February 22, 18b 3 . ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
1G5 
in the old beds, preparing the plant® in another house or frame so as to be 
strong and ready for placing in the fruiting pots immediately the first crop is 
removed. Any of the early varieties will answer, some persons preferring green, 
others scarlet-fleshed kinds. We are not at all certain we have comprehended 
you letter, which is very obscure, as in one part you say the crop cannot be cut, 
till August, and in another you ask how you can turn the house to good account 
in June. We often feel that if correspondents were to exercise the same care 
in asking questions that we do in answering them, they would obtain informa¬ 
tion that would be more useful. 
Insects in Mushroom Bed (B. T., Bradford). —It will be very difficult 
to destroy the insects in the bed without injuring the Mushrooms. You might 
try the effect of salt, dissolving from 1 to 2 ozs. in a gallon of tepid water 
and applying it to the bed. This, especially if the material is rather dry, will 
improve the Mushrooms and possibly destroy many of the insects. If this fails 
you might try the effects of quassia water, an ounce being boiled in a gallon of 
water for twenty minutes and poured on the bed between the Mushrooms, not 
on them, as it will turn them bitter. A small work on Mushrooms that will 
suit you is now ready for press and will shortly be published. 
Ventilating a Pine Stove (F. C.). —If you examine the roof you will 
probably find that the spaces between the panes of glass vary considerably. It 
may possibly, under the circumstances, be desirable to putty up a few of the 
laps, but we should not stop many of them. It will only be during very cold 
weather that you have a difficulty in maintaining the heat at the requisite 
figure, and a comparatively low temperature for a time when the pipes are hot 
will do no harm. It will not be necessary to open the front sashes at any time, 
except to prevent the temperature rising above 85°, and it would be very 
undesirable to open them at this season of the year. 
Various ( Inquisitive). —When you allude to a circulator boiler we presume 
you allude to a boiler for heating a glass structure of some kind. If such a 
boiler leaks to any great extent it will obviously soon be inoperative. We have 
stopped leakages with a mixture of red lead and iron filings ; an iron cement can 
also be obtained at foundries and from some ironmongers that is useful for this 
purpose. There is no harm in allowing a bunch of Grapes on the leading shoot 
of a Vine, the rod of which reaches to within 3 feet of the top of the house, pro¬ 
vided the Vine is not overcropped. We do not know the name of the Apple that 
is known in Cheshire as the Long Keeper, perhaps some of our readers can supply 
the information. 
Grubs on Fruit Trees (IT. C., Stroud). —The two caterpillars you 
describe appear to be (1) that of the small ermine moth, Yponomeuta padella, 
(2) that of the winter moth, Cbeimatobia brumata. Little can be done, as you 
remark, with either species when the caterpillars have begun to form their webs 
except by actually picking them off—a tedious process. In the case of the worst 
of the two pests, the wdnter moth, it is found of benefit to search for the patches 
of green eggs, which are tolerably conspicuous upon the bark of fruit trees; 
also there is advantage in drawing a line of some sticky mixture round the 
foot of trees, so that the moths cannot ascend in the wdnter to lay their eggs. 
This plan is commonly pursued in Germany, where the insect is very mis¬ 
chievous. The moths of the small ermine species, although small, are con¬ 
spicuous, and many of them may be destroyed by shaking trees or bushes into a 
sheet at the period of their emergence. See also notes on preventing insects 
on the first page of this Journal. 
A Strange Plant ( Saltbum ).— That a plant may be induced to grow in 
the way you suggest—namely, by burying the branches in the earth and 
having the roots in the air, is well known, but it is almost as unnatural for a 
plant to exist in such a position as it would be for you to stand upon your head 
when taking your meals, though if you are as tenacious of life as the plant 
mentioned yon might continue to exist for some time. 
Planting Roses (J. B.). —The most important matter to be attended to 
at this season of the year is to take care that the roots do not become dry by 
exposure to the air. There is no doubt the seedling Briar will succeed as well as 
any other stock on your strong soil. You may safely shorten the roots, removing 
all jagged or otherwise injured portions with a sharp knife ; and we do not 
think that removing half their length would injure them in the slightest, the 
tops to be closely pruned at the same time. By all means place some lighter 
soil round the roots ; this will greatly expedite the emission of fibres, and bone- 
meal would afford foed for the plants. As to the depth of planting, you do not 
afford us the requisite data for deciding the point. If the buds have been 
inserted quite close to the roots you can scarcely avoid covering the worked 
part, and in such a case we should have no hesitation in covering it; while, on 
the other hand, we should not place the roots too deeply for the sake of covering 
the parts where the Rose is attached to the stock. As to its being fatal to Roses 
on seedling Briars planted so as to cover the union, we can only say we have 
had no evidence of this, but we have seen hundreds of plants so planted grow' 
satisfactorily. 
