608 
THE PHARMACEUTICAL JOURNAL AND TRANSACTIONS. 
[February 1, 1873.- 
This cement is highly recommended for its adhesive 
qualities. 
GLUE AND GUM CEMENTS. 
These are very tender and well adapted to mending 
ornaments. They resist the action of water and at¬ 
mosphere. There are various kinds of these cements for 
hone, ivory, whalebone, mother-of-pearl and previous 
stones. 
One of these is made by dissolving 2 parts isinglass 
and 4 parts colourless glue in 60 parts water, evaporating 
to half its volume, then adding 1—15 part mastic dissolved 
in 1 part alcohol, and stirring in 2 parts zinc white. The 
surfaces are warmed when the cement is applied to 
them. This cement holds well, dries easily, and may be 
kept a long time in tightly-corked bottles. 
For bone, ivory, whalebone, mother-of-pearl, etc., a 
cement with a beautiful gloss may be prepared as fol¬ 
lows :—Soak common cabinetmakers’ glue in hot water, 
warm the jelly formed, add enough pulverulent slaked 
lime to give it consistency. Warm the object to be 
cemented, clean the surfaces carefully, apply the cement 
and tie the parts firmly together. In a few days it gets 
very hard. Even common glue, with pulverized chalk 
stirred in, makes an excellent cement for wood and 
metals. 
For fastening leather to metal, the metal should be 
coated with a hot solution of glue, and the leather with 
a hot extract of nut-galls. Allow them to dry quietly, 
and they adhere well. 
For porcelain, the well-known white-of-egg cement is 
best. To prepare this it is only necessary to stir the 
white of eggs into quite a stiff solution of glue, and then 
apply to the fracture. 
A cement of gum for porcelain is made by pulverizing 
4 parts of oyster shells and mixing intimately with 2 
parts pulverized gum arabic. The powder is kept in a 
well-stoppered bottle, and when needed for use is rubbed 
up with white of egg, or warm water, to a thick dough, 
anplied to the object and dried by a gentle heat. Ano¬ 
ther cement for glass and porcelain is made from 8 parts 
well-burnt pulverized alabaster gypsum and 2 parts fine 
gum arabic, mixed with water to a thick paste, and 40 to 
60 drops of oil of turpentine added to an ounce of the 
cement. 
CEMENTS FROM CASEIN. 
For glass, porcelain, stone and wood, the very best 
cement is made of a suitable quantity of old cheese 
rubbed fine and mixed with water to a thick magma, and 
a fourth part of pulverized lime added. 
A still stronger cement for the same purpose is made 
by slaking 1 pound of quicklime in water, and mixing 
with | pound pulverized lime or sandstone and 1 pound 
pulverized cheese. Before using, it is well to moisten 
the fracture or edges with warm water. 
A so-called casein waterglass is made as follows:— 
The casein of skimmed milk is separated from it by the 
addition of acetic acid, filtered, and the acid washed out 
with water. The pure caseine thus obtained is mixed 
with six times its volume of concentrated waterglass. 
This cement is thoroughly commendable, and well repays 
the trouble taken to make it. 
An excellent cement for artificial meerschaum, and one 
that may be used to give consistency to silk goods or to 
coat artificial flowers and court plaster, to give more 
adhesiveness and firmness, is made by rubbing two to 
four parts of the above casein with cold borax solution 
till a thick liquid is obtained that becomes clear on 
standing. This also renders goods waterproof. 
WATERGLASS CEMENTS. 
' For glass, earthenware, porcelain, and all kinds of 
stoneware, these cements are excellent. A cement for 
•glass and marble is prepared by rubbing together one 
part of fine pulverized glass and two parts of pulverized 
fluorspar, and then adding enough waterglass solution to • 
give it the consistency necessary in a cement. 
Waterglass mixed with hydraulic cement to a thick 
dough makes a good cement for the edges and joints of 
stone and marble slabs. It is well to mix but little at a 
time, as it hardens very quickly. 
LIME, GYPSUM, CLAY AND CEMENT, MIXED WITH WATER r 
OIL OR BLOOD. 
For cementing stone and for filling crevices in build-- 
ings, before they are painted, the masons use a cement 
made of fresh blood, slaked lime, brick dust, broken up 
coal ashes, hammerslag and sand in all proportions.. 
This excellent cement hardens quickly, and offers great 
resistance to the action of the weather. 
A lime cement for connecting water pipes, bathing, 
tubs, etc.; a mixture of two-thirds fine brick dust, two- 
thirds unslaked lime, and two-thirds hammerslag, is made 
and stirred up with lye or hot oil to a stiff dough. 
Another cement, intended to render Hessian clay 
retorts impenetrable, is obtained by rubbing fresnly 
slaked lime into a concentrated solution of borax. The- 
solution is applied with a stiff brush and allowed to dry, 
after which it is heated until the glazing begins to fuse. 
Clay mixed with wmter and fresh warm blood, con¬ 
taining some unslaked lime, is used in Germany to close 
joints in stoves. The cement is applied while the stove 
is hot. Wood ashes, fire clay and salt mixed^ with 
water is used for the same purpose. Fat and burnt 
clay, in equal proportions, moulded with water into 
a dough, is also used. 
Plaster of paris mixed with water and a cold solution, 
of alum is an excellent cement for stoneware. It sets, 
slowly, but becomes as hard as stone. 
IRON CEMENTS. 
Their essential constituents are iron filings or borings. 
By the addition of some common salt or sal-ammoniac 
they are rapidly oxidized, and the cement being: 
thereby increased in volume completely fills the- 
crevices where it is put. An excellent luting or 
cement for the joints and crevices in iron surfaces, and 
for rendering tight cast-iron steam and water pipes and 
water tanks is made of filings of cast iron. The filings 
are sifted to obtain those of the size of a gram of rice,., 
and then rubbed with horse urine and cne-half part salt 
ammoniac, well worked together, and an equal quantity 
of flowers of sulphur added. The mass is hammered 
until it gets warm, and then cold, and, finally, it begins 
to be brittle. In this condition it is put in the joints, and 
soon hardens. The surfaces where it is applied must be- 
free from rust. Greasy and oily substances are most 
readily removed by rubbing w r ith cotton dipped in ben¬ 
zine. The cement keeps best under water.. 
Another good iron cement is made by stirring 5 parts 
clay, 1 part salt, and 15 parts iron filings together with 
vinegar to a magma. It will stand heat, and is used for. 
bellows and air pipes. 
OIL CEMENTS. 
An excellent oil cement for porcelain and for luting 
of retorts, flasks and porcelain evaporating dishes is ob¬ 
tained when ordinary brick dust is powdered, sifted and 
mixed with an equal quantity of red lead, .and then, 
rubbed, under great pressure, into old boiled linseed oil 
to a thick paste, which is mixed with coarse sand to the 
stiffness of cement. When a dish is to be covered with 
it, paste is applied before the sand is put in, and the sand 
then strewn upon it. The dish i3 afterward exposed to 
a steady heat for a long time. 
For larger vessels take 6 parts litharge, 4 parts fresh- 
burnt pulverized lime and 2 parts white bole, and mix 
with cold linseed oil. 
To fasten metallic letters to a smooth surface a cement 
is made as follows:—30 parts copal varnish, 10 parts 
linseed oil varnish, 6 parts crude oil of turpentine, 10 
parts gluo dissolved in a little warm water, and 20 parts- 
