180 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 1, 1883. 
s 00 n as the shoots became a foot in length, four sticks were placed 
round the sides of each pot and a piece of twine run round, which 
made all safe till the end of August, when it could he seen what 
length the sticks would be required, and then they were per¬ 
manently staked. Liquid manure, composed of sewage and soot, 
was given when the flower buds appeared, and as often as the 
plants wanted watering, which, owing to the continuous rain, was 
not often, and sometimes it was given when the soil was already 
wet enough. The plants grew very tall and the buds were thinned 
according to the variety, some of the Pompons having little or no 
thinning. They were left out of doors till the end of October un¬ 
protected (though if there had been much frost they would have been 
laid down and covered with canvas), and were then removed to the 
conservatory, continuing the use of the liquid manure till a good 
number of flowers were open, which was the case by the end of 
November. The plants were well furnished with leaves down to 
the pots, and the last flowers were cut and the plants removed on 
the 13th of February. My Chrysanthemums are always required 
late, but this year they came, exceptionally so, which I attribute to 
the low situation, late striking, much rain, late housing, and not 
to late pinching as some might suppose.—C. C. C. 
REVIEW OF BOOK. 
Vines and Vine Culture. By Archibald F. Barron. London: 
171, Fleet Street. 
Many works have been written on Vine culture, and, excellent as 
t e majority of these undoubtedly are, there has been ample room for 
® and mor ? compete volume on the “ prince of exotic fruits 
lrL+ erS ° n v f - others . ln the best position for accomplishing 
pnDm ni V olk , ls experienced Superintendent of the Royal Horti- 
cultmal Society s Gardens at Chiswick. No gardener in the king- 
vaHeHpa eqUal fa ° dltles for acquiring information on so many 
Ro f • Gl + l peS ’ and for testln S various methods of culture, as Mr. 
‘ in , . e £ reat experimental garden that has been for so many 
V' S cha I ge > and bem g observant m habits, patient in 
i!n d 4 f experiments, a skilful cultivator, and essentially prac- 
wl VaS a 0t 1 i ke i y to , P roduce a work otherwise than of great 
excellence. A perfect work on a subject that has to be regarded in 
*+ 1S not ? n the power of any individual to produce, 
aft ai wr ff ° fc ^ rate > and whlle the work before us does not 
practically unattainable standard of being absolutely 
« lit 8 •’ WG . C / rt , alnly „ d0 ™P ^ee with the author that it contains 
many imperfections, and is characterised by “ omissions ” of any 
substantial importance. A few imperfections, or such as appear so 
to us, will be pointed out with the object of their being considered in 
view of future editions, for a work of this kind will insure much 
more than a mere ephemeral popularity, and successive generations 
nvafwi en ^ r ^and others interested in the Vine and its culture will 
avail themselves of the knowledge that is compressed in its pages. 
In scope, the author has embraced the widest possible range, for 
he commences with Noah and ends with “ John Downie,” (the new 
Brape of 1882), and thus covers a period say of 4240 years. “ A great 
deal has happened during that time in connection with the Vine, 
and a. great deal is recorded in the 240 pages under notice. The 
historical chapter of eight pages is a model of condensation—the 
early cultivation of the \ me in Egypt is referred to, and the ancient 
historians Plato, Plmy, Theophrastus, and Strabo have been laid 
under contribution. The Grapes of Damascus “as large as pigeon’s 
eggs and bunches of 25 lbs. and 40 tbs. ” are cited, the introduction of 
the_f in ® la ^° England by the Romans, the establishment of vine- 
y ard ?’ that are enumerated, and the number of varieties recorded 
at different intervals are included, the subject being pursued until 
we find the Emperor Augustus, a.d.10, linked with Mr. Thomson of 
Galashiels over a bridge of 1863 years. 
The cultural, portion of the book naturally commences with pro¬ 
pagation, the different, methods being clearly described, and in most 
cases illustrated. Raising Vines by layers, cuttings, and from eyes, 
ad J} ave due attention, and full and sound instructions for budding, 
grafting, and inarching are given. ’ 
As we have had many inquiries of late (and, in fact, some are 
awaiting answers) on grafting Vines, we cannot do better than let 
our author answer them. On page 22 of the work is the annexed 
illustration (fig. 52), accompanied by the following remarks 
. The process of grafting may be performed in various ways, which 
be unnecessary to allude to here. The simplest and best is 
that represented by our figure—common whip-grafting. It does not 
matter how large the stem of the Vine may be, for, the graft being 
prepared, a corresponding portion of the stem is made bare, the 
requirement being to make as much inner bark fit to inner bark as 
possible, so that the sap or formative matter immediately below may 
mingle and become united. In this way it is that the union is 
effected, not by the fitting of bark to bark or wood to wood, however 
C ? re i j ? .y ma y be joined together. The scion being affixed 
should be tied, on tightly with matting, and covered up with some 
mastic or grafting wax. Mastic l’Homme Lefort is the best material 
we have ever used. Clay and moss are objectionable, for this reason, 
that there being much moisture in the house, the graft, instead of 
forming an organic union, emits roots into the clay, &c., and so never 
unites with the stock. In about ten or twelve days after grafting, if 
the operation has been successful, the bud will have grown somewhat. 
