242 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 22 , isss. 
stand still ; and, what is probably worse, the young bloom is 
affected by the frost, and the pips then become ill-shaped ; for 
although the Auricula is an alpine plant, and although—notwith¬ 
standing the manner in which it has been changed by cultivation 
—it will stand severe frost without the plant being killed, the 
bloom suffers materially from the effects of frost. We are now 
within an appreciable distance (five weeks) of the exhibition day, 
and it strikes me that it will be very difficult for those who have 
not the advantage of heat to have their plants in bloom for that 
time ; while many who, like myself, consider fire heat injurious to 
the Auricula, would hesitate to use it even if they had it at com¬ 
mand. On one point on which I have strenuously contended 
against the feature recommended by the National Auricula So¬ 
ciety (southern section)—viz., using stakes for the flowering 
stems, I find that the resuscitated Bradford Auricula Society 
makes the use of them a disqualification—another proof to me 
that the north is the true home of the florist. 
Carnations and Picotees. —Here again, although not to so 
great an extent, the cold weather of the last fortnight has inter¬ 
fered with the well-being of the plants. I have not seen mine 
during that time, as there has been 4 inches of snow on the frame ; 
but as they were tolerably dry I hope and believe that not much 
harm has resulted from their forced imprisonment, as they were 
pretty dry before the hard weather set in. 
Gladioli. —No planting has as yet taken place, but I shall com¬ 
mence as soon as the ground and the weather are suitable. I may 
here refer to “ W. J. M.’s” notes in last week’s Journal as to the 
statement made by him and denied by me that Mr. Banks left his 
Gladioli in the ground. He says that his informant, noticing my 
note, again told him that Mr. Banks had stated that one season 
the frost overtook him before he had finished taking up his bulbs, 
and that he would fain make that corroborative of his former 
statement. It seems to me just the reverse, as it shows that he 
always took up his bulbs, and that it was only by an accident 
that some that season were not harvested as usual. I do not 
think that the depth of planting has much influence, and the idea 
that 6 inches is too much and prevented the bulbs from coming 
up, and hence their loss, is falsified by my experience. Last year 
my best bed was planted from potted roots, all of which had 
made G to 8 inches of growth before they were planted, and yet 
many of these failed. As to the seeding, many of mine were cut 
off for the sake of the blooms for indoor decoration, and yet these 
died quite as much as others that were left. I have no trees any¬ 
where near my beds, and yet the corms fail. I have found with 
“ VV. J. M.” the whites most difficult to keep. Madame Desportes, 
Ondine, Shakspeare, and others seem most susceptible of disease. 
The first of these I have given up as hopeless, and I fancy the 
same difficulty is experienced with it across the Channel, for it 
keeps up its price while others sent out the same year are to be 
had for a few pence ; and I am inclined to think that “ W. J. M.’s” 
future experience will tend to confirm my views on the whole 
subject. If care and trouble would help me I should begrudge 
neither for a flower of which I am immensely fond. 
Ranunculus. —My bed of these was planted when the ground 
was in good condition, but what the result of this severe weather 
on them will be 1 cannot tell. I fear it will not be favourable. I 
have been much struck with the effect of the very wet weather on 
the Turban Ranunculus ; those which I planted in October are 
only just making their appearance. This I can only attribute tc 
the excessive coldness of the ground and the absence of sunlight. 
Pinks and Pansies have had a hard time of it. Slugs have 
been busy at them, the wet has been very trying, and now that 
this severe frost has come on them they look miserable indeed. 
They will, as soon as the ground becomes a little drier, have to be 
examined and fixed securely in the ground. Those who have 
Pansies in pots will now be looking for the earliest blooms, and 
in every way, with us in the southern parts of the kingdom, this 
is the most satisfactory way of growing them. I have often envied 
the beautiful plants out of doors in Scotland and the north ; but 
we cannot have everything, and I rather think in our “ Garden 
of England ” we have the best of it.—D., Deal. 
CULTURE OF CALANTHES. 
