April 12, 1833. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
305 
eburneum, Saccolabium guttatum Harrisonianum, healthy plants 
of Miltonia Candida, grandiflora, Paphinia cristata, Aerides 
Fieldingi, Saccolabium grammatophyllum and S. Ellisii, Phalae- 
nopsis Schilleriana, Odontoglossum Roezli, &c. These are only 
a few of the many fine Orchids grown here, and the collection is 
fast extending. One other point worthy of notice is the abun¬ 
dance of roots the plants have, which testify to Mr. Gilks’ ability 
as an Orchid grower.—A. Young. 
FENCING AGAINST RABBITS. 
I shall be glad to know what rabbits will not eat in the way 
of shrubs. I have a wood, aDd a garden of an acre and a half 
adjoining it. I have wired the latter in, but the rabbits still 
find their way in. I do not want to exterminate them altogether, 
but I should like to grow a few shrubs. My Roses are all done 
for ; Larch and Spanish Chestnut, nine-tenths are destroyed. 
Hazel when first planted has a bad time of it, and even Laurels 
and Rhododendrons are terribly bitten. When is the proper time 
to insert cuttings of Laurels and other shrubs—spring or autumn ? 
If any of your readers can help me in my trouble I shall be very 
grateful.—G. C. E. 
[We do not think you can possibly render your garden satis¬ 
factory if rabbits have access to it, and at present they must 
either be very numerous or very hungry to eat Rhododendrons. 
They can be excluded by wire netting if it be fixed properly. 
The best method that has come under our notice is adopted with 
great success in the woods of a large estate where rabbits abound. 
When simply sunk in the earth vertically, no matter to what 
depth, the animals burrowed under it ; but when the lower edge 
of the netting was bent at right angles (fig. 73), the flange facing 
Fig. 73. —A Rabbit-proof Fence. 
the point of attack, and covered an inch or two deep with soil, 
the netting was rendered rabbit-proof. These animals almost 
invariably commence scratching close to the netting, continuing 
perseveringlv until they can pass under the fence; and as they do 
not appear to possess the sagacity for commencing their attacks 
G inches from it, the present method of fixing the netting forms 
practically a complete barrier, as not one rabbit in a thousand 
finds its way under the fence. If you adopt this mode of fixing 
your netting you may have flowers, shrubs, and rabbits, as if an 
animal by chance gets inside it may be easily caught. We have 
notes in hand on rabbit-proof trees and shrubs, which we shall if 
possible publish next week. Early autumn is the right time for 
inserting cuttings of evergreen shrubs.] 
WORK.FOhTHEWEEK..' 
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\By the most skilful Cultivators in the several Departments .] 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The weather is now most favourable for operations in this 
department, and seed-sowing should be the order of the day. 
Broccoli seed should be sown for main crops ; the quantity must 
depend on the demand. In some cases a very small patch or a 
single short row of each variety may be sufficient, while in others 
a good bed of each may be required. Sowing a large quantity of 
one kind will never keep up a long supply, but small quantities 
of successional sorts will do this and give the greatest satisfac¬ 
tion. As these are given in every seed list we need not name 
them here. In all cases the seed should be sown on rich soil, and 
thinly, as the young plants may remain until they are planted in 
their bearing quarters. Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflowers, Savoys, 
and Cabbages should be sown at the same time ; plants from the 
latter will supply fine tender heads late in autumn, and we find 
that delicate well-grown Cabbages are just as much valued very 
late as very early in the season. The main crop of Carrots 
should be sown at once. A heavy retentive soil is not favourable 
to the production of fine roots, but a moderately rich open soil 
will always afford clean produce. A thin coating of soot, salt, or 
lime dug into the soil before sowing will generally keep it free 
from destructive grubs during the season. 
Cauliflowers from seed sown some weeks ago in frames should 
be hardened off as soon as possible, with the view of planting 
them out in the open. We find if planted when quite small they 
succeed much better than if kept in frames until they are 1 foot 
or more in height. If drills are drawn about 3 inches deep and 
plants about 3 inches high are inserted in them it is astonishing 
how fast they grow and how little check they receive. 
Celery seed for main crop may be sown under a handlight or 
in a frame. Damp soil suits the plants at all stages of their 
growth. Early Celery plants which have been grown in heat 
should be gradually hardened for planting out in a few weeks 
time. Leek seed may be sown now for the main crop. These 
are always transplanted and need not be sown in any particular 
place. Seed should be sown at once if not already done, as a long 
season is necessary to thoroughly mature this crop. Parsley is 
indispensable in every garden ; and in case of failure, which is by 
no means uncommon with this useful crop, two or three patches of 
it should be sown in different parts of the garden. Soil which 
produces clean Carrots will always grow fine Parsley. 
Now is the time to sow Asparagus, Rhubarb, and Seakale seed ; 
18 inches from row to row, and 6 inches from plant to plant, are 
proper distances for all of them, inserting two or three seeds at 
those intervals. Crowding seedlings when very small, or in fact 
at any time, is ruinous. A small sowing of early Beet may also 
be made now ; the Turnip-root variety matures earlier than any 
of the long sorts. Turnips are most valuable in the early summer 
months, but if sown too early they are liable to run to seed before 
any useful bulbs have been formed ; but now the seed may be 
sown with certainty of success. The rows should be from 15 to 
18 inches apart, and as Turnip seed always germinates freely, sow 
thin. 
Midseason Peas should still be sown ; and as they will be bear¬ 
ing at a time when the weather is generally hot and the ground 
dry, if sown in shallow trenches now these will be found very 
beneficial to the crops under the conditions just named. In light 
sandy soils good Peas cannot be secured in hot weather unless 
they are grown in trenches, but in heavy soils they should not 
be placed so far below the surface. All Potato planting should 
now be pressed forward. We are now planting our late kinds in 
rows 3 feet apart, and as soon as the autumn and winter Greens 
are ready a row of them will be put between every two of the 
Potato rows. Radish seed and Mustard and Cress should be sown 
frequently in small quantities at the front of a south wall. Harden 
off ridge Cucumber plants, and admit plenty of air to Potatoes 
now maturing in frames. Sow another good batch of Kidney 
Beans to precede the first crop in the open air. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines. —As the stoning process is being passed 
in the early house the night temperature at this critical period 
must be maintained steady at 60°, with a rise of 5° by day by 
artificial means, and a still further advance of 10° to 15° from sun 
heat. Where ripe fruit is wanted at an early date forcing should 
be carried on by an increase of the day temperature, raising the 
temperature early in the morning to 65°, and with a little air 
from-this point allow an advance of 10° to 15° from sun heat, with 
moderate ventilation, and close at 75°, increasing the tempera¬ 
ture to 80° or 85°, afterwards admitting a little air, and allow the 
heat to fall gradually to the night temperature, as the ripening of 
the fruit must not be accelerated by the maintenance of a high 
night temperature. Examine the trees twice a week, and gradu¬ 
ally reduce surplus shoots as well as surplus fruits. The experi¬ 
enced cultivator can not only tell which fruits are likely to stand, 
but, knowing the capabilities of his trees, will be able to determine 
