JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
98 
very soon show that this is simply a condition of their youth, for 
after awhile this character is no longer appended to the description 
of their qualities. 
What then 1 Are we to abandon their culture altogether ? We 
hardly like to do that, and there are two things in our favour. In 
the first place the prices of really good varieties have been so 
much diminished of late years by the French growers that fine 
varieties can be obtained for a trifle, Meyerbeer, Schiller, Eugene 
Scribe, Norma, Le Phare, and others of good exhibition kinds in¬ 
cluded amongst them. We do not mind giving sums like these 
for Hyacinths, which only last for the season, or for Lilium 
auratum, which very often dies after its first year of blooming ; 
and so we may be content to grow our Gladiolus on the chance 
of getting a season’s bloom out of them. It may be very dis¬ 
couraging, but I think that we must accept the inevitable. Then 
there is another hope for us—the reproduction of the varieties by 
the spawn or small corms which are formed round the base of the 
corm in all sorts of odd ways. These should all be removed, 
put into small paper bags, and then sown in the early spring. I 
prefer to sow mine in pots, and then when they have started well 
to turn them out into the open ground. Others, where the quantity 
is large, sow them in drills in the open at once, having properly 
prepared the ground previously. Some varieties produce these 
small corms very freely, others very sparsely indeed, and hence 
some which have been in commerce for many years are still as 
dear as they were. I have taken off one plant of Horace Vernet 
one hundred small ones, while I have taken up a dozen of Adolphe 
Brogniart without obtaining a single cormlet. 
There were some fine flowers amongst those sent out from Fon- 
tainbleau last year. Opale is of a peculiar fresh colour ; Mount 
Etna and Fiambozante are fine scarlet flowers; while Mdlle. 
Marie Verdale is a fine salmon-coloured flower, striped with ver¬ 
milion and scarlet; but the season was unfavourable for judging 
of the merits of these new flowers. Mr. Kelway, as usual, sent 
out a goodly number of varieties, and doubtless there were some 
fine flowers amongst them ; but I have not had an opportunity of 
seeing them. 
My first notes are not very encouraging, but one must speak the 
truth ; and when I see good people narrating their success I am 
inclined to say, “Let not him that putteth on his harness boast 
against him that putteth it off.” Let him bide a wee, and after 
three or four years’ time he will join in the assertion that the 
Gladiolus, beautiful and striking though it is, is a trying and 
disappointing flower.—D., Deal . 
CRINODENDRON IIOOKERIANUM. 
This very distinct and beautiful evergreen shrub (fig. 23, p. 97) is 
botanically related to the Lime, but in general appearance possess¬ 
ing no resemblance whatever to that well-known tree. It is a native 
of South Chili, where, however, it is by no means abundant, and 
whence, it was first introduced by Messrs. J. Veitch & Sons, Chelsea, 
in 1880. As might be expected from the locality in which it is 
found, it requires very little heat, and a greenhouse temperature 
suits it admirably. It can be grown in a compost of peat, loam, 
and sand, the two former in equal proportions, and sufficient of 
the latter to render the soil porous. 
The leaves are lance-shaped or narrowly egg-shaped, the flowers 
being produced singly or in pairs from the axils of the leaves, and 
have been not inaptly compared to Lapageria rosea, particularly 
in colour and texture. They are pendulous and freely produced 
along the branches, giving plants of moderate size a very striking 
appearance. It was certificated at the Royal Botanic Society’s 
Show, May 19th, 18S0, where it was greatly admired by the visitors. 
It was there shown under the name already given ; but it has 
been subsequently determined to be Trieuspidaria hexapetala, but 
this title is not generally known.—C. 
HYACINTH US CANDJCANS. 
This with its Yucca-like foliage and handsome spike of white 
pendant bell-shaped flowers is deservedly becoming popular, as 
any doubt as to its hardiness has been happily dispelled ; and 
blooming at a season when flowers of the character are not plenti¬ 
ful it becomes valuable, the flowers being produced successionally 
over a lengthened period. It flowers in late July or early in 
August, and prefers a light rich soil, but will do well in most 
soils that are well drained, and it should be planted 4 to 6 inches 
deep. Solitary plants have a poor effect compared with those in 
clumps of a dozen or more. A mulching of well-decayed manure 
or leaf soil round the plants in autumn and pointed-in in spring 
will greatly benefit them. 