Calanthes rank amongst the most useful winter-flowering 
Orchids we have, and the easiest to cultivate. Anyone having a 
few bulbs may easily raise a good stock, especially of C. Veitchii, 
which is about the best and most effective. The only dis¬ 
advantage connected with Calanthes is that the foliage fades 
when the plants flower, but that is remedied by placing the pots 
amongst Ferns, from amongst which the spikes arch gracefully. 
The best time to repot Calanthes is just when they commence 
growing. Those who have only a few bulbs will find it best to 
pot them singly in small 48’s in the following compost—two 
parts of fibry loam, one part of peat, and one part of well-decayed 
cow manure, with a liberal sprinkling of silver sand and charcoal. 
The pots should be three parts filled with drainage. Place them 
in a temperature of 65°, but do not give any water until the bulbs 
commence growing, and they should only have just sufficient to 
make the compost moist until they are well rooted, after which 
they should be well supplied. After the pots have become filled 
with roots the plants will be greatly benefited by liberal applica¬ 
tions of liquid manure, and the atmosphere must be well charged 
with moisture. When the flowers show colour the atmosphere 
must be kept drier ; when in bloom a temperature of about G0° suits 
them admirably, and they will last a long time in full beauty. 
After the flower spikes have decayed no water should be given 
until their growing season again commences.—A. Young. 
#5 
WORK, FOi HHEWEEK,. 1 
111 
W/A ^ ' \1 
lr>T7 
UlSfei: 
\By the most skilful Cultivators in the several Departments .] 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Protection .—Recent frosts have been so severe that buds of 
early-blossoming Pears have suffered in a few instances where the 
trees could not be covered. Warm sunny days followed by cold 
frosty nights may lead to further injury. Watch the progress of 
the buds closely and give shelter promptly as it becomes neces¬ 
sary, a single night’s exposure may now destroy the blossom. 
Whatever is done for protection should be as thorough as possible ; 
therefore carefully consider ways and means, and only do what 
can be well done. Far better is it to save the crop of half a dozen 
trees, if to protect them thoroughly exhausts the time and means 
at disposal, than to spend strength in vain efforts to protect half 
a hundred. See that every appliance for shelter is made secure ; 
tender buds and flowers have not unfrequently been battered to 
pieces in a high wind by mats or tiffany blown loose. Coping 
boards afford shelter from frost to wall trees, but they do very 
little good alone when severe frost is accompanied by high winds, 
as it has been so frequently of late. Stout tiffany stretched on 
poles thrust into the ground and fastened to coping boards serves 
admirably as a screen, and will preserve the blossom from injury 
in very cold weather. 
General Hints .—The nearness of Lady-day reminds us that it 
is the season for a change of residence for many owners of small 
gardens. To all such the cold weather will be welcome, as it has 
much retarded the growth of fruit trees. Not a day should be 
lost in filling any vacancies, and by the exercise of due care there 
is no reason why the trees should not only live but make a fair 
growth this year. The points of especial importance for such 
late planting are enriching the soil with sufficient well-decayed 
manure to induce a quick, strong, free root-action, mulching the 
entire surface of the station with rough half-decayed manure, 
securing the tree firmly by means of wire or stakes, and by 
frequent subsequent waterings not only in dry weather, but every 
week when there is no rain, of an hour or two’s duration. 
All neglected pruning should also be done speedily. Be not 
rash or hasty in the treatment of trees of doubtful aspect. Barren¬ 
ness or decay are, however, not difficult to discover, and the con¬ 
dition of each tree can alone suggest the right remedy—it may 
be a simple re-invigoration by means of fresh soil and manure to 
the roots, or the barren time-worn appearance of branch and 
spur may point to a necessity for shortening each branch to 
within a foot of the stem, and grafting each of them, so that 
every scion may form a branch. We have found this plan 
answer admirably, affording a supply of fruit much sooner than 
if the old tree had been replaced by a young one. 
The process of grafting has so recently been explained that we 
need not enter upon it. Now is the time to do it, and remember 
the three conditions necessary to success are a connection of the 
inner bark of stock and scion, binding them together securely, 
and the exclusion of air from the wounds or cut parts by wax 
or clay. 
FRUIT-FOR‘CING. 
Peaches and Nectarines .—The fruit in the early house being 
about stoning will need to have the temperature kept as equable 
as possible until the trees have passed through this critical period. 
