JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
62 
[ January 18. 1883. 
digging up the crop there were no bulged heads except among those particular 
plants which the men endeavoured to make “ solider,” most of which were 
spoiled, not one being straight as it should have been. You can now decide for 
yourself wherein you have erred, for it is certain that either of the mistakes we 
have indicated will spoil Celery by causing it to bulge below in consequence of 
the great resistance of the firm soil above preventing its free upward growth. 
Grafting Plums and Cherries ( Trike ).—We gave you instructions for 
budding in compliance with your wish. This method of propagation is much 
better than grafting, which frequently predisposes the trees to gumming, and 
this is an evil to be avoided. Very few Cherry and Plum trees are grafted in the 
best fruit nurseries ; still, grafting can be done. The present is the time for 
taking off the scions, placing them in soil in a cool position to retard the swell¬ 
ing of the buds, the time for grafting being when the stocks show signs of 
growth, proving that the sap has commenced rising. The stock should be in 
advance of the scions. The method of grafting depends on the size of the stocks. 
We shall probably make the matter plain to you in time to be of service. Cherry 
stocks are raised from seed of the ordinary varieties, gathered and kept in sand 
until February, then sown in drills, and the young trees transplanted in October. 
For dwarf trees the Mahaleb stock is preferred, and propagation is effected by 
layers. The Brussels and Muscle stocks are used for Plums, and are raised from 
suckers, layers, and seed. 
Double Petunias (F. J .).—Young plants raised annually are usually the 
most vigorous and produce the largest flowers. They can be raised either from 
seed or by cuttings at any time when a minimum temperature of 65° can be 
maintained in a frame heated with fermenting materials or a propagating house. 
When very large specimens are coveted, those old plants that produce fresh 
growths from the lower parts of the stems will afford them if the plants are 
cut down, very carefully removing a portion of the old soil from the roots, 
repotting in smaller pots, growing in a light house having a temperature of 
55°, shifting, stopping, and training as needed. 
Liquid Manure for Bulbs {Idem .).—An ounce of nitrate of soda dis¬ 
solved in four gallons of water is a quick and good stimulant for bulbs, to be 
applied twice a week after the pots are filled with roots and the flower spikes 
are fairly visible. A large handful of soot or about a pint, tied up in a piece of 
old canvas and immersed in the same quantity of water for a day or two, will 
give you a safe and excellent stimulant; also good and safe is a quarter of a 
pound of fresh cowdung mixed in a large garden pot of water and used as 
required. Any of these stimulants will do good, as the whole of them applied 
alternately will benefit bulbs that need more sustenance than the soil affords. 
Let the twin plants grow, as if you remove one of them the number of flowers 
will not increase on the other, nor would they be appreciably larger if the plant 
is well supported. For reference to Violets see our reply to “L.L. D.” You 
will be sorry to hear, as we are, that our correspondent “ Single-handed ” is 
seriously ill again, but will be glad to hear of your kind inquiry ; and we are 
obliged by your good wishes. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— JANUARY 17th. 
Trade remains quiet with no alteration. Grapes continue to be supplied 
freely. Vegetables plentiful. 
FRUIT. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
Apples. 
J sieve 
2 
0to7 
0 
Grapes . 
lb. 
2 
Otos 
0 
0 
40 
o 
10 
o 
20 
o 
Apricots.i 
doz. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Melons. 
each 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Cherries. 
4 sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Nectarines.. 
dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Chestnuts. 
bushel 10 
0 
12 
0 
Oranges .... 
100 
6 
0 
10 
0 
Currants, Black.. 
4 sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Peaches .... 
dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
>, Red.... 
4 sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Pears,kitchen .. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Figs. 
dozen 
0 
8 
1 
0 
dessert ... 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Filberts. 
lb. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Pine Apples, English fb. 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Cobs. 
100 lb . 50 
0 
55 
0 
lb. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Gooseberries .... 
^ sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Strawberries 
• • • • 
lb. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
VEGETABLES. 
8 
d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d- 
dozen 
2 
0to4 
0 
1 
ftt.nl 
6 
Asparagus. 
bundle 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Mushroom s 
punnet 
i 
0 
i 
6 
Beans,Kidney.... 
100 
i 
0 
0 
0 
Mustard & Cress . 
punnet 
0 
2 
0 
8 
Beet, Red. 
dozen 
i 
0 
2 
0 
Onions. 
bushel 
2 
3 
2 
6 
Broccoli. 
bundle 
0 
9 
1 
8 
Parsley. 
doz. bunches 
3 
0 
4 
0 
Brussels Sprouts.. 
} sieve 
1 
e 
2 
0 
Parsnips .... 
dozen 
I 
0 
2 
0 
Cabbage . 
dozen 
0 
6 
1 
0 
Peas . 
quart 
0 
0 
8 
0 
Capsicums. 
100 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Potatoes .... 
cwt. 
8 
0 
7 
8 
Carrots . 
bunch 
0 
4 
0 
0 
Kidney.... 
cwt. 
8 
0 
8 
0 
Cauliflowers. 
dozen 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Radishes.... 
doz. bunches 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Celery. 
bundle 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Rhubarb. 
bundle 
0 
4 
0 
0 
Coleworts_doz. bunches 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Salsafy. 
bundle 
X 
0 
0 
0 
Cucumbers. 
each 
i 
6 
2 
0 
Scorzbnera . 
bundle 
i 
8 
0 
8 
Endive. 
dozen 
i 
0 
2 
0 
Seakale . 
basket 
i 
0 
2 
0 
Fennel. 
bunch 
0 
8 
0 
0 
Shallots. 
lb. 
o 
3 
0 
0 
Garlic . 
lb. 
0 
6 
0 
0 
Spinach . 
bushel 
8 
0 
0 
0 
Herbs . 
bunch 
2 
0 
0 
Tomatoes .. 
tb. 
0 
8 
1 
0 
Leeks. 
bunch 
0 
8 
0 
4 
Turnips .... 
bunch 
0 
2 
0 
8 
Renovating Vines (/. Smith, Surrey). —According to your description of 
them the Vines of which you have taken charge are in a very unsatisfactory 
state, and your first proposition if it could have been carried out would not only 
have been the most satisfactory, but in the end the most economical, as the 
value of the fruit would have been so much greater than the produce of 
exhausted Vines however well they may be managed. But gentlemen do not 
always regard matters from a purely commercial point of view, and if they do 
they have reasons for not desiris^ to invest their money as a gardener may 
naturally wish. In such a case as yours a gardener must simply accept the 
position and make the best of it. This we are sure you will do, and your letter 
affords evidence that you will do all that can be done towards restoring the lost 
vigour of the neglected Vines. We do not think you can adopt a better plan 
than the one you propose, of trenching the border, making good the drainage, 
utilising the good soil, and replacing the bad with the best compost at your 
disposal, cutting off the old roots at the bottom of the border, and placing the 
smaller and healthier in good soil nearer the surface, and leaving 4 feet next the 
house untrenched at present, but enriched for supporting the crop next season. 
In lifting the roots we should notch them at intervals, making a straight cut 
downwards and half through the roots, meeting it with a cut slanting upwards. 