Plants for conservatory decoration are not numerous in August, 
[ February 1, 1883. 
and this grown in pots, a dozen in a 9 or 10-inch pot are very 
effective. Good turfy loam with a fifth of well-decayed manure, 
and a sprinkling of sand will grow them well, placing the roots 
so that the crowns will be covered 2 inches deep. The pots 
should be efficiently drained, as they require plentiful supplies of 
water when in free growth. In winter they may be plunged in 
ashes outdoors, and be grown through the summer in an open 
situation but sheltered from winds. The plants must be supplied 
with water and liquid manure, removing them indoors when the 
spike appears if wanted early or when the first flowers expand. 
If wanted to flower late they may be retarded by placing them 
in June at the north side of a wall, and they may then be had 
in flower as late as September. — G. Abbey. 
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id 
® WORK^fo^theWEEK.. < 
[By the most skilful Cultivators in the several Departments.'] 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Ground should now be prepared for Parsnips, and the seed 
may be sown the first time the soil is in favourable condition. A 
moderately rich deep soil is the most suitable. They grow 
luxuriantly in a very rich soil, but it is in this they are most liable 
to rust and decay in autumn. The rows should be from 18 inches 
to 2 feet apart, and the drills 2 inches deep. By putting three or 
four seeds down every foot or so a little batch of plants will be 
secured, and much less seed will be used than when all the row 
is sown. 
Garlic and Shallots may now be planted. We treat them both 
alike, and put them into rich open soil in rows 1 foot apart and 
6 inches from plant to plant. A small hole is made for each bulb 
with a blunt-pointed dibble, and the soil is not drawn in again, 
but the bulb is surrounded with a handful of river sand, which 
keeps it snug and fresh until growth begins. 
Cabbage plants raised from seed and planted in their bearing 
quarters in the autumn promise, owing to the mild weather, to be 
unusually early. They succeed best in winter when the ground 
is very firm about the roots, and we have sometimes been afraid 
to disturb them too early, as to loosen the soil to induce them to 
grow more rapidly not unfrequently makes them “ bolt; ” but at 
present we would advise their being all examined, filling any 
blanks and drawing a little soil to the stems of the early batches. 
Plants which are too late for any special lime or purpose should 
have the soil loosened among them with a fork to encourage their 
speedy growth. 
More Peas should be sown, and the earliest kinds are still the 
most suitable. The most favourable positions should also be 
selected for them. At this time we give great attention to cropping 
along the borders near walls, and all available space here is 
being filled with early tender spring crops. These consist of 
Potatoes, dwarf Peas, Cauliflowers which have been wintered in 
frames, Lettuce, Radish, &c. 
More Broad Beans should be sown. As yet we have not sown 
our main crops, but only a few rows between Gooseberry bushes, 
which is generally a sheltered position for them at first. A sharp 
look-out must now be kept for slugs. Gathering with the hand 
and slight dustings of soot and lime frequently applied are sure 
means of keeping them in check. Earth up and stake all Peas 
which are visible above ground, and keep all surfaces between 
growing crops clean and open with the Dutch hoe. Remove 
decaying vegetables to the refuse heap, and manure or lime and 
dig or trench every empty space. 
Rhubarb and Seakale are advancing in growth in the open 
ground, and it is not now necessary to lift these for forcing, as they 
will come rapidly on if covered with their pots, or any old box or 
barrel, and hotbed manure. Cauliflower plants in frames should 
now have abundance of air admitted to them, that they may be 
well hardened previous to being transferred to the open quarters. 
Lettuces may be treated in the same way. 
In the forcing house attention must be paid to Cucumbers, 
Tomatoes, Vegetable Marrows, &c. Those which have now formed 
a few rough leaves should be potted, keeping them as near the 
glass as possible. Sow more seed of the things just named. 
Kidney Beans may be placed in their fruiting pots as soon as 
they are large enough ; good drainage and a rough soil suits them 
best. Sow successions every fortnight. Do not syringe any which 
may be coming into flower until the pods have been formed. 
