April 5, 1S83 ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
285 
If by any mischance Raspberry canes were planted unpruned in 
the autuniD, at once shorten them to 18 inches. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs .—The Fig is a gToss feeder, and making roots very rapidly, 
yet caution is necessary in the application of stimulants in dull 
sunless weather, even to plants in pots. In houses which are close 
and low, therefore unfavourable to the drying of the foliage, 
syringing should be practised between 1 and 2 P.M., and if done 
thoroughly red spider will not increase much. All watering in 
dull weather should be done early in the day. Attend well to 
thinning and stopping side shoots, as these, in the production of 
the second crop of fruit, will repay the attention given in the 
formation of spurs. Train all leading or terminal shoots forward 
where there is space to fill, and ventilate carefully on all favour¬ 
able occasions, avoiding too high a night temperature, which may 
be kept at 60°, a few degrees higher in mild weather, and a few 
degrees less on cold nights, with a rise of 5° to 10° from fire heat 
by day and 15° to 20° from sun heat, giving air at 75° and closing 
at 80°. Trees growing in inside borders in succession houses 
should be encouraged to make surface roots by mulchings of half- 
decomposed manure, supplying water copiously, and keep the 
mulching constantly moist. Syringe twice on fine days, stopping 
and training as the growth proceeds, following the semi-extension 
system if space admits and fine fruit be a primary consideration. 
Stop young plants intended for culture in pots when about a foot 
in height. 
Cherry House .—Attention will now be required in tying-in 
those shoots where it is considered advisable to reserve them for 
supplying any deficiency. Syringe the trees freely twice a day in 
fine weather, but once only in dull weather, and then early. The 
syringing should be done regularly until the stoning is completed, 
but immediately this is effected the fruit should be kept dry to 
prevent its cracking ; and to prevent too dry a condition of the 
atmosphere available surfaces about the house should be sprinkled 
occasionally—no fear of injury resulting from dampness if the 
house be properly ventilated above 55°. See that there are no 
insect pests on the trees, as it is of the greatest importance to 
insure a crop of the finest description that the trees be perfectly 
clean before the fruit commences ripening. Aphides are best 
destroyed by fumigation, which must, however, be done moderately 
on the evening of a calm day, being careful to have the foliage 
dry. When the fruit commences the last swelling the border 
should be well supplied with water or liquid manure as necessary, 
trees in pots requiring special attention in this respect. The 
temperature at present may range from 40° to 45° at night, the 
heat being turned on early so as to have the temperature 50° by 
8 A.M., admitting a little air at the top of the house at 55°, 
increasing it to G0°, and this is reduced by degrees, taking it off 
at 55°. In sunny weather abundance of ventilation should be 
given both at the top and front of the house, the temperature not 
being reduced below 70°. 
Vines .—Late houses started early in February will now be 
making rapid progress and will need the final disbudding, stop¬ 
ping, and tying before the young shoots reach the glass. Where 
space admits stop them two or three joints beyond the fruit, and 
allow the first laterals to fill all vacancies. The shoots, however, 
should be trained sufficiently wide apart to admit of the full and 
even development of the foliage, and its due exposure to light and 
air. Give inside borders a thorough soaking with tepid water or 
liquid manure, and secure as much sun heat as possible by early 
closing. Muscats in flower should have a rather high and dry 
atmosphere to insure a good set, but a too dry condition of the 
atmosphere should be guarded against by damping available sur¬ 
faces occasionally in bright weather. Carefully fertilise the 
blooms with a camel’s-hair brush at a high temperature after the 
bunches come into flower, and reduce the strain on the Vines by 
the removal of the surplus bunches. Grapes in the early House 
now in their last swelling should have a final examination, and if 
any of the bunches are likely to bind take out a few of the least 
promising berries. When the Grapes begin to colour gradually 
reduce the moisture, giving air liberally by day and night, but 
close for a couple of hours in the afternoon, with sun heat to 
secure the proper swelling-off of the berries, afterwards admit air 
for the night, a circulation of rather dry warm air being essential 
to high flavour and good finish. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
Choice Annuals .—Seeds of these sown at once will give a number 
of plants, which, if properly treated, will surpass those sown much 
earlier, these being almost certain to experience an injurious check 
before they can be finally planted out. The most important are 
Asters and Stocks of sorts, Phlox Drummondi, Dianthuses, single 
and double Zinnias in variety, French and African Marigolds, 
choice Eschscholtzias, Godetias and Clarkias, annual Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, Portulacas, Tropseolums, Sunflowers, Tagetes, Helichry- 
sums with other Everlastings, and ornamental Grasses. A mild 
hotbed is most favourable for the germination of the seed, which 
may be either sown on finely sandy soil disposed to a depth of 
4 inches over the surface of the bed, or in boxes, pans, or pots of 
similar soil. In every case the soil should be made firm and well 
moistened prior to sowing, and the seed must be scattered thinly, 
pressed into the soil with the back of a spade or other smooth 
hard substance, and be only just covered with more of the fine 
sandy soil. If darkened with mats, paper, or other material to 
hasten germination this should be removed directly the seedlings 
are visible, and a light shading substituted during clear days. 
