March 1, 1883. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
183 
in our Parsley ground, and now prefer the salt. It is applied as 
a sprinkling and dug in. 
Asparagus .—The beds now require attention. In many cases 
they may have had a mulching during the winter, and this should 
be drawn from the crowns and forked in around the roots. Deep 
digging or forking must be avoided, as this injures the roots and 
weakens the produce. Stimulants are of the greatest benefit at 
this time, and a good dressing of salt and soot, or salt and guano 
mixed together, is always applied at this season. A sprinkling of 
it is forked in now, and another is thrown on the surface and 
washed in with the rain later on. 
Cauliflower plants which have been wintering in frames and 
handlights should now be taken out to the open borders. In this 
case we only thin out the plants and allow some of them to remain, 
as they head earlier than those transplanted now. Jerusalem 
Artichokes have all been lifted and replanted again singly 2 feet 
from row to row, and 18 inches from set to set. We find a deep 
rich soil gives the finest tubers. It is a crop which merits more 
extensive culture than it receives. 
Peas which were sown a month ago in small pots have been 
hardened, and they will now be planted in the open borders. A 
drill is opened as if for seed, but deeper, and potfuls are planted 
in this about 6 inches apart without breaking the ball. As they 
are 4 inches high, a few small twigs are placed in to hold them up 
as planting goes on, and this also affords them shelter, which is 
sometimes wanted in March. 
Potatoes, Carrots, and Radish in hotbeds are now growing 
freely, and abundance of air should be admitted to them on all 
favourable occasions. When kept too close top growth is rapidly 
developed, but the roots do not form in proportion, and may 
partially fail from this cause. Some of the early Cauliflowers 
sown in boxes under glass a month ago are ready for transplant¬ 
ing. Where a very slight hotbed can be formed, with a frame 
and a little light rich soil on the surface, an excellent place will 
thus be secured for dibbling out young plants. They root fast in 
such a position, and can be easily hardened previous to putting in 
the open quarters. Celery should, if possible, be treated in this 
way, and the earliest crop should have attention of the kind at 
once. Our earliest spring Cabbages, which will be ready for 
cutting in a month hence, or at Easter, are now having any weeds 
and dead leaves taken from them, and the soil is afterwards 
broken up between the rows and put to the stems as an earthing- 
up with the fork. This is the best of all stimulants for spring 
Cabbages. More Cabbages may also be planted. Plants raised 
from seed sown last autumn are the most suitable for planting 
now. Our plan is to plant all the largest in autumn, leaving the 
smallest in the seed beds to plant now. Sow more Kidney Beans, 
Tomatoes, and ridge Cucumbers, and keep all vegetables under 
glass well supplied with rich materials, plenty of water, and a 
genial atmosphere. 
PRUIT-PORCIN G. 
Vines. —When thinning the earliest Grapes has been completed 
and the inside borders have been watered with liquid manure at 
a temperature of 80° the berries will swell rapidly until they 
reach the stoning period ; but any unfertilised berries, as will be 
indicated by their not swelling freely, should be removed before 
this stage is attained, and after tying up the heaviest shoulders a 
few more may be removed, if necessary, to allow of the berries 
attaining their full size without becoming wedged. At the same 
time calculate the weight of Grapes each rod is likely to finish, and, 
if there be any fear of the crop being too full, the removal of a few 
of the worst bunches will give much more satisfaction in the re¬ 
sult than an excessive crop. The strongest spur shoots being tied 
down and stopped at two or more joints beyond the bunches, the 
leaders and laterals should be allowed free run until every part of 
the trellis is filled with foliage, having room for its development 
and full exposure to light, after which keep them closely pinched 
to one joint. Encourage succession Vines by closing the houses 
early, with sun beat and plenty of moisture well charged with 
ammonia from the mulching and the liberal use of liquid manure 
about the paths and walls ; but avoid a close moist atmosphere, 
also a high night temperature, giving, if necessary, a little top 
ventilation on mild nights. As the most promising shoots elongate 
disbud by degrees, and endeavour to obtain close-jointed growths 
and thick leathery foliage. 
The treatment advised for early and succession houses may now 
be applied to Lady Downe’s and other late varieties intended for 
keeping through the winter, it being better to apply fire heat in 
the spring, if these Grapes are to become thoroughly ripened and 
to keep without shrivelling until the following May, than to run 
the risk of a cold sunless autumn, when hard firing becomes 
absolutely necessary and the close atmosphere necessitated only 
aggravates the evil. 
