82 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 25, 1883. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and 
should never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Books (G.S.). — Mr. B. S. Williams’ work on stove and greenhouse plants 
will suit you. It can be obtained at the nurseries, Upper Holloway, but we 
believe a new edition will shortly be issued. 
Pine Apple Culture (C. E. I’.). —IVe have notes in band from the 
correspondent you name, but they did not reach us in time for publication in 
the present issue. 
Planting Peaches and Apricots (P. II. P .).—As chalk can be obtained 
without difficulty in your neighbourhood, you cannot do better than apply it to 
the soil you describe. Spread it 2 or 3 inches thick, forking it into the border, 
and with otherwise good management your trees will flourish. 
The Jew's-ear Fungus (H. if .).—The botanical name of theJew’s-ear 
fungus is Hirneola (Exidia) Auricula-Judm, and is occasionally termed the 
Jew’s-ear Peziza. It was formerly supposed to possess medicinal properties, 
being specially recommended as a gargle for diseases of the throat, bu t its 
qualities in this respect are quite imaginary. It is more frequently found g row¬ 
ing on trees, particularly on Elder and Elm. The following are the name and 
address you require :—Mr. J. Colam, 105, Jermyu Street, London. 
Potatoes for Planting an Acre ( Iiood ).—Your letter is extremely 
vague, as obviously the weight of sets for an acre depends not on their size alo ne, 
but on the distances at which they are to be planted. As 3 r ou afford us no d ata 
on these important points we can only suggest a case. Suppose the sets are 
planted a foot apart in rows 30 inches asunder, 17,424 will be required for an 
acre ; and if they average 2 ozs. each their total weight will be 19 cwt. 1 qr. 22 lbs. 
By weighing a few sets and deciding on the distances for planting you will now 
have no difficulty in making an approximate estimate of the weight you will 
require. 
Exposing Stems of Peach Trees ( J. E.). —It would certainly be un 
desirable to expose the stems of the trees to the sun, nor do we see that there is 
any necessity f r doing so, nor for having the stems further from the glass on 
that account. By training young shoots up the stems and securing them there 
they will do all that is required in the way of affording shade, and will produce 
fruits as well as the others that are trained between the stems, overcrowding of 
the foliage not being permitted in either case. We should prefer having the 
wires a little further from the glass, but with a free and careful system of 
ventilation your plan will answer. Other plans of shading the stems is by 
pinching the foreright shoots to two leaves, or, if no such shoots are produced, 
encasing the stems neatly with haybands. 
Propagating Arbutuses (/, II .).—Fork in some light gritty soil round 
the shrub, and in this peg those young growths that have become slightly firm 
sufficiently deep that the buried parts will be moist in summer, and let them 
remain till rooted, which may be two years. Twisting the stems so as just to 
rupture the bark facilitates the emission of roots. 
Wiring Garden Walls (/. R.). —We think the plan good, and in the 
end economical. The wire used may be galvanised, No. 13, and for Peaches, 
Nectarines, and Apricots should be 5 inches apart, and for Pears, Plums, and 
Apples 9 inches. The wires should be taken horizontally along the wall, guided 
by eyed wall nails or hooks, and secured at both ends with spikes or eyed nails, 
and tightened by raidisseurs. The wires should be fixed as close to the wall as 
possible to allow for tying—not more than three-quarters of an inch from it; 
ours are about half an inch, and we find raffia a good material for tying. We 
never give estimates of cost, this being quite beyond our province. Consult our 
advertising columns and write for the particulars you require. 
Cypripedium insigne (T. C. , Bath ).—Overpotting does not promote free- 
flowering, but in your case the plants are no doubt kept too close, moist, and 
warm. After the plants have made their growth they should be removed to a 
house where they can have abundance of air, a light position in a vinery being 
suitable. A drier atmosphere as the summer advances and not too much water 
induces a partial rest, which is conducive to free-flowering. You will find the 
requisite details for growing this useful plant on page 111, vol. xxxviii.,the issue 
of February 12th, 1880. 
Camellia Buds Falling (IF. H., Liverpool ).—There is no doubt what¬ 
ever that the dry heated air from the hot-water pipes is the chief cause of the 
evil; it is possible, too, that the plants in pots do not have the support they need, 
and a gentle stimulant such as soot water might be beneficial. If the stage is 
of open latticework you would do well to cover it with something that would 
hold a layer of gravel, and by keeping this moist and syringing the pots occa¬ 
sionally the flowers of the Camellias would probably expand. 