Give air moderately at first, afterwards more freely, and prick 
out the seedlings into sifted soil on other beds, or in boxes or pans, 
before they are much drawn. Plants thus obtained can be readily 
transplanted, and soon become established in their flowering 
quarters. Golden Pyrethrum and Perilla nankinensis may yet 
be sown either in pans or boxes, or broadcast in a frame on a 
slight hotbed. In the former case it is generally necessary to 
prick out the seedlings into boxes or frames, the Pyrethrum about 
3 inches apart each way, a less distance sufficing if sown late, or 
if required for carpet beds. 
Ricinuses and Japanese Maize may now be sown, the former 
singly in 4-inch pots, and the latter singly in pots a size smaller, 
this being preferable to sowing thickly. Both kinds germinate 
quickly in a moist heat, and the former especially should in the 
early stage of growth be kept near the glass, otherwise they 
become drawn and weakly. Both are effective yet cheap orna- 
mental-foliaged bedding plants, and suitable either for groups, 
back rows, or for dotting among dwarfer-growing bedding plants. 
Mignonette and Sweet Peas are generally in great demand for 
cutting purposes, and if a small quantity of seed be sown thinly 
in 3-inch pots, placed on a shelf in a cool or moderately warm 
house, or in a frame till germinated, the seedlings being thinned 
out in the case of the Mignonette to about three in a pot, hard¬ 
ened off, and eventually planted in a warm mixed border before 
becoming much root-bound, a considerable gain will be effected. 
Both kinds should also be sown in the open ground, but most 
other annuals may well be kept out of the ground till it becomes 
warmer. 
Pricking-out Seedlings. — Lobelias, Ageratums, Antirrhinums, 
Pentstemons, Cineraria maritima, and Petunias when large 
enough to handle should be pricked out in pans, boxes, or beds 
of good fine soil, allowing space in each instance to admit of their 
being finally transplanted with a small ball of soil about the roots. 
Dibble them in up to their seed leaves, taking care to properly 
fix the soil about the roots with the point of the dibble, give tepid 
water through a fine-rose pot, shade from bright sunshine, and 
keep them close until re-established. Seedlings of Cbammpeuce, 
Centaureas, Dahlias, Eucalyptus, Grevillea robusta, Solanums, 
Acacia lophantha, Polymnia grandis, Ferdinandiaeminens, Cannas, 
and other subtropical plants may be potted off singly into 3-inch 
pots. Wigandia and Nicotianas should be pricked off into pans 
or boxes, and potted later on. All should be kept growing, and 
many, according to their vigour, will require a liberal shift, or 
they soon become stunted. 
Various .—Old roots of Dahlias placed in heat will have pushed 
up several growths, and these when about 3 inches long may be 
taken off with a heel and easily struck in a not over-moist heat ; 
or cuttings can be made without heels, providing the growth is 
not hollow. The old stools can later on be divided, each division 
having a shoot and a tuber attached, and be potted off singly into 
6-inch or 8-inch pots. With Dahlias one strong growth is prefer¬ 
able to two or more weakly ones, and by putting out well-rooted 
plants an early start is made. The tuberous-rooted Salvia patens 
may be treated very similarly, the tops and side shoots striking 
readily in heat, and soon form strong plants. Take out the points 
of autumn-struck shrubby Calceolarias and Gazania splendens, 
and should the stock be too small these tops can be struck in heat. 
Coleuses, Ageratums, Lobelias. Heliotropes, Koniga, Verbenas, 
Iresines, Alternantheras, and Pelargoniums now strike quickly, 
and the tops of each newly struck plant should be taken off when 
large enough to form cuttings. Potting or boxing-off is generally 
performed when topped plants are breaking, as at this stage the 
least check to the growth is given. Old stools of Cannas started 
in heat may be split up, every crown if potted and kept in a little 
heat soon growing to a good size. 
With a view to preparing Zonal Pelargoniums for the beds in 
the flower garden advantage should now be taken of the mild 
weather to transfer them to the cold frames, so that the plants 
may be gradually hardened off and not receive a check when the 
bedding time arrives. 
