122 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t February s,ises. 
1^ inch will rest on the hive sides. Necessarily therefore, unless 
what are called wide shoulders are adopted, the hive sides must be 
at least 1^ inch thick, and it is here that the proposed frame fails 
to give satisfaction. There may he no difficulty with double-walled 
hives, hut when we come to those with single sides we find it im¬ 
possible to adopt the 17-inch bar without using wood of excessive 
thickness. Double-walled hives are doubtless to he in most cases 
preferred, but they are too expensive and difficult of construction 
for cottagers’ use, and quite unnecessary where hives are to be kept 
inside buildings as is frequently the case. In practice wo find that 
a projection of three-quarters of an inch in the top bar is quite 
sufficient for convenience in handling, and as this allows a rest of 
half an inch it would easily fit all hives whether single or double- 
sided. This would give a length of top bar of 15J inches. 
There is a growing tendency also among bee-keepers towards the 
two-storey hive, which can only be conveniently used when the 
body boxes are single-sided. As this is the simplest form of hive 
body we give the following as its dimensions, assuming that it is 
intended to hold ten frames—that is, it will measure inside 
141 inches square. To admit of tiering the top must be level with 
the upper surface of the frames all round, and thus its four sides 
will be each 8J inches deep. It is well, however, to allow for a 
little shrinkage, and we shall say 9 inches planed. The ends on 
which the frames are to rest must thus be rabbeted half an inch on 
by three-eighths of an inch down. To admit of this rabbeting these 
should be at least three-quarters of an inch thick — we prefer 
1 inch, hut the other sides may he lighter if preferred. We 
always prefer rabbeting out of solid wood to using thinner wood 
with plinths nailed on, as these present so many more open joints 
to the weather. Body boxes so contracted will, if carefully made, 
fit exactly on each other ; hut to guard against the possibility of 
wet entering the lower edge may he surrounded with a plinth on all 
sides except the front, this plinth depending half an inch, so as to 
throw rain over the bottom board, or over the junction of two 
storeys when tiered up. The roof should have its sides large 
enough to slip over the top of the body, with stops screwed inside 
to allow of its being let down further when not required for 
covering supers. 
A glance at figs. 14 and 15, page 60, will show the principles on 
which we prefer to construct our double-sided hives. The internal 
rabbet at the bottom and the external one at the top serve as receivers 
for the floorboard and the roof, rendering plinths unnecessary. In 
these hives we further provide sufficient height in the sides to allow 
of chaff-packing in winter, though this addition may, especially 
with single-sided hives, he in the form of a moveable rim. The 
roof may vary according to taste—either gabled, sloping both ways, 
or in “lean-to” form, sloping in one direction only. Generally 
speaking, however, our aim is to have hives constructed of the 
fewest possible number of pieces, and more especially where these 
present open joints to the weather. The following minor points 
also require attention:—Ventilation of the roof should be provided 
for by holes under the eaves, at least two of 1 inch diameter in each 
of two opposite sides. The doorway should be cut out to at least 
10 inches by three-eighths of an inch, and be fitted either with 
slides or moveable blocks for reducing its size at pleasure. The 
floorboard should project at least 3 inches in front to form an 
alighting hoard, and is preferably made of two thicknesses well 
riveted together across the grain, so as to he proof against warping 
and to he reversible if desired; and all exposed parts should be kept 
well painted and thoroughly waterproof. 
The tendency during the last few years has been in favour of 
hives large enough to contain from twelve to twenty frames or 
even more, with a view to having sections hung inside the hives. 
But experience, especially in poor honey seasons, leads us to con¬ 
clude that this is a mistake. AVe very seldom have well-finished 
sections in such circumstances, and we have no doubt that the older 
plan of reserving the body of the hive for brood combs and taking 
surplus in the form of supers proper will yet be generally adopted. 
Under such circumstances we considt-r that hives to contain from 
ten to twelve standard frames are large enough for all purposes. 
The latter number seems a proper medium for double-walled hives, 
and we think the former exactly suited to single-walled hives, especi¬ 
ally where tiering is intended.— William Raitt, Blairgowrie. 
(To be continued.) 
AUTUMN STIMULATIVE FEEDING. 
I am puzzled to know why “ P. II. P.” (page 80) should go to 
India and hack to try to prove himself right; we are in England, 
and the English climate we have to deal with. 
