February 8. 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 123 
■where protection could be afforded in late autumn would give you a supply of 
flowers for cutting that might be useful ; but first have a stock of young plants 
established for yielding an abundance of good blooms. 
Stephanotis not Flowering (Reader). —Your plant may still flower as 
the season advances ; if it does not you have applied to us too late for informa¬ 
tion that will enable you to induce it to flower this year. Its failure to produce 
flowers will be the result of too much heat and moisture during the winter. If 
it continues growing luxuriantly you had better make the soil firm, or other¬ 
wise restrict root-action towards the end of August, and lessen the supply 
of water, maintaining also a drier atmosphere. From October onwards through 
the winter the soil may be kept comparatively dry, only giving water when the 
foliage commences to feel flaccid and limp when pressed between your finger 
and thumb, a temperature of 60° falling to 55° in the winter being ample. If 
a plant has had its growth ripened in the autumn followed by a rest in winter 
does not produce flowers in the spring it will in all probability be a shy-bloom¬ 
ing variety with large leaves, and not worth the space it occupies. 
Liquid Manure for Mushroom Beds (I. IF. Mansfield). —The drain¬ 
ings from stables consisting largely of urine can only be applied with advantage 
to Mushroom beds when they are so dry as to need watering, aud this ought 
never to be the case with new beds, as if the material of which they are made is 
not moist fermentation will not occur to produce the necessary heat. Beds that 
are more or less exhausted by heavy crops, and also dry, are often benefited by 
liquid manure applied at a temperature of 80° or 90°. Pure mine must be 
diluted with six times its volume of water, and is then valuable to all Mush¬ 
room beds that need additional moisture, not otherwise. If a drop of water can 
be squeezed from the manure by the hand it is too moist for Mushrooms ; aud 
if a handful will not “cake ” or adhere when firmly grasped it is too dry. You 
can by this rule determine whether to use the drainage or not in the manner 
you suggest. 
Heating Apparatus Unsatisfactory (Horlus ).—From your description 
of the disposition of the pipes, and the sketch showing the return pipes, we are 
unable to notice any defect in the arrangement. It is likely, however, that 
there may be air lodging somewhere in the system, yet this ought not to be the 
case if there be air pipes, as there ought, at the highest part of the pipes where 
the return is made to the boiler. The highest point of the system being in each 
case at the doorway, there should be an air pipe in each flow pipe at that point. 
Whether the unsatisfactory state of the apparatus is due to defective circula¬ 
tion. or arises from the bad setting of the boiler, is a question for decision on the 
spot only ; otherwise we see nothing, except the want of air pipes, that should 
prevent the apparatus heating well. 
Syringing Peach Trees (F. C.). —We do not remember the strength of 
the petroleum mixture that you said you had used ; but we thought it so strange 
that you should apply it to the blossoms, that we carefully searched your letter 
for some qualifying sentence. The mistake on the subject was, as you say, 
“ wholly your own.” As the dressing has not injured the trees it will certainly 
act as a preventive of insects as well, probably, as anything else would ; but we 
do not consider frequent applications of petroleum desirable. We have used 
tobacco water, diluting the strong juice with six times its volume of water, and 
nicotine soap is equally effectual. If you syringe your trees with this at the 
strength of 3 ozs. to a gallon of water just before the flowers expand, you 
will not be troubled with many insects on the blossoms, and if any appear dust 
them with tobacco powder or snuff. 
Apple Scions (Idem). —We do not know from whence you can obtain 
scions of the varieties you require. There is no Apple named Mrs. Ward, but 
there is a Baron Ward. The Mr. Morris to whom you have written died about 
half a century ago. The site of the old Brompton Nursery is covered with fine 
buildings, including the South Kensington Museum. We doubt if the Columbia 
Plum can be had in this country. You say you have applied to many nursery¬ 
men, but do not mention Messrs. Richard Smith & Co. of Worcester. Our reply 
to your last query is—Yes, there has been a slight alteration. 
