JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
April 5, 1883. ] 
ground be extensive, when a good portion is done, a turf- 
beater must be used to beat down any inequalities and join the 
root side of the turves with the soil. After this roll it with the 
heaviest roller at command. If the weather be dry water well 
after beating, and when the surface is dried sufficiently roll it 
again. The watering will need to be repeated if the weather 
prove dry, for drought will cause the turves to shrink and 
curl. The best season to turf is in the autumn, in mild 
weather during winter, and in the spring before much growth is 
made, as it +hen has the benefit of the cooler aid moister 
atmosphere. 
So limited being the supply of really goc d turf and such 
good and clean grass seeds are now furnished by the 
principal seedsmen, that it is truly astonishing what fine 
lawns are formed in a few months by sowing the mixtures, 
which are assorted so as to suit every description of soil 
and location. As one having had long and rather extensive 
experience in forming lawns by sowing grass seeds both in 
mixtures and in obtaining the seeds separately, and apportion¬ 
ing the quantities of each as seemed best suited to different 
soils, I consider that good mixtures are not only the cheapest 
but in many cases superior in result to any that can be formed 
by private individuals. 
The greatest evil in sowing grass seed to form a lawn, &c., 
is the insufficiency of the quantity used. Sometimes the quantity 
is as low as 40 lbs., and, omitting Clovers, rarely exceeds 50 lbs. 
per acre. This is not sufficient to form a good sward quickly, 
and although it may ultimately form one, the turf is both 
rough and open for some time, not standing well for cutting 
either with the machine or scythe, and the growth of weeds is 
considerably encouraged. With properly prepared ground, a 
suitable and full quantity of seeds duly sown and cared for, a 
good lawn may be formed by the middle of the first season 
superior in appearance to a lawn formed by laying turf ; but 
it will not, of course, stand the.same amount of wear. In order 
to obtain a quick and certain result there must not be any 
parsimony in seed. The quantity should not be less than 
60 lbs. per acre, and may be apportioned as follows, which, 
though rather expensive at first, has proved thoroughly satis¬ 
factory :—Cynosurus cristatus (Crested Dog’s-tail), 16 lbs. ; 
Festuca duriuscula (Hard Fescue), 8 lbs. ; Festuca tenuifolia 
(Fine-leaved Fescue), 8 lbs. ; Lolium perenne tenue (Fine¬ 
leaved Perennial Rye Grass), 20 lbs. ; Poa nemoralis (Wood 
Meadow Grass), 2 lbs. ; Poa nemoralis sempervirens (Ever¬ 
green Wood Meadow Grass), 4 lbs. ; Poa trivialis (Rough- 
stalked Meadow Grass), 2 lbs. 
If the lawn is to be used for tennis, &c., add 4 lbs. of 
Cynosurus cristatus and 4 lbs. Festuca duriuscula, reducing the 
Lolium perenne to 12 lbs. and the Clover to 4 lbs. ; White 
Clover (Trifolium repens) and 2 lbs. Suckling Clover (Trifolium 
minus) will be ample. For an ordinary lawn 8 lbs. Trifolium 
repens and 2 lbs. Suckling Clover will be necessary. Where 
the ground is shaded by trees substitute Poa nemoralis and its 
variety for similar quantities of the two Festucas, not, how¬ 
ever, excluding them, but reducing their quantities according to 
the extent of the shade. On light soils Avena flavescens may 
be added to the extent of 2 lbs., Festuca rubra 4 lbs., and Lotus 
corniculatus minor (Birdsfoot Trefoil) to the extent of 1 lb. in 
lieu of 3 lbs. White Clover, the Perennial Rye Grass being 
reduced to the extent of the additions of Avena flavescens and 
Festuca rubra. Festuca ovina (Sheep’s Fescue) should be used 
on high ground. On heavy wet soils add 8 lbs. Agrostis 
stolonifera, and take 4 lbs. of White Clover only instead of 8 lbs. 
The best time to sow grass seeds is during calm weather 
about the middle of April, and when the ground is dry, with 
an early prospect of rain. It is indispensable that the seeds 
be distributed as evenly as possible, and be very lightly raked in. 
If this be not done birds will reduce the number of the seeds 
before they have time to germinate. Roll well after sowing, 
and when the grass is well up dress with soot, half a peck per 
rod being sufficient. If soot cannot be had guano may be 
used at the rate of 4 cwt. per acre, or 3 lbs. per rod. Do not 
cut the grass very closely at first, but switch it over with the 
scythe a few times before using the machine, and roll well, but 
not when very*wet or dry. After midsummer the grasses will 
have made good progress, and may be regularly machined. 
