222 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March is, isss. 
a profitable way of dealing with such things. Double-cropping 
should be practised on every possible occasion. 
Herbs are in constant demand in every kitchen, and a regular 
supply should be secured in every garden. Fresh stock can 
easily be raised from seed, but it is yet too early to deal with 
this ; only old plants should be attended to now. Any which 
have been wintered under a heavy mulching of manure should 
have this removed, and part or the whole of it forked in between 
the rows. Old growths which arc never likely to be of much 
service should be cut back close to the ground, that fresh shoots 
may push from the bottom. This applies to Sage and Thyme in 
particular. Mint if top-dressed in autumn may be allowed to 
sprout through this, but where it had no manure in autumn a 
layer about 2 inches thick should be spread over the surface now. 
Spring-sown Cucumbers under glass are now in a fruitful state, 
and require constant attention in training and stopping—super¬ 
fluous wood or leaves should never be tolerated. Thinly trained 
short-jointed growths are the most fruitful. All fruits are cut off 
immediately they gain their full size : attention to this is the 
only way to secure a long succession of fruits. Tomatoes are 
showing bloom, and as all the early varieties are fruited in pots 
they have been transferred into 10-inch pots. Loam in a very 
rough state with two or three handfuls of old Mushroom manure 
and one handful of Thomson’s Vine manure is the compost we use 
for fruiting them in. Large quantities of Kidney Bean seed should 
now be sown in pots. Give those in fruit plenty of heat and 
moisture; syringe frequently to prevent the introduction or 
increase of insects. Make up Mushroom beds in cool sheds ; they 
succeed much better in such positions than in warm houses. If 
beds in which the crop is declining are watered thoroughly with 
water at 90° a new and vigorous crop will soon follow. 
FRUIT-FORCING. 
Figs .—The earliest crop of Figs on trees in pots will have com¬ 
pleted their first swelling, and it will be necessary to attend 
carefully in supplying water, affording liquid manure daily a few 
degrees warmer than the temperature of the house, as if the pots 
are properly drained the Fig at this stage will take great quan¬ 
tities without injury, and if allowed insufficient water the proba¬ 
bility is that most, if not all, the most forward fruits will fall just 
when they should be taking their last swelling. If the trees are 
in good condition the roots will have found their way through the 
top-dressing, and if the trees carrying a heavy crop large pieces 
of turf may be laid grass side downwards on the surface of the 
soil, into which the roots will soon pass, and the fruit will be 
much improved in size and quality. The day and night tempera¬ 
ture should not be increased until the fruit commences growing, 
when a few degrees’ advance may be allowed. Syringe the foliage 
well twice on fine days, damping the floors and walls, and close 
sufficiently early for the temperature to rise up to 80° from sun 
heat. Ventilation will require careful attention, especially after a 
dull period ; a sudden change to bright weather will necessitate 
early ventilation in order to prevent the leaves being scorched. 
Trees that are planted out will require to have the growths 
regulated, tied, and stopped as growth proceeds, stopping the 
side shoots at the fifth or sixth leaf, laying in full length terminal 
shoots until they have filled the allotted space. Syringe well 
twice a day, damping the paths, and at closing time mulch and 
water the borders, encouraging a sturdy growth as the best means 
of securing fruitfulness and keeping down red spider. 
Vines .—Late Vines must be started forthwith, and those that 
have been started will need gentle fire heat to keep them gently 
growing. In the case of vigorous young canes not inclined to 
break regularly they should be brought down to a horizontal 
position to prevent a rush of sap to the terminal bud until all the 
eyes have broken, when they may be tied up to the wires. 
Syringe twice a day, ventilate a little at 70°, and encourage free 
growth by closing with a humid atmosphere at a temperature 
of 75°. Disbudding, tying, and stopping in succession houses 
must be followed up promptly, and do not neglect thinning the 
bunches and berries. Maintain a circulation of dry warm air 
where Grapes are setting, but avoid currents of cold air. If the 
bunches do not develope well, having a tendency to run into 
tendrils—a sure symptom of imperfectly ripened wood—increase 
the temperature and reduce the moisture. Shake the Vines to 
liberate the pollen, which will be sufficient for most sorts, but 
Muscats, Black Alicante, Lady Downe’s, and other indifferent 
setters should have a camel’s-hair brush passed over them, using 
pollen from Black Hamburghs, performing the operation about 
midday on fine days. The fermenting material should be 
removed from the inside borders of vineries in which Grapes will 
soon be commencing colouring, giving the borders a thorough 
soaking with tepid liquid manure, when a mulching with short 
manure will keep the roots active near the surface, and prevent 
evaporation. Vines in pots swelling off crops of fruits will need 
feeding liberally with tepid liquid manure, removing the top¬ 
dressing as necessary. Pot young Vines from eyes or cut-backs, 
keeping them close and moist for a few days, but avoid coddling, 
as when they have taken to the new soil they must have full 
exposure to light and air. Compost for new Vine borders should 
now be prepared, using the soil in a rough open state, making 
narrow borders, and increase the space as the roots extend. The 
roots after planting should be kept near the surface by mulchings 
of short dung, frequently sprinkled with water at a temperature 
of 90°, encouraging growth by keeping the house close for a few 
days, and shading if the weather be bright. 