Grafting Vines (York ).—The method of grafting you propose is not a 
good one for Vines, as there is often such an escape of sap that the scion is 
flooded. By far the better plan will be to inarch or bottle-graft. The latter 
method is almost certain to succeed. You might attach two grafts, one on 
each side of the stem. Both would probably grow, and you could choose the 
best for the future Vine. In the unlikely event of both failing you would still 
have the Vine instead of a blank in the house for a year. Select stout and well- 
matured laterals, taking a deep slice out of the centre, 5 or 6 inches long, and a 
corresponding slice from the Vine ; secure the two cut surfaces carefully and 
bind with soft matting or tape, the lower end of the graft, 6 inches or so, to be 
inserted in a winebottle which should be kept filled with water. This will 
support the graft until the union is complete. For further details and particu¬ 
lars of a remarkable example of success with this method of grafting, see page 76, 
vol. xxiv., the issue of January 23rd, 1872, which can be had, if needed, from the 
publisher in return for 3Jd. in postage stamps. 
Raspberries and Gooseberries (R. II. R .).—We doubt if there is a 
more useful Raspberry than Carter’s Prolific, which was raised by Mr. Carter 
of Keighley, and lately advertised in our columns. It is sturdy in habit, and 
produces large fruit abundantly of good colour and quality. It is the favourite 
variety with Kentish growers, some of whom send several tons of fruit to the 
market daily during the season. Prince of Wales is a most serviceable kind, 
growing more strongly and possibly giving a greater weight of fruit than the 
other, large but perhaps not quite of such good quality. There is no more use¬ 
ful Gooseberry than the Red Warrington for either culinary or dessert purposes. 
The richest-flavoured variety is the Red Champagne. If you want, say, a dozen 
bushes plant nine of the former and three of the latter, and you may expect a 
satisfactory supply of fruit. 
Pruning Plum and Cherry Trees ( Old Subscriber). —Judging by the 
wood you have sent the Plum trees must be in an exhausted state, and probably 
the “ spurs ” are not only too long but too numerous. The young growths before 
us are very weak and immature. We should shorten such shoots to one or two 
eyes, according to the character of each shoot and the prominence of the buds 
near the base of the growths. No harm could result by thinning out a portion 
of the old spurs with the object of obtaining fresh growths, to either be pinched 
in summer for the formation of spurs or retained and secured to the wall where 
this could be done without overcrowding. Even if no fresh growths were pro¬ 
duced the original spurs would be strengthened, as the resources of the trees 
would be concentrated in fewer channels. For further instructions read our 
“ Work for the Week.” If the Cherry trees furnish the wall sufficiently, shorten 
the breastwood, but next year pinch the growths a few times in the summer, 
and there will be less necessity for winter pruning, which it is desirable to avoid 
as much as possible. 
Single Dahlias in Pots (C. />.).—It will be well not to have the plants 
too early, as they will become drawn if long kept in a greenhouse. If you can 
procure sturdy plants from a cool house or pit during the last week in April, 
place them on a shelf in your greenhouse for a day or two, then shift them into 
pots 2 or 3 inches wider than those in which they arrive, using a compost of 
turfy loam three parts, the remainder equal portions of leaf soil and decayed 
manure, adding sand to make the whole porous. As soon as the weather per¬ 
mits place them in the frame. When roots protrude through the pots transfer 
the plants to larger, 6-inch pots being suitable, using richer soil by substituting 
manure for the leaf soil, and adding a little soot—about a twentieth part of the 
bulk. Apply water carefully at first, and afterwards more copiously, ventilating 
freely and removing the lights on all favourable occasions, eventually at night 
as well as during the day. Before these pots are crowded with roots place the 
plants in 8 or 9-inch pots, pressing an inch or two of manure over the drainage, 
and a sprinkling of soot, using richer and stronger soil than before; plunge the 
plants in ashes in a sunny yet sheltered position, and treat them the same as 
Chrysanthemums. When crowded with roots liquid manure will be of service, 
and eventually top-dressings of rich compost. The following good and free- 
flowering varieties :—Alba (White Queen), gracilis superba, scarlet ; glabrata, 
lilac ; Othello, crimson; Rose Queen, Tyro, mauve ; Painted Lady, Yellow Gem, 
and Zulu. 
