2G8 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 29, 1883. 
a moist base. This is especially important in hot weather. The soil for the 
first shift may consist of half turfy loam, the remaining half of peat and leaf 
soil, with sand to make the compost porous ; for the final shift you may use 
two-thirds loam, and substitute decayed manure for the peat, adding also a 
fifteenth part of bonemeal. Continue stopping the shoot3 and tying to small 
stakes inserted at regular distances with the object of training the plants in the 
form of half-globes ; but the stopping must cease six weeks before the show. 
As the fixture is early, in all probability 7-inch pots will be large enough, but 
this can only be determined by the condition of the plants. Varieties are of far 
less importance than good culture, and it is very unwise for anyone who 
intends exhibiting to limit himself to the number of plants to be staged. At 
the least a third more ought always to be grown, so as to provide for con¬ 
tingencies and make a selection for the exhibition table. We do not know 
the variety you name, the person from whom you obtained it will no doubt be 
able to give you the information you need respecting it. If any plant is less 
vigorous than the others, grow it in a smaller pot. 
Stopping Vine Laterals—Twin Bunches of Grapes (Irish Rector ). 
—An extract from your letter will probably render our reply useful to others 
beside yourself. You observe “Mr. Barron delays the stopping of the shoots 
much longer than Mr. Taylor—the latter recommending the point to be nipped 
out as soon as it can be done—and in trying to do this I had made the discovery 
for myself of the method of combining two bunches described by “ Druid,” for 
in one or two cases I nipped off more of the shoot than I intended, and now the 
eye at the base of the first bunch is beginning to push.” There is not so much 
difference in the practice of Mr. Barron and Mr. Taylor as you appear to sup¬ 
pose. Mr. Barron could not show so clearly by an illustration the method of 
stopping without allowing the lateral to extend somewhat before its point was 
removed; and he says, “ The operation should be performed as soon as the shoot 
attains the requisite length by pinching off the tip at the point indicated (in the 
figures on p.p. 81—83 in his excellent book). There is thus scarcely anything to 
take off, and no consequent check to the growth of the Vine. It is very bad 
practice indeed to allow the shoots to grow to such a length as to render it 
necessary to use the knife in stopping them.” This is sound teaching, and in 
removing “ scarcely anything,” his advice is really identical with that given by 
Mr. Taylor in his valuable little work. As both these cultivators have dressed 
the same Vines in the Royal Horticultural Society’s Gardens at Chiswick, you 
will not find any great difference in their methods ; and we shall not be wrong 
in saying that if Mr. Barron were to dress the Longleat Vines he would follow 
Mr. Taylor’s present system, and if Mr. Taylor were to dress those at Chiswick 
he would do the work the same as it is done now under the direction of Mr. 
Barron. We are not surprised that a cultivator so observant as yourself should 
have noticed the method described by “Druid,” and figured on page 53, of 
making two distinct bunches appear as one. It is not only perfectly practicable, 
but we have seen clusters exhibited that had been produced in the manner there 
shown ; but the practice is by no means general, and it is not likely that they 
will be often staged as single bunches. 
Pruning Vines (II. S.).— The method of pruning must be determined by 
the state of the Vines and the varieties of Grapes that are grown. Nine-tenths 
of the bunches of Grapes that win prizes at exhibitions are the produce of 
Vines that have been pruned on the short-spur system, and that method is 
applicable to all free-bearing varieties when the Vines are in good condition— 
i.c., make strong yet short-jointed growth, with prominent buds at the base of 
the matured laterals. Vines that are excessively luxuriant may occasionally 
with advantage be pruned on what is termed the long-spur system, because the 
lowermost buds are often pointed and weak instead of being round and bold. 
