JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
I- 
March 1, 1883. ] 
185 
placed about 2 inches apart. "When straw supers are used this is 
rather difficult to accomplish, and many prefer guides of clean white 
comb, which may be fastened by being first dipped in hot wax, and 
then quickly applied to the place where they are to remain. We 
prefer, however, to have our straw supers worked with flat wooden 
tops, in which case the strips of foundation are more easily fastened. 
Boxes present no difficulty, provided they are, as they should 
always he, quite shallow, not over 4 inches in depth. These are 
most attractive when made to take separators of glass. For this 
purpose the sides next the ends of the proposed combs are to be 
grooved with a saw before they are nailed together at intervals of 
2 inches or rather less. The separators are dropped into these grooves 
after the box is made and guides fastened, and are pinned in so as 
to allow a quarter of an inch travelling space above and below. 
An additional beauty and means of safety are given by the use of 
bottom rails of glass about 1^ inch wide. One of these is placed 
under each guide, and fastened either in a groove or on a ledge put 
in for the purpose. The usual travelling space should be left below 
these bottom rails, in which case it will generally be found that the 
bees bring their comb quite down to the glass, leaving scarcely any 
passages, and that they store their honey right against the glass so 
that its beautiful tints may be clearly seen. A still further advan¬ 
tage in these beautiful boxes consists in having the sides cut almost 
through just opposite the separators, and the top made of bars 1J or 
If inch wide, thus leaving passages for the bees where more than 
one box is used. By the aid of the saw cuts mentioned, and the 
passages between the top bars, the whole case can, if required, be 
cut up with a penknife into sections of one or more combs as may 
be required. The most attractive cases of honey we ever saw were 
in boxes of this description, from 14 to 16 inches square, and from 
3 to 5 inches deep. 
Bell-shaped glasses for honeycomb are now almost entirely dis¬ 
carded, except by those who keep bees chiefly for pleasure. They 
are difficult to guide, afford no foothold to the bees in clustering, 
troublesome to keep warm enough, and almost unsaleable when 
finished, owing to the cost of the glass. We do not therefore 
recommend their use to beginners. If variety be wanted, there is 
endless scope in the variations of straw, wood, and glass, singly or 
combined, and of shapes to please any fancy. But the principal 
efforts of the commercial bee-keeper will be in the direction of the 
now well-known sections. A few hints as to their manipulation 
will occupy our next paper.— William Raitt, Blairgowrie. 
(To be continued.) 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
George White, Paisley.— Catalogue of Florists’ Flowers. 
J. 0. Manson, Harford, U.S. America .—Catalogue of Flower and 
Vegetable Seeds ( Illustrated). 
s£s 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
W\lv\Wwmwwdi r 
%* All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editor” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or 
members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and 
should never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Rainfall (G . S., St. Austell ).—We cannot publish your record, as it is incom¬ 
plete and does not give the total for the year, January being omitted. 
American Tomatoes (J. 0. Manson ).—The new varieties of which you 
have sent seeds shall be grown during the present season, and their merits when 
ascertained will be recorded in our columns. 
Peas for Prizes (An Amateur ).—In matters of this kind it is better to 
communicate directly with the firms in question, and no doubt any suggestion 
that is made will be duly considered. 
Petroleum (O. S., Renfrew) —The so-called paraffin oil is what is referred 
to under its proper name of petroleum when used in reference to destroying 
insects. A syringe would be far better than a watering-can for applying it 
against the Onion fly, both as insuring greater force and not, using so Much of 
the solution, an excess being injurious. 
Horticultural Shows (Primrose & Co .).—The fixtures of the Royal Hor¬ 
ticultural and Royal Botanic Societies’ Shows have been published in our 
columns—those of the former and also some Rose-Show fixtures in our last issue. 
The fixtures of many large provincial shows have not been announced, and the 
only method of obtaining the earliest information would be by writing to the 
Secretaries. A list of Botjuiical, Horticultural, and Floral Societies is published 
on page 217 of the “ Horticultural Directory,” which can be obtained from this 
office, price Is. 3d., post free. 
Vines Bleeding (E. D'O.). —Late pruning is the primary cause of an escape 
of the sap. When the Vines are very luxuriant and commence bleeding in the 
spring it is often very difficult to stop the outflow of sap. Dry the ends of the 
canes at once as well as you can, and dress them with painters’ knotting. This 
is one of the best remedies we know. If any of our readers know of a better 
mode of stopping the bleeding of Vines, we shall be obliged if they will send us 
the particulars for publication. 
Invigorating Roses (Anonymous ).—We do not know what the recipe was 
to which you allude, nor have we much faith in fanciful prescriptions that are 
compiled to “ catch the eye ” in ephemeral publications. If you can make the 
real state of your Roses intelligible to us, and the character of the soil, we think 
we can give advice that will at least be as useful as that in the “ Companion ” 
to which you allude. The potash in wood ashes is undoubtedly of service as a 
manure, but something more is needed in the majority of cases where Roses fail 
to grow satisfactorily. 
Work on Gardening (L. II. J/.).—The work to which you refer, we 
believe, can now only be obtained secondhand, and is also to some extent out of 
date, scores of Orchids having been introduced since it was published. It is 
satisfactory so far as it goes. There is no modern work of the kind obtainable. 
