JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
January 18, 1883 ] 
47 
removing the plants after the foliage has died. The best way to 
increase this plant is by division of the roots, for although it 
flowers very freely I have never been fortunate in obtaining seeds, 
but probably this has been an oversight. The old plants should 
be lifted and divided. The strongest pieces will flower the follow¬ 
ing autumn, and if a favourable season many of the smaller ones 
will produce a few flowers. If it is desirable to have a bed or a 
large clump of them, the strongest should be selected for the 
middle, the medium-sized plants following, and the smaller ones 
for the outside ; by so planting all the flowering plants will be 
together. I find the general height of this plant is given at 
between 2 and 3 feet, but under good cultivation it greatly exceeds 
this height. A rich loam suits it well with a top-dressing of de¬ 
cayed leaves and manure forked in through the winter.—G. W. 
A SOUTH-WESTERN ASPECT FOR GRAPES. 
The readers of the Journal must not infer from the above that 
it is the best aspect in which to grow Grapes, but that as good 
results can be obtained from houses erected in a south-western 
aspect as from any other, all other things being equal. Those 
who have to buy ground for the purpose of erecting houses for 
the production of maiket Grapes, not only build on the most 
favourable aspects, but through necessity more than choice on 
aspects less favourable. The ground is economised t© admit of 
the greatest quantity of glass being built in a given space ; they 
would be taking the money out of their own pockets if they did 
not do so. In many gardens there are to be seen considerable 
ranges of houses in what may be termed westerly aspects, espe¬ 
cially in market establishments. The Vines are selected for the 
different positions, and consequently give as great satisfaction as 
those which are growing in more favourable circumstances. The 
south-western aspect is not good for Vines that require to be 
early started, as fire heat must be used in excess to raise the 
morning temperature ; but if their roots are all inside and under 
command they are not long in regaining what was lost. A south 
aspect is the best for growing most kinds of fruit, whether they 
may be planted in span-roofed or lean-to houses. A south aspect 
with a point east is held in great favour by some of the best 
Grape-growers of the present day, and especially those who 
believe the morning sun has a great influence on colouring white 
Grapes, Muscats in particular. Equally good Grape-growers, on 
the other hand, seem to think the effect of the morning sun in 
colouring very questionable, and that good cultivation carried out 
with the houses facing south can produce equally good results. 
Houses that incline eastward have the advantage of both a 
quick and high temperature in the early part of the day, instead 
of raising the temperature by fire heat. The advantage gained in 
the morning by an early rise from sun heat may be said to be 
counterbalanced by the heat being early out of the house in the 
afternoon, but when closed early with a high temperature and 
accompanied by a little fire heat in the pipes, the effects are as 
beneficial to the Vines as in cases where the sun lingers a little 
longer in the afternoon.— Northern. 
CARNATIONS AND PICOTEES FOR BEDS. 
The best time to plant Carnations and Picotees is October, as 
they become thoroughly established in the soil, whilst otherwise 
they require frequent examination to keep them from being 
disturbed by the frost. This season having been so wet has pre¬ 
vented planting as yet, but now I shall commence planting them 
the third week in February as I did last year. Another advan¬ 
tage of growing them in beds is that they do not require planting 
every year as they do when in pots, as the finest blooms are gene¬ 
rally to be had from them the second year. All surplus plants 
when layered can be removed, leaving about four plants to each 
stool. 
A plot of ground that has been occupied by Potatoes is most 
suitable for them, as the wireworm will have been taken out with 
the Potatoes. If a Potato patch is not to be had dig the ground 
over, carefully destroying all the wirew'orms that can be seen. 
The most suitable soil for them is a good marl. The Carnation 
is, however, very accommodating and will grow in nearly any 
kind. I have used light soil, pressing it firmly around the 
plants, whilst in strong soil I do not press the soil so firmly. In 
planting I raise the beds a few inches above the surrounding 
ground, planting the plants in twos or threes according to their 
strength. The clumps are a foot apart and 15 to 18 inches be¬ 
tween the rows. Only two rows are placed in a bed, leaving a 
pathway between that and the next bed, so that they are con¬ 
venient for layering. A plan I adopt with particular sorts is to 
lift them and pot and layer them; by doing this the plants will 
give seed after layering. Mr. Dodwell was the first to inform me 
of this, and I have since proved it to be so. The plants after 
being layered in the ordinary way never set any seed. 