Syringing Peach Blossom (F. C., Inver). — We think you will have 
destroyed the aphides, and hope you have not injured the Peach blossoms. We 
have never tried nor recommended a “ paraffin mixture at a temperature of 130° 
for Peach blossoms ; ” our method is to destroy all insects before the blossoms 
expand by fumigating and syringing. We should not like to syringe Peach 
blossoms at all so early in the season, and especially if the weather were dull, 
for fear of converting the pollen into paste, and preventing fertilisation and a 
good set of fruit. In dry, bright, breezy weather we have syringed Peach trees 
occasionally when in flower, and have obtained fine crops of fruit. 
Various (Idem). —Chrysanthemums may be cut down as soon as the flowers 
have faded, but leaving them until the stems decay does no harm. It is not too 
late to obtain and pot Tuberoses. Pot them and bury in cocoa-nut fibre refuse 
as you would Hyacinths, and in the course of a few weeks place the pots in 
gentle heat, a little bottom heat being useful but not essential. Lilium lanci- 
folium should not be placed in heat at any time, a greenhouse temperature being 
quite sufficient. Tropseolum speciosum may be planted now if you can obtain 
roots, and have them kept quite moist with damp moss in transit. In dry dis¬ 
tricts it is better with a north aspect; in Scotland and moist localities no par¬ 
ticular aspect is requisite. We do not know what you mean by the Passion¬ 
flower Clematis. The remaining questions shall be attended to next week ; we 
have answered the most urgent. You usually send your questions rather late ; 
the earlier they arrive after the date of publication the fuller and more useful, 
as a rule, are our replies. 
Destroying Weeds on Walks (Somerset). — Whatever you apply to 
walks of sufficient strength to kill weeds will injure both Box or grass edgings 
if they are not protected with boards, or if care is not otherwise exercised in 
preventing either carbolic acid or salt reaching the edgings. We are not able 
to say whether “ J. H.” (page 385, vol. iv.), applies salt to walks margined with 
Box, but if this meet his eye he will perhaps supply the information. In the 
other case to which you refer there were no Box edgings to be injured. We 
should not remove the mats from the Eucalyptus until the spring or when 
severe frosts are no longer expected. Your other question will be answered next 
week. 
Exhausted Azaleas (Jumbo).— If you cannot improve the condition of 
the plants by applications of liquid manure, that made from cowdung being 
good if used clear, and of the colour of pale ale, or by top-dressings by fertilisers, 
Standen’s manure being suitable for these plants, then you must adopt another 
method. The pots it appears are already as large as you require, but instead of 
shaking the roots out it will probably be a better plan to shave off a portion of 
the ball, formed by a mass of roots, with a strong sharp knife. We have seen a 
small sharp axe used for this purpose, and a slice cut off all round 2 or 3 inches 
thick, as much as possible of the old soil being also scraped off the surface. It 
• is not unlikely that most of the roots next the sides of the pot are dead, but the 
stronger roots in the interior may be alive ; these if placed in contact with fresh 
soil and the plants carefully watered will probably emit young fibres, and thus 
the health of the plants may be restored. Good turfy peat such as Heaths 
delight in, not a mere spongy mass of decayed vegetation, and a liberal admix¬ 
ture of silver sand will be suitable for placing round the roots. If the peat at 
your disposal is not of the proper kind, then you may mix with the best you 
have a little sweet leaf soil and light turfy loam. It is of the greatest import¬ 
ance that the roots are in a moist but not wet medium when the plants are 
repotted, aud they must be soaked if necessary for a few hours to thoroughly 
moisten the original soil, then allowed to drain. In repotting the pots must be 
clean and well drained, the new soil to be pressed as firmly as the old, otherwise 
the water will drain off the former and saturate the latter. If good judgment 
be exercised in watering and the plants are placed in a brisk temperature and 
syringed frequently they will possibly recover. In all probability pruning will 
not be needed, at any rate so freely as you suggest, but the flower buds should 
be picked off, and any dead and very inferior portions cut out. We have rein¬ 
vigorated Azaleas in the manner indicated, but success depends entirely on the 
skill and attention of the cultivator in watering aud otherwise ministering to 
the requirements of the plants. 
Fuchsias and Pelargoniums (J. B.).— Unless you can syringe the 
plants occasionally in the structure in which you keep rabbits the atmosphere 
will be too dry for the Fuchsias if not for the Pelargoniums. You will do well 
to defer purchasing plants until May, and then have them strong, well-furnished, 
and established in 5-inch pots. By shifting them into pots 2 inches larger when 
the roots show through the drainage of the others, and watering carefully at 