We have no doubt that, as a rule, the best buds or eyes where the wood is ripe 
and firm containing little pith, produce the largest bunches, but they are not 
always the most compact and best-shaped examples, and good cultivators 
rarely find it necessary to adopt the system of pruning to those prominent buds 
that may be 6 inches or more from the main rods. At the same time such 
varieties as the Duke of Buccleuch, Gros Maroc, and frequently Gros Guillaume, 
bear better crops when a portion of young wood is retained than by cutting 
all off to within half an inch or so of the base of each lateral; but it must bo 
remembered that this young wood canuot be fruitful unless the canes have been 
trained so thinly in the summer that the foliage could develope under the full 
influence of unobstructed light. Provided the roots of Vines are kept near the 
surface of the border and the foliage is not overcrowded the short-spur system 
of pruning is the best to adopt for all such free-bearing Grapes as the Black 
Hamburgh and Muscats—in fact for rhe majority of Grapes. The long-spur 
method, especially if practised by inexperienced amateurs, would almost 
inevitably lead to overcrowding, and possibly to such an extent that the Vines 
in a few years would be practically ruined. The long-rod is different from the 
long-spur system of pruning, and as a rule we should prefer it if we found 
occasion to change from the orthodox practice. 
Vines in Pots (Idem).—' “Will not pot Vines if moderately cropped pro¬ 
duce fruit year after year—like a Peach tree—in a pot ? And if not why not ? ” 
We print your question as we do not remember ever having an inquiry so 
briefly and concisely put on this subject. If you had a house large enough to 
allow of the leaves of your Vines in pots to develope under the direct action of 
the sun, and if the pots were large enough or ample support were given for the 
sustenance of the Vines, and these in other respects received proper attention, 
we have no doubt they would produce fruit «year after year.” But we doubt 
very much whether you possess either the skill or convenience for rendering 
that system of culture profitable. Why they cannot be grown in pots year after 
year “ like Peach trees ” is this : The leaves of a Vine are some ten times larger 
than those of a Peach tree, the growth is ten times stronger, and requires ten 
times more support. If you can afford space for these growths and dispose them 
for the sun to shine on all the leaves, and at the same time supply the Vines 
with the necessary food for sustaining their vigour, you may adopt the plan 
you indicate and expect fruit every year, more or less ; but we should fear some¬ 
thing would happen to cause it to be less rather than more as the Vines grew 
older. Under skilled culture Vines in pots may bear moderate crops for two or 
three years, but we cannot hold out any hope that you can have them bearing 
“like Peach trees” for an indefinite period. 
Names of Plants (T. P. Stanmore). —1, Davallia divaricata ; 2,Xephrodium 
decompositum var. quinquangulare. We do not undertake to name varieties of 
Begonia Rex, many of them too closely resembling each other for anyone to do 
so except by comparison in a very large collection. ( R. F. TTn/jon).—1, Epacris 
miniata ; 2, Correa cardinalis ; 3, Acacia Riceana; 4, Lantaua, spray withered ; 
5, NicotianaTabacum var.; 6, Tradescantia variegata. (E. ilolyneux ).—Fuchsia 
splendens, a pretty Mexican species. (IP. II. A.). —1, Pilea muscosa, bad 
specimen ; 2, Fuchsia, species not determinable without flowers ; 3, Sedurn 
Sieboldi variegata ; 4, Forsythia viridissima; 5, Euonymus japonicus aureus 
variegatus ; 6, Sempervivum, probably S. montauum, but specin e l insufficient 
for identification. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— MARCH 28th. 
Market quite still. No alteration. 
VEGETABLES. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
dozen 
2 
0 to 4 
0 
Lettuces ... 
Asparagus, English bundle 12 
0 
0 
0 
Mushrooms 
Asparagus,French bundle 25 
0 
30 
0 
Mustard & Cress .. punnet 
Beans,Kidney ... 
iuo 
2 
0 
0 
0 
Onions. 
Beet, Red. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Parsley. 
doz.bunches 
Broccoli. 
bundle 
0 
9 
i 
6 
Parsnips .... 
Brussels Sprouts. 
J sieve 
i 
6 
2 
0 
Peas . 
Cabbage . 
dozen 
0 
6 
1 
0 
Potatoes .... 