Cinerarias Defective (F. (!.).—You ask if frost would cause the florets 
to curl, as in the flowers you have sent. It would do so, and it is impossible to 
have satisfactory flowers if they are allowed to be even to the slightest extent 
frosted. Insects produce somewhat similar results when they are allowed to 
cluster on the stems just under the flower buds, as they puncture them and 
extract the sap that is requisite for the support of the blooms. If you had not 
mentioned frost we should have concluded that insects had caused the evil, and 
we are still inclined to think that they have had a share in the work. We 
suspect also they were lurking under the buds for some time before the time 
you state that they “made their appearance.” You afford us no guidance what¬ 
ever for determining the cause of the Pelargonium leaves withering. Extreme 
dryness at the roots, excessive fumigation, escape of noxious gas from a flue, 
or keeping the plants in a very moist atmosphere, then exposing them suddenly 
to a drying current of air, would cause the margins of the leaves to wither like 
the one you have sent. If you had briefly stated the conditions under which 
the plants were grown and the treatment they had received we should in all 
probability have been able to give a more explicit reply. 
Cutting down Rhododendrons (IF. (?.).—The effect of cutting down 
the shrubs in the manner you suggest would necessarily render them unsightly 
for a long time, and some of them might, not produce fresh growths freely. I his 
depends entirely on the condition of the shrubs as to vigour and the age 
and character of the wood. We have seen healthy shrubs break freely, and 
some of them afterwards grow even too luxuriantly, while others we have seen 
do little or no good after the operation. You had perhaps better try the experi¬ 
ment of cutting a few of them down and note the results. We cannot incur the 
responsibility of advising you to clear an embankment in the manner you 
suggest without knowing something of the actual condition of the shrubs, and 
on this point you do not say one word. Healthy shrubs cut down now may be 
expected to mature their growths and produce at least some flowers next year; 
but if not cut down until after they have flowered in June they will not flower 
with any freedom for at the least two years. 
Inarched Vine (J.B.). —If your rod of Mrs. Pince is satisfactory by all 
means retain it. It will do quite as well on the stock, provided it is healthy, 
as on its own roots. Had we known the length and strength of the young 
cane we could possibly have given you more useful advice. We can only 
counsel you not to overcrop it, but shorten, if needed, so as to induce stronger 
growth next year. If there is space for the foliage to develope under full ex¬ 
posure to the sun it will not be necessary to cut down the stock now, and so 
deprive yourself of a crop of Grapes ; but if there is not space you may' cut off 
the spurs from the lower part of the stock for admitting light for the future 
Vine, while, at the same time, the upper portion of the stock will afford Grapes 
next summer. Autumn, just after the leaves have fallen, is the best time for 
cutting down Vines. If cut down at this season of the year excessive bleeding 
not infrequently results, which it is not easy to check. 
Daphne indica rubra (Q. L. K .\—This plant is almost hardy, and con¬ 
sequently will not long thrive in a stove temperature of 60° to 65°. To grow 
Daphnes well they should have cool-frame treatment, the pots being stood on 
ashes or some other moisture-holding material. In spring, when these plants tit 
are starting into growth, the frame can be closed early in the afternoon, so as to 
husband as much sun heat as possible to assist them in making their growth, at 
the same time syringing the plants occasionally. Aftergrowth is completed the 
lights should be gradually removed until they can be left off day and night, or 
the plants stood outside to form their flower buds. They are best in the frame, 
so that the lights can be placed over them during wet weather. During frosty- 
weather the lights must be kept on, giving abundance of air when favourable. 
If the weather proves very severe the frame must be well covered with mats or 
other protecting material to exclude frost if possible. It is a good plan during 
sharp weather to plunge the pots entirely in cocoa-nut fibre to keep frost from 
the roots. AVe have seeu the soil in the pots frozen quite hard without the 
slightest injury resulting to the plants, but it is better to avoid such risks. 
During the spring Daphnes can be forced into bloom by the aid of gentle warmth 
in a greenhouse, but in no stage should they have such a high temperature as 
you are keeping your plants in. After flowering they must again be gradually 
inured to cool treatment again, or they will not long retain their vigour. Let 
your plants be removed to the coolest part of the stove for a few days, then to 
the warmest part of the greenhouse, and subsequently to a still cooler position, 
so as to avoid a sudden check. After flowering place them in a frame, and if 
the roots are active healthy growths will follow for producing flowers next year. 
These plants must be watered carefully in all stages, especially during the winter 
season. 