The shoots left on the stock beyond the graft should now be checked 
and kept in subjection to the graft; and in about a month’s time 
the matting and wax should be removed, and the shoot treated as estab¬ 
lished. Vines grafted in this manner on strong stocks will grow 20 to 
30 feet the first season, and produce the strongest possible wood ; 
and Vines of any size or of any age, if in a healthy condition, may 
be so operated upon. It is a capital plan of introducing a new 
variety into an established house.” 
As will be observed, the stock is permitted to grow somewhat freely 
before the scion is attached. The figure now given and method 
described show the thoroughly useful and practical nature of the 
work before us. 
The chapter on hybridising and raising Vines from seed shows 
with great clearness how the work of fertilisation must be performed, 
the magnified figures of the flower of the Vine being of great assist¬ 
ance in this respect; at the same time a suggestive hint is given 
relative to “ varieties of Grapes sent out as distinct, which ultimately 
prove nothing but old sorts ”—namely, a little more vigour, which is 
inherent to a seedling Vine, and hence it produces larger fruit “for a 
time,” and the chances are “ a hundred to one against anything new 
being obtained,” except by careful and proper fertilisation. 
The author’s views on border-formation, soils. &c., are generally 
sound. As might be expected, he has no elaborate formula to sub¬ 
mit which can be considered in any way indispensable, but in a few 
words states what he considers to be the best compost, and advises 
the cultivator to “ get as near it as possible,” and not to despair if 
he cannot obtain the best turfy loam, as good Grapes can be grown 
in ordinarily fertile garden soil. The size of borders, inside versus 
outside borders, drainage, raised borders, and heated borders are dis¬ 
cussed, and not many persons will quarrel with the conclusions arrived 
at; but on the matter of aerating borders with drain pipes it is a 
question if the author’s pupil, Mr. W. Taylor, has not almost exploded 
this method of sweetening and purifying the materials. See “ Vines 
at Longleat,” page 5. The reference to covering Vine borders with 
fermenting materials is fully too brief, seeing that so much injury 
has resulted both by covering too early and uncovering too soon. No 
exception can be taken to what is stated, but a dozen lines might be 
added with advantage. The observations on mulching, watering, 
and renovating old Vines are clear, concise, and satisfactory. 
Structures for Grape-growing are dealt with in the next chapter, 
and illustrations given. Mr. Barron attaches very little importance 
to particular angles, but observes with truth that very steep lean-to 
vineries are “ extremely sensitive ” to changes of temperature, and 
require great care in ventilation ; still, the houses should be adapted 
to the special requirements of each case, and these are indicated. In 
the chapter on heating Hood’s table for determining the length of 
piping for heating a structure is submitted, as affording, however, 
“ only an approximative idea.” Very approximative indeed is our 
remark on this, and quite as likely to mislead the inexperienced 
amateur as to aid him. Even the example quoted has a tendency in 
the former direction, because the data of an external temperature of 
32° and a pipe temperature of 200° are not safe. A much lower 
external temperature must be provided against, and this, too, without 
heating the pipes so highly. No mistake, however, can be made if 
readers ignore the table and follow the author’s instructions in the 
last half dozen lines of the chapter. 
The chapters devoted to the planting of Vines and the general 
management of vineries, including forcing, temperature, ventilation, 
and moisture, are as good as can be written in the space they occupy, 
and here we may observe one of the merits of the book is its pithi¬ 
ness. Exception may possibly be taken by some readers to the sug¬ 
gestion that “ a temperature of about 60° will be sufficient until the 
Vines have started into growth,” not in the sense of denying that 
sufficiency, but, on the contrary, that temperature will be considered 
needlessly high by not a few. It is above the orthodox standard ; 
but heterodoxy in this matter is not always dangerous, as a famous 
gardener in one of the leading establishments in the kingdom 
habitually starts his Vines at the least 10° higher than the tempera¬ 
ture above indicated. Perhaps it amounts to the same thing as 
travelling by express or ordinary train, the one being quicker than 
the other, but both equally safe. 
Under the head of Pruning and Training, the different systems of 
training Vines are adverted to. The methods of pruning are repre¬ 
sented by several figures executed in outline, which will be useful 
to the uninitiated, and certainly not less so will some others that 
cannot fail to make the important matter of stopping the growths in 
summer clear to all. The remarks on shortening the young canes the 
first season after planting “ as low as you can, as leaving a good 
long rod on a young Vine is in many cases the commencement of the 
road to ruin,” will not find universal acceptance ; but bearing in 
mind the qualifying words “in many cases,” the assertion is true. 
The chapter on disbudding and summer dressing is one of the best 
in the book ; in fact, we should find it difficult to point out any 
treatise where so much sound and valuable matter is conveyed in 
such few words. 
The necessary conditions for setting the fruit are plainly stated, 
high night temperatures being considered of less importance than 
a high sun temperature under otherwise suitable conditions, such as 