(J. L.). —The book most suited for your requirements is “ Fruit Culture under 
Glass,” by Mr. D. Thomson, published by Messrs. Blackwood & Sons, Edinburgh 
and London, price 7s. 6 d. 
Trees for Damp Situation (TF., Surrey ).—We doubt if any tree would 
grow so quickly under the conditions indicated as the Black Italian Poplar. 
The White Poplar (Populus alba) would also succeed. Willows would grow 
well, and the weeping kind planted towards the margin of the clump would 
have a pleasing appearance. The Hemlock Spruce (Abies canadensis) would 
probably flourish. For undergrowth the Alder would grow quickly, perhaps too 
luxuriantly, while Mahonias, Japanese Privet, Snowberries, and Tamarisk would, 
we think, make satisfactory progress. 
Disbudding Vines (H. Stone). —Assuming the rods are about 3 feet apart, 
and the Vines moderately vigorous, the fruit-bearing laterals should be from 15 
to 18 inches distant from each other on each side of the rods ; but the removal 
of the superfluous growth should be gradual, and the final thinning should not 
be done until you are certain that those intended to remain are quite secure, as 
if one of them should be broken a blank would be made that would be difficult 
to fill. Are you sure a polmaise stove would answer your purpose ? If you have 
quite satisfied yourself on that point we will endeavour to aid you, but we may 
remind you that no method of heating is equal to boiler and pipes. 
Amaryllis Culture (Constant Subscriber ).—You will find notes on the 
cultivation of these plants on another page, which we presume will meet your 
requirements. If they do not, and you will state more precisely the state of your 
plants, with the means at your disposal for growing them, we will readily give 
you additional information. We have many times stated, and we are surprised 
you have not observed it, that it is impossible for us to recommend dealers. 
You can obtain what yourequire from any florists who advertise in our columns. 
Fuchsias for Window (H. J. G .).— At the present time and onwards 
until the sun becomes powerful, the plants will succeed with otherwise good 
treatment in a window facing the south ; but in the summer such a position 
would be too hot and dry for them. A window facing east, or indeed any aspect 
instead of south, would be better for them after the middle of May. If they 
must remain in the south window slight shade will be requisite after that time 
when the weather is bright. If you sow your Gladioli seed in very fine soil in 
early May, cover with a handlight.and afford shade to keep the soil moist until 
the seedlings appear, you ought to succeed in your object. 
Grafting Vines (A South Wales Amateur and D. L., Bradford ).—You will 
find in another column a method described by Mr. Barron as the “ simplest and 
best;” he also describes a method of bottle-grafting “excellent and certain.” 
For particulars of a remarkable example of successful practice see No. 617 of the 
Journal of Horticulture, the issue of January 23rd, 1873. A few copies of this 
are still in print, and can be had for 3 ^d. each, post free from this office. Both 
the modes we have found good, and you cannot err by trying them too. 
Cleaning Stone Pillars (E. Y .).—You will find nothing better than 
muriatic acid for cleaning your stone pillars. The acid should be diluted with 
water, but if the green has become thoroughly established on the stone you had 
better use the acid almost pure at first, which will destroy the whole of the 
green, and the pillars in a few minutes can be washed white. If the pillars are 
not very badly affected equal parts of the acid and water will clean them 
thoroughly; but this entirely depends upon the stone, whether of a hard or soft 
material. If hard the acid must be used stronger than is necessary when the 
stone is of a soft nature. The diluted acid can be applied with an oil scrubbing 
brush, but care must be taken that it does not get upon your clothes, or it will 
burn and destroy them. Chloride of lime mixed with water will also clean stone, 
but when it is of a hard nature it is not so effectual, besides leaving an un¬ 
pleasant smell for days afterwards, which is not the case with muriatic acid. 
Crops for Shaded Position (J. S.).— There are few, if any, vegetables 
that could be profitably grown in the border you describe, especially as, we pre¬ 
sume, it is not only shaded with trees, but the ground is permeated by their 
roots. Jerusalem Artichokes would probably do as well as anything, and such 
tubers as are not required for culinary purposes will be readily eaten by poultry. 
Onions for pickling might also, perhaps, be grown, but it is almost impossible to 
say without knowing more particulars about the extent of shade and the nature 
of the soil. If the ground is not too poor and dry Black Currants or Rasp¬ 
berries would probably answer better than vegetables. We have seen good 
crops of those fruits, and also Gooseberries, grown under orchard trees, but 
everything depends on the fertility of the soil. 
Culture of the Dove Plant—Peristeria elata (Idem ).—This Orchid 
requires a temperature of 65° to 75° during the growing season, and the heat 
should never fall below 60° as a minimum. Supply water liberally as the growth 
advances, an occasional application of weak liquid manure being beneficial. 
After growth is completed withhold water and give the plants a thorough 
season of rest. Perhaps the cause of your non-success is that the soil is unsuit¬ 
able, a compost of fibrous turf, leaf soil, and well-decayed manure being the best 
for it, well draining the pots and elevating the plants. It is not necessary to 
remove the offsets unless you wish to increase the plant, and with due attention 
to the above hints you ought to succeed in flowering it, though it does not bloom 