Vines too Luxuriant (E. T., Norfolk). —The portion of lateral simply 
enclosed in a letter was crushed almost to pulp, only a small portion of the 
bunch remaining uninjured. In all probability you placed the manure on the 
border rather too soon, and possibly it may have been too hot. Still we do not 
think much damage has been done, and by selecting the more sturdy bunches 
you will produce good Grapes. The one sent is not satisfactory ; but you say it 
is not one of the best, and ns we have seen many worse than this, we consider 
you have no real cause for alarm. The dull weather has not been favourable for 
early Vines, and several days of sun, which are certainly overdue, will work 
wonders. Thin out the laterals so that the leaves on those retained are fully 
exposed to the light, stopping at one or two leaves, according to space, beyond 
the bunches, removing all sublaterals promptly at the first leaf. This stopping 
should be done the moment you can handle the points of the shoots with your 
finger and thumb, and you ought to be able to put all the portions removed at 
once into your waistcoat pocket. Do not damp the house during dull weather, 
and open the top ventilators, even if only slightly, very early in the morning. 
When you remove the manure spread a mixture of fresh loam and lime on the 
border and make it quite nrm, as the soil is possibly too light as well as too 
rich. Half a peck of lime to a large barrowful of soil will not be too much. We 
are glad to hear you have profited so much by what you have read on Grape and 
Mushroom culture, and we wish you further success. 
Treatment of Tuberous Begonias (A. M .).—Presuming that the 
tubers were potted in a good compost of turfy loam, sand, leaf soil, and well- 
decayed manure, they can be now brought steadily forward in a temperature of 
about 55°. If the pots can be plunged it will be an advantage, as that will 
decrease the necessity for frequent supplies of water. In any case as the growth 
advances the soil must not be allowed to become dry, and if the pots are well 
drained there will be little danger of giving too much water in fine weather 
later in the season. Weak liquiu manure can be supplied at intervals previous 
to the expansion of the flowers, and if judiciously employed it will increase the 
vigour of the growth and the size of the flowers, also deepening the colours. A 
light position must be provided, and not too far from the glass, as it is important 
to secure a sturdy growth. Syringe lightly occasionally until the flowers 
expand, when it should be discontinued, and at all times be careful to avoid a 
superabundance of stagnant moisture either in the air or the soil. Ventilate 
freely as the weather becomes warmer, and shade slightly when the sun is very 
bright. No stopping or training will be needed if the plants are grown strongly, 
but a few stakes may be required by weaker growers, and also when preparing 
the plants for exhibition, so as to avoid injury in transit. The flowers, too, 
should then be carefully enveloped in soft tissue paper. 
Cucumbers and Melons in Pots ( R. H. R., Westmoreland).— Wa never 
saw Cucumbers grown better in pots than at Eastnor Castle, nor out of pots either 
in a less quantity of soil. The plants w'ere being prepared for winter, but the same 
method of culture with proportionately more water would answer equally well 
for summer culture. The soil was extremely rough. In its roughness indeed 
consisted its chief excellence. It was turf, no doubt, pared from g-ood soil, yet 
simply turf, and used just as it w r as dug in large square junks. It is surprising 
how little of such soil is required to grow Cucumbers when it is rightly used. 
There overhead was a large trellis quite covered with shoots and foliage of the 
most satisfactory kind; below a narrow ridge of turves, the roots protruding 
through them in all directions asking for another thin casing of the same sus¬ 
taining and enjoyable food. Periodical layers of turves, and liquid manure 
when the plants are heavily worked, are all the food required by Cucumbers. 
All they ask for is to have the turfy soil “ little and often,” and rough. In the 
next house, a succession house, the plants were in very large pots and the growth 
had nearly covered the trellis. The large pots are placed on a layer of “good 
stuff ” over the hot-water pipes. Roots are not only encouraged to the surface 
of the pots, but over them. They are enticed over them by rich rough food. 
Turves are then packed round the pots, water being regularly poured in, and 
down the roots will go to the heat, moisture, and food below, gathering sus¬ 
tenance as they descend their moist, warm, dark, rugged path, and liquid 
manure freely given do all that is needed. That is what Cucumbers like— 
aerated food. What they" do not like is a huge mass of close soil given all at 
once and done with. They do not like alternations of heat and cold, dry 
draughts and cold fogs, nor especially to be heavily cropped when young. 
Melons may have firmer soil. Temperature and pruning are the same whether 
the plants are grown in pots or beds. 
Soil for Vine Border ( Idem). —You have done quite right in adding 
the lime, and you would in all probability further improve the soil if you could 
add some of a heavier nature, as we presume the land is light. Burning or 
charring a portion W'ould render it additionally fertile for Vines. 
