January ii, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
37 
regarded as true Christianity’s warmest friends .—(The Naturalist’s 
Leisure Hourl) 
IS WORK/offTHEWEEK,. v 
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[By the most skilful Cultivators in the several Departments .] 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Planting .—In favourable weather forward the planting so as to 
finish it before the end of the month. In so wet a winter the 
trees should be procured before the ground is touched, then pre¬ 
pare each station and plant the tree in it before starting with 
another, the object being to avoid stirring the soil and then 
leaving it to become saturated with ram before planting. In 
new gardens and orchards drain thoroughly before any planting is 
done, making the drains 30 feet apart, and from 2 to 4 feet deep, 
according to the nature and condition of the soil. In old gardens 
renew or repair the drains as appears necessary. Examine the 
soil with great care, and deepen or enrich it as seems Decessary. 
Never forget that a fruit tree is liable to suffer from canker and to 
decay early in a poor shallow soil, therefore see that every station 
has a depth of 2 feet of good soil and is 6 feet square. In old 
gardens there is no objection to planting young trees in the same 
place as the old trees grew in, provided due care is taken to remove 
all particles of old roots from the soil, and to renovate it with a 
dressing of lime and a little fresh soil. We have a heap of pond 
mud which was mixed with lime some eighteen months ago that 
we are using for this purpose now. 
Pruning .—Pruning all kinds of fruit trees, except Filberts and 
other Nuts, should be continued on every favourable day, so as to 
finish it in good time before the buds commence swelling. Let 
the condition of each tree be the guide in pruning. Unhealthy or 
weakly growth should never be retained. All the fruiting wood 
of a Noblesse Peach was found to be so weakly last January as to 
be incapable of bearing fine fruit. It was cut off at the expense 
of last year’s crop, but now the tree has magnificent fruiting wood, 
singularly sturdy, and thickly set with triple buds. There should 
be much caution in pruning Cherries. We have a fine collection 
of pyramids, which we used to prune closely till they were as 
large as we required them and were in full bearing. Since then 
hard pruning has been gradually discontinued, and a thinning of 
crowded growth is almost all that is required, very little of the 
young growth having to be shortened. The hard pruning of 
Cherries in full bearing leads to premature decay, and should be 
avoided as much as possible, even in the deepest richest loams. 
It is a rule in the large Kentish plantations to finish pruning bush 
fruits by the end of January. Very strong shoots are removed 
from all sorts except Black Currants, which cannot be too strong, 
and other growths are thinned so as to give free admission to light 
and air. Raspberries are shortened to 3 feet and have no sup¬ 
ports ; but in the garden we prefer the canes 4 feet 6 inches long, 
and tie them in rows to tarred string fastened to stakes driven in 
the ground along the rows at intervals of 6 feet. 
Training .—A healthy tree with every branch equally vigorous 
and fruitful, combined with a symmetrical shapely form, should be 
the end and aim of all training. Air and light should enter the 
tree freely to the base of every branch and among every cluster 
of spurs. To secure this will be to thin branches and spurs in 
the best way, and the eye will be the guide in this matter better 
than any stated distance apart could do. Let every branch point 
upwards, or at as acute an angle as possible. See that all tight 
shreds or strings be removed, so that there is no hurtful pinching 
or hindrance to the free growth of young trees. Carefully examine 
all wire stays, and loosen any that may require it. Neglected 
wire supports or fastenings are a greater and more frequent source 
of harm to fast-growing young trees than any other material used 
for training or supports. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Strawberries in Pots .—In order to secure a supply of ripe Straw¬ 
berries at the end of March or beginning of April the plants must 
be introduced to an early Peach house or vinery where the night 
temperature does not exceed 50° ; but as this will be the minimum 
of a vinery preference should be given to a Peach house, which 
will have a night or artificial temperature of 40° to 50°. The 
drainage should be examined and if necessary rectified, carefully 
removing all worms. The surface of the pots being loosened 
with a pointed stick and removed should be given a top-dressing 
of old Mushroom-bed refuse or something similar. Yicomtesse 
Hericart de Thury, La Grosse Sucr^e, and President are suitable 
varieties. Early varieties started last month will be slowly ad¬ 
vancing now. Take advantage of fine days to apply a little hea*-, 
and increasing the atmospheric moisture by sprinkling the paths, 
the plants being lightly syringed and afforded a proper supply 
of water at the roots. The night temperature must not greatly 
exceed 50° until the trusses are prominent, or they will be liable 
to become drawn and the flowers prove abortive. 