Gardenia Buds not Swelling (Idem ).—It is impossible to give an ex¬ 
plicit reply in a case where no data is afforded to guide us, and can only say that 
the flower buds of Gardenias do not swell very rapidly at first, and to all appear¬ 
ance remain stationary. If your plants have been checked, or are in an unsatis¬ 
factory state at the roots, they may not swell at all, but eventually turn yellow 
and fall off. If their roots are healthy, the buds fresh and green, and the plants 
have sufficient heat, you may expect the flowers to expand more rapidly from 
this date, and in due course properly develope. 
Raising Vines in Turves (II. S .).—We have raised Vines in turves and 
have produced most satisfactory canes without the use of liquid manure : but 
the turf was taken from rich pasture land, and further, as the Vines increased 
in size the turves were placed on a layer of rich soil and decayed manure, the 
spaces between them being filled with the same material. As soon as the roots 
took possession of this, and before it was interlaced with them, the Vines were 
planted, and the canes produced were most satisfactory, being strong, short- 
jointed, and with little pith. If the turf is poor, weak liquid manure applied 
once a week would doubtless be beneficial, but it would not be needed until the 
Vines had made considerable growth and the turves were thoroughly permeated 
with roots. Until Vines have made much growth, say until the middle of 
August, they need the treatment of stove plants—that is, a genial atmosphere, 
water in sufficient quantity to maintain free growth, with light and air to keep 
Fig. 36. 
them sturdy, but no cold currents to cause the foliage to flag. In the autumn 
a drier atmosphere, abundance of air, and all the light possible are requisite for 
ripening the wood, but they must not suffer by want of water at the roots. As 
you sre inexperienced you must not expect to succeed like a Thomson on the 
first attempt; and, besides, if you have no better eyes to start with than those 
you sent us last week it will not be possible for you to produce superior canes. 
The roots of your Vines have probably penetrated into ungenial subsoil, and do 
not obtain the support they need, aud the wood is certainly immature conse¬ 
quent on that, and probably insufficient heat and ventilation in the autumn. It 
is not unlikely, too, that the Vines were overcropped and the growths overcrowded. 
If the border is permeated with roots near the surface, and the growths are suffi¬ 
ciently exposed to light and air, the canes will be shorter-jointed and contain 
less pith. The wood marked No. 1 is a good size for propagating, but we attach 
more importance to the character of the wood and the buds than to mere size. 
The annexed figure represents a Vine eye prepared for insertion. 
Pigmy Vines (Idem). —The Vines to which you refer as bearing from one 
to four bunches of Grapes in 4 to 6-inch pots, were, as is stated by Mr. Hender¬ 
son, the cultivator of them (see page 236, September 26th, 1867), “ raised from 
cuttings from Vines that had been started in February. The cuttings were 
taken off the old Vines after the fruit was set, and potted in 5, 6, and 7-inch 
pots.” For striking as suggested a brisk moist heat and a close atmosphere for 
a time would be essential, and then success could only be achieved by a skilful 
propagator and cultivator. AA'e have not tried the plan. 
Names of Fruit (II. //.).—No, 1 is apparently a fine specimen of Margil, 
but has been kept too long for us to determine with accuracy. No. 2 is AA'inter 
Greening. (Coloile Browne). — 1, Vicar of AVinkfield ; 2, Knight’s Monarch ; 
?, Ne Plus Meuris; 4, Bergamotte Esperen ; 5, Cornish Gilliflower; 6, not 
known, evidently worthless in your soil; regraft the tree with No. 4. (.1. Me .).—- 
1, This is the spurious variety of Knight’s Monarch, which Mr. Knight himself 
distributed by mistake. 2, Angelique de Bordeaux, only fit for stewing. 
Names of Plants (II. S .).—Your plant is Marattia elegans, a species of 
Fern from Norfolk Island and New Zealand; most of the forms of this genus 
inhabit swampy districts, and consequently require abundant supplies of water 
in cultivation. It will succeed in the ordinary warm fernery or stove. 
Moving Stocks (Lex).— There is little or no risk in moving bees at this 
period of the year, and if you sustain any loss at all it will only be very slight. 
CO VENT GARDEN MARKET— FEBRUAUT 7th. 
MARKET very quiet. A fair supply of early forced vegetables reaching us, 
but good samples of late Grapes are short at previous quotations. 
