JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ January 4, 1863. 
14 
be provided with a turf spade. At b, c (fig. 5) is shown what I 
think is the best and quickest way to cut the turf. The first man 
( b ) cuts the turf half way, the other taking it up at that point and 
finishing it, while the boy, standing in front, rolls it up just 
behind the spade, having it in rows, as at d, ready for moving. 
Having lifted two widths carry the turves to the other side of the 
lawn and pack them neatly. This piece may then be levelled to 
the pegs previously inserted, treading it firmly when it has to be 
made up, then point lightly over, having a smooth surface. If 
there should be any soil to spare it should be laid on the unlifted 
turf near to, but on the opposite side of, some of the largest hollows 
where it will be required. The next two widths is then lifted, and 
one of them may be at once placed on the new levelled ground, 
and the other laid in position, but not unrolled. The second piece 
is then levelled, and the next turves laid upon it, and so on till all 
is done. Planks must always be used in carrying the turf, as the 
newly pointed ground must not be stepped upon till the turf is laid 
down. It should then be closely trodden over with the feet, 
smoothed with a turf-beater, and afterwards occasionally rolled 
during showery weather. If dry weather causes the edges of the 
turf to part fill them up by working some fine soil across the lawn 
with brooms.—R. INGLIS. 
THE COOL SYSTEM OF GRAPE CULTURE. 
At page 550 your correspondent, “ Vitis ” condemns the cool 
system of Grape culture, and says it is “ a penny wise and pound 
foolish ” one ; while, at page 547 he says it takes seven months 
to ripen such Grapes as the Duke of Buccleuch, Muscat Ham¬ 
burgh, and Madresfield Court !—in his own words from the middle 
of February till the middle of September, when, provided they 
are “generously treated in regard to heat,” &c., they “should be 
in good condition for the table,” Muscats to be “ allowed a little 
longer time to ripen.” 
In reply, I have to say that treatment which requires such a 
long time to render such Gi'apes fit for the table can be no other 
than cool treatment, for seven months is far in excess of the 
period required by these Grapes to ripen, nor is such time allowed 
even by those who do practise cool temperatures. I have tried 
both systems, and I am certain that “ Vitis 1 s ” system must be the 
cool one, and his success must be added to the many examples 
that have proved the cool system to be the right one. 
All the three varieties named are early Grapes. Madresfield Court 
with me ripens every year in less than six months or thereabouts 
under the cool system, and the Muscat Hamburgh in the same 
time as the Black Hamburgh, which, at the most unfavourable 
season of the year can be matured in five months. I have done 
it within that period with Vines in pots, and six months is the 
outside period that Vine requires. And now mark, the Duke of 
Buccleuch Grape was sent out with the character of being earlier 
than even the Hamburgh, which is the case. Mr. Barron, when 
visiting Clovenfords to report on that Grape, in his report said, 
“ It was evidently some weeks earlier than the Black Hamburgh ” 
grown in the same house. “Few of the Hamburghs were ripe or 
fit to cut, whereas the Duke had been cut and sent to market a 
month previously.” Further comment is needless, and I leave 
the reader to judge whether the treatment was cool or warm that 
took seven months to render such Grapes fit for the table, which 
is only another term for “ ripe.” There is only one general plan 
known to gardeners of keeping Grapes back, and that is to keep 
them cool, a plan which “ Vitis ” has furnished the best kind of 
evidence possible to prove he has followed with marked success.— 
Vitis Secundus. 
[By the most sldlful Cultivators in the several Departments .] 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Forcing vegetables is now an easier matter than it has been 
during the last two months, and quantities of choice and useful 
kinds may be brought forward. From now onwards there is no 
better way of forcing Asparagus than in frames placed on hot¬ 
beds made up with leaves and stable manure. When the frame 
is placed on the bed a thin layer of soil is spread over the surface, 
on which the roots are packed closely, and the crowns and roots 
are covered with more soil. When growth begins air and light 
are needed to impart high flavour. 
Seahale and Rhubarb roots need not be lifted for forcing now, 
but may be covered with pots, old boxes, or casks, these in turn 
being covered with fermenting material. Growth will soon begin, 
and the roots will remain uninjured, which is not the case when 
they are lifted to be forced. 