273 
RENOVATING LAWNS. 
The dark green colour of the grass in pleasure grounds is 
sometimes absent in winter, having a brown sere appearance, 
and is long coming in spring, which arises from the grass on 
lawns becoming weak and thin from the frequent cutting. 
Poverty of grass is a consequence of the poverty of the soil. 
Various plans to destroy moss are in vogue, but none can be 
effectual until the land is thoroughly underdrained, as by carry¬ 
ing off all surplus and particularly stagnant water the atmo¬ 
sphere and heat are enabled to penetrate the soil. This is 
one of the most efficient modes of destroying moss and all 
moisture-loving plants. As those decrease another class of 
plants are invigorated, and supplant them. But something more 
than drainage is often needed. If the surface be much infested 
with moss remove as much as practicable with an iron rake. 
Clear it off and dress with quicklime at the rate of half a 
bushel per rod ; afterwards apply a dressing of well-decayed 
manure, or preferably reduced vegetable refuse, freed of 
sticks and stones by sifting, three bushels of which per rod is 
not too much. Rake in well, and the rains will soon wash it 
out of sight, or the grass will grow so as to hide it. If the 
grass be scanty sow 12 lbs. Cynosurus cristatus, 4 lbs. Festuca 
duriuscula, 4 lbs. Festuca tenuifolia, 2 lbs. Poa sempervirens, 
4 lbs. White Clover, and 2 lbs. Suckling Clover, raking in 
lightly, and rolling well down. The quantity is for an acre on 
a very bare lawn ; a lessened quantity can be taken according 
to the condition of the grass. Do not cut the grass very closely 
until midsummer is past. 
If the grass be plentiful yet poor it will only be necessary 
to give a good dressing of compost. The accumulated refuse 
of gardens mixed with a sixth of lime and turned over a few 
times will when sifted form a capital dressing, and may be 
placed on so as to entirely cover the surface about a quarter of 
an inch deep, or about 40 cartloads per acre. This allowed to 
be washed in by rains will soon make a decided improvement in 
the lawn, and should not be rolled until the grass has made 
good growth. This will be a more permanent improvement 
than any artificial manure, from its adding to the staple of the 
soil, yet the appearance of soil or compost may deter its em¬ 
ployment. In that case a very decided improvement may be 
made in lawns, whether they be mossy or bare and poor in 
growth of grass, by a dressing of artificial manure, of which 
there are now so many, and all, so far as I have tried, good, 
that no particular mention need be made of any ; but for 
lawns equal proportions of soot, wood ashes, and lime all in a 
dry state and thoroughly incorporated, and applied in spring 
at the rate of half a peck per rod (or where the moss is strong 
and the grass thin and weak doubling the quantity) will be 
advantageous; and if we add as much native guano (dry earth- 
closet manure) as there is soot, wood ashes, and lime, we have 
when thoroughly incorporated, as it may be when dried, a highly 
fertilising and durable manure. It is readily used, and, if kept 
dry, is as portable as guano. It is good for grass, capital for 
flowers, unequalled for fruit trees from the Vine down to 
a Gooseberry bush, and suits vegetable crops well. In the 
case of lawns that have become much infested with weeds and 
coarse grasses, it will be advisable to break up and dig or 
trench as deeply as the good soil allows. The burying of ihe 
surface will mostly be sufficient to destroy all weeds, excepting 
some of the deeper tap-rooted kinds, and these should be care¬ 
fully removed. A good dressing of manure should then be 
given and pointed in, the ground well trodden and sown with 
grass seeds as before advised. This will be a more certain and 
in the end cheaper mode of proceeding than seeking to eradi¬ 
cate the weeds by hand, as an entirely different appearance 
will be given by sowing a proper mixture of lawn grasses.— 
G. Abbey. 
EupAtorium Weinmannianum is a most useful plant for 
winter. If cuttings are taken now and potted singly when rooted 
into 60-size pots in equal parts of loam and leaf soil, and shifted 
on into 48-size pots. Pinch back the shoots to make them bushy, 
and when danger of frost is over plant them out on a sunny 
border in good rich soil. About the commencement of September 
take them up and pot them, and keep rather close and hady for 
a few days, when plants 2 or 3 feet in diameter will be the result 