Tomatoes .—These of late years have been extensively cultivated 
under glass, by which means they have been brought to great 
perfection, and so much esteemed are the fruits as an esculent 
that in many places it has become a necessity to provide them 
fresh throughout the year. This may be effected by sowings made 
early in February, April, and September, and the management in 
each instance is similar—viz., when the seedling plants are 
moderately strong they are placed in 3-inch pots, being trans¬ 
ferred from those to 6-inch pots, and from these into the fruiting 
pots —i e., 12-inch, using in the latter case a compost of two-thirds 
friable loam and one-third decayed manure, with a little grit to 
keep the soil open. In potting provision should be made for top- 
dressing, leaving a space in the pots of about 3 inches. Surface 
roots abound in these plants, which should be encouraged by 
applying a dressing at intervals of decayed manure, with a few 
lumps of loam added. The plants will do in a house having a 
temperature of 55° to 60° at night, and where they can have sun¬ 
shine to the fullest extent. The plants should be allowed to run 
with one main stem, allowed to run according to circumstances, 
or to an extent of about 6 feet, from which all side shoots should 
be removed, and the fruit when too thickly placed may be thinned. 
An important matter in the after treatment is to keep the plants 
liberally supplied with weak liquid manure. Syringing should 
not be practised after the fruit is half grown. There is now some 
admirable varieties. We find Orangefield Dwarf, Trentham Early 
Fillbasket, Hathaway’s Excelsior, and Vick’s Criterion admirable 
in every respect. 
FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
2he Hardy Fernery .—As Ferns are fast starting into growth 
any alterations and propagation by division should no longer be 
deferred. When forming a fernery regard should be paid to the 
n quirements of each species. For instance, the Athyriums, which 
comprise many handsome varieties, thrive best in a damp shady 
position, and in a mixture of loam and peat or leaf soil. Asple- 
niums should have a lighter and less damp position, though not 
much exposed to strong sunshine. Blechnums in similar soil will 
succeed in an exposed position, and so also will the varieties of 
Lastrea Filix-mas, but Lastrea dilatata varieties require shade. 
Cystopteris fragilis varieties delight in a shady position and a dry 
stony root run. Osmunda regalis should be planted in a cool 
moist position and in strong loam and peat. Polypodium alpestre 
varieties, P. dryopteris, and P. calcareum should have a moderately 
cool position, and loam and leaf soil or peat. The varieties of the 
common Polypody (P. vulgare) will grow freely in an exposed 
position, and will spread rapidly over a heap of stony soil, roots, 
or mossy stones. Polystichum aculeatum proliferum and P. an- 
gulare varieties bear a moderate amount of exposure, but not ex¬ 
cessive moisture ; a rich stony soil suits them. Scolopendrium 
vulgare varieties will thrive either in the open or partially shaded, 
and should have a good soil and pflenty of moisture when grow¬ 
ing. Regard should also be paid to the heights of each species 
and variety ; but as they are many in number and vary consider¬ 
ably, recourse for further information must be had to a good 
catalogue or work on the subject. 
Various .—Part of the stock of Gladioli ought at once to be 
planted, and the remainder, in order to secure a succession, at the 
end of March or early in April. A few corms may be potted 
singly, started in a moderately warm structure, and planted out 
early in May, and these throwing up spikes earlier will still further 
lengthen the display. Rich deeply dug soil suits them, and the 
corms or bulbs should have a little sand about them, and be 
covered to a depth of 2 inches. Ranunculus and Anemone tubers 
ought not to be kept out of the ground any longer. Plant in a 
rich loamy soil, the former about 6 inches apart, and the latter 
•l inches apart each way. A little sand should be about each 
tuber. Pentstemons struck and wintered in handlights or frames 
may now be finally planted, especially if crowded ; so also may 
herbaceous Phloxes. Cuttings of the latter with or without heels 
will strike in a gentle heat and flower this season. 