As to driven bees, this matter has nothing to do with the ques¬ 
tion. I ask, Now suppose his queens really have ceased laying, can 
your correspondent induce them to recommence laying eggs ? I 
consider that driven bees stand on the same ground as swarms, the 
extra excitement in feeding, &c., causing the queens to commence 
laying. This is totally different from ordinary stocks to be kept 
over the winter. I have, I think, walked as many miles as most 
men after driven bees in an evening after a hard day’s work for 
others and myself, and I say, By all means unite such bees to your 
others. This is far safer than stimulating feeding. Suppose you 
keep up the breeding after the honey harvest is over, your bees 
come out in larger numbers, so that more die from exhaustion, &c., 
ffian you gain. It is not so much the age as the amount of work 
done by the bees that causes them to die. Then look at the amount 
of robbing caused by feeding, the danger of chilled brood, danger 
of dysentery, young bees not able to take cleansing flights, &c. 
Transferring I strongly condemn, having in so many instances 
proved the great danger of foul brood afterwards. I examine some 
scores of hives in the year for myself and others, so I have some 
chance of observation.— Stinger. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
J. 0. Manson, Harford, U.S. America .—Catalogue of Flower and 
Vegetable Seeds. 
Dickson & Robinson, 12, Old Millgate, Manchester .—Catalogue of 
Stove and Greenhouse Plants. 
R. Pennell & Son, Lincoln .—Catalogue of Flower and Vegetable 
Seeds. 
C. Pocock, Wincanton, Somerset .—Catalogue of Flower and Vege¬ 
table Seeds. 
Walter Ford, Panther, Basingstoke .—Catalogues of Vegetable and 
Flower Seeds. 
Hogg & Wood, Coldstream-on-Tweed .—Catalogue of Flower and 
Vegetable Seeds. 
Richard Dean, Bedfont and Ealing .—Catalogues of Vegetable and 
Flower Seeds, Flc fists’ Flowers, and Potatoes. 
William Paul ifc Son, Paisley.— List of New Pansies and Pinks. 
Vilmorin, Andrieux et Cie., 4, Quai de la Megisserie, Paris.— Cata¬ 
logue of Vegetable and Flower Seeds. 
Carl Cropp, Erfurt .—Catalogue of Flower and Vegetable Seeds. 
E. G. Oakshott & Co., Reading, Berks .—Catalogue of Seed Corn , 
Beans, and Peas. 
%* All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editor” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or 
members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. AVe 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and 
should never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Cutting Down Vines (J. T. S.). —Do not cut them down. We will 
reply more fully next week. Letters that arrive on Wednesday cannot be 
answered satisfactorily in the next day’s issue. 
Fragrant Camellia (J S. G.). —The flowers you sent are very slightly 
fragrant, and we have observed a similar scent in this and other varieties, but 
it is never very strongly marked, and is quickly lost after the flowers are 
removed from the plant. The variety is apparently the old variegata. 
Pruning Raspberries (Novice). —Your canes are evidently very strong. 
If you cut “ clean off ” all the side growths to which you refer, you will pro¬ 
bably remove some of the best bearing wood. Thin them out, retaining those 
that are strong and furnished with prominent buds. Many of the shoots will be 
so small as to be of little use, and these you may cut off as you suggest. Do 
not overcrowd the canes ; five or six to each stake will be ample. If trained to 
a fence they should be about 6 inches apart, and if very long they may be 
trained obliquely, so as to have a greater length for bearing. 
Chrysanthemums for Pots (/l. C.). —We presume you do not require 
the plants for exhibition, and have therefore named those which are distin¬ 
guished by their free-flowering qualities. Incurved—Mrs. G. Ruudle, Mr. G. 
Glenny, Mrs. Dixon, Prince Alfred. Japanese—Early Red Dragon, Elaine, 
Bouquet Fait, James Salter. Reflexed—Julia Lagravfere, Chevalier Domage. 
Anemone—Fleur de Marie and Mr. Astie. Six good useful Pompons are the 
following—White and Golden Cedo Nulli, Mdlle. Marthe, Rosinante, Fanny, 
and Soeur Melanie, which is rather larger than ordinary Pompons, but very free. 
Chrysanthemums ( Saltburn ).—Rooted suckers potted now and kept in 
cool frames, or cuttings struck in early spring and liberal culture given to the 
plants, will afford you a better supply of flowers than you can obtain by keeping 
the old plants as you propose. These if planted out in a sheltered position 
