March 15, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
225 
adds Parkinson, “ It is now-a-days among our gentlewomen much esteemed to 
wear on their heads or arms, as they would do any fine flower or pretty toy to 
behold, as also to put into wreaths and garlands that the country people make 
for their sports and pastimes.” Bay, writing some time later, says that 
when he sowed it in the spring it produced its flower-heads in August, but if he 
sowed it in the autumn they were produced in spring. He found it growing 
wild near Messina in Sicily, and it is also a native of Italy and other parts of 
southern Europe. It flourishes in any moderately fertile loamy garden soil, and 
may be sown at either of the seasons mentioned by ltay. The seedlings from 
the autumn sowing are sometimes destroyed by severe winters. 
Pelargonium Leaves Spotted (Rev. E. F. C.). —Without knowing any¬ 
thing about the ape of the plant, nor the conditions under which it is grown, 
we can only repeat a reply we gave to a correspondent a few weeks ago, that the 
cause of the disease is not known. It is indicative of some inherent weakness in 
the plant, induced, probably, by defective root-action at some time. Possibly 
the roots of your specimen are not in a very active state now. The best method of 
treatment is to cut the plant pretty closely down, and it is just possible the sub¬ 
sequent growths may be healthy. If they are not prepare the plant for the 
open air, and in due time plant it out in good soil and a sunny position. If this 
does not cure it nothing will, and it will be advisable to destroy it. We never 
propagate from plants similarly affected. 
Calyx, of Rose becoming Foliaceous ( A.JJ.J. ). —The phenomenon 
of which you Eend us an example is by no means uncommon in Roses and many 
other plants, and indicates what botanists term reversion. The calyx, corolla, 
stamens, and pistil are all regarded as leaves altered to perform special functions, 
and under cultivation we frequently see instances exemplifying this. Thus 
stamens become petal-like, sepals also become coloured and assume the appear¬ 
ance of petals, and they all occasionally revert to the original foliaceous state. 
In some cases transitions may be traced from leaves to bracts, sepals, petals, 
and stamens, each series becoming gradually merged in the other. In the 
case of cultivated plants, such as the Bose you sent, this alteration of form 
is generally due to luxuriance of growth, but some varieties are more subject 
jo it than others. 
Orchid Sales (Amateur). —The object of the auctioneer in the matter you 
mention is doubtless to economise time, as the greater the number of lots the 
longer is the duration of the sale, particularly when the competition is at all 
keen. If the “ lumping ” system were not adopted it would often be impossible 
to conclude the sale within the day. Of course it is in a measure dis¬ 
advantageous to amateurs who are desirous of purchasing small lots, but these 
also are often offered, and you could then readily obtain what you require. It 
is, however, preferable for an amateur who does not wish to expend much 
money upon Orchids, with the risk of uncertain results, to purchase established 
plants from nurserymen, as they can be then had true to name, and will cause 
less trouble in subsequent culture. It is quite impossible to guarantee the 
names of the imported Orchids sold until they have been flowered, and this the 
nurserymen do at their own risk. 
Various (F. J.). —The manure is practically inodorous, and quite so when 
covered with soil as you propose. Whether it would be wise to use it in your 
case depends entirely on the state of the Vines and border. If you read" Mr. 
Taylor’s book carefully you will, we think, find he did not apply the manure to 
young Vines, but only to Vines that had been established for some years, and 
had consequently partially exhausted the border. He also states the quantity 
be uses and the time of its application. The scions of Pears you have obtained 
will not grow if inserted as cuttings. Clay’s fertiliser is in a great degree soluble, 
and is valuable as a top-dressing for plants. It is good also for mixing in the 
compost for certain plants, but this would not be the safest method for you to 
adopt. You would, perhaps, however, like to try a few experiments, and you 
may commence by adding a twentieth part of the manure to the compost, mix¬ 
ing it carefully and uniformly through the entire mass. 
Polmaise Heating (II -S).—There is a plan showing this method of heat¬ 
ing in an early issue of the Cottage Gardener, page 258, January 18th, 1857, but 
the number containing it has been long out of print. If you possess the volume 
(xvi.) you can refer to it, and you will, we think, find it is no more adapted to 
heating your house than is the ordinary and better system of a hot-water appa¬ 
ratus. Where cost is no object we have never seen a structure that could not 
be heated by hot water ; and if we had a well-executed plan of your house, drawn 
to scale, showing the paths and borders—in fact, showing everything clearly, we 
could possibly suggest a mode of heating ; but a rough imperfectly drawn plan, 
of which we receive so many, is of no use whatever. There is nothing unusual 
in your Vine eyes ; roots will follow in due course if the turves are kept in a 
proper state of moisture and a suitable temperature is maintained. 