If the ground is poor it is a good plan to dig in some well- 
decomposed manure, that from an old hotbed will do very well. 
Before planting thoroughly incorporate it, and if at all sour give 
a sprinkling of lime, digging it in a few days before planting. 
If these simple cultural directions are followed any grower may 
succeed in growing Carnations and Picotees in beds. I will give 
a few simple cultural directions occasionally on growing the plants 
in beds. 
The following is a list of the varieties I have found the best 
suited for culture in beds :— 
CARNATIONS. 
Scarlet Bizarres. — Admiral Curzon, John Burnett, Edward 
Adams. 
Crimson Bizarres. —Rifleman, Lord Milton, J. D. Hextall. 
Pink and Purple Bizarres. — Falconbridge, Win. Murray, 
Sarah Payne. 
Purple Flakes. —Dr. Foster, Jas. Douglas, and Squire Meynell. 
Scarlet Flakes. —Dan Godfrey, Sportsman, and Clipper. 
Bose Flakes. —Sibyl, John Keet, and Rose of Stapleford. 
PICOTEES. 
Heavy Bed. —John Smith, J. B. Bryant, Brunette. 
Light Bad. —Sarah Elizabeth, Thomas William, Violet Douglas. 
Heavy Purple. —Alliance, Zerlina, Tinnie. 
Light Purple. —Ann Lord, Alice (medium), Master Nichol, and 
Her Majesty. 
Heavy Bose or Scarlet. —Fanny Hellen, Lady Holmesdale, and 
Mrs. Rudd. 
Light Bose or Scarlet. —Mrs. Adams, Mrs. Allcroft, and Miss 
Wood.—G. Rudd. 
MAKING AND RENOVATING LAWNS. 
Lawns are made for the purpose of ornamentation, for recrea¬ 
tion, or for both, but in the latter case there is the disadvantage 
of their being disfigured from being browned or made patchy. 
It is always advisable, when practicable, to have separate grounds 
for recreation, and these should be so extensive as to admit of a 
change, so that when one part becomes at all unsightly it may be 
allowed to recover its freshness. 
As ground for recreation depends in a great measure upon the 
goodness of the turf—its even surface, closeness, and toughness, 
with freshness—it is essential that the ground be good, and if not 
naturally such its improvement must be effected to secure a good 
growth of grass, whether by sowing seeds or laying turf. Efficient 
drainage is of primary importance, and not less so is the loosening 
of the soil to an even depth to admit of the water passing through 
the soil readily. Heavy soils will be improved in texture and 
allow of the water percolating freely away by a free mixing of 
ashes with the soil, and light soils by an admixture of w T ell-pul- 
verised clay, so as to render it more retentive of moisture. To 
allow' of the water passing away from the surface speedily after 
showers it is not unusual to cover the surface before laying the 
turf wdth a couple of inches thickness of ashes ; or, if the turf is 
to be obtained by sowing, cover the ashes with a couple of inches 
of fine rich soil. This answers well enough in heavy soil, but 
where the soil is sandy and the subsoil of a porous nature is both 
superfluous and injurious. 
Where good turf is to be had it is the readiest method of secur¬ 
ing a good sward, but, failing this, grass seeds sown in proper 
season will soon make a good turf. The most suitable time for 
sowing grass seeds is during April, and preferably in dry calm 
weather, but with an early prospect of rain. Soils differ some¬ 
what in texture, and the mixture will need to be composed of 
grass seeds suitable to the soil ; but, as a rule, it should be com¬ 
posed principally of the harder-textured grasses, as the Hard Fes¬ 
cue (Festuca duriuscula), Red Fescue (Festuca rubra), Fine-leaved 
Fescue (Festuca tenuifolia), and that best of all lawn grasses, 
Crested Dog’s-tail (Cynosurus cristatus). A small proportion of 
Perennial Rye Grass (Lolium perenne), of which Pacey’s is a fine 
selection, should be added to act as nurses to the finer grasses and 
aid in the speedier formation of the sward. Clovers should be 
excluded, for though they soon make a beautiful surface, it will 
not bear the same amount of use as turf formed of the harder- 
textured grasses, and is liable to remain longer damp after rain 
or dew. 
Then as to the surroundings of grounds for recreation, it is 
absolutely necessary that they be not of too close or dense a 
character as to prevent the free access of air, and yet they should 
be sufficiently compact and high to secure privacy. Stiff 