Capsicums. 
100 
I 
6 
2 
0 
Kidney.... 
Carrots . 
. bunch 
0 
4 
0 
0 
Radishes.... 
doz. bunches 
Cauliflowers. 
. dozen 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Rhubarb .... 
...... bundle 
Celery. 
bundle 
i 
6 
2 
0 
Salsafy. 
. bundle 
Cole worts_doz. 
bunches 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Scorzonera 
Cucumbers. 
. each 
0 
4 
0 
8 
Endive. 
. dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Shallots .... 
. It. 
Fennel. 
. bunch 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Spinach .... 
. bushel 
Herbs . 
. bunch 
2 
0 
o 
Tomatoes .. 
. lb. 
Leeks. 
. bunch 
0 
8 
0 
4 
Turnips .... 
. bunch 
s. 
1 
1 
o 
2 
3 
1 
0 
6 
6 
1 
0 
1 
1 
1 
0 
3 
1 
0 
FRUIT. 
8. 
d. 
s. d. 
8 
Apples. 
2 
0to7 
0 
Grapes . 
R. 2 
per barrel 
20 
0 
40 
0 
Lemons. 
case 10 
0 
0 
0 
0 
each o 
Cherries. 
4 sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Nectarines. 
dozen 0 
0 
12 
0 
Oranges . 
100 6 
Currants, Black 
. i sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Peaches . 
dozen 0 
„ Red.. 
. i sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Pears,kitchen .. 
dozen 1 
Figs. 
. dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
dessert . 
dozen 1 
Filberts.. 
lb. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Pine Apples, English tb. 1 
Cobs. 
. 100 1b. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Raspberries. 
lb. 0 
Gooseberries ... 
. t sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Strawberries .... 
oz. 0 
d. s. 
Otol 
0 1 
2 0 
3 2 
0 4 
0 2 
0 e 
0 7 
0 8 
0 0 
4 0 
0 0 
8 0 
0 2 
3 0 
0 0 
6 2 
2 0 
d. S. 
0 to 8 
0 20 
0 0 
0 0 
0 10 
0 0 
0 2 
0 2 
6 2 
0 0 
6 0 
d 
6 
6 
3 
6 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
8 
d 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
9 
POULTRY AND PIGEON CHRONICLE. 
ENSILAGE. 
It is said that there is nothing new under the sun, and although 
securing green crops by preservation in the silo is of very ancient 
date, yet the practice has recently been resuscitated, and to all 
appearances will eventually prove not only interesting in its 
details of management to the amateur, but of large practical 
benefit to the home farmer, as owners of estates have usually 
parks or pastures whereon herds of cattle and sheep are main¬ 
tained both in summer and winter either by grazing or preserved 
produce. In taking the first glance at this subject it seems more 
practicable in the hands of those representing the management 
of the estates of noblemen and gentlemen than by the occupying 
tenants of farms possessing only limited means at command, 
especially as many of the silos that are recommended are expensive 
in formation. We hope to be enabled to place the subject before 
them in such a manner that both may be enabled to benefit by 
the system and details of management which we are prepared 
to practically explain. There is one important point to be re¬ 
membered, that it is not upon all farms that the system under 
notice is required. For instance, it will no doubt be less required 
on those farms where no dairy cows are maintained; on the other 
hand, it is especially adapted for many of those fine grazing farms 
in the midland and western counties, many of which possess but 
little or no arable land in connection with the holding, in con¬ 
sequence of which they are unable to procure root crops for 
feeding during the winter and early spring months. In the latter 
case there can be no doubt that ensilage gives a better material 
for a butter dairy than anything which can be obtained without 
purchase. In fact, in many dairies the difficulty of providing, on 
the purely pasture farms, of food best adapted for the production 
of either good milk or butter is so great and so expensive that 
it almost necessitated the damaging system of letting the cows 
go dry for several months in the winter and early spring. This is a 
serious evil, detrimental to the welfare, safety, and condition of 
the cows, and also to profitable management. 