Cherry Souse .—Continue 50° to 55° as the temperature from 
fire heat through the day, and dispense with it entirely at night, 
only the temperature must be kept from falling below 40°. The 
trees will be in flower, when the ventilation should be free upon 
all favourable occasions, and the blossoms fertilised ; but if bees 
abound it will be accomplished by them, otherwise artificial 
mean3 must be resorted to during the time the house is freely 
ventilated, commencing to do this at 55°, giving it plentifully 
at 65°,_ and closing for the day at 55°. Moderate moisture should 
be maintained by damping available surfaces as they become dry. 
Melons .—These are making good growth, which should be 
encouraged by maintaining a bottom heat of 85°, not allowing the 
plants to suffer from insufficient or excessive water at the roots. 
Maintain a genial atmosphere in the house by sprinkling the 
plants and the house on bright mornings and afternoons. Venti¬ 
late at 75°, close at 85° and rise to 90°, with a night temperature 
of 70° or 65° on cold nights. Attend to stopping and tying, also 
thinning the young shoots, and fertilise the blossoms on fine days 
when the pollen is dry. Stop the shoots at one joint beyond the 
fruits, which, when they have set and have commenced swelling, 
should be thinned, leaving three or four of the best and most 
even fruit on each plant, distributed as regularly as possible. 
Succession plantings and sowings must now and for the next 
two months be made in accordance with the requirements of 
establishments. 
Cucumbers .—Apply tepid liquid manure to plants in bearing, 
and syringe them gently twice a day. Ventilate early, but avoid 
keen winds, as these are very injurious to the young growths. 
Keep the bottom heat at from 80° to 85°, maintaining the night 
temperature at 65° to 70°, ventilating a little at 75°, closing at 85° 
and rise to 90°, and keep the evaporation troughs filled with 
liquid manure. Attend to tying and removing any super¬ 
fluous fruit or shoots. Young plants making vigorous growths 
must be trained regularly, but not too closely, over the trellis. A 
little soil must be added to the ridges or hillocks as the roots pro¬ 
trude until the allotted space is filled. Make successional sow¬ 
ings to meet the demands of the establishment, and attend to the 
linings of hotbeds, having fermenting materials in preparation of 
making fresh beds. 
FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
Pruning Shrubs and Conifers .—The weather being favourable 
for other gardening operations we find it advisable to commence 
this work earlier than usual, and thus liberate the men later on, 
when planting and cropping may be resumed. A certain amount 
of trimming, thinning, and shortening is advisable in all shrub¬ 
beries, as this, if judiciously practised, enhances the beauty of 
many specimens and improves the general appearance of the 
whole. The majority of Conifers are naturally of pyramidal 
habit; but in the case of younger specimens, and sometimes of 
the older ones when injured, it is necessary to either select and 
stake up a leading growth, or to shorten back other leading 
shoots when more than one are formed. Occasionally one or 
more horizontal branches outgrow the remainder, and these again 
should be freely cut back. Well-furnished and comparatively 
neat specimens are thus obtained, which are more pleasing than 
unshapely trees. Common Laurels where allowed to grow un¬ 
restricted, and are not injured by severe frosts, soon become 
irregular and unsightly, but if cut down to near the ground they 
will shoot up again this season, and soon fill up the blanks again. 
It is better, however, to prune annually, and thus avoid this 
renovating process. The Portugal Laurel also breaks freely, 
however hard they may be cut back, and so, too, do Yews. 
Laurustinus where not quite killed during the severe winter of 
1880 and 1881 started vigorously from the old stumps, and are 
now healthy handsome bushes. Others freely cut back are also 
greatly improved in appearance, and the owners of tall ragged 
specimens should also shorten these back considerably, or cut 
them down to the ground. Arbutus Unedo does uol like pruning ; 
but Box, Hollies, Aucubas, Rhododendrons, Lilacs, Escallonias, 
Berberises, Cotoneasters, Viburnums, Sweet Bays, Euonymuses, 
Indigoferas, Buddlea globosa, Weigelas, Spiraeas. Rob'nias, 
Acacias, Ribes, Mock Orange, Leycesteria formosa, Hydrangeas, 
Hibiscuses, Genistas, Forsythias (after flowering), Thorns, Dog¬ 
wood, flowering Cherries, Plums, Peaches, Privets, Maples, 
Almonds, will all bear pruning, and in several instances be much 
improved. 
Large branches should always be sawn off. and the edges of 
the cuts rounded with a knife. Where the b llhook is used the 
cuts should be made in an upward direction. This in each 
instance insures a clean cut, which heals mere qu'ckly and with 
a greater certainty than jagged reckless cu's. The trimmings 
may be burnt and the ashes preserved for manu^al purposes. 
