24 
PRUNING AND TRAINING. 
preserve ail erect growth, and if required to be busby, 
the top should be pinched off, which will cause them 
to branch out anew; these shoots should be let grow, 
as they will produce the flowers, and when they have 
done flowering they should be pruned, the flower stem 
should be cut out, and weak straggling shoots should 
be Cut off close to the main stem, and the other branches 
shortened to within a few inches of the main stem. If 
they require shifting into larger pots and fresh soil, it 
should now be done, and in a few weeks they will 
grow out and make flue plants, ready to be taken into 
the house for winter. Such Plants as Camellia, Rho¬ 
dodendron, Daphne, and Plants of similar habits, sel¬ 
dom require pruning, except on dead branches, which 
should be cut out, and any straggling shoots cut off. 
But all soft-wooded plants require pruning once a 
year, which should be done after they have flowered, 
or before they begin to grow in Summer; that they 
may have time to perfect their growth before the win¬ 
ter. Salvia, Chrysanthenum, &c., should be cut down 
to within a few inches of the pot when done flower- 
ing. 
Climbing Plants as Passiflora, Hoya, Maurandia and 
others, should have trellises or frames to grow on, made 
of wood or wire, but wire frames are best. The best 
shape is the circular, barrel, and conical—the circular 
can be made by taking a piece of strong wire and thrust¬ 
ing one end down in the pot close to the side, and then 
binding it over and thrusting the other end in the pot 
opposite, and crossing it with smaller wire, one or two 
inches apart, to tie the plant on. This shape answers 
well for ivy Geraniums, Tropseolum, or any plant that 