Kidney Beans should now be sown in quantity ; six or eight 
seeds may be placed into a 3-inch pot, filled with a mixture of 
loam and half-decayed manure. They will grow readily in a 
temperature of 60°. Apply water sparingly at first. When the 
plants are about 4 inches high they may be shifted into 8-inch 
pots. 
Planting early-frame Potatoes should now be general. A firm 
well-made hotbed is very suitable for them, but when only a dish 
or two is wanted they may be grown in 10-inch pots. The soil 
for all should be rich, and if on a hotbed should be a foot in 
depth. The sets should be placed 15 inches apart each way, and 
tubers with stout short growths are the best for planting. A little 
air should be admitted on all favourable occasions, and protection 
other than the glass lights should never be given unless in very 
severe weather. Turnip-rooted Radish, Mustard and Cress, 
Lettuce, Cauliflower, and Cabbage seed may be sown between 
the rows of Potatoes. The salads will be matured and used before 
the stems meet, and the other plants will have had a good start 
and be ready for planting in other frames or elsewhere. One or 
more frames of Carrots should also be sown on beds prepared as 
for Potatoes, but the soil should be light, free, and not very rich. 
A few Vegetable Marrow seeds may be sown as a first crop. They 
should be treated like Cucumbers both in sowing and afterwards. 
Early Peas may be sown in various ways. Raising them in 
turves and old troughs are good methods, but of late years we 
have sown all ours in 3-inch pots, placing a dozen or more seeds 
in each, and at planting time we put the little clumps about a foot 
apart without breaking the mat of roots which they form. There 
is less check from this than any other way. A few rows of Broad 
Beans may be sown in the open ; a deep rich soil suits them best. 
The rows may be 4 feet apart and 3 inches deep. Peas may also 
be sown on a warm sheltered border. They delight in a well- 
drained soil ; in fact it is no use sowing Peas in a cold wet soil at 
this season, as the seed would decay. Thick sowing should be 
the rule now. 
FRUIT-FORCING. 
Melons. —If ripe Melons are required by the end of April or 
beginning of May the seed should be sown now. At this early 
season sow the seeds singly in 3-inch pots of light turfy loam, not 
more than half filling the pots with soil, which will leave space 
for top-dressing when the plants require it, plunging to the rim in 
a hotbed made of fermenting materials, and cover the pots with a 
piece of clean glass, which, however, should be removed as soon 
as the plants appear. Almost every grower has his favourite 
variety, but we ■ may mention Davenham Early, Eastnor Castle, 
and William Tillery in green-fleshed varieties ; Scarlet Gem and 
Hero of Bath in scarlet-fleshed varieties. 
Cucumbers. — Every opportunity should be taken on bright days 
to make the most of the sun’s rays by closing early in the after¬ 
noon, sprinkling the house at the same time with tepid water. 
The pathways and other available surfaces should be damped 
every morning, and the plants also, using a very fine-rose syringe 
for the latter. Let tepid liquid manure in a weak state be given 
to plants growing freely. A top-dressing of two parts turfy loam 
and one of horse droppings brought to the same temperature as 
the house will greatly invigorate the plants. 
Some fermenting materials—two parts Oak or Beech leaves and 
one of stable litter—should be thrown together at once to make a 
hotbed, where no better means exist to raise young plants and 
subsequently to plant them in. The fermenting material, having 
been turned twice to allow the rank heat to escape, will then be 
in a fit state for making a hotbed, which should have a south 
aspect and have a wall, evergreen hedge, or other shelter from the 
north. The site should be higher than the ground surrounding it, 
so as to drain the water from the bed, or a few faggots placed 
underneath the hotbed will answer the same purpose. A bed 
about 6 feet high at the back and 5 feet high in the front will be 
necessary at this season to allow for shrinking, which will be fully 
one-third. When the bed is warmed through, as it will be in about 
a week with the frame and lights on, level any inequalities in the 
bed, placing sufficient fermenting material inside the frame to 
raise it to a uniform height; then 3 or 4 inches depth of short 
dung and 3 or 4 inches depth of sawdust for plunging the plants 
in, and when this is warmed through sow the seeds singly in 
3-inch pots of light rich soil, leaving room for top-dressing the 