Propagating Begonias (II. S.). —Cuttings taken off close to the tubers, 
the same as those of Dahlias, will strike in a heated propagating case. We 
should, however, prefer to let the growths advance somewhat, then sever them 
a few points above the tubers ; the stems would then break again and the parent 
plants make good specimens, which would not be the case by the above-men¬ 
tioned plan of taking the cuttings with a portion of the tubers, or very close to 
it. We did not mean to imply you had been neglectful, as it was quite natural 
you should not think of cockroaches, which, however, are much addicted to 
eating ornamental-foliage Begonias. Caterpillars are often very destructive 
amongst Pelargoniums. They may perhaps eat Begonias also, but we have not 
known them to do so. We think you have made the plants safe, and your 
endeavours certainly merit success. We do not know where the compressed 
moss for stable litter is obtained, perhaps some of our readers can supply the 
information. 
Narcissus in Pots (Ayrshire Amateur). —As soon as the flowers fade 
remove the stems and place the plants in a very light position, either in cool 
house or a frame, and water them with the same care as usual until the foliage 
changes. During mild days and sunny weather remove the frame lights. Your 
object should be to produce good foliage, and keep it fresh as long as possible 
under the full influence of light nnd air. If the plants are well managed on 
the lines indicated they will store up matter in the bulbs for the formation of 
future flowers. They will not equal imported bulbs, but if planted in good 
w ell-drained soil will become established and increase in numbers, and probably 
in vigour, year by year. All the Tazettas or Polyanthus varieties do well in 
pots, also in the open air, as do many others. Not knowing the varieties in 
your “very large collection” we should in all probability simply repeat them 
if we gave a list of names. As you are specially interested in these plants you 
cannot do better than refer to vbl. xxxvi. of this Journal, where you will find 
much information, w ith figures of typical varieties, on pages 361 and 381 ; also 
in vol. iv., third series, pages 381, 387, and 407. If you do not happen to possess 
those volumes the numbers containing the articles can be had from the publisher 
in return for Ir. 2 d. in stamps, requesting him to send you Nog. 946 and 947, 
new series, and 98 and 99, third series. 
Vines in Pots (F. C.).—Growing Vines permanently in pots is rarely indeed 
profitable, and especially in 9-inch pots. We have seen very good crops on 
Vines in 15-inch pots, but these you do not appear to have room for, and, besides, 
with the top-dressing you propose 9-inch pots will suffice for your small canes. 
Undoubtedly a layer of turfy loam and manure for the pots to stand on would, 
if kept constantly moist, be of service, and the roots that would form there 
could, if needed, be cut off: when the Vines were pruned. Remove the weaker 
of the two buds in every case where twins appear, and remove also the bunches 
from the cutbacks. It would be well, too, to remove as much of the soil as 
possible from the pots of these without materially disturbing the roots, and add 
fresh turfy loam with a tenth part of bonemeal, or, failing this, a fourth of 
manure, the compost to be pressed firmly in the pots. These growths, only one 
being left on each Vine, ought to form very fine canes, far superior to those you 
are now fruiting. You may as well allow a few bunches to remain on these, as, 
whether you do or not, we do not apprehend they will be of any substantial 
value another year. They are really too weak to be relied on, though we can 
quite understand your anxiety to obtain a few bunches. Give them the best 
treatment you can, both by top-dressing and a bottom layer of rich compost, 
and they may possibly turn out better than we anticipate. We should insert a 
few more eyes now. Grow them after being rooted iu 6 or 7-inch pots, ripen 
the wood well, cut them back in the autumn, shift them in the spring, and in 
the following summer they would be fine canes ready for taking the place of the 
present fruiters if these should fail to make vigorous growth. We are obliged 
by your notes of approval, it is our endeavour to be useful. 
Hardy Annuals and Herbaceous Plants for Cut Flowers 
(J. I 1 .).— 1’erhaps the finest annuals for cutting are Chrysanthemum tricolor 
vars.—viz., Atrococcineum, carinatum, Burridgeanum, Lord Beaconsfield, W. E. 
Gladstone, luteum, The Sultan, and veuustum ; Eschscholtzias in variety', 
Mignonette, Centaurea Cyanus minor, C. Cyanus cierulea, Sw r eet Teas, Sweet 
Sultan, purple, w’hitc, and yellow. To these you may add some of the many 
varieties of Candytuft, Collinsia, and Nasturtium. Of half-hardy annuals, 
which you may raise in gentle heat, sowing in pans or boxes in the cool vinery, 
Phlox Drummondi vars., large-flowering Ten-week Stocks, Double Dwarf 
Scabious vars., Asters, and, if you like them, the French and African Marigolds. 