Peaches and Nectarines .—Where forcing was commenced early 
in December the buds on the most forward trees are now fully 
expanded, and should be dusted on fine days with a soft brush 
to distribute the pollen. Where fermenting materials have been 
used the moisture arising from them in combination with the 
damping of paths will be sufficient, and syringing the trees will 
be unnecessary until the fruit is set. Keep the ventilators open 
day and night unless the weather be very severe, and even then 
they should be left slightly open at the top of the house con¬ 
stantly. The night temperature should be maintained at 55°, or 
5° less in very severe weather, allowing a rise of 5° to 10° by day 
with fire heat, and 5° to 10° more from sun heat. Houses re¬ 
cently closed should have a night temperature of 45° to 50°, with 
a rise of 5° by day from fire heat and 10° to 15° from sun heat. 
Syringe twice a day, and allow a circulation of air constantly. 
If there be any aphides in the house fumigate before the flowers 
open. Complete the dressing of trees in late houses, and do not 
neglect the supply of water. 
Cherry House .—The trees in this structure being started the 
day temperature by artificial means should be kept steadily at 
50° to 55°, and the weather being fine it may be allowed to rise 
to 60° or 65°, but it must be from sun heat alone, admitting air 
more freely. Syringing must be attended to in the morning and 
early afternoon, and allow the night temperature to fall to 45° or 
40° in severe weather. See that the borders are well moistened, 
as frequent syringing in houses is likely to mislead as to the 
moisture at the roots. This more particularly applies to trees in 
pots. The watering is essential in encouraging root-action, which 
takes place simultaneously with growth ; indeed the root-action 
commences with the swelling of the buds. The water supplied 
should be about the same temperature as that of the house. 
Pines .—Let every attention be given to the Queen plants 
which are about to be started for the London season, keeping 
them well supplied with the requisite heat and moisture. Main¬ 
tain the night temperature at 70°, not allowing it to fall below 65° 
in the severest weather, 70° to 75° by day, and 80° to 90° under 
solar heat, closing the house at 85°, and giving a slight damping 
overhead about twice a week. Similar treatment will need to be 
given fruiting plants. In successional houses provide a mean 
temperature of 60° at night, 65° to 70° in the day, and 80° from 
sun heat. Suckers should have a temperature of 55° or a few 
degrees higher, and 60° to 65° by day. See to the supply of soil, 
as the time is fast approaching when properly prepared soil and 
other requisites will be wanted. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Greenhouse.— Epacrises, Erica hyemalis, and other early varieties 
that have been flowering in the conservatory and are past their 
best should be cut close back. Some care and attention must be 
devoted to these plants after removal from any structure that is 
warmer than the ordinary greenhouse, for if placed at once in a 
cold house they will be seriously checked. If possible give them 
a temperature of 45° to 50° according to the weather, and keep 
the house or pit in which they are placed a little closer for a 
few weeks. Ericas will not long endure a close atmosphere, and 
thrive best when once fairly started into growth with abundant 
ventilation. The former will be much benefited if encouraged 
by moderate heat in their early stages of growth when required 
for flowering in early winter, than to have to force them into 
flower when wanted. E. gracilis, E. Caffra, and others are very 
liable to the attacks of mildew. At its first appearance dew the 
affected parts with the syringe and apply sulphur. Avoid a stag¬ 
nant damp atmosphere, which is detrimental to Heaths. These, 
as well as all hardwooded varieties, should be kept as cool as 
possible by free ventilation, and apply fire heat on fine days to 
expel damp. 
Keep a sharp look-out for aphides, which will appear at this 
season upon Pelargoniums, Calceolarias, and Cinerarias. This 
pest increases rapidly on these plants, and should at its first 
appearance be destroyed by fumigating with tobacco paper for 
two or three successive nights, which is preferable to one strong 
application. 
Stove .—Gardenias that have been kept in a night temperature 