These roots we should surronnd with fresh compost, consisting in great part of 
wood ashes. Even if only placed round them an inch or two thick, you will find it 
of great advantage in facilitating the emission of fresh roots, and the border 
should be mulched for keeping the surface moist in the summer. It is surface 
drought and disturbing the border by digging that drives the roots of Vines 
downwards. The heat from the sun will never attract them to the surface, as 
some persons erroneously suppose, if the soil is loose and dry. In addition to 
improving the border we should at once cut down every alternate cane to the 
bottom of the rafter. You have nothing to lose by doing this, as the rods are 
far too numerous, but we think you have much to gaiu, as in all probability 
fresh growths will start from the shortened rods, and by selecting the best from 
each you may with better root-action succeed in obtaining good young canes the 
first season ; or, if rather weak, you would by cutting them down again insure 
stout growths and fine canes next year, these to be treated as young Vines. In 
the meantime the existing rods will, if not too much exhausted, maintain the 
supply of Grapes ; but to effect this in the best manner we should not spur-in 
the laterals closely, but should retain the best of them, shortening at the most 
prominent bud where the wood is hard and matured. Whether each bud is 
3 inches from the main rod or thrice that distance, tying if needful these 
shortened, but still long, bearing portions to the main rod. The base buds of 
exhausted Vims are always weak and produce weak growths and small bunches, 
if any, the bolder buds producing stronger growths and, provided the wood is 
ripened, better bunches. By carrying out this method intelligently and disbud¬ 
ding freely, disposing the best growths thinly for a future crop, you will possibly 
be surprised by the results. We have proved the value of this practice, and have 
seen it carried out by others in the most satisfactory manner until the young 
canes trained between the bearing rods have attained a strong free-bearing 
state, the older portions being then in turn cut out. We desirod to answer your 
letter fully, as our reply may be of service to others, hence the little delay that 
has occurred in attending to the matter, as an earlier answer would have been 
necessarily shorter and consequently less useful. 
Names of Fruits (William Ileale ).—The Apple is Pigeon. The Pear is 
Martin Sec, a very old French variety. (IF. Henry Ashmn).— 1, Trumpington. 
The other we do not recognise; it possesses little or no merit. 
Names of Plants (J. C.). —1, Davallia tenuifolia ; 2, Libonia penrhosiensis. 
(Subscriber). —1, Abies lasiocarpa; 2, Juniperus chinensis, the male form ; 3, Pinus 
Lambertiana; 4, Pinus Cembra ; 5, Abies canadensis ; 6, Cedrus, probably 
Deodara. It is highly desirable that the habits of the trees be stated when sprays 
are sent for naming. 
POULTRY AND PIGEON CHRONICLE. 
GOAT FARMING. 
(Continued frontpage 41.) 
We have stated the peculiarities of certain species of Goats, 
and wish to name all the best sorts which are all likely by 
crossing to contribute to the improvement of the capacity of 
yielding milk, meat, and mohair. Having, through the ex¬ 
perience and intelligence of breeders both of cattle and sheep, 
obtained all that we require, this is a good reason why we should 
be able to accomplish and obtain what we desire in breeding 
Goats in order that Goat-farming may become a profitable pursuit, 
and at the same time interesting to amateurs. 
It is necessary to know the habits and capabilities of the best 
varieties before we can attempt cross-breeding, and this is ex¬ 
tremely necessary, simply because no single pure breed will yield 
all we wish for to the fullest extent. We, therefore, now refer to 
the Angora Goat ; and as we find it well described by the same 
author we have previously quoted, Mr. S. Holmes, in an essay 
in the “Live Stock Journal Almanack,” and his description is 
the best we have met with. He says :—“ The Angora Goat differs 
considerably both from the common Goat and from the Cashmere, 
although with the latter it is often confounded. It is met with 
in Asia Minor under almost as great a diversity of form, size, and 
characteristic as are our own in England, some being a reddish- 
brown, others white, and at times even quite black. Their 
ears also vary from being short and almost upright to moderately 
long and pendant. The horns, in like manner, are of various 
descriptions ; in some cases nearly perpendicular, in others 
curling laterally, but always more or less spirally inclined. 
Even the true Angora—that is to say, the breeds which are 
cultivated for producing the finest and best mohair, are not all 
of the same type, equally good clips being obtained from some 
of the small half-pricked-eared varieties as from the lops, whilst 
again, although most of the herds are white, there are brown and 
occasionally black animals which yield heavy fleeces. 