Of herbaceous plants Achillea Ptarmica plena, Alstrcemeria aurantinca, A. 
chilensis, Anemone japonica, A. japonica alba, Anthericum Liliastrum major, 
Aster Amellus majus, A. multiflorus, A. dumosus, Campanula Hendersoui, 
Chrysanthemum lacustre, Francoa ramosa, Fuchsia corallina, F. globosa, 
E’. Thompsoni, Helianthus multiflorus plenus, H. angustifolius. Hyacinthus 
candicans. Plumbago Larpentm, Polygonum vaccinifolium, Rudbeckia New- 
manni, Schizostylis coccinea, Sedum spectabile, Senecio pulcher, Spirma 
filipendula plena. Phlox of the decussata section are fine for late summer 
flowering, and so are single Dahlias, which you may forward in your cool house, 
and plant out at the end of May. Carnations frequently bloom until a late 
period—in the north of England’ often until frost, especially those that are 
raised from seed. 
Grapes Setting—Air Roots (E. H).—Your Grapes, judging by the bunch 
sent, have set admirably, and by the time you read these lines will be ready for 
thinning. The presence of roots on Vine rods sometimes, but not always, in¬ 
dicates that the roots in the border are not in such good condition nor working 
so freely as is desirable ; the production of roots from the stems is also acce¬ 
lerated by a too moist atmosphere. When we give a reply to a correspondent 
it applies essentially to his particular case, but not infrequently has a general 
application. You have not read the reply to which you refer carefully, or at 
least have not quoled from it correctly. We never mentioned any particular 
hour, such as “three o'clock,” for closing and damping. We have never 
managed Vines by clockwork. We said “ very little moisture should be afforded 
with a declining’ temperature, and no syringing or damping should be done 
after the sun has left the house.” You had better reduce the atmospheric 
moisture, and in due time the stem roots will shrivel. Since writing the above 
we have received the following note from “ Vitis,” which may be appropriately 
inserted here—“ Various opinions are expressed regarding air roots on Vines. 
Some maintain they are a sign of ill health and unsuitable condition, others 
that they are a sign of robust and overflowing strength. I do not intend to try 
and settle the matter, but simply record my experience. A house w'hich from 
surrounding and internal circumstances is much shaded and damp, has furnished 
Vines which display every year air roots in great numbers, and about 9 inches 
long. The Vines bear well and seem in good health. Other houses in better 
situations are less troubled, and, indeed, some are almost without air roots on 
the Vines. This would lead one to suppose that a damp situation, and com¬ 
paratively' shaded house are conducive to the abundant production of air roots. 
Certain it is that the Vines are not in bad health, indeed they are remarked 
upon by all who see them for the way in which they bear, and the style in 
which they ripen a heavy crop year after year. The ripening is secured by a 
very liberal use of fire heat combined with judicious ventilation, the fire heat 
being used in this case more freely than is required in houses more fully ex¬ 
posed to the sun.” This lecord of experience of a practical and observant 
cultivator will be useful to yourself and others. 
Names of Plants (J. Dickson ).—Omphalodes verna; J, Erica carnea; 
3, Eranthis hyemalis ; 4, Sisyrinchium grandiflorum. (11. Davis).—}, Primula 
denticulata ; 2, Begonia nitida; 3, Pteris argyraea; 5, Adiantum decorum. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— MARCH 14171. 
Market quiet, with little to remark. Grapes shorter, with a good demand 
for first-class samples. 
VEQBTABbKS. 
P. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
f. 
d 
2 
0 to 4 
0 
Lettuce* ... 
i 
Otol 
6 
Asparagus, English bundle 12 
0 
0 
0 
Musbroonia 
i 
0 
1 
< 
Asparagus. French ouudle 
25 
0 
30 
0 
Mustard Cress .. punnet 
0 
2 
0 
S 
Beans,Kidney ... 
100 
2 
0 
0 
0 
Onions. 
2 
s 
2 
< 
Beet, Red. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Parsley. 
doz. bunches 
* 
0 
4 
0 
Broccoli. 
bundle 
0 
» 
1 
0 
Parsnips ..., 
i 
0 
2 
0 
Brussels Sprouts. 
} sieve 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Peas .. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Cabbage .. 
dozen 
0 
6 
1 
0 
Potatoes .... 
0 
0 
7 
e 
Capsicums. 
100 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Kidney.... 
« 
0 
* 
0 
Carrots . 
bunch 
0 
4 
0 
0 
Radishes.... 
doz. bunches 
i 
0 
0 
0 
Cauliflowers. 
dozen 
2 
0 
2 
0 
Rhubarb .... 
0 
4 
0 
0 
Celery . 
bundle 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Salsafy. 
l 
0 
0 
0 
Coleworts_doz. bunches 
s 
0 
4 
0 
Scorzo'uera 
i 
8 
0 
0 
o 
9 
1 
g 
Sealcale .... 
i 
0 
2 
0 
1 
0 
3 
u 
Shallots .... 
0 
s 
0 
0 
Fennel. 
bunch 
0 
a 
(J 
0 
Spinach .... 
3 
0 
0 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Tomatoes .. 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Lceka. 
. bunch 
0 
a 
0 
4 
Turnips .... 
e 
2 
0 
3 
