JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
March 22, 1883. ] 
231 
one of Mr. Dodwell’s varieties. So in crimson bizarres, "while 
several are enumerated which have passed out of date, Lord 
Milton and Black Diamond maintain their reputation ; but 
such varieties as Warrior, Hope, Tenby Rival, and Duke of 
Bedford have been displaced, a dozen of Mr. Dodwell and 
others of Wood’s Abercrombie, &c., come to the front. Pink 
and purple bizarres, always a limited class, have had but few 
additions. Sarah Payne and Falconbridge are still attractive 
flowers ; but James Taylor, Purity, and a few others claim 
attention as improved sorts. In scarlet flakes I find but one 
of those mentioned in 1857 in Mr. Turner’s catalogue now— 
Comet, while here again Mr. Dodwell has made his mark, 
seven of his flowers being retained in a list of fifteen varieties. 
In purple flakes there has been not so much change, and 
Ascendant, Beauty of Woodhouse, Dr. Foster, Squire Meynell, 
and Mayor of Nottingham are still amongst the best flowers. In 
that very lovely class rose flakes a few of the older favourites 
remain, such as Lovely Ann and Lady Gardiner ; but King 
John, Flora’s Garland, Lorenzo, Friar Lawrence, and others are 
now nowhere ; and James Merry weather, John Keet, Sybil, 
and others, including some of Mr. Dodwell’s, Dr. Vernon, Mrs. 
Tomes, and Mrs. Horne have supplanted them. I have thus 
dwelt on the Carnation because for so long a time it seemed 
as if growers would have to be content with an occasional 
addition now and then and keep mainly to the old sorts, but 
Mr. Dodwell has revolutionised them, and as he is yearly 
adding to his novelties we may expect ere long the older sorts 
to be ousted by newer and more vigorous-growing varieties. 
I do not desire now to enter into the vexed question of 
dressing, although my opinions have no way altered. I would 
merely warn those who see the beautiful and regular flowers 
shown at exhibitions that they will never be able to have theirs 
like them unless they are adepts at what is euphemistically 
called “ dressing.” This they must take lessons in, and learn by 
practice ; but they may have great enjoyment in very lovely 
flowers without it, although they may not be up to exhibition 
mark. —Delta. 
MOVING LARGE SHRUBS. 
It very frequently occurs that shrubs are left in positions where 
they have not room for development till they are too large to be 
moved by so light a machine as was figured on page 174. Shrubs 
planted too near to walks are very troublesome on account of the 
hard cutting they have to be subjected to, to keep them within 
bounds. Not only is this so, but they are generally an eyesore, 
sometimes in the shape of round mop-like heads as hard as worn- 
out brooms, at others they assume the form of hedges, some even 
going so far as to cut them with hedge shears. Instead of going 
on year after year cutting them, it would be much better to 
move them back, so that they could have a reasonable amount of 
room. To those who may have such to deal with, and are in any 
doubt as to how it is to be done, the following note on the subject 
will perhaps be acceptable. 
Suppose, then, that a a, fig. 62, represents the position of two 
Laurels with a spread of branches some 5 feet from the stem, as 
indicated by the dotted lines b b. For their size they are too 
near the edge of the walk c c, and too close together. In the 
first place the lower branches must be tied up so that they will 
not impede the work of removing the soil. This is best done by 
getting a good length of strong soft rope. Fix one end to the main 
stem about 5 feet from the ground ; take a few branches in the 
double of the rope and bring the loose end round the stem again 
and pull the branches up tight; enclose a few more in the next 
double, and so work round the tree till all is made secure by 
fastening the end of the rope to where you started. 
We will suppose that the Laurels have to be moved back a 
distance of 5 feet, and a like distance further apart. The new 
position will be at d d. At those points insert stout pegs, and 
from them at each side, and from the stems of the shrubs, 
measure off 3^ feet e e e, stretch a line to correspond, and 
mark it out with the spade. Measure from d to / 4 feet. In the 
same way mark out a square ball round the shrub, say 4 feet by 
5 feet. Proceed to dig out the whole of the soil to a depth 
of 2 feet, except this square round the roots of the tree, placing 
the soil at each side of the trench. This done, commence to 
undermine the ball on each side to a distance of about 9 inches, 
having a clear space of about the same depth below the ball. At 
each end undermine it in the same way to the distance of a foot. 
Now get two long planks, and place them, one on each side, under 
the ball as shown at g g g g. Upon the top of each of these place 
a bat of good sound oak or larch, about 4 or 5 inches square and 
6 feet long, so that they will project 6 inches beyond the ball at 
each end. On the top of these bats place a piece of 14-inch board, 
9 inches wide and 4 feet long, across each end, pushing them 
under the ball as far as possible. 
Next, place something under each corner, a small block of wood, 
or a brick if there is room for it, between the planks and the bats. 
This will give room to get a bar under the ends of the latter, by 
which means it will be easy to raise it so as to get a brick under. 
Having placed one under each corner, get a lever about 10 feet 
long made of a straight young larch, with a large block of wood 
for a fulcrum, and with this raise one corner at a time and place 
another brick on the top of the one already there, or, what is 
better, apply two levers at the same time, placing a brick under 
each corner. 
Having raised it in this fashion till there are four bricks under 
each corner, clear all loose soil from under level with the planks, 
and cut off any roots that may project below the level of the bats 
under the ball. Four rollers of about 6 inches diameter and 4 feet 
long are now required. Place two of these in position on the 
planks, and by using the levers remove the bricks one by one till 
the bats rest on the rollers. It is then moved along the planks to 
its new position, raised on bricks again to allow of the rollers 
being removed, and then let down on the planks. Ram the soil 
well under the ball where it may be hollow before filling up the 
space round it. Without very much difficulty two men may move 
such trees in the way above described, but if they have a lad to 
assist, the work is done much sooner. They can then each use a 
lever while the lad places the bricks. If good hard-burned bricks 
cannot be had, blocks of wood of the same size will be best, as 
soft bricks will not stand the weight of a heavy ball.—R. Inglis. 
POTATOES FOR TABLE AND MARKET. 
(Continued from page 215.) 
In the following notes the figures 1, 2, and 3 indicate first early, second early, 
and late varieties ; the months the time of planting ; and the asterisks those 
varieties that are considered the best for market purposes by the respective 
cultivators. 
Northamptonshire. —1. For these and second earlies end of 
March or beginning of April, according to state of weather and soil. 
*Myatt’s Prolific and *Beauty of Hebron. Soil.—I find light soil 
suits these the best. 2. *Suttons’ Fiftyfold and *Reading Russet. 
Soil.—Light and medium suits these. 3. First week in April. Scotch 
Champion, *Reading Hero, *Magnum Bonum, and Schoolmaster. 
Soil.—For Scotch Champion, light; Reading Hero, light and medium ; 
Magnum Bonum, medium and heavy ; Schoolmaster, medium and 
heavy. Manures and Application.—For garden culture I use no 
manure, but manure for the previous crop. For field culture I use 
farmyard manure ploughed-in in autumn. General Culture.—I find 
the essential part of Potato cultivation to secure a good crop of 
clean and handsome tubers is to have the ground thoroughly pul¬ 
verised by turning it up roughly in autumn, and forking it several 
times, the oftener the better, in spring before planting, and at least 
twice after the plants are up. This will, in my opinion, give better 
results (certainly for table qualities) than a coat of manure, provided 
the ground is not too poor. Should manure be necessary I would 
advise it being put on not later than November and dug in ; by so 
doing I find the Potatoes are of better quality than they are if it is 
applied at the time of planting. The same remark is true as regards 