Culture of Dipladenia Brearleyana (C. B. B.). —The best compost 
for Dipladenias is a mixture of equal parts of peat and light turfy loam, with a 
small proportion of sand, leaf soil, and old well-decayed cow manure, thoroughly 
draining the pots, and if the loam is inclined to be heavy add a few small pieces 
of charcoal. During the spring and summer a temperature of 65° to 70° will be 
needed, with a still further rise to 80° in the afternoon when the sun is bright. 
At starting and afterwards the plants will be greatly assisted if they can be 
plunged in a bed having a bottom heat of 80°. During the winter—the resting 
period—a much lower temperature is required, about 60° to 66° being sufficient. 
Abundant moisture must be distributed about the house whilst the plants are 
growing, and frequent syringings will then be beneficial, but be careful in supply¬ 
ing water to the roots, never allowing the soil to become excessively wet, or the 
plants will suffer considerably. In winter scarcely any water will be needed. 
Thoroughly clean the shoots when training them and before growth is much 
advanced, and if that be w r ell done there will be little difficulty in keeping them 
clean afterwards if they are liberally syringed. The Stephanotis will succeed 
with the above, and under similar treatment as regards temperature and 
moisture, though it will also grow and flower w T ell in a temperature as low 
as 60°. It flowers in spring and summer, but by having a succession of plants 
introduced into heat at intervals of a month it can be had in flower all the year 
round. The supply of water should be reduced when the growth is matured, 
and during the winter very little will be required. 
Names of Plants (A Young Subscriber). —1, Asplenium furcatum ; 2, Asple- 
nium dimidiatum ; 3, Polypodium pectinatum ; 4, Insufficient; 5, Verbascum 
nigrum. 1C. Z.). —1, Gymnogramma chteropbylla ; 2, G. calomelanos; 3, G. 
chrysophylla. ( W. R.). —1, Tradescantia zebrina; 2, Begonia manicata ; 3, 
Asplenium viviparum ; 4, Adiantum macrophyllum. (0. P.). —1, Odontoglossum 
A lexandrae ; 2, O. Pescatorei; 3, Phalaenopsis Schilleriana. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET— FEBRUARY 21ST. 
Trade quiet, with forced 
vegetables somewhat lower. 
Hothouse Grapes 
firm, good samples in advance. 
FRUIT. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d 
Apples. 
1 sieve 
2 
0to7 
0 
Grapes . 
lb. 2 
0 too 
0 
0 
40 
0 
Lemons. 
case 
L0 
0 
20 
0 
Apricots. 
doz. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Melons. 
each 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Nectarines. 
dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
12 
0 
Oranges . 
100 
6 
0 
10 
0 
Currants, Black.. 
4 sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Peaches . 
dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
,, Red.... 
4 sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Pears,kitchen .. 
dozen 
i 
0 
2 
0 
Figs. 
dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
dessert . 
dozen 
i 
0 
2 
0 
Filberts. 
tb. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Pine Apples, English tb. 
i 
6 
2 
0 
ioo tb. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Raspberries. 
lb. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Gooseberries .... 
4 sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Strawberries .... 
lb. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
VEGETABLES. 
8. d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d 
2 
0 to 4 
0 
Lettuces . 
score 
1 
0 to 1 
6 
Asparagus, French 
bundle 
25 
0 
30 
0 
Mushrooms . 
punnet 
i 
0 
1 
6 
Beans,Kidney .... 
100 
2 
0 
0 
0 
Mustard* Cress . 
punnet 
0 
2 
0 
3 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Onions. 
bushel 
2 
3 
2 
6 
Broccoli. 
bundle 
0 
9 
i 
6 
Parsley. doz. bunches 
3 
0 
4 
0 
Brussels Sprouts.. 
4 sieve 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Parsnips. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
0 
6 
1 
0 
Peas . 
quart 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Capsicums. 
100 
i 
6 
2 
0 
Potatoes . 
cwt. 
6 
0 
7 
e 
Carrots . 
bunch 
0 
4 
0 
0 
Kidney. 
cwt. 
6 
0 
8 
0 
Cauliflowers. 
dozen 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Radishes.... doz. bunches 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Celerv . 
bundle 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Rhubarb. 
bundle 
0 
4 
0 
0 
Coleworts_doz. bunches 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Salsafy. 
bundle 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Cucumbers. 
each 
0 
9 
i 
3 
Scorzonera . 
bundle 
1 
6 
0 
8 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Seakale . 
basket 
1 
0 
2 
0 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Shallots. 
tb. 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Garlic . 
lb. 
0 
6 
0 
0 
Spinach . 
b ushel 
3 
0 
0 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Tomatoes . 
lb. 
i 
6 
2 
0 
Leeks. 
bunch 
0 
8 
0 
4 
Turnips . 
bunch 
0 
S 
0 
8 
