots by bienni¬ 
ally cutting them at about 4 to 6 feet distance from the stem all 
around will check the tendency to undue vigour, and maintain the 
trees in a fruitful condition. Where trees make sappy and late 
growths, the soil, in addition to being rich, is probably wet, which 
can only be rectified by a thorough system of drainage. In cases 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Conservatory .—Chrysanthemums will soon be over and their place 
taken by Camellias, which with other plants from the temperate 
house, in addition to those brought forward in heat, will make an 
effective display. To secure the free expansion of Camellia flowers 
a temperature of 45° to 50° is necessary in the day with a fall of 
about 5° at night, wffiich is equally suitable for plants generally 
in flower in the conservatory at this time of year. In severe weather, 
necessitating abundant fire heat, care must be taken that the atmo¬ 
sphere is not allowed to become too dry, or the buds of Camellias 
will be likely to fall, especially of late varieties. The supply of 
water to the roots must be liberal. Fragrant flowers are never 
more appreciated than at-Christmas, and especially is it necessary to 
provide a succession of such plants where the conservatory is attached 
to the mansion. Heliotropes that have been prepared for winter 
flowering should have a light position or their flowers will not open 
freely, and if in small pots liquid manure will be beneficial. Rich- 
ardiasmay be introduced as their spathes open. A sufficient supply 
of these plants should be at command to keep up a succession until 
spring, their distinct foliage and stately spathes contrasting well 
with others. A few well-grow'n plants of Violets placed about the 
house will afford an agreeable and acceptable odour. 
Pelargoniums. —Show, Spotted, and Fancy Pelargoniums are indis¬ 
pensable for conservatory decoration. For this purpose it is not 
advisable to grow specimens such as are seen at exhibitions, and at 
the same time do not have straggling meagre examples, but follow' a 
middle course by growing them of a medium size and with only as 
much tying as will keep them shapely. Plants desired to flower in 
May should now have the requisite number of sticks placed to them, 
bringing out the shoots to their places so as to admit air and light to the 
centre. Young vigorous-growing plants may have the points pinched 
outf older shoots that do not grow so fast will, especially for early 
flowering, be better without stopping. Late-flow r ered plants will now 
require shifting into their full-sized pots, ramming the soil quite firmly, 
as when lightly potted they do not flower satisfactorily. Afford no 
more water than is needed to keep the soil moist, inclining to the dry 
rather than a wet condition. A light airy position near the glass 
should be afforded ; and a temperature of 40° at night, or a little less, 
and about 5° more by day is suitable, admitting air freely at every 
favourable opportunity. 
Roses in Pots .—Any intended addition to the number of plants 
grown should at once be potted, giving plenty of drainage, and em¬ 
ploying good turfy loam with about a fifth of well-decayed manure 
and a sixth of sharp sand. Pot firmly, pruning at once, and place 
them in a cold pit where frost can be excluded, allowing them to 
come into flower without being excited in heat the first season. 
The ordinary stock should be kept cool, but where they will be safe 
from frost, completing any surface dressing or shifting into larger 
pots without delay, in the latter case only removing the old drainage 
and any loose soil. 
Herbaceous Calceolarias .—The earliest plants will require transfer¬ 
ring from their small pots before they become rootbound to 6 or 
7-inch pots. If this be delayed they become stunted and will not 
grow freely afterwards. No plants repay for attention better than 
these, keeping them steadily advancing in growth and free from 
aphides. Rich thoroughly reduced turfy loam, a fourth of decayed 
